ericinboca

Well, I got it back from the dealer... $525.

THey replaced the whole lock/switch assembly. NOW, I understand how it works. They plastic part that I previously replaced was never the problem in my case. The insides of the actual assemble were getting looser and looser until it there was just too much slop in there to operate correctly and turn all the way over to the start position.

Anyways, hope this helps someone else too.

Ryan

wow

pricey...but we couldn't figure it out; they did.

glad you followed up with the answer

Another mystery involving a 2001 boxster I bought with no maintenance history.

Among many other issues I've solved/working on thanks to the help from everyone here on Renntech :renntech:

I've got another anomaly. The back wheels are much wider than the front wheels. I don't know anything (yet :)) about wheels or wheel sizes, but there are some numbers imprinted on the wheel around the valve stem hole. I assume it's the wheel size numbers...

The back wheel reads 8.5 and 48

The front wheels read 7 and 55.

The recess for the lugnuts are also quite different as the lugnuts on the front wheel are flush with the holes (almost sticking out). The back lugnuts are pretty recessed and out of sight. I don't care for the difference aesthetically.

Can anybody advise if this is a problem? What's the stock size wheel for a 2001 Boxster (non S)?

These are 17 inch? If so, my PET shows for the '01 these sizes as stock.

Hello folks...

I'm cleaning my 1999 Bxster and i would like to know how can i adjust the emergency brake lever....For now the lever ''click" too many times when it is supposed to ''click'' just 3 to 4 times.

Do i have to take off all the center console to do it ...

Thanks in advance

Robert

I'm sure the DIY will give you more detail, but you take the rear wheels off, rotate the disc so the top lug bolt hole is lined up with a semi cylindrical part with a gear in the middle. This gear and its housing are inside - you may need a flashlight to look in to be sure you have it lined up. Then you use a flat head screwdriver to rotate this gear - that tightens the cable. It rotates one way on one side to tighten, and the other on the other side. You also have to loosen the cable in the center console to have some slack.

Thanks for all the info.

Here is the deal: the car is completely stock and was used in Skip Barber driving school. They have all the records for scheduled and unscheduled maintenance although I have not seen them. Here is the car I was talking about http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

I decided to walk away from it and purchased a certified 996 from the dealer. I hope it is worth the extra money.

I think you made the right call. When the Panoz driving school shut down at Sebring, they sold off the Panoz student cars. I know some folks that bought them. They have not been especially happy. It is really easy for a beginner to put excessive wear on the motor and the tranny.

Got a couple of questions, and looking for some good shop recommendations in my area that specialize in what I'm looking for.

1) I want to get my brake calipers re-finished. I saw a place on-line that completely strips, and refinishes to OEM quality brake calipers for $100 a piece, but since he's out of state, would require me to remove all 4 brake calipers, mess with the brake fluid drainage, etc. which i don't really feel with messing with.

2) Along that note, I'd like to flush and replace all the brake fluid, power steering fluid, pretty sure the manual-trans fluid is all good since I had a new trans and clutch installed when i first got the vehicle. How incredibly difficult is it to do this myself assuming I've never messed with changing brake fluid before? Or is there a good shop i can use to do this?

3) Not a shop question, but ya know those plastic screws on the door panels that are underneath the pocket lids? They're kind of annoying and strip easily. Is there a replacement screw or something better to use instead of those plastic screws? Something like the "Thumb Knurl kit" (that was an awesome design).

Thanks, I'm in the west suburbs of Chicago, near Elgin / Barrington area.

Brake flushing is pretty easy if you use a pressure bleeder - I do it about 2x a year for my track car. I use a motive power bleeder. You hook this thing to your brake fluid tank, pump in some pressure with brake fluid in the container, and work your way around the car bleeding off the old fluid until the new fluid comes out at each of the two bleeder screws on each caliper. You can also bleed the clutch.

Loren has a great DIY on this technique under the 996 section, I think.

One note - brake fluid is nasty stuff, that can damage paint. Be careful with it. And be sure you have a good seal between the bleeder and the tank - i had two bad washers from motive, ended up getting a big washer from Lowes to get it sealed.

