gregtachyon

Has anyone tried the Softronic software flash on a stock 986?

I am wondering if there is any improvement in performance.

I know in a turbo car you can see a big performance gain but not so sure in a normally asperated engine.

White987S is correct. I do the same and never had flat spots.

My 2001 Boxster owners manual says not to lift the suspension off the ground. You are exposing shock rods etc. that normally isn't exposed and may cause corrosion on the exposed surfaces.

It is very easy to prevent flat-spotting. Just inflate tires to 58-60 PSI with good dry air (from a tire store vs the gas station). Then, every month, move the car (by hand) about 6-12 inches, and then back again the following month. Any flat spots in the Spring, will come right out within a few miles and a good heat cycle.

I have a 986 Boxster and the visors do not swivel plus they are lighted. My understanding is in order to remove them I would have to cut the wiring. Does anyone know if this is true?

I want to get rid of those warning labels real bad.

Probably not. take a look at the clips that hold the visor in. When they are removed, there is an electrical connector behind them that just unplugs. What year is your Boxster?

It is a 2001, I will check it out.

Thanks.

Ooops - I should of read all previous posts.

Sounds good thanks to all.

I have a 986 Boxster and the visors do not swivel plus they are lighted. My understanding is in order to remove them I would have to cut the wiring. Does anyone know if this is true?

I want to get rid of those warning labels real bad.

I would like to thank Brian for taking the time to post his FWL hack.

I contacted him with some questions about it and he graciously responded and decided to post it.

The people on this forum are great and thanks to Loren for providing the avenue for Porsche nuts to communicate.

The main thing with tire sizes is the tire diameter. If the difference is 5 percent or more you could have problems with the ABS, PSM.

This was taken off the PCA website:

In a previous response, you stated that "A 5% or more wheel speed difference will cause a fault in the [ABS/PSM] system."

My question: is there any loss in performance below 5% as you approach the 5% fault limit?

The performance of the ABS/PSM is at 100% up to 4%. At the 5% and above then it would not operate correctly. The initial percentage is an acceptable buffer zone for the system. This is for tire wear, manufacturing tolerances etc.

well i really like the look to foot-well lighting and it is dark down there, lol. anyway if someone has done this or has some direction to help, it would be appreciated. i have my lights (CCFL, input voltage of inverter 12v, output voltage of inverter 680v, current draw 5.0ma) hope that helps. let's just assume i have the switch and want to put it in the middle console like the wing switch mod.

thanks :renntech:

I am thinking of doing this mod on my Boxster.

Have you found anything out as of yet?

One other thing I forgot to mention - do not engage the parking brake.

acadian_dad I have been storing a number different of Porsches since 1981 and never had a problem with flat spots either -at times I couldn’t roll the car either.

But if I can I roll the car just for some reassurance – tires are expensive.

Here is an article where the guy use hockey pucks on the jack stands.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/b...box_jacking.htm

Below are some suggested jack points.

http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...F-AD549A03E5F0}

http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...C-C87679F55D82}

http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...4-FDCDEEFD6A1A}

http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...2-41A7456A6959}

Check out these tire cradles below.

http://www.tirecradle.com/

Hope this helps.

I had a discussion with local dealership in Ottawa - should I change oil in fall prior to storage - or - in spring prior to the new driving season ??? They recommended spring so any debris could work its way to the oil pan ... hmmm :unsure: Its gonna get pretty mixed up in the process of driving the car to the dealer for service / heating up the engine to change the oil warm ...

Seems to me with the DE miles I've put on, etc. that there could be lots of contaminants in the oil by the end of a season and better to change in the fall ...

There's probably lots of opinions on this on the forums, but wondering Loren, what the "official" line would be ?

thanks

Hi Acadian Dad,

I am in the Ottawa area as well and was wondering what I should do to prepare my car for winter?

If I change the oil in the Fall, are we to change again in the Spring as well?

Do you place any fuel stabilizer when storing?

Other?

Looking to store in the next couple of weeks.

Cheers,

Mike

Yes put stabilizer in it, I also inflate the tires to 55 PSI ( I believe that is the pressure ) I also push the car forward once a month and then back the following month so they will not flat spot.

If you have your owners manual look in it for a storage section - that is where I got the info to inflate the tires to 55 PSI.

According to my manual Porsche doesn't recommend lifting the suspension off the ground - something about extending the shocks and exposing the rods of the shocks and possibly causing corrosion to them.

I wash and wax it, clean interior, treat leather, etc. and I put rodent poison in the front, rear trunks and the interior of the car. I prop the wipers away from the windshield with some cardboard. I remove the battery and store it in my basement but prior to removing the battery I make sure I do not need to get in the rear trunk or interior. I leave the front trunk cracked open to the safety latch so I won't have to hook a 12 volt supply to get into it after removing the battery. I do not open the doors anymore after that - I would not like opening them without the window going down that 1/4 inch to clear the window molding. I stuff a rag in the exhaust outlet and then cover.

I do not change the oil again in the spring - I run it.

I had a discussion with local dealership in Ottawa - should I change oil in fall prior to storage - or - in spring prior to the new driving season ??? They recommended spring so any debris could work its way to the oil pan ... hmmm :unsure: Its gonna get pretty mixed up in the process of driving the car to the dealer for service / heating up the engine to change the oil warm ...

Seems to me with the DE miles I've put on, etc. that there could be lots of contaminants in the oil by the end of a season and better to change in the fall ...

There's probably lots of opinions on this on the forums, but wondering Loren, what the "official" line would be ?

thanks

I have read that it's not good to leave the old oil in the car prior to storage because of the dirty deposits in the oil.

I store a motorcycle and change all oils in it prior to storage also.

Heck I even change the oil in my riding lawnmower prior to putting it away for the winter. In fact the owners manual says to do so.

What Mobil 1 grade I should use? Also, I'll be changing motor oil in my garage the same day I will wintherise my car for the nest 6 months. Is it better to add new oil and not start the engine or better to start engine for couple of minutes to lubricate it with new oil?

Thanks for your help.

I use 0W-40 Mobil 1.

Here is a tech article link to help you out. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/b..._oil_change.htm

I back my car up a set of ramps rather than jacking it up.

I store my car in the winter also ( I live in Michigan ) and I start it after the oil change - by doing so you will get the oil through out the system including the oil filter.

Pelican Parts is where I bought mine.

Part #000-721-920-40-OEM

Vinylex for all but leather and Lexol for leather. I've been using these products for many years and have been very satisfied.

donlycan

+1 for the Lexol and Vinylex - I have been using them for years.

As far as the top (this is the first rag top I have owned) I bought Groit's Garage interior cleaner, water & stain protector and their brush for rag tops and have been satified with the results.

I just cleaned and sprayed the top the other day.

The biggest job was masking off the surrounding areas to keep the overspray off the car.

Greg M

Been following this post - I have a 2001 Boxster with a little over 17,000 miles on it.

I bought it a little over 2 years ago CPO from a dealer.

It's out of warranty now and this whole thing has me concerned.

I have owned 4 other Porsches over the years and never had any serious problems with any of them.

I would hope that if it happened to me that Porsche would help out in some way since it was a certified pre-owned car.

But judging by some of the post here I would not hold my breath.

Greg M