355bhp

I purchased a replacement at WalMart. It is the exact same size, and fits in the car perfectly.

Around $20.

Found one at Target for $15. It's by Bell, the skid-lid folks, and it fits in the little compartment like it was made for it! Cheers.

997.652.051.00 Tire compressor -- US MSRP $302.78

I am sure the good folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche parts at Dealer Cost) can give you a much better price...

The L.A. dismantler has one for around $130 in what looks like an unused condition, but the p/n on a photo of the unit the unit reads: 997.652.053.01. A series of photos shows a pump in a trapezoidal shaped case with compartments for the air line plus gauge and the connector to the cigar lighter socket. The outside of the housing has several pictographs illustrating the operating instructions. What's the significance of the slight difference in part numbers? The dismantler says that the unit is from a very low mileage 997, but no MY is given. Thanks.

That is an older part number. There are 3 or 4 different compressors.

Some of the compressors are shaped differently to fit in the 4WD cars.

The dismantler's price suddenly shot up to one that's more than what I'd pay for a brand new one from Sunset! I might check SPIRO's Wal-Mart suggestion as well.

997.652.051.00 Tire compressor -- US MSRP $302.78

I am sure the good folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche parts at Dealer Cost) can give you a much better price...

997.652.051.00 Tire compressor -- US MSRP $302.78

I am sure the good folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche parts at Dealer Cost) can give you a much better price...

Woah! That's darn near the price of a new front tire, but it's not unexpected. I'll get a quote from Sunset, and there's also a Porsche specialty salvage yard here in north L.A., that I'll try. Many thanks.

I just discovered that the compressor pump in the tool kit is missing. What is its part number for an '05 997 C2S? Thanks.

Does anyone have any tips for finding a comfortable seating position with manual sport seats?

I bought a 2008 C2 coupe with manual sport seats in August of last year and have not yet been able to find a comfortable seat position. I'm not a big guy (6' 190 lbs), but every time I drive the car for an extended period, I end up with a terrible neck ache. The problem is the headrest and the shoulder bolsters. I've started by adjusting the seat bottom so that I can comfortably operate the clutch. When I adjust the seat back so that I can reach the wheel, the shape of the seat and the fixed head rest wont let me sit with my neck straight. This is my first porsche, so maybe I'm just not used to the proper seating position.

Any help would be appreciated. :)

I'd keep working at it. It took me a while to adjust mine so I could get my fat legs under the wheel! (I dropped the seat down a notch or two) Bear in mind too, that your arms should be bent more than slightly at the elbow and not straight out. You might also try shifting your hand position on the wheel. I use the "Italian style" with hands at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, and it's very comfortable. You can also make broad hand gestures more easily when conversing with your passenger....

Cheers,

Every time when I start the engine, the CPU will go into warm up mode depends on the surrounding temp. Then I will hear a click, the engine will runs at lower RPM, at that moment I will start to move the car without rev. over 3700RPM. I will watched the oil temp. till it goes to 200-220 F before I will play rough. 175 F of coolant will be achieved half the time before the oil goes to 210 F. Basically, the car is full warmed up when oil goes to 210F. Most of the time, I will open the engine lid when I parked the car into my garage. I think that will reduced the hot temp. chance to harden the rubber plumbing. That will give longer life to the lines and the seals. That is common sense in physics.

I think the last seven (I think) replies to this thread are TERRIFIC! These are SPORTS cars and should be driven that way! Cheers.

I am looking at a private seller 2005 C2S that is fully loaded (full leather, nav,chrono) with about 14k miles on it.

The seller said he was offered 42k and he was not interested.

1- What would be a fair price for this car?

2-The warranty just expired. I read about problems with 2005 997. Can I get this car certified from Porsche\get the warranty extended? Ballpark on how much that cost?

Thank you

Check the maintenance history to see if the oil and filter had been changed at least once, and run a check to see if it's been over-revved. Ask how it had been driven, and ask the owner to please be frank. If it's been "babied" with low revs and multiple short trips, I'd be cautious. I paid $50K cash for mine last November from a VW dealer (it was claimed to be owned by a manager) +$3K for an extended warranty, and it had about 28K miles on the odo.

