ericinboca

Which type of brake pads do you recommend me, for my 996 that will be good in performance for DE, but will not be very noisy for driving on the street?.

Pagid has a sport pad that is not quite a track pad, but can take more heat than the stock pads. Think they are called Pagid sport blue. That might be worth a try. And, as the other poster suggests, the OEM pads might be good for you. But it is a hard question to answer. If you have or get some experience on the track, you might find the OEM pads cannot handle the heat, and you might have to move to track pads, like Pagid Orange. But the track pads make more dust, don't work as well when cold as do the street pads, and can make noise.

When I first got started doing DEs, I started with stock pads, and after a few weekends, got good enough that I was cooking them. I was still driving my car to the track in those days, so I changed to track pads before leaving home if the track was reasonably close, and then change back at the end of the weekend. I see a lot of guys change them at the track.

Thanks. Question: If I look to first picture, what is the cylindrical part that is in front of the pad?

That is a "post" or some people call it a brake bolt. Some other names too. It prevents the pad from moving forward under braking. It is held into the caliper with a roll spring.

Can this post touch the rotor?

That's the first thing people think, but no, it will not touch. The caliper is fixed, and it is part of the caliper. The caliper does not move at all. The pads are the things that move in and out. You mash the brake, and they press against rotor, as you know. As you use more pad, the caliper pistons move farther out of the caliper...until eventually, if you go far enough, to use of all the brake pad, and press the pad's metal backing plate against the rotor. You will not get that far - the wear indicator will go off on your dash.

Thanks. Question: If I look to first picture, what is the cylindrical part that is in front of the pad?

That is a "post" or some people call it a brake bolt. Some other names too. It prevents the pad from moving forward under braking. It is held into the caliper with a roll spring.

While researching what brake pads to buy for my Boxster, I noted that many of you prefer to use the OEM pads available from Porsche (Textar) and Pagid pads. So, that's what I bought. I bought Textar pads as well as rotors and hardware from Sunset Imports for a fair price.

The Textar pads did not come with any "bedding" procedure, so I spent much time digging up dozens of opinions about how to bed new pads. You'd need a race track to follow some of the procedures that I found!!!

Confused, I contacted the corporation that makes both Textar and Pagid. They sent me the attached procedure which is really quite simple. For these brands, I would advise this procedure unless there is a specific procedure provided with the new pads, written by the manufacturer.

For what it's worth, I followed the procedure and my new front brakes are great. I was surprised to learn what they said about rear brakes..... See attachment.

Bob

Brake_Pad_Bedding_in_procedure.pdf

This is good. I think what you were seeing in other bedding procedures, Bob, were procedures for Pagid track and racing pads. They do need to get quite a bit hotter to transfer properly to the rotor, outgas and compete curing under heat, pressure and torque. As such, they talk about braking from 100+. Not a great practice for the street. I always buy extra sets of race pads, and break them in at some point during a track day, then pack them up for when I need them.

2002 Boxster S, 37,000 miles, moderate track use. I am a fairly good mechanic, in general.

My Boxster pretty well toasted its brake rotors the last 5 days at Watkins Glen, and needed a thorough going-over. Pulling the pads, I noted the outer dust cover (deal) on one of the calipers was burned, and came out in my hand. Pretty well like burned toast. So along with rotors, screws, Pagid Oranges, etc. I ordered new dust covers (outer seals).

My question is whether there is a trick to putting these in. I expect getting them out involves pressing in the pistons, and prying them out with a screwdriver or such. Re-inserting new ones may be more challenging. Any known tricks? Pistons depressed into cylinders or projecting out slightly? Special or helpful tools? Any help would be appreciated.

Eric

I rebuilt all four of my calipers in February on my '04 986S, replacing all the bore seals, pistons, boots and bleeder screws.

