ericinboca

I have always used a high temp anti seize on exhaust bolts.

I've gone through a couple of sets of cats/headers on my track car - I also always have used anti seize on the bolts. I use it on just about eveything threaded on the car, including the lug bolts (gasp!!! - that's probably going to set of some comments :) ). But, I didn't know there was a high temp version. That'is good to know.

It could be a traction control fault.

Interesting idea - however, I turn PSM off, and we are talking about end of session when I am not stressing the car.

2004 986S dedicated track car

DME 7.8 - e-gas

Yesterday at Sebring, in the afternoon sessions, a few times when I mashed the throttle, nothing happened. No increase in revs. I would let off, mash again, and it would go - or maybe I would have to "pump" once or twice and then it would go. Never shut off - idled fine.

I know I have a bad o2 sensor in bank 2. I just didn't have time to replace it. A new one is on its way from Sunset. Could this be due to the bad o2 sesnsor or does this bring to mind something else? No other codes than 154 and 155.

Other things that have occured to me for comment -

* RFM said one time the fuel pump on track cars can get overheated and have issues - it was really hot - over 90 degrees and it was OK in the first two sessions (slightly cooler), only started around mid day, and did it at sessions when hot as opposed to the start of the sessions

* accelerator pedal module - wonder if there is a fault in the module, which I understand translates the cables position to an electrical signal to send to the throttle body - no codes though

Thoughts?

E-gas started with DME 7.2?

For an e-gas car, is there a comparable place that could cause a similar problem?

i did. looks all good.

took the intake off and cleaned the throttle body good, WOW was that thing dirty.

idle calmed down right away, and ran fine.

since its so random when it turns off, ill have to drive around some more and see if it shuts off, drove for 25 or so miles and it was fine.

could that have solved it?

I've not had a dirty throttle body problem on my 986, but I've seen many posts on them. It does seem to cause idle problems....and maybe when you press the clutch, pop out of gear, and let the RPMs drop down the idle speed, it shuts off like an idle problem.

I gather no check engine lights? You can, as you know, get fault codes without a check engine light though. Do you have a Durametric to check to see if it has triggered any codes?

And after it shuts off, does it start right back up?

I would not do anything else to it right now because we will just confuse ourselves by adding more variables. Having said that, I would look at the air cleaner, be sure it is clean.

Keep posting - interested in this one.

yup, so it seems to be still shutting off once in a while randomly...

only kinda corelation i can see is that its always once i have the clutch in and out of gear or ready to put it in the gear from another higher gear...

dont know if that matters...

anyone?

Have you gone back and looked closely at the collars on the air distributor tubes? Those collars are hard to get in the right place. I liked the vaccum leak theory - if you had a loose clamp, I wonder if the collars are fully seated. You have to feel around the edges, pushing at them to be be sure.

I'd like to offer an alternative to jack stands.

This is a hydraulic scissors lift.

Advantages:

* very easy and fast to get the car off the ground

* can lift 6K lbs (I service my truck on it)

* includes an automatic locking mechanism

* can be taken with you if you move

* you do not need tall ceilings, and it will lift 40+ inches if you have the room

* it is really stable

Disadvantages

* while they claim it is portable, it weighs 1000 lbs and is really hard to move around

* it will dig into the concrete but this is easily mitigated with a steel plate

* because of this particular model's design, you do not have full access underneath like you would with a 2-post lift

* your car may be too low to ride over it (note I have runners to get the height to go over the lift)

For me, it is great - inspect/adjust tires, brakes, suspension torques, change oil, filter, transmission oil, sway bars, wheels, struts, wheel bearings, etc.

Hi,

I have fitted dansk headers to my 01 boxster (us spec). As predicted the cel light went on because the the "header cats" are now gone. Im doing a remap next week and my dealer tells me the remap will take care of the cel, is this correct ?

re mapped to euro norm 3 standard will do it. at least it did in my track 986S. it will never pass a US emissions test this way.

Thanks. Does that mean that the re map will effectively disable 2 of the 4 sensors ?

No - it changes the standard by which it will throw a CEL - you will still have to have your secondary sensors plugged into the harness - it is still looking for a signal, just now it can sniff pure mountain air or the air in China's QuanDong province and not throw a code. You either wire tie them nice and neat, or insert them into your mid pipes if you have a place to do that - I did - My primaries sensors are in the headers (no cats) and my mid pipes (also not cats) had a place to take the second set of 02 sensors - so it is nice and neat under there.

Looking at a picture of the Dansk headers, it looks to me like there are two holes - the first sensors go in the first hole, and the second set in the second. Hard to tell for sure, but that is what it looks like on the dansk website.

