cbonilla

Jus put to say that I will likely never delve so deeply into the internals of the engine in my 2003 986S. Yet I learned a lot from this thread and appreciate the time and energy that went into solving this problem.  Kudos 

Ok, off to my indie shop. I kno w the durametric cannot code for a child seat. Can it read the computer for a fault related to the child seat airbag disable?

Loren. I've had the bad buckle before so I'm familiar with that. Just curious as to if, in your experience, fully extending the passenger seat belt to activate the ALR mechanism does anything that could cause an airbag light to turn on. Thanks for your help.

carlos 

I have an airbag dectivation system installed in the passenger seat of my 986. Installed it with no problem, had the computer coded to recognize it. Tested it a number of timea, airbag light flashed on and off for 60 seconds just  as it should when the seat was present, and solid on when not present.

First time I actually went to use a child seat, however, I got an airbag fault. Before I had even connected the buckle. Could the ALR (Automatic Locking Restraint) be faulty and could that trigger an airbag light? Durametric can't see this circuit, so I need to go back to my indie shop which has a PST2. Scratching my head as it just seems too much of a coincidence that something which had been working fine ceased to work precisely at that moment.

*thanks

This for the idea, I may try that

Thanks Jeff. Just looked at the price of a dash swithc (~50 from Sunset) and decided that was too much

Are these switches (I'm referring to the ones on what I call the horseshoe, e.g., the lock button) momentary on/off or simple on/off devices? And if so which ones? I don't need a lighted switch. Looking to add an FM modulator (one that only is active when energized and only then kills the antenna signal ) to my 986 and would like to keep the look as stock as possible

Just to close the loop on this, the wiring harness worked and the engine is in the car

Thanks. I'll let you know if it was a success. I too dislike just throwing parts at a problem, but in this case ...

I have neither. My indie, a well respected shop, has a durametric and reported no faults when the scanned the alarm system. And it's the gove box not the center console.

I'll phrase my question sligthly differnently: IF (I know that's a big word) the problem was at the glove box door switch, would this be the right part to make it work normally again?

Durametric didn't show a fault code. But it chirps once on arming and opening the glove box doesn't trigger the alarm.

I have a 2003 986S with a minor alarm fault that I have identified as coming from the glove box. I get one chirp when setting the alarm and if I sit in the car with the alarm on and open the glove box the alarm doesn't trigger

is this the right part number to fix this:

996-622-501-00

Thank you

Don't buy into the song and dance about the IMS which says "if it's good at 30k it'll be good at 230k"  Ask me how I know

Too long a story to go into, but suffice it to say that my 2003 986S Tiptronic needs its engine wiring harness replaced. The part numer on that original wiring harness is

986 607 011 16

which has been superseded by xx18

I have access to a harness with a part number of xx14

Am I correct to assume that these are backwards compartible? What differences are there between the xx16 and xx14?

Thanks Carlos

I have a 2003 Boxster S that suffered a catastrophic engine failure at 105k miles. Lots of metal in the oil pan and filter. All signs are of an IMS bearing failure

My shop is willing to work with me on installing a used engine (if we can find one at a price that makes it all worthwhile).

But my shop (a well respected lcoal shop that does a lot of race prep in addition to service) feels that staying with an engine from a 2003 S will make that swap more straight forward. They also think that it should be an engine from a tiptronic.

Can you offer any insight on this? I know that I should go with an e-gas engine, so to me that says 2003 and later, but that about exhausts my knowledge

What differences are there between 2003 and 2004 or later engines? What difference does the tranny it wa mated with make? Are these significant and would they make the job harder?

To keep costs down I would even consider a 2.7, as they may be more common and cheaper. 

Would any thing other than an egine from a 2003 S Tiptronic require changing the car's electronics -- I know these are expensive parts so if we can use the ones now in the car it would probably help

Anything else I should be thinking of?

Just trying to figure out my options and costs. Rest assured that if we go this route it will get an upgraded IMS bearing before it gets installed.

Any idea on what I should expect to pay for compatible engines?

Thank you,

Carlos (who is not a very happy Porsche customer - this failure has left a sour taste in my mouth)

I agree. Auto Sport  Systems Group in Fairfax virginia where it's going once they open tomorrow. They work only on Porsches, do lot of track prep, and have done good work for me in the past. Still I'm quite depressed. And I just spent the morning washing and waxing it!

sigh

2003 Boxster S, tip , 105,000 miles

car had been driving great, no problems. All of a sudden it developed a loud metallic rattle, like a loose heat shield on steroids. Pulled over to find a place to park. Looked under the car, nothing visible. Started it again, no noise

drove home, about 4 miles. Rattle did not recur. When I pulled into my parking space I could detect a faint rattle. Shut the car off and restarted. No rattle. Got out and looked under the car to see oil gushing from the engine. Never threw a CEL light 

I fear that this may be the end of my Boxster. Anyone have a reason why I shouldn't despair?

oil was changed last summer (about 6k miles ago) by a good indie shop that looked at the filter   No debris seen then

getting it towed tomorrow to the shop that has worked on it 

carlos- who is not happy camper at the moment

Thank you. I'll order 

Loren -- I've seen your write up (below) on removing/installing a 996 glove compartment to replace the microswitch. I assume given the similarity of the cars that this will be the same procedure for a 2003, US spec 986S. Can you share the part number of the harness section that contains the microswitch?

Thanks. Carlos

Just what I was looking for. Many thanks. Other than the outer rim of my wheels they are in OK shape. But the outer rim is another story. Contrasted with how well the center sections have held up, I have to believe there was some deficiency in the original process used by BBS on the rims

Agreed -- simple and cheap fix

Solve it, and it was a minor problem. The piece that channels water from the roof and extends from the roof and clips onto the firewall had come loose and was sitting under the top

thanks anyway 

All of a sudden my top is not sitting flush with the body when the roof is open

The light goes out indicating that the car thinks the top is all the way down. The clamshell goes down evenly, not askew. The front is aligned correctly, but the back of the clamshell just sits proud of the bodywork by maybe 1/2". Enough that it's visibly not fully closed when seen in my rear view mirror. I cycled the top up (works fine) and down (same problem). Had someone try to help it down that last little bit, to no avail. No unusual noise when operating the top

Any thoughts on what's wrong and how to correct it. No recent work has been done on the top, but it is a milder version of what I saw when I had the immobilizer replaced (2 years ago for water intrusion) and the Porsche dealer failed to fit the top back on properly. 

Thanks, Carlos

2001 986S

Tiptonic

100k miles

Thanks, that helps a lot