farmer boy

I wrapped some "self amalgamating" tape around the lugs and it worked a treat!  Totaly silent! 

I used Beru plugs - you can get cheaper coil packs which I used and they are fine.  It is a bit of a challenge to change the rearmost plugs so I would change the coil packs whilst you are "in there".... 

....oh and I beleive anti seize is not recommended.

I had a similar problem - (misfire cyl 6) which casued a rough idle.  The garage decided it was a variocam actuator problem but I decided to change the plugs and coil packs  first and that  solved the problem. 

JUst to confirm that the advise from JFP was bang on and a new IAC valve has resolved all issues.  Runs lovely now - Thankyou.

Ahhhh  that seems a much a more sensible idea.  I did think about removing the exhausts but the various nuts and bolts looked very corroded so I decided to leave them alone...  probably the wrong decision but still amazed at the difference it has made to the car.  I would not be surprised if I was running on the original plugs and coils!  Anyway it is now running better than it ever has and a new Idle air control valve has solved the tickover problem.  :)

Hi all, just a bit of a whinge regarding garages.......  I have had a lumpy tickover for a while and when the engine is cold it will not tickover - fine after a couple of blips of the throttle.  Took it into my local Porsche specialist and after connecting the computer and lifting it up on the ramp I was reliably informed that the variocam on the drivers side is stuck hence the lumpy tickover...  I was a bit short of cash that month so elected to leave it for a bit. 

After a bit of research on here I decided to replace all of the spark plugs and coils - this made a huge difference but it was still a bit lumpy and would still not idle when cold.  I ordered a new idle air control valve (£60 ebay) - took a few minutes to fit and everything is now perfect.....  glad I did not part with my £800!

ps checked the codes and all that showed was IAC valve - which is now cleared.  Just wondering how they came to their original diagnosis?

pps - the instructions for the new IACV stated that I should turn the ignition on without starting for 10 secs and repeat 3 times - what is that all about?

I had EXACTLY the same issues and after a lot of messing about a new starter motor solved the problem.  I know how embarrasing it is to push start a 911! 

.......just to clarify - the starter was working but only turned the engine over slowly - a bit like having a flat battery.....  I fitted new alternator, new battery and checked all of the connections.  Replacing the starter solved the problem - it apparently had a short "inside" and was "working" but very inneficiently.  Tricky devil to change!

Fabulous - I shall go and test them.... many thanks.

Many thanks - I think they were the originals from 1998 so it seemed sensible to just change the lot whilst I was crawling underneath.... I have thrown them away now but thanks for the tip on how to test them.  (I may just get one out of the bin and try it)

Just a thought - I am sure they did not have 15 terminals - or is that a typo?

Many thanks - much appreciated.

The new IACV was only £60 (Bosch) so I think it was sensible to replace it.  I will buy some proper sensor cleaner asap.  :)

The old plugs actually looked ok (Bosch) but the coil packs were in a dreadful state.  All of the plastic cases were cracked and flaking although the metal bodies looked fine - just old age I guess. 

I fitted Beru plugs and the cheaper ARC coil packs (£16.50 each) and a couple of new heat shields - one was rusted to dust...

I guess the UK weather has taken it's toll on all of the stuff underneath!

So pleased with the improvement but a tricky job....

Durametric was telling me I had a misfire on Cyl 6 so I elected to change all of the plugs and coil packs.  After reading the advice on here it was clear that it would be a fidldy job but good heavens, what a pain!!!  The plugs near the front are easy but the 2 at the rear are a nightmare.  Next time I think I shall get the local Indy to do it! 

Anyway - just to note that the difference is truly startling....  I am amazed how I must have got used to gradually decreasing performance without really noticing it.  She now pulls like a train and puts a huge grin on my face - well worth the effort and makes an outstanding difference. 

If yours are due for a change - do it!

Many thanks - I have ordered a new IACV... 

I had a quick look at it and it was badly "carboned up" and a quick clean with brake cleaner had no real affect.

Regarding the variocams - "Early ROW 996's can only trigger one bank's VarioCam actuators using the Durametric system".........

I assume that the Durametric and the car is behaving correctly?  ie only 1 bank will respond to the selections in the software and the poor idle is due to the IACV? 

Mine is a 1998 UK 996 with the latest vesrion of the Durametric software. 

Hi all, I have recently revived my old 996 after 18 months off - it has been sat in my shed with a cover over it.  All seemed well and after a new set of plugs and coils it was running very well apart from.....

1.   It would not tickover after a cold start in the mornings - fine once warmed up.

2.   Tickover is a bit lumpy - not a misfire just "hunts" a bit and is not smooth - drives fine.

I have cleaned the throttle body, MAF and IACV valve connections which improved things a bit with a higher tickover speed of about 900 rpm.