Thanks again, sounds like this will work out fine once I've got the remap sorted. You are right that the dansk headers have two predrilled holes on each side, so there is no extra work involved in getting the secondary sensors plugged in.

Btw, I like the headers so far. Better mid range and throttle response.

emeer - one thing I forgot to mention, and can't believe I forgot. Some of the larger diameter headers are dangerously close to the power steering line on the drivers side. Be sure that line is not touching your headers. This happened to me on track once. The fire, which was quite small fortunately, melted wiring for the camshaft sensor and the 02 sensors on the drivers side. I was lucky.

Tim,

I'm in the same boat. 98 boxster just failed smog and looks like it might be the cats. However, we have a real problem. As stated by Geoff there are new laws governing what Catalytic Converters can be installed. At this time there are NO aftermarket converters for the BOXSTER that are CARB approved. How can I be so sure?? I manage a performance exhaust/muffler Shop in the Sacramento area.

If you were not to far off, like me, you might just want to get it warmed up a little more. I passed on the 15mph and failed the 25mph by 8 points on hydrocarbons. I’m going to change the plugs get it good and warm and give it another shot. If you can find your smog sheet post what you failed on.

Colby

I've used aftermarket cats before - had no problems. Recommend Maxspeed Motorsports for them - made in Taiwan, but they are very nicely made. I use the racing headers from Maxspeed now on my track 986S.

Changing the cats/headers is not a hard DIY - most of the header bolts are easy to get to...not all, but most. $2600 for new cats/headers installed is nuts.

Sorry if this is not the appropriate place, but can anyone recommend a Porsche repair facility in eastern NC? I live near Greenville and have been taking my car to the dealer, Performance Automall in Durham, at least 90 miles each way not mentioning the fact that I have to leave it and take off work to do it.

I had a problem with the fuel gauge not going to full when I filled the tank, it would hover around 1/3 a tank and after 4-5 restarts it would then raise up to full. They had diagnosed and replaced the fuel sender and my gauge still doesn't give the correct fuel level and I have restarted the car about 10 times and it is still sitting around 1/3 tank even though it is almost full. When I got it from them the fuel gauge was at full and I ran it back down to less than a quarter tank and filled it yesterday.

I can't help you with a repair shop closer to Greenville, but I can suggest two "home remedies" to try.

1. Remove the key from the ignition. Fill the car full. Disconnect the battery and leave disconnected for five minutes or so. What we are trying to do here is re-calibrate without the benefit of a PST2. Try this over 4 - 5 fills.

2. Related, do you leave the key in the ignition when you fill it? Try removing the key completely. There is something about some continued contact sometimes with the key in that can mess up the reading.

I have not had this issue, but I understand many other 986s have.

Good luck, from a former North Carolinian.

I'm looking to install a VDO oil pressure gauge in my 04 986S track car.

To do this, I understand I need a 996 sender which has two wire connectors - one for the idiot light and the other for the gauge.

There are two VDO gauges:

* one for 10 - 180 ohm range sender

* and one for 240 - 33 (U.S. Ohm range)

Anyone know the range of the 996 sender or which VDO gauge works with the 996 sender?

I measure ~19 ohms on the variable side of the sensor from my '99 when there is no pressure. If you use the factory sensor with a non-factory gauge, you'll want to use compressed air with an independent gauge to make sure the sensor and gauge play together.

I've been thinking of doing the same on my boxster - but using the VDO sender screwed into the un-used oil pressure tap on the other head.

Does anyone know the thread size of the 996 sender? VDO sending units come in M10 M12 M14 or M16 thread sizes

- Art

I did not order a VDO sender for this reason. The Boxster sender is an M16 x 1.50. I am assuming, maybe incrrectly, that the 996 sender is the same. I ordered a 996 sender....we'll see if it works.

I'm looking to install a VDO oil pressure gauge in my 04 986S track car.

To do this, I understand I need a 996 sender which has two wire connectors - one for the idiot light and the other for the gauge.

There are two VDO gauges:

* one for 10 - 180 ohm range sender

* and one for 240 - 33 (U.S. Ohm range)

Anyone know the range of the 996 sender or which VDO gauge works with the 996 sender?

My prototype. It came out pretty good. The big piece is what I made; the bottom piece is factory. This is 1.4" plywood with rustoleum textured paint.

I've never seen any in all my perusing of the various p-car parts listings, so I doubt they exist. I think it would be fairly simple to fabricate blanks on your own, if you have any reasonable abilities.