If all you are replacing is the dust boot, you don't really need to remove the pistons. Just press the pistons back in and pull the boots off. They have a lip that fits into a recessed area on the caliper, and the top of them fits into a recessed area on the top outer edge of the piston, but the boot is reinforced at those parts and you should be able to pull them right off. Below you will note I caution on the use of a tool with the pistons, but if all you are doing is the dust boots, you can use a dental type tool to help get them out.

If you want to go the full monty, here is way more detail than you asked for :D ....but be sure you read my caveat on doing the full monty below.

You have to disconnect the fluid line on the back of the caliper to inject air to make the piston come out. As such, you should just remove the whole caliper.

With the caliper off, and the brake line dripping into a bucket, use plenty of brake parts cleaner to wash everything down and getting as much fluid out. You don't have to do this, but if you don't, when you apply the air pressure, you are going to splatter nasty brake fluid all over the place. You can remove the bleeder screws too, and spray into those and into the back until you feel like most of the fluid is out.

Then you need some blocks of wood; best to have some of different thicknesses. Place blocks between the pistons so when you apply the air pressure, these things hit something other than each other. And be careful, they come out with significant force.

Use the different thicknesses to get the pistons most of the way out. Then you can pull them out with your hand if you got them far enough out. Don't use any metal tool on the pistons. You can scratch and ruin them.

It is a bit like a puzzle sometimes to figure out what thickness of blocks to use to get all four pistons out far enough at the same time to pull them out, but it will make sense once you start.

Inspect the pistons. If you boots are shot, and you've had a few track days where you were down to nothing on your pads, you will probably find a little bit of rash on the sides near the top. If this is all you have, just at the top, they can be reused, IMO. If they are scored on the sides in a place that would make the scratch go past the seal, then resuing them runs the risk of leaking past the bore seal.

Look into the cylinder and half way or so down, you will see the bore seals - one per cylinder. You get these out with a dental type tool. These are inexpensive and readily available. I've seen them at sears as well as lowes. If you pull the seal out, you should replace it, because you do not want to run the risk of cutting or tearing it at all.

Go crazy with the brake parts cleaner. Clean, clean, clean, clean - but only use brake parts cleaner, or brake fluid itself. NOTHING else in the cylinder but one of these two chemicals.

When you reinstall the bore seals, you lube them with a silicon grease (came with my piston rebuild kits from Brembo - have more if you want the name) like you lube the ring on an oil filter. Then you bend them (because the rings' inside diameter is slightly larger then the diameter of the cylinder, and fit them into the little recessed area in the cylinder.

The pistons go in next. No grease on them.

And then put a tiny bit of the grease on the lip of the dust boots to make them fit easier on the lip of the caliper...try not to get any grease on the outside of the boot though, because it will gum up with dust.

Once all back together, flush your brake fluid, and then bleed them a couple of times too.

I've found my dust boots don't last long. It depends on what tracks I am visiting, but I am watching them more carefully now, and replacing them at least, sometimes twice a year. It seems to extend the life of the pistons because the dust doesn't have as much chance to damage the top edge.

I trust you know the pistons are different diameters.

Full Monty caveat -

Unless you have experience some serious uneven wear,(unattributable to difference in grip in your tires) leaks, or have a jillion track miles, you probably don't need to rebuild the calipers completely. I've done it once in 15K track miles, and the bore seals were only marginally worn.

BTW, someday try pagid yellow up front and black in the back. I get WAY more life out of the yellows, and the blacks, being a little more aggresive, is like a poor man's brake bias. They work nice with yellows upfront. Also, I found better cooling using the GT3 RS brake spoilers.

1999 Boxster, 30300 miles, tipronic tran

Can anyone offer info on how to remove the rear trunk carpet.

I thought it is glued down. A closer look tells me the carpet appears

clipped to the trunk body. Anyone have any tips or tricks for lifting

the carpet rather than the jerk and rip method.

Thanks for your help

Bob

Don't know if it is the same in a '99, but in my '04, there are four carpet pieces.

