ericinboca

Just wanted to give a great thanks to Sunset Imports, and inform some people of a few great prices!

I needed some replacement parts for my 00' Boxster S, and I couldn't find anywhere else to beat the prices.

I got a brand new HVAC Control Unit (my old one's digital readout screen was almost dead) - $241.00

The Plastic trim piece that covers the Security Alarm blinking LED light - $20

The driver's side triangle plastic trim piece that houses the side mirror controls - $18

10 quarts of Mobil Synthetic 0W-40 - $5.00 a quart!!! That was WAY cheaper than my local autozone or pepboys around here.

And of course the filter and o-ring - I can't remember what the filter cost, but the little metal o-ring was $0.47. :)

I ordered a bunch of door paneling replacement clips as well... I think I got 2 bags of 10 for about $2.48 as well.

Also curious... Anyone know the part # and how much the pull-arms for the front and rear hoods are (just the silver pull-arms, don't need new springs or anything). Mine are all scratched up.

Kudos

Do you mean the hinges? The thing that attaches to the body and the lid, and to which the gas pressure spring is attached?

If so, for the front:

996 511 151 01 (left)

996 511 152 01 (right)

Rear:

986 512 151 01 (left)

986 512 152 01 (right)

I know it sounds crazy seeing as the cars are not that old but here me out. Several times when I have taken my 2000 996 to the dealer for repairs they put me into a Cayman. Of course it is a new car and in great condition. However, driving it just seems so much more solid than my car. I do have very few little squeaks but nothing major. It just seems that my car slams over moderate bumps whereas the Cayman goes "bump" with a muted thud sound. I can't imagine that there is that much sound deading in the new car that makes this difference. Of course I have 18" wheels while the Cayman had 17". Is this strictly attributed to new suspension? I am currently investigating replacing my stock old shocks (110k miles) with either new Bilstein HD or PSS9. It is apparent to me that a car can have good suspension response (meaning absorb the bump and not slam in the car) and still provide responsive driving (again consider the Cayman). Besides supension I am considering adding Dynamat or sound deadening to make the daily drive less instrusive (I don't track the car so not concerned about a little weight gain, the car that is)(mine is a Tiptronic by the way). I guess there are many other bushing that will give over time.

Thoughts anyone?

So many things can affect the life expectancy of the coilovers. It is possible they could last more than 110K, but with 110K, it might be time for new ones.

The PSS9s are nice because you can adjust them to your liking, although getting to the selector means you need to either raise the car or lay on the ground to reach them. But, if you spend some time experimenting, you can dial it in the way you like it and then leave it.

I would look at the bushings, spherical bearings and the coilover mounts. All of these pieces have rubber in them that has a huge impact on how much road noise is transmitted into the car. The rubber can deteriorate over time.

Even with all new bits, a brand new car is still likely to be smoother and quieter. Just simple engineering advances and less fatigue and movement in the frame.

Top is not an issue. I just realized in all my panic of getting stranded, I forgot I had my red clip on so the top would not go up.

I have tried another key to make sure it wasn't a problem with the key loosing the programming or something of that nature. Still no change. Sometimes it will work fine, sometimes not.

Any thoughts? I really don't want to take it to the dealer but am not sure what else to check. I don't want to get stranded again.

Thanks Ryan

I'm not sure the 02 has the same set up under the dash as my 04 986S - but I had a wierd won't start experience once. I would get some dash lights and some power options worked, but not all, and I had no crank. I check everything, and was about to give up, when I found that the harness that plugs into the back of the key switch had come apart. I pushed these back together, and it started. Worth a look.

Hi guys,

Considering getting 6-point harnesses installed and came across some with decent price.

Has anyone had any experience with these G Force Harnesses?

Is there any significant difference between these and let us say Schroth?

All the best,

Gus

I use a G-force 5 point harness in my 986S track car with Sparco seats and a HANS device. I see a lot of G force at the track. They are reputable. I've been happy with it.

One more item on this. I do wish I hade gotten the option to tension the lap belt belt by pulling "in" versus pulling "out". Follow what I mean?? In my configuration, the buckles are in a slightly awkward place and it is hard to tighten by pulling the belt "out". I set them where I want them, and the Sparco seat is on sliders, so I buckle the lap, and then slide the seat forward to the proper tension, so it is no big deal.

Hi guys,

Considering getting 6-point harnesses installed and came across some with decent price.

Has anyone had any experience with these G Force Harnesses?

Is there any significant difference between these and let us say Schroth?