I can't find them either. I've got a couple of pieces of black textured ABS on order...I will try to make my own. I will make a thin plywood template and then try use that to guide the plastic around a router bit. See if that works. Might melt it...not sure.

I have an oddment tray and a CD holder right above it in the center console bracket.

I'd like to take those two out and replace them with "blanks" so I can mount some switches on the face of these blanks.

While it is a track car, I've kept it looking good, looking stock, and would like to get blanks that look like factory.

I can find frames, but not whole blanks in the PET.

Anyone know if Porsche or someone aftermarket makes "blanks" to go in these spots??

2004 986S

Hi,

I have fitted dansk headers to my 01 boxster (us spec). As predicted the cel light went on because the the "header cats" are now gone. Im doing a remap next week and my dealer tells me the remap will take care of the cel, is this correct ?

re mapped to euro norm 3 standard will do it. at least it did in my track 986S. it will never pass a US emissions test this way.

Thanks. Does that mean that the re map will effectively disable 2 of the 4 sensors ?

No - it changes the standard by which it will throw a CEL - you will still have to have your secondary sensors plugged into the harness - it is still looking for a signal, just now it can sniff pure mountain air or the air in China's QuanDong province and not throw a code. You either wire tie them nice and neat, or insert them into your mid pipes if you have a place to do that - I did - My primaries sensors are in the headers (no cats) and my mid pipes (also not cats) had a place to take the second set of 02 sensors - so it is nice and neat under there.

Looking at a picture of the Dansk headers, it looks to me like there are two holes - the first sensors go in the first hole, and the second set in the second. Hard to tell for sure, but that is what it looks like on the dansk website.

Loren,

For the below issue, could it be my charcoal cannister valve stuck open thereby lowering the fuel pressure?

What do you think? I am running fine but still trying to fix these codes without going to the dealer which is a long way away.

P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

This means that your mixture is running too lean - that is, the DME can not make the mixture rich enough to compensate for additional air.

Potential fault areas:

- Intake air system leaking.

- Fuel pressure too low.

- Volume supply of fuel pump too low.

- Fuel injectors fouled.

I don't know the answer to the question on the charcoal filter, but I think your most likely culprit is at the air intake. Be sure you look at all the big tubes at the top of your engine - the air intake tubes. If it has been in storage, these might have cracks in them, letting too much air - or maybe temperature changes have made them expand and contract to the point there they are not overlapping properly and there is a gap.

The 02 sensor screws into your exhaust header before the catalytic convertor. Your fault read out is saying the problem on is on the passenger side. Look to be sure the wires are all still intact; be sure it is still plugged in tightly. You can unplug and unscrew it and test for continuity, etc. if the wiring looks OK. There are some posts about testing the sensor. New ones are $140 or so - Sunset will have them cheaper, and you can get aftermarket ones that are universal (and cheaper) but you have to cut the old connector off and wire it to the universal one.

Chances are nothing is wrong with your DME.

$250 for an oil and filter change seems high to me. Mobil 1 retails at about $7 a quart, you need a little more than 9 quarts - the Porsche recommended filters are $10 - $15, and the oil drain plug is $1.50. It is a simple DIY and Loren has instructions posted.

Does anyone here own a set of factory workshop manuals? If you do, can you comment on how useful they are, do they have good diagrams, are the proceedures clear and well written enough to be usefull to a home mechanic, etc? I am considering buying a used set but they are still very expensive and want to make sure they are worth it. I haven't seen any electronic or aftermarket alternatives yet, maybe there is somthing out there just as good for a lot less $$.

Loren, are those diagrams you always post from the factory workshop books? They seem to be real nice if they are.

Thanks for any input,

Doug Davis

PM coming

Warning - shameless personal plug coming.... :D

If you find you need to replace your strut mounts in the front, I have a set in good shape that came off my 2004 986S. There is a post in the for sale section.

I think there are two things you need to look at the top of your strut - the bearing - the thing that is supposed ot allow free turning of the strut when you turn the wheel; and the strut mount.

There is a little rubber cap in the front boot where the strut mounts to the wheel well. Pull that off, and use a flash light to examine the rubber in the mount's bushing. Like the other poster says, you likely need to take the tension off the strut and see what movement, etc, you have at the top of the strut.

Hi guys,

How hard is it to install front and rear sway bars in my 01 Boxster?

I am considering buying a couple of used H&R sway bars at a decent price, but the shop wants 3 hours (@$120/hour) to install them?

Is it a DIY job? What skill level and tools would I need?