Here's Loren's DIY

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064

Got a couple of questions, and looking for some good shop recommendations in my area that specialize in what I'm looking for.

1) I want to get my brake calipers re-finished. I saw a place on-line that completely strips, and refinishes to OEM quality brake calipers for $100 a piece, but since he's out of state, would require me to remove all 4 brake calipers, mess with the brake fluid drainage, etc. which i don't really feel with messing with.

2) Along that note, I'd like to flush and replace all the brake fluid, power steering fluid, pretty sure the manual-trans fluid is all good since I had a new trans and clutch installed when i first got the vehicle. How incredibly difficult is it to do this myself assuming I've never messed with changing brake fluid before? Or is there a good shop i can use to do this?

3) Not a shop question, but ya know those plastic screws on the door panels that are underneath the pocket lids? They're kind of annoying and strip easily. Is there a replacement screw or something better to use instead of those plastic screws? Something like the "Thumb Knurl kit" (that was an awesome design).

Thanks, I'm in the west suburbs of Chicago, near Elgin / Barrington area.

Brake flushing is pretty easy if you use a pressure bleeder - I do it about 2x a year for my track car. I use a motive power bleeder. You hook this thing to your brake fluid tank, pump in some pressure with brake fluid in the container, and work your way around the car bleeding off the old fluid until the new fluid comes out at each of the two bleeder screws on each caliper. You can also bleed the clutch.

Loren has a great DIY on this technique under the 996 section, I think.

One note - brake fluid is nasty stuff, that can damage paint. Be careful with it. And be sure you have a good seal between the bleeder and the tank - i had two bad washers from motive, ended up getting a big washer from Lowes to get it sealed.

The two previous posters have very good points and questions.

Here is perspective from someone with a car that has about 15000 tracks miles, and driven very hard.

10K track miles is a lot - I would think it is a track car, and like a previous poster, would expect it to have substantial modifications. Maybe that's what you want. If so, I would want to know how it has been maintained. How often has the oil and filter been changed? Has the oil gone off each time for analysis? If so, what wear trends do the results show? Same questions for the gear oil, and how does the transmission feel?

Other Qs - What is the redline number with a PST2 or Durametric reading? Has the ECU been programmed with performance software? Were there other motor upgrades? (personally, I am not high on ECU software upgrades as it related to motor longevity - that is not based on anything scientific though)

I think it would be possible to get a car with 10K track miles that is in really good shape. Mine, for example. :D But I would want to know as much as possible. I'm not sure I would buy a track car from someone I did not know from the track.

No check engine light on yet. I have 45,000 miles at the most on the spark plugs I bought it when it had 39,000 miles on it.

I ordered new plugs with AOS to be installed, but the idle just drops on 1st start of the day. Even if the car has sat 8 hours after first start it only does on completely cold engine. It drops to about 300 rpms after about 5 seconds after starting sounds like its going to die then usually jumps back up by itself, sometimes I give it a little gas and it will then idle smoothly.

Hmm anyone know if Sunset can get that Motorsports AOS and any other additional parts necessary? I'm almost tempted to install that one instead.

There is a DIY for a Porsche Motorsports AOS install in a 986 over in the Boxster Mods section. The motorsports AOS is about twice the size of the stock - has much greater capacity. I installed in my 986 because the Gs on certain turns n certain circumstances overwhelmed the stock AOS. There were very specific symptoms for the need. It is not that the stock AOS had anything wrong with it. It is an expensive part compared to the stock part. You'd have to judge if you need it.

I'm giving serious consideration to converting my 2004 986S to a full-on track car. I consider it a dedicated track car now as it is not practical to drive on the street anymore, but I am talking about stripping it of all unneeded items to reduce weight, install a full roll cage, fuel safe fuel cell, etc. I would probably build to SCCA specs so it can be raced.

There are several items I would want to eliminate that are ECU controlled or monitored such as:

* PSM (but maybe not ABS)

* the catalytic converters

* alarms, radio, airbags

and probably many other things I haven't thought of.

