Chris_C

Well.. i was really hoping i wouldnt have to write one of these posts... but based on past similar postings i did a days worth of poking around to see what was up...

- There are Oil "Drops" in the coolant, it isnt a small amount

- The car was losing coolant, one day the coolant light flipped on and thats what lead me to find it. There are no signs of coolant leaking?

- Did a compression test, 160 - 170 across the board

- Spark plugs are in great shape

- Oil Cap is IMPOSSIBLE to remove while running.

- The oil looks clean on the dipstick - i am going to drain it and see what the rest looks like

Any thoughts are appreciated!

I have seen that exact issue. When the sensor gets hot it open up and turns off the fuel as the DME thinks the engine is not running.

If you want the error code you need to take the reading with it hot and stopped.

This is most likely the CPS or a bad connection at the CPS.

Interesting, it does make sense - i will order it on monday and see what happens thanks!!

did a quick search but didnt see anything related...

I was driving at around 70km/h coasting when the engine suddenly cut out without any indication of a problem what so ever.... So i coasted to the side of the road as quickly as possible. After giving everything a quick look over i tried cranking it over a few times with no luck, it was just acting as if the crank position sensor was acting up again. I let it sit for about 15 min and it fired up again.

I drove it the short way home and hooked up the durametric. No record of anthing...

So i let it idle for a bit, and again it shut off with no indication what so ever....

Currently i have been having an issue with the crank position sensor causing the ocassional starting issuse when the engine is hot - could that cause it to shut off while driving as well?

Also, after it cut out i noticed a tiptronic fault p0740... which was not there before... But is now recurring

Any thoughts on these new issues would be appreciated

Do you mean number 7 in the diagram in the link below?

http://www.autoatlan...9-05/801-70.php

P/N 996 504 394 01

that looks to be correct.... but the part number on mine is deffinitly 793 and not 394.... :huh:

Chris

Hey guys,

I have been trying to track down part number 996504793-01 (Black plastic trim infront of the rear wheel well, driver side) Has this part number been discontinued? a search lead to zero results....

Chris

Please keep it going guys, my 1999 996 cab is doing the exact same thing. If you fix it, please post the remedy.

On my 2000 C2 I had a really rough time starting when it was hot. Everything sounded healthy, it would just never "Catch" ; No check engine light or anything.... So I decided to bite the bullet and purchase durametric's software/hardware. It found a recorded fault - which i cleared and waited untill it happened again. Sure enough it was there again after the next failed starting attempt... Crank position sensor was toast - so i would add that to the check list if you havent solved it yet :)

Chris

If it is not the maintinance, it will be the gas mileage and a heavy right foot that will get you over that budget. I probably put 10 - 15K Miles a year on my C2 and it deffinitly isnt cheap filling it constantly with Chevron 94...

Tires arent so bad Falken FK-452's seemed to work pretty good (30K+ Miles and almost 3 years)

i imagine the softer glass has to do with pedestrian saftey if anything?

Regardless, both my 911 and Z4 have terrible pitting on the windshields

I have the exact same problem on my front driver side (but mine are black) - it appears to be a clear coat that is peeling off. The repair should be pretty simple - remove the rest and respray with high temperature clear coat again

Could be a rock stuck between the brake dust shield and the brake rotor...I had that happen on my front driver side and it sounded terrible!

i had a similar issue with my 2000 911 as well... similar squeeking when the engine was warm allthough i noticed it most of the time when the window was down while sitting at traffic lights

After months of chasing the problem it ended up being one spark plug half way off... did you notice any that were too easy to get out by any chance? haha

Hi Chris, Just wondering if you ever went through with it? I was considering the same conversion...\\

cheers,

Not yet... i have been contemplating getting an 04 GT3 ... and giving the C2S to the wife (hard for her to complain then :lol: )

Judging by the prices of 996's now days ... i am doubtfull i could pull off the swap for less than selling the auto and purchasing a standard ...

Hey guys,

I have a 2000 C2 , Canadian car - Ultimately I was looking for a standard from day one, but I could not pass the deal up... long story short... I miss a standard gearbox.

I have done a quick search and have not seen any indication that anyone has documented the swap from Tip to 6spd .... so... does anyone know if it has been done before...?

If I were to sell I will be taking a hit due to 100K miles, and the fact it is a Tip... so the second question would be: Is it going to be more cost effective to do the swap (Parts only, I will be doing labor) or sell and buy a standard?

Any insight is appreciated :)

23 (the current 996)

Don't rule out your ignition switch. When one goes out it can cause all kinds of issues with your climate control. Try jiggling the ignition key and see if it makes any difference.