One lines the "floor" of the trunk

Two cover the left and right "ends"

And one covers the back

The "floor" on attaches with two plastic fastnerers, one on either side of the latch. You pry those out with your finger nail.

And the latch cover comes off with two screws, and then the thing lifts right out.

The end pices have a plastic nuts, and the rear piece has several of the plastic fasteners you pry off.

Like I say; not sure if the '99 is the same.

This was the easiest solution that I came up with too. But...Do the straps rub the paint off the wheels? Where did you get the "t" bars from?

Thanks again for the input, the members on here are great!

:renntech:

My stock wheels are the carrera 5 spoke kind. I have not marred them in any way.

My rain tires are on a set of turbo twist wheels I got from a salvager, painted myself - quite poorly, BTW - and never clear coated. I did rub some paint off of them once.

If you get them nice and snug with a towel or something like that in between the strap and wheel, they shouldn't vibrate and rub. My "lengths" that go through the wheels have a soft leather or leather-like wrapping that touches the wheel.

I just started trailering my Boxster.

I bought a set of T hooks on the recommendation of several people on several forums. These go in the jacking points and then you secure ratchet straps to them. The idea is you are strapping to the chassis and not the wheels so the car is held down like when its shipped from Porsche. I found this method very difficult as the straps have to be held under tension or the T hooks fall out. It's really a two man job. And even then you have to crawl under the trailer to make it work. We strapped the car down and drove a few blocks until one of the straps popped loose and started dragging. After that I gave up on this idea.

2nd approach seems to work much better. Basically what ericinboca does but only with 4 straps through the wheels. Front straps go straight and rears get crossed. I know a lot of guys use this method with no problems so that's what I am doing. I am slightly concerned about alignment issues with the rear as we pull the wheels at an angle and then bounce the car up and down as it goes down the road. Will this be a problem? Only time will tell. But I have never read about someone who tows with this strapping configuration who has had a toe out problem to make me worry about it too much.

Everytime I strap the thing down, I wonder if I am pulling it out of alignment, but I trailered it about 20 round trips (40 times total) last year alone, and I never felt after unloading that the alignment changed. You'd think I'd stop worrying - but I still wonder :huh:

I'm getting ready to move across country and am confused. When I did this move last time, I had a 911 and used tiedowns that screwed into the lug holes. I secured it to the trailer and made it 4000 miles trouble free.

These tiedowns say not for use on a boxster. Looking under the car, There doesn't seem to be many options on where to secure the car to the trailer, so how are all of you moving your cars when you trailer them?

Well, I don't know if I do it correctly, but this is what I do for my track 986S.

I use a total of six heavy duty straps. Two in the front that cross each other (to make an X) and two in the rear that do the same. These straps hook to a 20 inch length of heavy duty strap with D rings on the end - I run these lengths through my wheel.

I then use a strap, also through a wheel, that runs straight to the front, and one that does the same straight to the rear.

These prevent forward and backward movement. And the X straps contribute to that, but also prevent shifting side to side and rotation around its axis.

I tow out of gear, but with the parking brake on. I make sure the wheel is locked, tighten the dickens out of the straps that do not cross, and tighten up the X's, but not as super tight as the front and back straps.

If it rains, I find the straps stretch a bit and need to be retightened. I've never made a cross country trip like this, but have made many 1000 mile trips this way with no damage or problems. Just align the straps so they do not rub on the body.

2004 986S

20,500 miles, about 15K on the track

Driver's side catalytic convertor was replaced many thousands of track miles ago

Passenger side cat is still original

Talking about the cats integrated into the headers here - and the '04 has a sensor in the front and on the rear of these integrated cats - no sensors in the secondary cats

I got:

P0420

Porsche fault code 40

catalytic convertor efficiency bank 1

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

and I got:

P0430

Porsche fault code 45

catalytic onvertor efficiency bank 2

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

I put my stethoscope against both cats. The sounds coming from both are engine sounds...the sound on the passenger side seems a little deeper, but I don't hear anything I would immediately call "rattling around" sounds.