I can get a PST2 laptop clone for, say $1500 or so. I am wonderng if the PST2 will allow me to reprogram the existing unit to ignore these things, or if I would be better off, cost wise and from an elegance of solution perspective, to go with a completely different ECU package, such as Motec or something.

Thoughts?

Hello Eric, yes i've installed the BK deep sump, i also add a spacer for pick up the tube down as well as the sump.

in the photo you can see what happen during this left hard corner (it occur when i run over 100km/h at the end of the corner, consider that i use Toyo R888 and bilstein PSS9), the motor lose power and a lot of smoke for some seconds fortunately with no damage.

It happens only in this corner and in this circuit, in other circuits i've never occured in this, but this is my preferred circuit and i really like to solve this problem.

This is a limitation of the stock AOS on the track. For some reason, on the exit of left handers, when you stand on the throttle, it sucks in the oil. The Porsche Motorsports AOS will solve it.

You must be pretty experienced on the track. Haven't seen it happen except with drivers that have some experience and skill.

Many thanks Eric, tomorrow i will buy the motorsport AOS!!!! next month i will test on this track again and i'll report

this is the video of my last trackday, the last corner before the start/finish line is where i occur the problem in previous lap.

That fits - a left hander, after hard braking, then hard on the gas on exit -- and then a giant puff of smoke.

Mugello lloks like a good track for a 986. Nice driving.

Hello Eric, yes i've installed the BK deep sump, i also add a spacer for pick up the tube down as well as the sump.

in the photo you can see what happen during this left hard corner (it occur when i run over 100km/h at the end of the corner, consider that i use Toyo R888 and bilstein PSS9), the motor lose power and a lot of smoke for some seconds fortunately with no damage.

It happens only in this corner and in this circuit, in other circuits i've never occured in this, but this is my preferred circuit and i really like to solve this problem.

This is a limitation of the stock AOS on the track. For some reason, on the exit of left handers, when you stand on the throttle, it sucks in the oil. The Porsche Motorsports AOS will solve it.

You must be pretty experienced on the track. Haven't seen it happen except with drivers that have some experience and skill.

Hello Eric,

i have the same problem, do you have solved it whit this upgrade?

Yes - it solved the problem, for me and my buddy with the identical car. I installed it myself and wrote up a DIY you can find under 986 mods.

Have 2006 C4S Cab w/Ruf Kompressor. Go is good, whoa needs help. If I string together some really good laps I lose braking until the final inch of travel and then it's not at full stopping capability. Searched for brake related upgrades on this forum and would like to see if I can solicit feedback on experience with:

FLUID - MUST DO COMPLETE FLUSH AND REFILL

GS610

Castrol SRF

Any real difference?

DUCTS larger brake ducts

Will either Turbo brake ducts or GT3 brake duct spoilers fit a 997 S? One of them needs to be replaced, ok refitted, due to some unscheduled under body work from taking a previously uncharted path on & off the track so I'm doing this anyway.

"I just found a story that 997 GT-3 brake ducts fit on 997S cars with no modifications. They cost $30 from Suncoast. They also do not hang as low as other racing ducts."

Rubbing problems on street/driveways?

This is in Texas so the ducts are really moving already hot ambient air off the track surface over really hot brakes.

PADS

upgrade street to track? I will never do race.

Blue race pads allegedly half street/half track.

Who makes these?

Any recommendations on pads that still work well in daily use however bring the car's speed down faster would be great.

LINES

Stainless braided brake lines have been mentioned. Seems like overkill with new fluid, ducts, and pads.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of these I can address.

Pads: Once you get a bunch of experience under your belt, you will not find a single pad that will work for both street and track. MO, you will need a dedicated pad for the track. I trailer my track car, but I see many experienced guys drive to the track with a street pad, and change out at the beginning of the weekend and back at the end. Take a look at Pagid pads. I like Pagid Black and Pagid Yellow. If you are using street tires at the track, then you might want to try Orange too. Be sure you bed them properly or race pads will chunk. (I can explain, if needed, why street pads will never cut it on the track.)