Interesting - I will take a look at that as well

- Turning the heat setting to high does stop the servo sound

- As the temperature is reduced from high the servo sound starts becoming intermittent

- The servo sound becomes more continuous as the temperature is lowered

Chris

The compressor is definitely cycling on and off , I will try setting it to full heat this afternoon and see what happens

If this is the case, what is the procedure involved with fixing it?

Thanks!! :renntech:

Hey Guys,

I did a search, but couldn’t seem to find anything in depth with the same symptoms (sorry if this has been covered before!)

2000 911 966

The other day my air conditioning stopped working out of the blue - it was as strong as ever up until that point which leads me to believe that it is not a refrigerant leak

When the key is in the ignition and turned to the first position i can hear servos moving continuously within the dash, this does not stop over time, nor does it change when the temperature setting is adjusted on the climate control unit.

When the air conditioning is on and the air temperature is set to low it almost seems as if the heater is on.

Actually the "heater" is ALWAYS ON. Engine coolant at 190F flows through the heater core continuously, no blockage, no "metering". That's why the lower right side of your right leg always feels warmed/hot...IT IS..!!

In recent days the temperature has dipped to around 10 Celsius, and should be cooling the interior of the car - not heating it!

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated :)

Chris

If the reheat/remix blend door happens to be stuck in the full reheat position then you will get NOTHING but heated outlet airflow.

"...servos moving continuously.."

No, more probable that the reheat/remix blend door's servomotor is TRYING to move the door away from the full reheat/remix position.

If you set the temperature control to max heating the blend door will need to be in the full reheat position and the servomotor sound should stop.

Is the compressor cycling on and off...?

Hey Guys,

I did a search, but couldn’t seem to find anything in depth with the same symptoms (sorry if this has been covered before!)

2000 911 966

The other day my air conditioning stopped working out of the blue - it was as strong as ever up until that point which leads me to believe that it is not a refrigerant leak

When the key is in the ignition and turned to the first position i can hear servos moving continuously within the dash, this does not stop over time, nor does it change when the temperature setting is adjusted on the climate control unit.

When the air conditioning is on and the air temperature is set to low it almost seems as if the heater is on. In recent days the temperature has dipped to around 10 Celsius, and should be cooling the interior of the car - not heating it!

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated :)

Chris

this item is listed on Ebay and i was wondering if any have had experence with them. do they really add 12HP?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...d=p4506.c0.m245

my understanding is that an engine needs some backpressure. bypass removes just about all of it so you'll experience some loss of torque at low RPMs. as to whether or not they'll add 12 HP, the only way to know for sure is to dyno your car with them. try getting on a dyno check the HP and then get on the dyno again without mufflers. this will show you what changes, if any, you'd experience with bypass pipes.

its has been proven that NOTHING ADDS ANY SIGNIFICANT power increase to NA engines other than a SC. i have had muffler by-pass pipes.. and other than sounding wonderful... do not add HP... and for street use are not good as they shift the torque curve way up... noticably.

make your own with 90' stainless elbows, weld straight sections to them... get a shop to flare out one side so that they slide over the exhaust.... add tips... or not.... WAY CHEAPER...same result

cool thanks that is what i needed to know

I have done the bypass pipes as well, they are great fun!.... but if you put your foot into it you will be heard at least 1 mile away.... :lol:

The easiest way but non-reversible would be to cut it off with a Dremel. I would just leave it; you never know when you’re going to need a spare. GL

the shaft should just unthread, mine did. That way if you ever want to go on a longer road trip... you can just throw it all back in!

For now I just replaced it with a 12v air pump and tire sealent.

I would like to know what mileage everyone has on the 996. Also, if there has been problems with the car, please list it.

Thanks!

2000 Tip, ~64K miles, Daily driver

Problems - minor drip leak from valve covers, rear bumper could use some paint behind the rear wheels

aside from that, brilliant!

haha summer rain strikes again

If you look at Porsche's database there are some option codes that have no explanation next to them.

a mystery they shall remain i guess :lol:

Attached is a pic of a VIL from 2003 C4S coupe, 6-speed. In the list of option codes, i could find only 342, 680, 692, 982 in the references.

Does anyone know what the other codes (desides C02) mean? They are 288, 601, 981, 939, 985. A number of the codes (601, 692) are repeating.

From a practical point of view, I'm trying to determine if this car has 18" wheels, bi-xenon headlights and the PSM (which i believe was optional on MY2003?).

288 - Headlight Washer

601 - Litronic Lights

981 - All Leather Lining

939 - Soft Leather Rear

985 - Parts Silver Colored

Try this link http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...90&hl=codes

Hope this helps.

Will

i have a few as well that dont seem to exist on any list posted

135

245

336

mine does it too, but only if i am at really low revs... i figured it was normal?

Fluid and filter done within the last 1000 miles.

^ well, except the Vet bills... :lol:

To add to the list, my passenger seat rattles too... its called character... i find it hillarious B)