In bank 1, the 02 sensor resistance ahead of the cat is 128 Ohms, and the resistance in the sensor after the cat is 64 Ohms.

In bank 2, the resistance on both sensors is 64 Ohms.

A chart for voltage for bank 1 and for bank 2 can be seen here (click on the image to make it bigger - and sorry, I still haven't figured out how to upload an image):

http://user.streetfire.net/album/voltage-f...nks_1650087.htm

Anyone know what is going on here?

I took the passenger side header off - the honey comb is loose and sliding fore and aft. So, guess I need a new header on

that side.

Anyone want to diagnose the drivers side before I take it off?? I find it puzzling I got a fault code on both sides...

I just took the driver's side off. It moves fore and aft too, not as easily as the passenger side, but it does move if you tap the header or shake it hard.

Before I order two new headers, I'm hoping somebody can tell me if fore and aft movement (I cannot see any broken peices or cracks in the honeycomb matrix) means a dead cat.

2004 986S

20,500 miles, about 15K on the track

Driver's side catalytic convertor was replaced many thousands of track miles ago

Passenger side cat is still original

Talking about the cats integrated into the headers here - and the '04 has a sensor in the front and on the rear of these integrated cats - no sensors in the secondary cats

I got:

P0420

Porsche fault code 40

catalytic convertor efficiency bank 1

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

and I got:

P0430

Porsche fault code 45

catalytic onvertor efficiency bank 2

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

I put my stethoscope against both cats. The sounds coming from both are engine sounds...the sound on the passenger side seems a little deeper, but I don't hear anything I would immediately call "rattling around" sounds.

In bank 1, the 02 sensor resistance ahead of the cat is 128 Ohms, and the resistance in the sensor after the cat is 64 Ohms.

In bank 2, the resistance on both sensors is 64 Ohms.

A chart for voltage for bank 1 and for bank 2 can be seen here (click on the image to make it bigger - and sorry, I still haven't figured out how to upload an image):

http://user.streetfire.net/album/voltage-f...nks_1650087.htm

Anyone know what is going on here?

I took the passenger side header off - the honey comb is loose and sliding fore and aft. So, guess I need a new header on

that side.

Anyone want to diagnose the drivers side before I take it off?? I find it puzzling I got a fault code on both sides...

My '02S is in need of new rear lower controls arms, the one that's shaped like a fork on one end.

Vertex Auto sells remanufactured arms for $149 apiece and Sunset quoted me $294 apiece for new ones. Anyone have first hand experience with the remans or an educated opinion on which direction to take? My tendency is to take a chance on the remans as there's such a price difference and I'll be doing the work myself, so there will be no repeat labor cost if they don't last.

Here's the link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/128301%...rack%20Arm.aspx

Thanks,

Gary

Don't know for sure, but reman probably means they put a new bushing in...for a street car, I would go with reman. Unless the thing is bent or cracked or something, it should be fine.

2004 986S

20,500 miles, about 15K on the track

Driver's side catalytic convertor was replaced many thousands of track miles ago

Passenger side cat is still original

Talking about the cats integrated into the headers here - and the '04 has a sensor in the front and on the rear of these integrated cats - no sensors in the secondary cats

I got:

P0420

Porsche fault code 40

catalytic convertor efficiency bank 1

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

and I got:

P0430

Porsche fault code 45

catalytic onvertor efficiency bank 2

• Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged
  
• Valve lift fault
  
• Aged oxygen sensor after TWC
  
• TWC faulty
  

I put my stethoscope against both cats. The sounds coming from both are engine sounds...the sound on the passenger side seems a little deeper, but I don't hear anything I would immediately call "rattling around" sounds.