Just last week, Porsche AH was looking to buy VW AG. Today I read that the deal was off the table, and that Porsche might be looking to SELL to VW! Go figure. Who knows; bargain prices and rebates might be next. Keep scouting those dealers. Cheers.

Don't know much about '02's, but if it's got the M96, then your worries might have some foundation. I've got the notorious M96 in mine, but it has yet to detonate, and Ive got 32K+miles on it--the last 4K being quite hard. The turbo, IMHO, would be the wiser choice, if you're not too sure where the '02 C4S has been. Cheers.

It's been 90+ here in L.A's San Fernando Valley lately, and it was 103 at Willow. It probably wasn't necessary, but I did what the guys in the Lotus and other Porsche did, and opened the engine cover lid during the cool-off sessions.

I always recommend following the advice in the owners manual.

+1 for this. The manual says there's no need for a warmup idle. I start driving immediately and just keep it under 4k RPM until my water temp is nominal. I don't let the car sit on idle after driving, but my last two miles or so are always gentle so I don't put it away too hot.

M.

I know I have read the manual but you know how the common myth that everyone says is that you should always warm up the engine before driving off... Never could get enough confidence to just fire her up and drive off :) .... But from now on I will just turn the engine on and drive off and for the first 5 minutes I will make sure to keep RPM's under 4,200....

I usually wait for my oil temp to rise a few points before going beyond 4000 rpm, and the engine compartment fan will operate automatically and periodically after shutting down till everything's properly cooled down.

I read this post this morning and it made me drive my car to work, on sports mode all the way! :drive:

I am thinking of trying my car on the track sometime but is there anything I should worry about? (e.g. tires, brakes, oil, maintenance)

I hit the track occasionally but I never track my own car (don't have the heart to :) )..... This summer I'm going to Leipzig to attend the Porsche Racing School... Hitting the track is the most fun ever!!! and surprisingly it makes you drive your car on public roads much slower because you get all the racing out of your system on the track and start to understand that public roads aren't made for racing, the track is!!!! Would definitely advise going to the track but don't know what you should look out for if you track your own car...

Just check your oil level (I wouldn't have anything over 5K miles on the existing oil and filter), and make sure you have at least 50% brake pad thickness. Do a search; Loren posted a nice list of minimums for C2's and C2S's. I think rotor minimums are in there as well. Also, have more than the minimum tire tread depth, and inflate them about 5 psi over the recommended pressures. If you want to explore the handling limits, turn off the PSM.

Cheers

Just got back from a track session on the Streets of Willow (at Willow Springs Int'l Raceway); I didn't crash, and tho I redlined it numerous times, and hit the rev limiter twice, the motor didn't explode. The car stood up well against the school's race-prepped Toyota Celica GT's, and I whomped a guy in his Lotus Espirit S4. The infamous M96 held up well.

Cheers, and I'm absolutely exHAUSTED!

Hello all!

I have lurked on this forum for some time while choosing my new car. A couple of months ago I found just what I was looking for and got a great deal on a new 08 C4S. :D

Sweet!

Dang! Do we drive good lookin' cars, or what!? Thanks for the pics, and welcome to the forum!

I get the point! :) I have to say after having the engine failing last year, I am definitely very gentle with it but still enjoying it.

Do you have any specific advice when driving it? (e.g. I read in other posts that over reving especially in gear one is not recommended and down shifting on high speed is also something to avoid)

I love driving it on sports mode but I'm not sure how much is too much? Is there any harm in over using the sports mode?

Thanks

There's a rev limiter that prevents over-revving on up-shifting through the gears, but one has to be really careful in down-shifting or mistakenly selecting 3rd when aiming for 5th after pegging the tach in 4th, which I've done, but fortunately caught my mistake in time. A good (well, fun at least) way to determine the rev limits when down-shifting, is to note the rpm drop when up-shifting from a particular gear. Can't tell you anything about the Sport Mode usage, but probably the only thing that suffers is your fuel economy!

Cheers

wow... I guess I have the sport exhaust... the pipes are of different size!!!! :-)

Just be careful. The Highway Patrol officer who issued me my first speeding ticket in the Little Green Monster said, that he HEARD me first! And I don't even have the Sport exhaust!