Fluid: Definately flush your fluid. Not sure if there are any differences between SRF and GS. I use Ate - cheaper, but I do flush it twice a year, and bleed before every event. A couple of guys I know that use SRF flush at much longer intervals - year or more.

Ducts: I use GT3RS front ducts with no modifications on my 986S. My car is lowered, and I do not scrape. If I go agricultural while at the track, I have not lost them on the curbing. The ducts are much bigger than the stock ones. Clearly they push much more air through the wheel - the amount of dust collecting on the front wheels after installing these have been dramtically less. Can these go on a C4S?? Don't know - sorry. On my car, they simply attach to the leading transverse arm. Also, I live in SoFla - lots of hot air here too. Ducting will help, even in TX. You are heating the rotor to, in some cases, 900 or even a 1000 degrees. At those temps, 95 degrees is a cool breeze.

Stainless steel lines: I am still using my stock rubber lines. MO, the improvement is minimal unless your rubber lines are getting old and compliant.

I would recommend you flush the fluid and get a set of race pads (I recommend you call Craig at rennstore.com; he is very knowledgeable about pads). I think you will find the proper pad and new fluid will make a world of difference.

I plan on ordering a new AOS and replacing it and would like to know if I just need AOS and vent line hose or anything else like new O-rings? I asked sunset if they had the recommended lubrication "klube" but they said the techs just recommend spraying the o-rings with silicone lubricant. The reason I am doing this replacement before anyone asks, I have had some cold idling problems after start up I replaced the MAF and cleaned the throttle body. I read the forums and it sounds like the AOS needs replaced whenever you remove the oil cap and suction comes from oil filler tube, mine did bad and car almost died like a gasping for air sound. I have also been having really bad emission smell after startup that stinks up the garage for hours like carbon dioxide/gas smell, hope this hasn't effected the O2 sensors yet. Any recommedations? My Boxster is a 2000 2.7.

The Kluber Sytheso Glep is silicon grease and is applied to the O ring on the base of the AOS - and the O ring should come on the part. Spraying with a silicon lubricant should work or using any readily available silicon grease.

I replaced my AOS with a Porsche Motorsports AOS (track car) and I reused all the stock lines. I still have one of the lines I ordered in my parts bin, collecting dust.

Be sure you get the bottom rubber hose that has a spring clamp on it back on all the way. The other lines have fittings that engage nicely, and you can tell easily with an audible click if they are properly attached.

Hi guys,

Considering getting 6-point harnesses installed and came across some with decent price.

Has anyone had any experience with these G Force Harnesses?

Is there any significant difference between these and let us say Schroth?

All the best,

Gus

I use a G-force 5 point harness in my 986S track car with Sparco seats and HANS device. I see a lot of G force at the track. They are reputable. I've been happy with it.

Hello Eric, i see that you run on track, do you have starvation problems? i've installed the deep sump kit but i didn't solve the problem

I have not had any oil starvation problems... so, that means I really s*ck on the track :)

When you say deep sump, you mean the pan depth extender, like what BK sells, or a system like the Mantis Sport deal?

I have an X51 baffle, which I think makes a positive difference.

Oh sorry. Just saw you are in Italy. In case these companies are not familiar to you - BK is Brey Krause - you will see what they have online at bkauto.com and Mantis is a canadian speed shop that has developed sumps for the Cayman that are longer that the factory ones.

Hi guys,

Considering getting 6-point harnesses installed and came across some with decent price.

Has anyone had any experience with these G Force Harnesses?

Is there any significant difference between these and let us say Schroth?

All the best,

Gus

I use a G-force 5 point harness in my 986S track car with Sparco seats and HANS device. I see a lot of G force at the track. They are reputable. I've been happy with it.

Hello Eric, i see that you run on track, do you have starvation problems? i've installed the deep sump kit but i didn't solve the problem

I have not had any oil starvation problems... so, that means I really s*ck on the track :)

When you say deep sump, you mean the pan depth extender, like what BK sells, or a system like the Mantis Sport deal?

