355bhp

SuhwEET! Congrats and welcome aboard! And there's something I like about your user name too. . . Back in my day, a hunnert years ago, 150 mph really meant something, and now I've been let loose in a car that goes 180+! Heck, that's 250GT Testarossa speed!

Driving on the freeway in the morning or the afternoon, you

might be able to look at the cars shodow. The shadow

will show the diffuser. You will need to experiment

before you finally see the diffuser.

Paul

Observing the shadow is a good idea; getting the car up to 76 mph on an L.A. freeway in the morning or evening's gonna be a little tough, but I'll give it a try. Thanks for the input.

I think I may have manually extended my rear spoiler by mistake, but I don't recall the LED in the button ever being lit. The spoiler remained up after switching off the ignition, but no fault code ever appeared. Following the manual's instructions, I switched on the ignition and pressed and held the control button. The button's little LED lit up as the spoiler retracted, and it went out when it reached its final position. How can I tell if the spoiler has truly returned to its automatic mode, as the manual says it should?

Thnks. Based on the diagram then my intake box is stock. I suspect they are talking about the filter.

If you live close by to Rusnak, ask one of the guys in the parts dept to point out the aftermarket intake. I've got a rattle in my muffler, but I think it's a loose baffle. I only hear it when I blip the throttle at lower RPM's. However, I think it contributes nicely to the nasty roar it makes when I really put my foot down!

Rusnak just called and said it was an aftermarket intake. I bought the car used (about 4k miles) from a dealer and the original owner (my opinion) didn't look like the type of guy that would know how to raise the hood. When I look under the hood I don't see anything that doesn't look stock. Can anybody shed some light on what 'aftermarket intake' means? I will stop by and have them show me later but wanted to get prepared.

Don't know what an aftermarket intake looks like, but here's a topic that has drawings of what a stock one looks like: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8459. I'm sure a search will pull up topics with photos. Good luck.

Personally, I think the 996 is cleaner (visually and aerodynamically) than the 997, and I LOVE my 997. Leave yours the way it is, unless you can make it go faster. Cheers.

355,

Your engine probably likes being driven like that more! Seems like the one's that are babied have more problems.

Do you still have a warranty? You can probably get one (if you don't) for the piece of mind.

Having lost my engine last year :angry: I will never buy another Porsche without a warranty.

I can thank this Forum for my current driving habits!

Got a 3-year extended warranty (for which I believe I grossly overpaid!) when I bought the car last year.

36K when I bought it...drove it a grand total of 320 miles before it stopped

>Gulp!< That's just what my 3.8's got on it right now! Been driving it "like my hair was on fire" (to quote one member's post) and changing oil at 5K mile intervals. Watch this space!

i like your current rims much better than the turbo twist.

+2. Perhaps replacements similar your current wheels are available in black? Those are what I'd like to eventually put on my little green car.

IMS shaft failure...getting a new engine

The new motor will now make yours the perfect car. Congrats.

How many miles on your '05 C2?

I just noticed that your oil pressure gauge is at 4 bar. Mine pegs at 5 around 4000 rpm. Does the pressure start dropping after a steady run at 6000+? 'Course if you were a little too busy to notice, I fully understand! Cheers, you lucky dog!

Boy, it seems the '05's have had their share of little problems! Mine had everything from a CEL warning to a floppy rear-view mirror, but fortunately the local dealer took care of all that stuff, while it was still under what was left of the warranty.

Just be patient and get all the little gremlins fixed. And don't be afraid to drive it HARD (and change the oil and filter around every 7500 miles); it's a terrific car! Oh, and I like those wheels!

Cheers,

Thanks! What ever would we do without you Loren!

ATE Gold is the factory fill.

I checked online, and Tire Rack shows an all blue, one liter can marked "200". Other sites show the blue Ate 200 can with a big white square and red diagonal stripe. These other sites refer to it as racing fluid. Is there a difference in these Ate products with the slightly different labels, and are both approved by Porsche?

If that's the usual interval between washings, I'd spring for a hand wash; they usually run about $25 down here in L.A.

Welcome to the Forum, and congrats on the new car! Fast, ain't it. Cheers.

The pump with the "Pentosin only" is the power steering.

On non-turbo cars the clutch shares brake fluid from the (front) brake fluid reservoir.

Ah. So THAT's why I couldn't find anything in the maintenance schedules on topping off the clutch fluid.

