scottiemac

Russell, I just looked at my cab as I thought I'd seen this before. The part shown in the pictures attaches to the body at the rear of the clamshell opening. If you open the clamshell and look dead centre there is a latch that holds the clamshell down at the rear. I think this little flap protects the canvas from getting caught up in the latch.

I cleaned it last year and it looked pretty good but maybe I'll take the throttle body off and clean all the bits seperately.

Thanks again Loren for all your help.

P1140 Load Sensing - Signal Implausible

Possible cause:

- Improper adjustment of operating cable for cruise control.

- Throttle position sensor.

- False air.

Loren, thanks for your prompt response. Any possibility this fault could be caused by the idle air control valve?

I've been having an intermittent issue with the idle hunting around. I've cleaned the valve but the issue persists - not all the time.

Ive searched and still confused as there is so much debate on this!

Anyways Im not seeing much of anyone else offering upgraded bearings for these cars? Is LN Engineering the only company that offers these or is there anyone else equilvlent if not better?

There has been a lengthy thread recently from a company named Casper Labs on their replacement bearing. Try seaching that name.

I was driving back to my office from a meeting and the CEL came on (first time in 4 - 1/2 years of ownership).

The car was driving OK so I drove it home and hooked up the code reader.

It showed only one code - P1140.

I've searched and come up blank as to what this means. Any info would be appreciated.

Car is a 99 Carrera Cab with Tiptronic.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Cheers

One thing I always do with ground straps is clean the fastener really well with a wire brush then brush on some conductive grease (I use metallic anti-seize) on the connections. It assures a good ground and stops corrosion from building up in the future.

Stig, what kind of a clunk were you experiencing? I've been chasing a noise in my front suspension for a while.

Mine usually happens when I back out of my driveway at an angle and one wheel drops down to the road before the other.

Sorry for the misinformation.

When I went through the process with the BMW they gave me a sheet of instructions that I had to follow to get the key and the car talking.

I think with the key you should be able to order one from a dealer if you have proof of ownership.

I did this recently with my BMW. I went away on holidays and my kids lost one of my keys.

I called the dealer, they had me fax my drivers license and ownership to them (plus my VISA info).

They got the key and I picked it up but I'm sure they would courier it to you.

I have a 99 Cab and the window was getting a bit cloudy in places. I went to the dealer and they have a plastic window cleaner that works really well. I think it was less than $15.

I'd be careful if I were you. The bearing supports the pulley and it is under load both when the A/C is on or off. If the bearing lets go there may be collateral damage to your compressor.

No personal experience but have heard some good things about GAHH.

http://www.gahh.com/index.php

No worries. I just used a little bit of oil from my oil can - basically motor oil. Emphasis in just putting a tiny bit on as it tends to get messy and I was worried about oil ending up on my convertible top.

Cheers

If it's what I think it is I had a similar problem with my cab. They come off quite easily as they are held in place by a plastic slide that hooks into two pins in the underside of the lid. I took both of them off and compared them side by side (they are mirror images).

The one that didn't work had a bend in the folding mechanism. I straightened it out with some visegrips and lubricated the hinge points. It's worked ever since.

Measure the length of the stock bolts and get bolts that are 14mm longer. Check here:

http://www.gmpperformance.com/index.cfm?PG=catList&cid=6149

If I'm not mistaken those look like stock C4S wheels and the tires are sizes that would be normal for winter tires on a 996.

The best thing you could do is post the wheel sizes (we can see that one is an 8JX18. Are they all the same?) and also the offset of the rims (50, 55, 60, 65 or whatever they are).

With the offsets people should be able to tell you a bit more.

The tires may not be worth much with one having a screw in it and one having that gouge out of the sidewall.

Cheers

Thanks Logray. The next time I do this job will be in the summer. With the temperatures where they were it was really difficult to push the weather shields back as the rubber was so stiff. Luckily this is an infrequent job.

Before Christmas I removed my mufflers to send them to FD for the by-pass mod. I got them back last week and have been waiting around for a nice day to do the work.