In bank 1, the 02 sensor resistance ahead of the cat is 128 Ohms, and the resistance in the sensor after the cat is 64 Ohms.

In bank 2, the resistance on both sensors is 64 Ohms.

A chart for voltage for bank 1 and for bank 2 can be seen here (click on the image to make it bigger - and sorry, I still haven't figured out how to upload an image):

http://user.streetfire.net/album/voltage-f...nks_1650087.htm

Anyone know what is going on here?

I've never done a wheel brng on a boxster yet but any of the others brngs I've replaced over the years always had a slight interference fit of the hub to brng. I would have to think the hub is damaged/worn.

That's a good thought. I hadn't considered the hub shaft being worn a bit.

I studied it more last night, and can give better detail now.

My tool does not press it all the way in...only part way. And I can pull it out from that point, or its weight, if inverted, can cause it t fall out. But it is tighter from that point on....I have to use a 300+ ft/lb impact wrench with the axle nut on the half shaft to draw it up all the way. Once flush fully installed, I can still pull it out by hand, but it is hard. It would not fall out on its own once all the way in.

Still, I would expect it to be a little tighter.

My car has developed a twitch... as if the suspension is "loose"... its most noticeable at motorway speeds (70mph+) when travelling in a straight line.... I'm guessing this could be due to a failed suspension bush and I've heard that the track control arm bushes are quite a common thing to break-up..... does this sound right?

Is there any way of testing which bush has gone without removing suspension from the car? E.g. Jacking the car up and pushing on the suspension... or is the movement too small to be noticeable in this way?

Thanks in advance!

I'm not sure you would notice movement just by pushing, jiggling, extra.

I would take a look at them. Look at the lower control arms. There is bearing were the control arms are attached to the frame - that one will be hard to see - there is a bushing where the leading control arm connects (talking front here), and in the back, a bearing connecting the control arm to the frame, a bushing for the leading control arm, and then the toe rod (not sure what it is really called) also has a bearing where it connects to the frame.

So, in the front, find one bearing and one bushing. In the back, find two bearings and one bushing.

Try to get a look at the rubber. Is it cracked, dried out, chunks missing? If so, then you probably need new bushings or bearings.

I pressed in a new left front wheel bearing for my 04 986S last night using my SIR tool.

I then pressed in the wheel hub. I had to press it in, which has been my experience before, but it promptly fell out.

I have to use the tool to get the wheel hub into the bearing, but I can, with just my hands and not much force, pull the hub out.

Is this normal? I've done fronts and rears on this car before, and don't remember this happening.

I was going to use these - Powerflex

A friend has a workshop with a press, so that'll be the way to go I think.

Pete

Got another tip for you - I forgot about this.

Freeze your new bushings for 48 - 72 hours. They will shrink. I was surprised by how much my solid bushings contracted.

I was going to use these - Powerflex

A friend has a workshop with a press, so that'll be the way to go I think.

Pete

That's the way to go - the press is awesome.

If the rubber in your current bushings is really old, tired and weak, when you press them out, they may tear off the outer metal sleeve, leaving it in the arm. Just take a flat head screwdriver and get it behind the sleeve and pry part of the sleeve inward. Then you can keep bending a little more and work your way down and created enough room enough room to change it's shape to come out or to cut it. If you scratch up the inner wall of the arm a little - no big deal, but do use some sandpaper, emory cloth, file, something to smooth down any rough edges. I only had this problem on one bushing. Others came out whole.

^^ That is good to know. Oil changes and similar routine maintence are pretty simple DIY's then? Some people I have talked to say to bring to dealers, but I'm not a fan of stealerships.

What is reliability like?

Yes routine maintenance is not an issue. You will probably have to get the paper oil filter cartridge from a place that specializes in Porsche parts, but the work itself is no prob. Other things like that too are not yet available at the local auto part store, but I think we will see more availability locally as the number of used 986s grow. A Bentley manual will also guide you nicely through that kind of stuff.