I have an X51 baffle, which I think makes a positive difference.

Hope you are right. Just saw a post on another forum and the AOS is exactly what several folks there said happened to them. There were photos of how to check for more than just a light film and how to replace the AOS. I can check that out tomorrow and probably do the work myself upon confirming and getting the parts. Thank you for the opinion, I am inclined to agree since there was smooth running up until the heaviest smoke.

Octantman:

What you have described here are the classic signs of a faulty AOS. The only thing you haven't done is to check for excessive pressure at the oil fill cap which, if the AOS is shot, will be so strong that it will be difficult to actually unscrew and pull off the cap.

However, since you are getting liquid oil dripping out of the exhaust, you have got to be careful not to run the engine because you run the risk of "hydrolock", which could cause major engine damage. This can occur when oil gets sucked into the combustion chamber and the pistons try to compress the oil.

Pull off the air intake where it connects to the throttle body and if you see some oil pooled on the bottom of the throttle body, you don't have to look any further. Replace the AOS.

Go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages and you will find a nice photo of the kind of smoke you can expect to see when an AOS goes bad, and some good DIY information, here: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice and ericinboca:

Thank you for the advice, it encouraged me to do this myself.

I have the AOS off, and the throttle body and two ducts between the intake manifolds. This item is different, for sure. Did NOT need to jack the car up. I'll post photos and a little of my experience tomorrow, but meanwhile here is the part number for a 2006 Boxster 2.7:

996.107.026.00

No bellows. Rubber "L" tube out the bottom fits into side of engine. Short angled tube fits straight down into the engine. Two machine screws hold the unit to the base. Y tube fots onto side and that into the throttle body.

Oil everywhere. I took everything on top off and cleaned well, except the intake manifolds, but I put shop rags on a wire and got a lot of oil out. Hopefully only a small amount left. The car ran less than a minute after the thich white smoke started so I probably am OK. Only faults were misfires in 3 cylinders. There was more oil on the 4-6 side so that makes sense that fault was 2, 4, 5.

I am not even a weekend mechanic but it was not a big deal since the posts and photos were good enough to allow me to anticipate the steps. Just tedious and to save $600 or more I don't mind tedious.

Thanks again,

Alan.

Excellent - good news.

I would start with the AOS as members Maurice and ericinboca suggest.

Agreed on all points, pooling oil in the y tube. The bottom of my AOS has a tube coming down and turning into the side of the engine. I cannot see 2 bolts holding the AOS to the engine. Will this be easier than the procedure you reference? I looked at it and the unit is different. The round top of the AOS is oriented vertically and the tube to the throttle body is not long, maybe 4" and flex tubing.

I'll order the parts and will be able to tell by the new what I will be up against.

Thanks guys, you are right on the money.

Replacing it is not too hard - awkward, but not too bad. I replaced my stock AOS in my track dedicated 986S with a Porsche Motorsports AOS; you can see my DIY in the 986 mods section. You will not have to do all that I did with the motorsports AOS, but you can get the idea of how to get the thing out and how to put a new one back in. Be sure you get the tube on the bottom back on secure.

I believe this is serious.

I (hopefully) attached the Durametric work log. VehicleLog3132009.txt

2003 Boxster, 2.7 five speed manual about 65k miles, daily driver.

Home as usual, no sign of a problem. Back to the store 30 minutes later, only a mile but it is raining and 40 degrees. Out of the driveway a little white smoke, but sometimes this happens, unburned fuel. By the time we got to the store, more smoke so this is different.

Started right up, idled smothly but more smoke, worse when we got home. Flashing CEL 100' from home, by the time we got in the garage white smoke everywhere, very thick. Misfiring once in the garage idling and I turned it off. Oil dripped onto driveway. About a tablespoon under the exhaust pipes, coming out of both ports.

Durametric read fault codes as in topic, misfire detection total and cylinder 2, 4, 5. No other faults read, except it says my radio is faulty, which it is not

So what is worst case and best case?