All the best,

Gus

It is not hard, and I can talk you through it, and take pictures as I install the set of fully adjustables I am putting in next week.

On the rear, the hardest thing is removing that aluminum pan thing - not sure what it is called. But with some patience, you can get it off. That exposes the mounts where the bar goes with he bushings.

On the front, you have to take a bunch of those clips that hold the plastic cover out, so it droops down, giving you access to the area where the bar goes. You have to remove the bolts that hold a plate on that covers the area where the bushings and bar go. You have to figure out how to "thread" the bar up and in the wheel well correctly.

It really is not too hard of a job. Not much to screw up as long as you don't loosen the lower control arms or the toe adjust arms - if you do then you would need an alignment -- and you do not need to loosen these to do it.

Tools are regular shop things - metric wrenches, screwdriver/needle nose pliers to help pry off the clasps. A torque wrench to retighten everything.

I've had an exhaust rattle for a couple of weeks now that finally turned into a roar over the weekend. I climbed under the car to figure out what was wrong and discovered that the pipe connecting the catalytic converter to the muffle is disconnected. My thought was to loosen the bolt on the clamp, shove the pipe back in and tighten the bolt back. I'm going to give it a try this weekend when I can get the car up on ramps and get a little better access. Anyone have any tips or thoughts?

Cheers!

That's a fun job!! (Note sracasm)

No, just kidding - it is not too bad - can be a little frustrating, but take your time, you will get it.

Be sure the car is cold. (This happened to me at the track once - and like an idiot, I tried to fix while still hot. I still have burn scars on both hands.)

Spray the nuts on the coupling with a penetrating oil, (night before if you can and then again day off) and go ahead and spray a bit where the tube fits into the coupling.

I think you are talking about the U shaped pipe? If so, you will probably have to loosen the coupling on the other end too. Spray it with penetrating oil too, and work it to try and get it looser. It will be a tight fit by design, but it should rotate some.

The receiving part on the muffler is split to allow some expansion. You want to get the end of the U pipe in pretty far - about an inch if you can before you tighten the coupling back down, and be sure the coupling is in far enough on the receiving part to cover this split. This is why you might need to loosen the other coupling some - to give you more pipe to move around.

It all fits correctly, but everything has to be where it is supposed to be - the muffler has to be in the middle; the "U"s have to be inserted the correct depth on both the muffler and the mid pipes - see what I mean? It gets frustrating if things are way out of whack, and you have to take it all apart and put it back together.

Whatever you do, resist the urge to hit it with a hammer. I've embarrassed to say I made that mistake too. You can break a weld seam on the cats on the header.

Hi,

I have fitted dansk headers to my 01 boxster (us spec). As predicted the cel light went on because the the "header cats" are now gone. Im doing a remap next week and my dealer tells me the remap will take care of the cel, is this correct ?

re mapped to euro norm 3 standard will do it. at least it did in my track 986S. it will never pass a US emissions test this way.

As an alternative, take a look at Tarett Engineering camber plates. I put these in my track dedicated 986 and can now get more than -4 camber in the front (although have found the right camber setting for my setup to be -2.85 in the front.) A set is $450. The draw back is I can't get the opposite - I have to have minimum of -2.

Well, it's open! I ended up going to my local independent shop and $204.00 later, they got it done. They went in through the right fender well and somehow managed to get it done. It turns out that the problem was a spring that was completely stretched out and useless. I had them remove the latch mechanism and I hope to find a used, inexpensive one that I can install myself. Thank you for all your suggestions and advice!

204 seems like a bargain to me :D

I'm intrigued - I'm gonna take a look on mine and see if I can figure out how they did it.

Are you aware of the front hood release cable located inside the fuel filler door on the right side fender? It is located on the left side just behind door latch. It sometimes recedes to point where it is not readily visible. It the end of a release cable with a heavy plastic type coating to facilitate grabbing hold of it. When you pull it out about an inch you may not hear the hood release click, but that doesn't mean it hasn't released. Try to get your finger tips under the hood so you can release that safety latch release. The filler door cable was on models through 2000 MY.

Thanks for your suggestion but the release cable you refer to doesn't exist on my car. I'm thinking about removing the part of the driver's door saddle that houses the release levers for the front hood and rear trunk. Perhaps I could pull the cable from there. Anyone have any experience with that approach?

hmm...not sure what to try next. getting desperate with this suggestion - there are four "lids" - at least that is what the PET calls them, on the floor of the front tub. Two are maybe 4 inches in diameter and two are half that. I wonder if those knock out? if so, I'm not sure what to do, though. I'm not sure you could reach the mechanism.