For MY05 997-1 S (only)

996.110.131.52 air cleaner -- US MSRP $40.64

Thanks! Seeing that it's a 996 part no., would the instructions for removing the 997 3.8 air cleaner housing posted in the Mar 15, 2009 DIY 3.8 Air Cleaner change forum still apply? Mine looks exactly the same as the posting's illustrations http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8459.

To digress a bit, I noticed a "black box" with a filler cap just above the inlet duct, which can also be seen in the instruction's illustration. The cap is inscribed "Only hydraulic oil Pentosin CHF 11 S". Is this the filler for the clutch fluid, and is the nipple on top of the box the bleeder valve?

Do you have the part number for the engine air cleaner element for an '05 3.8 997S? Thanks.

The small little door is not strong enough to hold

your moon shine in. It would fly out and spill all over your

trunk at the first stop sign.

Paul

If it doesn't make it go faster, I wouldn't put anything in there! Cheers.

Folks,

I am getting back into 911's (yeah baby). And about to purchase a 05 997 C2S coupe. Fully loaded, Navi, Bose, Sport Chorno, 6 Speed. with 21K miles on it and solid mint condition. Local car. Upon inspection by a local Porsche dealer they found the RMS leak, which is being fixed under the extended warranty that the seller has. 3/36....till end of 2011 or 56K miles.

paying 44.5K for it.

From my research it sounds like a good deal and we have a deal. Wanted to put it out there to reaffirm. Also anything else I should be looking out for? I have read about the IMS issue, but my understanding is, it is rare and since I do have the extended warranty, if the engine blows, it will be covered by it.

Anything else to look for?

Thanks.

Bought mine with 23K miles and was talked into an extended warranty. Worried myself sick over the IMS issue, so I was glad I was roped into the e/w. Since reading that IMS troubles among tracked cars were even more rare, I've been driving mine "like my hair was on fire" (to quote one poster), tracked it once (and wanna track it again), got a speeding ticket from a surprisingly sympathetic CHP officer ("I HEARD you first, and why did you do it right in front of me?!"), and MPG be damned, been using 5-6 Grand as my normal shift points. Gonna change oil and filter between 5K and 10K miles at most and so far, it continues to run superbly at 34K miles without leaving any engine parts on the freeway. Congrats and enjoy. Cheers!

My service reminder is in days. When I reset it using a Durametric, is there an option to set the reminder for miles instead?

You will need the Durametric software, a PST2 or a PIWIS tester to reset the service mileage.

Sorry for dredging up an ancient topic, but according to the Durametric website, the gadget looks almost too good to be true for resetting service reminders. Will the software run on any decent Windows laptop? The $287 price tag seems a reasonable investment.

Currently, the OBC in my car just began reading "Service in 30 days", and the car has 34116 miles on the odo. As far as I know, the car was last serviced at an OPC at around 26K miles. I've since had my indy change the oil and filter at around 30K, and will do another change at at 35-38K. I don't think he has a Durametric, and I know he doesn't have a PIWIS, but I'd trust him with a service checklist, because he's quite familiar with Mercedes diagnostics and their OBC's.

If I bought a Durametric, I'd let him borrow it of course, because he's quite digitally savvy.

I spent most of my time in the 996 forum. I am considering upgrading from a 2001 C2 to a 2005 C2S. The car that I am looking at is Porsche Certified and has about 25,000 miles on it. If I buy it, I have two years left on the warranty. My concern is that according to the dealer it has a "new" engine with "less than 500 miles" on it. The 996's are notorious for RMS problems, but so far (100k miles) I have avoided engine problems in my 996 so I take what I read with a grain of salt. I searched this forum for engine problems and they don't seem too bad. What do you folks think? Are replacement engines as likely to fail as an original engine? Will my replacement last 100,000 miles? Would you hold off on buying a 2005 because of engine problems?

If the motor was replaced after 2006, and if it was new at the time or a factory replacement, the reliability issues with the IMS bearing had by that time been addressed by Porsche AG, and you should have the perfect car. If you got 100K miles out of your 996, drive and maintain the 997 the same way, and it should last just as long. Cheers and good luck!

80,000 miles on my 1999. When talking about the reliability of these cars - keep in mind your driving style. If you essentially autocross you car everyday driving to work with your hair on fire, 100,000 miles before the engine dies is an incredible run. Given the way I drive, my 996 is holding up like a tank.

Because you drive every day with your hair on fire IS likely the reason why your car is holding up like a tank! Cheers.