I have complained to the dealer for years about a vibration at 3,000 rpms without impact. They say it's no problem and maybe it is not related, but I am not convinced.

Help!!

Alan

Are you down on coolant? What does your oil on the dipstick look like? Oil or a chocolate milkshake?

not down on coolant, oil is slightly darker than new, not frothy.

Hmm. In my experience, white smoke is coolant being burned. The oil on the floor in the garage was from the exhaust? not from the area where the transmission connects to the engine? or can you see where it is coming from?

Correct, in fact it collected in the exhaust tip and dripped out on the front of the tip since it is sloped toward the front, or muffler. Smoke could have been slightly gray but in the mirror it was very white. I turned it off and it began to dissipate and its appearance was hard to say what color it was then. Now the engine ran not more than 5 minutes total for both trips.

We need some more people to express an opinion, but I would look inside the air intake distributors for a film (possible heavy film) of oil. If you find oil in there, your AOS (the AOS on top of the engine, not the one in the pan) probably let go. The AOS is supposed to send vaporized oil into the intake to be burned in the cylinders. When it is malfunctioning, it can send liquid oil, which, in enough quantity, can cause a misfire - especially for cylinders 4, 5 & 6...your misfire in cylinder 2 does not match this theory perfectly, but doesn't spoil it either.

If you don't find anything there, I would do a pressure test on the coolant system to see if it is leaking. And then compression test the cylinders. I might also drain the oil and take a hard look at it (maybe even send off for analysis - Blackstone Labs does the oil on my track car) to be sure there is no coolant in it.

I have a 99 totally stock C2 cab which has been great for the last 4 years - now has 75K miles. Attended 3 DEs last year and got hooked. noticing the lack of cabs at these events and always loving the look of widebody coupes, I've become infatuated with the idea of buying an 996 C4S coupe. found what appears to be a very good, low mileage (25K) example at a very attractive price. If I pull the trigger on the deal, I'm sure I'll have buyer's remorse for a while (I usually do) but I always get over it. But, in this instance, I'm also concerned I'll miss the cab (already tried to talk my wife into both, no chance). Anyone have an opinion... should I forget the coupe and keep the cab?

seriously, I'd appreciate any advice about the C4S as a track car. Seems the AWD is designed more for handling than wet/snow traction, but obviously has weight implications. Thoughts?

Coupe is stiffer and safer for the track.

I think the 4S allows you to get on the power much quicker and harder on exit than the 2.

I believe this is serious.

I (hopefully) attached the Durametric work log. VehicleLog3132009.txt

2003 Boxster, 2.7 five speed manual about 65k miles, daily driver.

Home as usual, no sign of a problem. Back to the store 30 minutes later, only a mile but it is raining and 40 degrees. Out of the driveway a little white smoke, but sometimes this happens, unburned fuel. By the time we got to the store, more smoke so this is different.

Started right up, idled smothly but more smoke, worse when we got home. Flashing CEL 100' from home, by the time we got in the garage white smoke everywhere, very thick. Misfiring once in the garage idling and I turned it off. Oil dripped onto driveway. About a tablespoon under the exhaust pipes, coming out of both ports.

Durametric read fault codes as in topic, misfire detection total and cylinder 2, 4, 5. No other faults read, except it says my radio is faulty, which it is not

So what is worst case and best case?

I have complained to the dealer for years about a vibration at 3,000 rpms without impact. They say it's no problem and maybe it is not related, but I am not convinced.

Help!!

Alan

Are you down on coolant? What does your oil on the dipstick look like? Oil or a chocolate milkshake?

not down on coolant, oil is slightly darker than new, not frothy.

Hmm. In my experience, white smoke is coolant being burned. The oil on the floor in the garage was from the exhaust? not from the area where the transmission connects to the engine? or can you see where it is coming from?

I believe this is serious.