All the best,

Gus

I use a G-force 5 point harness in my 986S track car with Sparco seats and a HANS device. I see a lot of G force at the track. They are reputable. I've been happy with it.

I have a 2004 986S that I use as a dedicated track car. Thus far, I have only upgraded suspension bits.

I am considering stripping the car and installing a full cage at the end of this season. I am hesistant to make engine changes....but....I am interested in eliminating the catalytic converters.

I have been told the following and am looking for thoughts on these items:

* the catalytic converters integrated into the headers rob the 986 of power (Note on an 04, there is a primary set integrated into the headers, and a secondary set after - the primaries have the sensors, not the secondaries)

* you can reprogram the ECU using a PST2 to RoW, and eliminate the CATs, as the RoW configuration does not look for cats

* the s-car-go headers give good flow and good HP gains

I don't know if any of this is correct, and am looking to see what you guys know.

Also, it would appear that this would be a simple change - new headers and a ECU change - and it would not trigger wierdness elsewhere that would require endless tweaks. Naive thinking??

I like it. I'm thinking next year I will put a full cage in my track dedicated 986S. Are you going to reuse your stock dash or build up something new?

I think what you are saying is that the anti-squeal dampener is stuck in the caliper piston. Is that right?

If that is the case, don't worry about it, just leave it in there, collapse the piston in the caliper and install the new pad.

Unless you have boogered up the dampener, then there is really no difference between a new one and an old one.

When I do a 996 brake job, if the old anti-squeal dampeners are still good, I just reuse them.

This is no big deal.

I second this. I don't use the dampers front or back.

That's great but will they fit my 2006 Boxster S calliper? The damping pads have different size weights on the top/bottom. I'm sure the top and bottom pistons are the same size but the hollow which accommodates the damper is larger for the top weight. I see different size pistons on that site but there is no mention of the hollow dimensions.

The pistons are two different sizes - one larger, one smaller, of course. I'm not sure, but I think your pistons in an 06 are the same as the ones in my 04. I measured mine to figure out what size to get, but after doing that, I realized that the PET - at least for my model - had the size of the seals/boots listed - and that size corresponded to the piston size.

If you can't the thing out of the piston, you can order a single piston, along with seals and boots.

I was under the impression from the previous post that piston/seal sets aren't available?

You can get them. I just replaced all the pistons, bore seals and boots on my 986S track car. See the later post.

You can contact Stoptech to see if they'll sell you individual pistons/seals.

http://www.stoptech.com/

also here

http://www.paragon-products.com/Brembo_Cal..._Kits_s/538.htm

So what happened? I have exactly the same issue on my 987S. I've taken the piston out as I was planning to flush the fluid anyway, tried to drill out the screw in the middle so I can put another screw in (head was rounded) and blunted all of my drill bits getting about half way through the block. Even if I get through and manage to get a screw in there I don't think it's going anywhere.

About to go mad and I can't believe I need a whole new caliper, that seems extreme.

I can't believe a simple pad change has turned in to such a nightmare. What a stupid design. :angry:

If you can't the thing out of the piston, you can order a single piston, along with seals and boots.

Hi all, i'm new to all this including forums themselves!

Does anyone know of any manufacturers that make front brake pads for the Boxster S?

I've looked at Ferodo and EBC but the car is not listed.

Help would be appreciated.

Pagid is an excellent brand for Porsche.

Have you had it on the track since you added the aero front end? I'm curious to know if it has had any effect on the balance.

Regardless - it looks bada**.

Hi all,

I had a new set of front brakes put on 12 months/ 12,000 miles ago. Today I get the "brake wear" warning light, and checking the pads, they are indeed worn out.

My last set of pads - which were on the car when I bought it - lasted about 2 years, 30k+ miles. Car is never tracked, and if anything my driving style is gentler these days...

Pads were installed at the dealer, and I'm suspecting a bad installation... anybody have any idea what could have wrong?

I can't come up with a theory on how improper installation would cause the pads to wear prematurely. You either get them in, or you don't.

I'd check a couple of items.

1. I know you said your driving style is gentler than before. Be sure you are not unconciously riding the brake.

2. Did the dealer install a brand of pad that should get more longevity than you experienced? Not all pads last as long as others.

3. Are all the brake components working properly, allowing the pistons to easily return to the cylinders and not "sticking" - meaning they ride against the rotor some even after you release the pedal. Sticking pads could be due to something wrong in the lines, pistons, cylinders, master cylinder, the fluid, etc.

Did both sets of fronts wear out fast, all four corners wear out fast, or just one wheel?