I then fired up the Durametric and (after updating the software) I find the following fault code - P0506 IACV.

Whilst I was playing with the software I tried to start and stop the variocam actuators.  Bank one appeared to be successful resulting in a reduction in revs and very lump tickover.  Bank 2 had no effect?

I assume bank 2 should do the same as bank 1?

I am giessing that this may be (from my reading on here) a problem with the electronic control of the variocam - a solenoid of some sort. 

Can anyone confirm my analysis and recommend how to fix it (DIY)?

Thanyou in a dvance.

Thankyou so much - a good clean was indeed required. You are a genius!

ps whats an ICV please?

Hi, its a 1998 996 C2. UK car... I had already "cleaned / checked" the MAF sensor and checked for leaks in the various vacuum circuits and cleaned some gunge from the butterfly... I actually gave the old airfilter a brush down to clean it up a bit and noticed a marginal improvement in the tickover - ie would run soon after start (not straight away) so I thought a new filter would be a good idea....... and she ticks over straight from cold now. I have noticed that the rpm drops quite low - (300 ish) immediately after start but then quickly rises to a steady 800rpm or so. Note that the throttle is not touched at any stage.... a bit of gas at startup and she ticks over at 800 ish straight away. I was wondering if I have inadvertently cured a leaky joint where the air intake joins the throttle housing (big jubilee clip holds it on) and that has cured the problem..... I find it difficult to accept that the airfilter was "strangling" the engine.

Anyway it is fixed now so I am happy ...

I have had a "cold" idle problem for some time (would not idle until engine warmed up a bit) and after messing about with various potential solutions I ended up changing the air filter for a new one and this cured the problem I am delighted that all is now well but I do not understand why! The old filter had done about 10,000 miles and although a bit grubby it was not so bad - I have seen much worse!

Any thoughts? I am wondering if maybe I have moved something else whilst replacing the air filter ..... anyway - just a thought. Any comment very welcome.

I had a thread going on rennlist concerning this topic however I can't access it for some reason- sorry to those who have been reading that thread.

I have been playing around with my engine oil trying to get valve tapping to clear. I had a very noisy valve on the passenger side of the engine. Tried 0w40,5w40,half 5w40 and half 15w50. Nothing took the sound away however I can consistently make the sound go away by filling the oil to slightly above full (about 4-5m above line on dipstick). I have also ruled out that the egr valve was causing the noise (first by unhooking the valve and also because the noise comes from the passenger side of the engine).

I realize that overfilling the oil can be a big problem however I have been trying to find information on slightly over filling (4-5mm over the line). The car runs great with the current oil level and also no noise. Is it a huge problem to have the oil overfilled this much. It seems that that 4-5mm wouldn't cause frothing. I am happy now that the tapping has gone away but I would prefer to hurt the engine. Also, why would valve tapping go away when I slightly overfill the engine?

Thanks,

Steve

sorry- typo- second to last line- prefer NOT to hurt the engine. I suppose this was somewhat obvious

Hi There,

I have exactly the same problem and accidently came across the same solution - slightly overfilled - although if I leave it standing for a few days its starts with a hell of a clatter then goes really quiet annd runs as sweet as a nut. Did you get any answers to why this happens and what the "proper" solution is? I was thinking of getting rid because of the noise - are replacement lifters a big job?

Many thanks to all - I will order the new starter and have a go. Wish me luck!

When replacing my alternator, I saw the starter in the cave-like hole that was left after pulling the alt out. Looks like it is a pain, but doable nonetheless. To me it just looked deep inside, but I think that with plenty of light and determination one could replace one on their own.

Thanks Deanslist

How tricky was it to remove the alternator? Think it may need to come out to gain access to the starter!

I need to replace the starter motor and I have studied the instructions in the 996 manual but it looks like a very difficult item to get access to. Has anyone actually done it and if so were any special tools needed. The bolt to the left (looking forward) of the starter motor looks impossible to reach. Any thoughts?

logray,

Is there a diagram/picture somewhere that points out where these engine elements are?

I'm new to my 996 and wouldn't want to remove the wrong bit (I'm not saying I don't know what engine parts are, it's just that I'm not familiar with the Porsche names).

My throttle is rather flat until half way - I may give the cleaning a try.

Danny

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=64867

I had a similar problem after changing the starter motor (it involved removing the throttle butterfly) and I inadvertantly managed to replace the rubber hose slightley off centre - this covered what looks like a vaccumm tube and stopped the motor from ticking over although it would start and respond to the throttle ok. I moved it a couple of mm (to uncover the holes) and all was well. Hope this helps - good luck!