Get an extended warranty, so you'll sleep better. Also, increase your oil/filter change frequencies to 5-10K miles, avoid frequent short trips, and don't be afraid to drive it vigorously in the higher rev ranges. If it's gonna blow, it's gonna blow, but the motors are happier and seem to be more reliable when driven hard. It's more fun too.

Cheers.

I have heard this many time. Is it really better for the car if you drive it hard? can you guys please explain more?? Since I had the intermediate shaft problem and got the engine replaced on my MY05 C2S I've been very careful how I drive it and always trys to drive on low RPM. I push it rarely and only drive it on weekends

please advice.

Thanks

H

your advice is really appreciated

Sure: moderate RPM's during the break-in period, but with the new motor and its revisions that addressed the IMS problems, you can then drive it even HARDER! I'm guessing that higher revs at longer periods means reduced sludge and better lubrication all around. Besides, these are honest-to-goodness SPORTS CARS! Don't be afraid to DRIVE it!

I'm gonna track mine this Sunday at a high performance driving class. You'll be the first to know if I had to walk home!

Cheers!

:o Oh, man, geez guys, what are you doing to me!! I saw all the warnings elsewhere about 996 engines, which scared me into the direction of a 997. I bought a 2005 coupe last year that went out of warranty last month.

Now I need an extended warranty on it!?!?

I bought a '04 Cayenne V6 new, and all I read is "stay away from 2004 Cayennes" — I've had nearly zero problems (knock wood) with mine. Does that mean I'm universally lucky or a sign that the odds will catch up to me with the 997?? :eek: ****!

Get an extended warranty, so you'll sleep better. Also, increase your oil/filter change frequencies to 5-10K miles, avoid frequent short trips, and don't be afraid to drive it vigorously in the higher rev ranges. If it's gonna blow, it's gonna blow, but the motors are happier and seem to be more reliable when driven hard. It's more fun too.

Cheers.

The car is really designed for 93 octane, even with Cali. 91 the car is losing 8-10rwhp.

Dave

I recently filled up with about 4:1 ratio of 100 RON racing gas to 91 RON, which works out to about 93 RON. I like to think there was an improvement in performance, but if there was, it was slight and not really worth the extra thirty bucks! I confess though, it was fun testing the difference!

Cheers!

Bella machina! And don't be afraid to drive it HARD! They last longer that way. Cheers!

Oh, I'm never afraid of driving hard... ;)

Thanks for the comments so far!

By the way, I've got just north of 32,000 miles on mine and so far, I've left no engine parts on the freeway. I will however, be changing the oil and filter at 5000 mi intervals max per various posts in Renntech's forums.

Couldja tell us a little about that terrific photo of the Carrera Panamericana 550's?

Bella machina! And don't be afraid to drive it HARD! They last longer that way. Cheers!

This is perfectly normal in my experience. It happens in my '86 Carrera and also in my '07 C2S. It's the synchro design, I've been told.

1st gear is nearly impossible to engage unless you are going about 5 mph or less, and it sometimes doesn't go into gear when you're stopped for a short while. The way to avoid this is to ease it into 1st just before you roll to a stop.

When you do have trouble getting into first after being stationary for a while, first move it into the 2nd gear position and then it will go right into 1st with no problem.

You don't even have to fully engage 2nd; just enter the gate and push it into 1st. Gears 2-5 have up- and downshift synchros, but 1st has only a downshift synchro, and engaging it from neutral is like an upshift. But I agree with Loren; put the onus on the dealer if the problem persists, and if it's still under warranty.

Suspension thunks are forgiven, as is road noise, the rough ride from low profile tires on a tight suspension, and everything else that comes with the package. Sharply pitched annoying rattles coincident with road joint jolts when I'm simply cruising are not. My last 911 was a '71 911T --- I know all about noises. ;) And I frankly sometimes miss its more rustic nature, as well as my own when in my 30's and 40's. There were some broken parts in the sunroof mechanism that Porsche is replacing next week.

Hmm. The panel lining the sunroof DOES rattle on my car, l but it's been outta warranty for a coupla months now, so unless I can get somebody to fix it for cheap, I'll live with it.