Fixed - it was the CDI.

Thanks for the tip and for the diagnostic. It fired up the first time after install.

We took the module to ecudoctors.com

He repaired it for $220 and gave us a 5 year warranty.

We will see how it goes.

Hi

Is there someone who knows how to proceed to bypass the folding roof safety ?

I 'm knowing there is a special relay existing but very expensive...Nothing about a small tip ??? :P

Just to avoid an emergency stop when it's begin to rain.... B) B)

thanks

There is a plunger switch in the center console that is pressed shut when you raise the parking brake a few clicks. The switch has a two line wire that plugs into it. You could unplug that and jump it, but then your dash readout would say your parking brake is on all the time. I supposed you could rig something up with a different type of manual switch that you close when you want to open/close the top.

My car is a 97 2.5 with 84000 miles

Two questions.

Had this car for 3 years now. The braking has never been good and about 3000 miles ago i had new front discs and pads fitted. Cannot say it really helped. Yesterday I put my finger over the top of the disc to feel the amount of wear on the back of the disc, I expected the usual lip that you can catch with your nail but it is in fact nearly 1/2" wide. The pad has badly worn the inside part of the swept area and done almost nothing at the outside. I have 2 calipers my son bought with the intention of fitting to his old 911,

They are parts 986.351.421 and 422 so from a Boxster. I will get them rebuilt and fit them but any ideas for this unusual wear.

I also noticed that my rear wheels and tipping in at the top, don't remember seeing this before and it is quite pronounced, standard wheels and tyres.

Is this normal or does something need adjusting or replacing

Jim

Jim -

Hard to say without seeing it. I would want to be sure all the suspension components supporting the wheel carrier and hub, (as well as the hub) including the bearings, are in proper shape.

But, a first guess would be that the caliper pistons are not extending and retracting properly. The push out in a cocked fashion. That can be due to a worn out bore seal or from the piston being scored - possibly both. Could also be some sort of build up of crud in the cylinder.

You can rebuild the calipers you have with new pistons, bore seals and dust boots. It is not too hard. I just did this to my track 986S calipers. Was about $380 including a couple of liters of fluid.

You need to get the pistons out though, to be sure you order the right size bore seals and dust boots. The first bit of the piston is not the same size as the back part that is sealed by the bore seal.

You can take them apart and inspect and reinstall all if they are not bad, as long as you do not damage the bore seal when you remove. The seal and boots are not too expensive - the pistons are the bulk of the cost.

Job requires a very thorough brake bleeding - but I would flush if you are going to do this. (I also bead blasted my calipers and repainted while I had them off.)

I can give more details on how to do a rebuild if needed.

You didn't say if this was a track car. VERY often braking issues on a track car occur because of differnet levels of grip in the four corners, often due to using -- say a new tire on the left front, and on the right front, one with several heat cycles -- in this example, the left one will do more braking and wear those pads out faster. But the symptons you describe don't really match this.

Hi all,

Just came back from the alignment shop, they corrected the camber, but still my cars goes to the right, I was explained by them, that this couldn't be corrected, because of the outside wear of my front and back right tires.

Thinking of $, now that I'm hook to the DE. I just checked at bridgestone, for a Max Performance replacement tires for the rear and it goes for close to a thousand including mounting and insurance. Comparing slicks with the performance street tires, do they cost less?, will they last longer in the track?, can I use slicks only on the rear tires?, my car will keep the same height or it will lower more, that I need to see if it bottoms?, If my front tires are 225/40 ZR18 (18X8 wheels) & the rear are 285/30ZR18 (18X10 wheels), which will be the right size replacement in slicks?, what brand do you recommend?, tire pressure will be different than the street tires?. Sorry friends for all the questions, but I don't have any experience with slicks scratch_one-s_head.gif

Couple of semantics first just to be sure we are all talking about the same things. There are tires many people call slicks that are DOT legal R compounds. While they are legal to drive on the road, most only have two grooves to be DOT legal (and to satisfy some sanctioning body requirements that racers use DOT legal tires) and are not suitable for rain conditions. I've also heard them refered to as semi slicks, cheaters, R-compounds. Real race slicks have no grooves at all. The tires classified as competition/track on tire rack are DOT legal R compounds.

True race slicks and most R compounds not made for the rain, are not at all suitable in the wet. Liquids are not compressable like gasses, and you just ride right up on top of the water with no grooves and loose all contact. The two grooves in R compounds pretty much do nothing for wet.