In the meantime I bought new plugs and got tubes just in case there were any leaks. When I got the plugs out and looked at the tubes and they were perfect. No leaks anywhere.

Coils were in perfect condition with no cracks. Plugs were worn but still useable after 43K miles.

Everything is buttoned back up now - fired right up after sitting for 2 months. It sounds great with the muffler mods.

An interesting task that challenges your manual dexterity - especially getting the wires snapped back on to the coils.

It was a nice sunny day in the great white north (+10C) and I installed my FD modified mufflers and started it up.

It sounds great. With all the negative comments I've heard about some aftermarket exhausts I was pleasantly surprised.

Best thing I've done to my car in the 4 years I've owned it.

Hi everyone

Lately my 2000 C4 has what seems to me, trouble starting. It just seems like the engine coughs to life after you stick the key in and turn it. It's not trouble starting like you need to crank it for a few seconds. It just seems to be that it should come to life faster and with more conviction.

I'm thinking I need to replace the plugs and will do that soon. It has 58,000 miles and so they are due for a change. After reading a bit here, I'm starting to think that maybe I need a new battery. It's probably 5 years old by now (its aftermarket). I see a post up above that the battery gauge in the car should read about 14 at idle. I'm at 12 - 12.5 at best. On starting, it drops to 10V or so.

So, I have 2 questions:

1. What is the preferred battery for this car. I'd rather not get a Porsche $$$ replacement battery

2. Do I need to take it to a shop for the load testing. Can't I just buy an ammeter and do it at home?

Thanks

To answer your second question, you need a special tool to do load testing on a battery. They disconnect the battery from the car loads, hook it up to the load tester and watch how it reacts to a high load. It doesn't take very long - a couple of minutes.

To your first question, your existing battery will likely have some markings on it indicating the group number (I think it is Group 48). I have a no name battery (literally no markings except somebody wrote a number on the side with a crayon) in my car that I've had now for 4 years. I keep it on a tender and monitor the levels in the cells and it has been OK so far. When I replace it I intend to get the biggest recessed post battery with the highest cold cranking amps that will fit in the tray. If you look at the battery tray in the car there are two mounting points and I want to get a battery that is longer than the OE one and fits in the larger of the two mounting points. Hope this helps.

Cheers

Cool. I've heard on these forums that these cars are very sensitive to battery charge. If I'm not going to use mine for a while I plug in the battery tender and it seems to work great. My 5 series BMW is similar.

Good luck with it.

My 99 Tip went into that mode a couple of years ago and the dealer said it was likely due to not keeping the battery fully charged. They reset it for free.

The same thing happened a while later and I plugged in my OBD tool, cancelled the fault, went right out and got a battery tender and it hasn't happened again.

Here's the link to the tutorial with pictures.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/68-tiptronic-transmission-service/

Mine does this every time I put the hardtop on (just put it back on yesterday). The passenger side rear window seems to catch on the weather stripping and won't come up. I just sit in the passenger seat and hold the weather stripping back while I activate the switch with my other hand.

Once it is up and sits for a while with the window in the channel it seems to work perfectly when I raise and lower it after that. There seems to be a little mis-alignment.

Good luck with it.

Cool. Glad it worked for you.

Cheers :thumbup:

I own a 1999 C2 cabriolet. The "bat-wing" flap underneath the cabriolet cowling on the passenger side does not raise up when in cab mode. I looked at both sides and cannot see any malfunction, distortion, or broken components in the flap. I know that you can remove these using the tab and pushing it toward the rear of the vehicle. Has anyone else experienced this and found a fix? TIA for any help. BTW, this is a great forum for those who love their P-CARS!!

I have a 99 C2 Cab as well and when I got the car the passenger side flap wasn't working properly. What I did is take them both off and compared them (even thought they are mirror images of each other).

I found that one of the metal components on the bad one was bent. I very carefully straightened it out using visegrip pliers and then gave them a bit of lubrication.

When I put them back in they worked perfectly and haven't given me any more trouble. I have no clue how it got bent.

Good luck with it.