Lot of people more qualified to comment on reliability than me. But my opinion and my experience - highly reliable.

My 986S is a dedicated track car. I beat the dickens out of it on the track, both motor wise and suspension (anyone who has ever driven Sebring, what I consider my home track, will know the abuse I talk about). My oil analysis comes back with amazingly consistent and limited wear.

I have never had a serious problem - wear items, sure, but anything broken has been minimal and mostly attributable to it being on the track.

I would lean toward an 03 and 04, the end of the model years for the 986 because they made some reliability enhances over the early years, but this is the kind of detail others on the board can offer more specifics.

(BTW - lots of track days in easy reach of Miami all year round)

Geoff, are you asking me what I used for solid stuff, or what Pete is going to use? If me, I rebushed with Racers Edge solid bushings and bearings (and solid mounts for the coilovers). You probably know, but this is not something you are likely to want to do to a street car. But for a track car, I HIGHLY recommend it.

Hi everyone,

My name is Kurt. I currently have an 03 Audi 1.8T quattro, but there is a good possibility I will be moving to a much warmer climate for the next few years and I am starting to seriously look at the 986 Boxster. I'm 25 years old and will be moving down to the Miami area to finish my medical degree. I belong to a very involved Audi forum at audizine.com so I knew that before posting here I should spend some time and look around through the posts to get my own information before I started asking questions. Here is where I'm at now...

1) What is the maintenance like on a boxster? I like to turn my own wrenches on my Audi and consider myself fairly adept at keeping her in top running order. I'm a firm believer that sticking to scheduled maintenance will keep the car running longer and in better shape.

2) How reliable are the 2003 cars and at what mileage do the typical problems start to show up?

3) I am big in to modding my Audi for both performance and appearance and if I do get a boxster, she will not stay stock for long. I know that a lot of Audi tuners also work on Porsche, but what is the modding scene like for these cars?

I look forward to being a very active member of this community, and I hope to talk to a lot of you.

Here is a link to my Audi page so you can get a feel for where I'm coming from. Story of my 03 A4 1.8T

Cheers!

What's the maintenance like on a boxster?

If you have wrenched before, you will find it to be no big challenge. Even somewhat bigger things like wheel bearing replacements can be handled in the garage with the proper tools.

I replaced the bushings and sperical bearings on all four corners of my 986S track car. I was installing solid stuff for track use, but the removal of the bushings would be the same regardless, of course.

Harbor Freight and other places have a tool for this. It looks like a big, heavy duty C clamp and comes with "cups" for the bushing to fall into. It works, but is a little awkward, and can be hard. I could get some bushings and bearings out this way, but got tired of it, and took the arms to a friend's house where he has a 20-ton shop press. With that thing and the "cups" with the kit, it was a cake walk to get the bushings out. I also used the 20 ton press to press in new stuff.

Brian, I snapped the head off this bolt one time trying to remove it. I ended up drilling it out, retapping, and installing a new bolt. It took a lot of bits to drill it out and a bit of time and patience. I replaced the bolt with one I got at the hardware store matching my new drilled out size and threads.

I can't count high enough to tell you how many times I have reused my caliper mounting bolts on my 986S track car. Note, however, that I do torque to specs everytime.

My clutch pedal doesn't come back up all the way... only more like half way. When I assist it back up with my foot then it springs back up to the top. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this?

Thank you in advance.

Rick

It can be caused by air in the system. The 986 is hydraulically activated and shares fluid with the brakes. I'd start by bleeding the clutch.

The bleed screw is on the driver's side toward the top on the gear box. Easier with two people, but I did it recently by myself by using a board to hold the clutch depressed at the proper time. Loren has a DIY on bleeding the brakes on a 996 which includes a section on how to bleed the clutch. Those instructions are the same for a 986. You do not have to bleed the brakes....you can just pick up with the clutch bleeding. Here's Loren's DIY.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064