And, as RFM notes, the manual says not to use slicks. Note, however, almost all the P cars I see at DEs use R compounds. I use an R compound on my track dedicated 986S. (And have a set of street tires on an extra set of wheels I use in the rain.)

Depending on the brand of R compound, you can probably get one for the same cost as a good street tire, but a slick is made of very soft rubber that, when hot, gives you more grip. So while the tire might cost the same, you will go through them much faster than street tires. Because of fast wear and the need to use them only when dry, you don't want these for everyday driving.

I tow my track car, but that's not practical for all. I have see many Porsches drive to the track towing small tire trailers - trailers specifically made to hold four track tires, and then then change them out when they get there. I've also seen some, who have short distances to drive to the track, show up with their R compounds already on.

I would not put slicks on the rear and streets on the front. The grip is going to be so different, you will have a lot of understeer.

On the size, the R compounds are sized the same way at street tires. Check 'em out on tire rack.

As for brands - everyone has their favorite. I use BF Goodrich G Force R-1s - they come as a stock size and are cheaper than some. The Michelin R compounds are very popular on the 996s I see. Hoosier enjoys the reputation for being the best - I don't know, never used them - wrong sizes for me. Kumho and Hankook are also popular and less expensive variations. Yokohama ADVAN R compound has some tread and I have seen a lotus run in the rain using those. I used them once - took a while for them to get hot.

For tire pressures, most makers of R compound will publish a hot pressure target range. I start many pounds below that range, and bleed after the first couple of sessions as necessary, and eventually get the right starting pressure to have the optimal hot pressure in a session.

I wouldn't be too quick to go to R compounds. You will learn more car control with street tires in the beginning. And the street tires can help you find the limits easier because they make noise - many R compounds do not squeal - they just let go when the limit is reached. When I go to a new track, I put on street tires to help me find the limits before swithcing over to R compounds.

The M030 suspension is a porsche suspension (i think made by Bilstein) so unless you buy it used, I think you would get it from a Porsche dealer.

My 986S came with the 030. It was good. I liked it a lot for street driving. I soon turned my car into a track car though, and moved on to a first generation of H&R sport coilovers, which seemed about 25 percent stiffer than the 030. Balance was great.

I now use PSS9 with springs a bit stiffer than what they come with. I got these to have some adjustability for the many different tracks I go to. These are good because you can dial in more and less stiffness, although the dial is located on the bottom and a little hard to get to for changes.

If you have a Bilstein dealer local, and the Porsche guys can't get the 030 for some reason, talk to the Bilsteon people about your options. They will have something comparable to stock all the way up to track coilovers.

You might want to take a look at your suspension bushings and mounts. If they are worn out, that can make for weird handling and extra noise. Look at the bushing where the control arms attached to the frame, and look at the mounts at the top of the coil overs. Check for cracked, dried out and missing chunks of rubber.

IMO and experiences....

Alignment settings depend on a lot of variables - the track configuration, the tire, your skill, ride height, stiffness, etc. The real way to determine proper track alignment is with tire temps if you are consistently turning hot laps and working the tires.

But, I think what they did is a very good place to start as a combination street and track alignment.

The extra negative camber will help keep the outside shoulders from wearing too fast; the slight toe-in in the rears will help keep the rear behind you where it belongs; and the toe-in in the front will keep the front end from wandering around on the straights.

Assuming this is one of your first DEs, go have fun, learn, and don't give the alignment a second thought.

Improved sways are a good choice for an upgrade, BTW.

Does anyone know where I can buy a clutch alignment tool for the '01 Boxster S . . . . I need to get one by this weekend and haven't had much luck finding one. Thanks in advance!

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ch++replacement

The tool is referenced in the document in this post, and I think you can get it through here - http://www.samstagsales.com/

We went through the diagnostic yesterday. Someone along the way in the life of this 911 has made some electrical changes, so I don't have a definitive answer. But we heard nothing out of the CDI module and did determine there is power to it. It goes for a bench test this week, and a likely rebuild. (We found a guy in FTL, FL that says he can rebuild for $220 with a 5 year warranty. Intersting -- we will see.)

I might be completely wrong, as I have not messed around with a Cayenne. But I think it is on the drivers side, behind the center console. I think you get to it from inside the cabin. Have you tried there?

I think the H&R stuff is pretty good. I had a set of first generation H&R sport coilovers - I liked them a whole lot - lowered the car 1, 1.5 and stiffened it up some. I only moved on from those to have adjustability for the track. Also like the H&R sway bars on my 986S.