I (hopefully) attached the Durametric work log. VehicleLog3132009.txt

2003 Boxster, 2.7 five speed manual about 65k miles, daily driver.

Home as usual, no sign of a problem. Back to the store 30 minutes later, only a mile but it is raining and 40 degrees. Out of the driveway a little white smoke, but sometimes this happens, unburned fuel. By the time we got to the store, more smoke so this is different.

Started right up, idled smothly but more smoke, worse when we got home. Flashing CEL 100' from home, by the time we got in the garage white smoke everywhere, very thick. Misfiring once in the garage idling and I turned it off. Oil dripped onto driveway. About a tablespoon under the exhaust pipes, coming out of both ports.

Durametric read fault codes as in topic, misfire detection total and cylinder 2, 4, 5. No other faults read, except it says my radio is faulty, which it is not

So what is worst case and best case?

I have complained to the dealer for years about a vibration at 3,000 rpms without impact. They say it's no problem and maybe it is not related, but I am not convinced.

Help!!

Alan

Are you down on coolant? What does your oil on the dipstick look like? Oil or a chocolate milkshake?

GUess I will be towing the car to the dealer.

It will not start at all now. I have tried bypassing the clutch switch. I have checked to make certain the ignition switch was pressed on good. The battery is good, I put a charger on it to make certain.

I did notice something strange though. Whenever I press the brake pedal, the dash lights and a/c lights die instantly. Same thing with putting the car in to Reverse. As soon as I take it out of reverse or let up on the brake pedal, the lights come back on. parking brake doesn't effect it.

any last thoughts before I take the plunge at the dealer...?

Wow - wish i knew for sure. But weird electrical issues make me think of a bad ground - if it were mine, I would look at the ground points. Unfortunately, I am not sure if one shares elments of each of your issues, and there are something like 14 ground points. I would start, though, with the ones on the front support frame and then number 8, which is in the rear near the ECU. This is, admittedly, something of a stab in the dark.

All done. Next up is a 996 GT3 which is in another thread. Hope you guys enjoyed!

On this model, was the fuse box mounted on the left in the driver's footwell in the way of the downtube?

Just wanted to give a great thanks to Sunset Imports, and inform some people of a few great prices!

I needed some replacement parts for my 00' Boxster S, and I couldn't find anywhere else to beat the prices.

I got a brand new HVAC Control Unit (my old one's digital readout screen was almost dead) - $241.00

The Plastic trim piece that covers the Security Alarm blinking LED light - $20

The driver's side triangle plastic trim piece that houses the side mirror controls - $18

10 quarts of Mobil Synthetic 0W-40 - $5.00 a quart!!! That was WAY cheaper than my local autozone or pepboys around here.

And of course the filter and o-ring - I can't remember what the filter cost, but the little metal o-ring was $0.47. :)

I ordered a bunch of door paneling replacement clips as well... I think I got 2 bags of 10 for about $2.48 as well.

Also curious... Anyone know the part # and how much the pull-arms for the front and rear hoods are (just the silver pull-arms, don't need new springs or anything). Mine are all scratched up.

Kudos

Do you mean the hinges? The thing that attaches to the body and the lid, and to which the gas pressure spring is attached?

If so, for the front:

996 511 151 01 (left)

996 511 152 01 (right)

Rear:

986 512 151 01 (left)

986 512 152 01 (right)

I mean the actual "silver levers" that you "pull upwards located on the driver's side that release the hood and the rear luggage compartment. Mine are all scratched up from shoes hitting them, and some of the paint is chipped off.... looks crappy which is why I want to replace them.

Ah - I wasn't even close.

I found these for '00:

996 551 511 03 handle lacquered /LLV00

996 551 511 03 v01 silver

996 551 512 03 handle lacquered /LLH00

996 551 512 03 v01 silver

996 551 511 04 handle lacquered /RLV00

996 551 511 04 v01 silver

996 551 512 04 handle lacquered /RLH00

996 551 512 04 v01 silver

I'm not sure I know what all this means, but I would think it is the "04" silver ones. Not sure if I am helping much. Sorry. Maybe someone else can decipher the part numbers.