Brad Roberts

Hopefully these help, I document a lot of what I do :)

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Let me be clear: This is the hose we are looking for correct? (see arrow)

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I *thought* it would show it in the tank diagram but it does not. That particular hose helps pull a vacuum on the oil tank and heads. The check valve is to keep boost from pressurizing the tank and heads.

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Let me post this pic... and see if we can figure it out :)

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I'm up to 12 (B+M) removed :lol: I highly suggest you find a friend with one installed and drive it for a day. Many of us believe the B+M is causing premature wear in the tranny :(

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Do you track the car?

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+1

Fuel filter or fuel pump headed south. Hook it up to a PSTII or PIWIS and perform the volume test :)

I'd start with the fuel filter, cheaper and easier to do. Just south of you in Mountain View is Heyer Performance, he will drop you off and pick you up from the train station if you want to take the car to him. He is right near Google off of 101 and Rengstorff (650) 962-0930 (Tony)

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I recently fired an M96 S engine up that had sat for 5+ years. I used a PIWIS to fire the fuel pumps and make sure the engine would start RIGHT NOW when we hit the go button. Other than changing the oil, it fired right up :)

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They fit fine without spacers or special bolts. I have been installing them on Boxster's since the 19's came out. The biggest issue (surprise) for people is the cost of the replacement tires. The rear 265 is over $400 apiece. The 275 is around $360 :o

Doh! Forgot the pics :) This is an 01S

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Loren? :lol:

You have D_A_M_N in the bad word filter?? :lol:

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Correct (4) :)

You will notice a slightly stiffer brake pedal. Make **** sure you buy DOT approved brake lines. There are cheaper versions on the market that do not have bend restrictor's were the crimp occurs onto the actual braided line. This is were line fatigues and cracks without bend restrictor's.

The biggest benefit: when you are playing on the track or running around in the mountains, the heat soaked rubber lines swell and help cause the spongy pedal feel that does not build confidence in a driver!

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I like Jake, and I work with him over the phone 2-3 times a week, BUT I'd dump the Carrera and buy a 996TT Tip. They are good cars, and modding them is only limited to your imagination :)

I know the TIP in the 996TT is the VERY strong Mercedes SUV automatic, I'd be concerned with the Carrera TIP being able to handle 400hp or 350lb ft of torque (especially with 110k on it)

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Using a large prying object, get the bottom of the spring to jump over the lower spring perch (pry it out) once it has jumped the lower perch lip, grab the spring and TWIST (screw) it down the perch. This will remove all the spring tension. Now you can compress the shock (wrap a rag around the top to pull down on) and remove the spring.

My only concern: watch your brake line VERY carefully. Support the upright with something (I use a bungy cord) You will need three hands. Two to pull down on the shock (or at least get it started) and one to yank the spring off, depending on how strong you are.

I pull the shock out and away from the body the best I can and protect the fender lip with multiple layers of blue tape where I *think* it might touch :)

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Presumably the LH Ram (hinge) also differs btwn Coupe & Cabrio

Correct!

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All the other parts appeared to be identical. I suggest you take a peek at the part numbers on what you have currently.

I'm pulling this info from the dealer version of PET that is updated several times a week via the web :)

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Here we go..

The VIN is telling us it has a A96 (ChickTronic)

Sorry.. forgot to tell you: A96.30 would be ChickTronic all wheel drive along with package: M339

This one is two wheel drive :)

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Thought I'd go ahead and run the sheet for you :)

C2.pdf

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Here you go.. with the two different part numbers :)

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I have dealt with these and have yet to find ANYTHING built to withstand the tq/hp of a TT engine against it.

You know what we did (a lot)? We yanked all the 4 wheel stuff out and saved the owners upwards of 50lbs.

The coupler itself weighs 20+ lbs :(

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Just so everyone is clear, these two pic's show the intermediate shaft for the TT/GT3 (and all air cooled 6cyl Porsche's for the last 60 years) and the intermediate shaft for the M/96 engines (which has ZERO in common with the air cooled or late 993 engine based water cooled engines)

The TT/GT3 shaft VERY VERY rarely fails. It is not in a sealed roller bearing like the M/96 based engines. It literally sits in what amounts to 4 bearing clam shells. What you do not see in this pic is the shaft running the oil pump.

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Depending on where you are, I can take a look at it for free if you'd like :) I typically have a water pump and gasket+coolant in my truck for the racers I work with, but I just left my truck and trailer in Texas for an upcoming PCA Club race.

I'm out near Upland, but need to travel to Huntington beach sometime this next week. I'll bring whatever tools I need for front cover removal (10mm socket)

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(?? what's the sweet spot?)

Something I try to get across to people: align the car FOR YOU. You can take advice and try others suggestions, but ultimately it is YOU who has to drive that car.

The very first GT3Cup car I touched came off the boat in early 2000 with -5.5. We sent the driver out and he was SLOW.. took tire temps and figured out very quickly.. he is not PRO and cannot use all of the tire with that much negative in it. The cars were setup for Formula 1 glass smooth tracks and PRO drivers. We backed off the camber to -3.5 front and -3.0 rear and he dropped 4 seconds off his times on the second lap out in the next session. He was more comfortable in the car (at CAL Speedway)

My point: take in as much information as possible BUT throw out all the information from people who are SLOWER than you. I use a sports analogy with people I coach/instruct: I used to play AAA two man sand volleyball, it did my partner and I NO good to play people who were worse than us. You will learn nothing from people worse than you :) Now, that being said, listen carefully to those faster than you, but understand you will need seat time to get to their level :)

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You'll find out after a couple of events that the camber you get with stock control arms will wear the outside of your tires as you get faster in the car. This is why all of us switch to the GT3 control arms and can adjust in upwards of -5 -6 or -7 degrees of camber. Each tire used has a different requirement as well as different drivers require different settings. I *hear* the new Hoosier AutoX tire does not need as much negative camber for AutoX and works well in the -2 range.

Max out the negative and adjust toe. It will be fine.

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2mm total? or 2mm's PER SIDE for 4mm total? :)

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We are already on it like we are dating it (The Aftermarket) :)

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Where are you in Texas? I'll be in NorTex area all next week and would like to help you out. For free.. I'll put the car on a machine and run a flush on the system until we see clear. Very few people have the proper machine to do this (and I have access to one at a shop in NorTex) It is a recovery system that we can watch. You run the car with it hooked it up.

Honestly,

I have never seen a M96 engine be "ok" with oil coolant intermix. 99% of the time one of the heads is cracked. Your indy shops typically don't have the equipment to diagnose properly.

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