ssp996

Came back from dealer yesterday, they couldn't reproduce. Ran fine yesterday. Stranded today. Fired up this morning, went to son's soccer game and then wouldn't fire again. Found TSB on "difficulty fueling" or "running out of fuel" on rennlist. It recommends tie straps on the flexible fuel hoses in the fuel tank. But I called the Indy instead and he thinks its a bad crank sensor. Any ideas. When I first turn the key to the 1st position, I hear the pump priming.

Fuel reserve light had just turned on. Usually have another 30 miles when it lights up. AAA added 2 gallons just in case but still, engine wouldn't stay on. Dealer just called and they can't reproduce. they said its maybe the fuel relay but unsure. It started right up for them this AM. They are going to drive it more and report. any test they can do to fuel pump?

It cranks and fires up roughly for a second or so and stalls. any clues? fuel pump, MAF, coils? It ran very well on the way to do errands. Got back on car after 5 minute stop and wouldn't fire up as described. on flatbed to dealer

My original Moll battery on my 01 996 lasted 9yrs. Just replaced in April. Car is daily driver Mon-Fri. If car sits unused for extended periods of time, the batteries will drain and not fully recharge, even on extended drives. Also, I have read somewhere that if you don't lock the car doors routinely, there is more electrical drain that occurs than if car is fully locked. Don't know how true this is

This morning on my way to grocery store, smelled something unusual and I looked on rear view mirror and saw a small vapor-like plume of smoke rising through the vents of the spoiler. Looked at the temp gauge and it seemed that it was hotter than usual for just being 2 miles from my house. decided to drive back home and call a flatbed. when I got home, the car was kind of hot, beyond the usual middle of the gauge, but no red blinking light, and the car was still running fine. towed to dealership and they have had it all day. they can't reproduce or see any leaks or loss of coolant pressure. they will call me later after they test again. I thought initially that the water pump may be failing since its the original on a 116k mile'01 911. kind of perplexed. any clues from the forum? thanks

Is there an upgrade available from Porsche for the Ims bolt and cap, (not the bearing), and does it help reinforce ims?

the horn sounds anemic, like its half blown. any ideas, or how easy to replace or fix. '01 996 c2 manual

Michelin pilot sport2, non N. I get 27k on the rear consistently. Just got 3rd pair, car now has 112k. mine is an '01, so its the 265x35x18. newer 996 use wider rear tire which i dont know how the PS2 michelin will perform on mileage. the N tire last a lot less.

Once the tranny is out, they can check how much wear there is on the clutch plate. Have them measure it and then decide. My clutch is still the original at 108k.

noticed big puddle in front this morning. I used the wiper fluid wash for the litronics last night. while driving. Noticed big puddle in garage this morning. Filled tank again and its leaking near where front center radiator would be. turned lights on and turned spray on again, and the leak is more exagerated. Any hints as to what could be? Broken hose? Fix?

6 speed

M030 euro sports suspension kit -part number for an '01 996 C2 coupe?

Just figured out that all of these brackets are interchangeable, that being the reason why they have 2 nuts, one in front and back. So by moving this bracket to the opposite side and across, the nut that is used is still ok for part D to fit over it and be bolted on. But it also means that I will be able to use it only on that side. Did call sunset and they said they can order all four brackets, and I would then buy one from them. Part # is 996 801 509 00 at $43 each. thanks anyways loren

B

Loren, its not on that diagram, because its not on the car itself. The bracket i'm describing came with the Porsche roof rack. It is a metal rectangular bracket that one must first screw/attach the the roof of the car (by opening that little door on the roof). There are 4 of them, specific for each corner. One then proceeds to attach/screw the roof rack itself, to it. The bracket has a screw that goes on the roof, and also has 2 nuts that receive the roof rack's bolt.

Thanks

Left rear Porsche roof rack bracket is stripped. Wondering if its sold separately. Its the bracket that attaches to the roof. It bolts to the roof fine, but the receiver bolt for the roof rack itself is stripped. Many thanks.

Its a 01 996 coupe BTW

disconnected? found diy here but does not mention main battery disconnect. probably a good idea, eh?

Did noticed moisture on rim of tank. Cap ended in 01 even though tank and cap replaced in 07. Bought new cap yesterday (ending in '03). It sure does seem to lock a lot better. Hopefully this will do it. Many thanks to all.

'01 996 96k miles. Topped off coolant 2 weeks ago. Noticed this AM that level is way under min. level. No noticeable coolant leaks anywhere, car runs great. Had coolant tank replaced 1 year ago or so by dealer. Had 90k service done 1 month ago, no issues noted. Any cues as explain loss of coolant?

It may be the city light that is different. The litronics have a city light that turns on with the parking lights and with the actual headlights. If the bulbs are different, they may change the surrounding hue. Its my best guess. Turn the parking lights on and look at the front headlights. The city lights should be on and may look different to one another.

Does not feel warm, so probably does not work. Is defective or a blown fuse or something else? It's rarely used

On the issue of gunk getting into the system because of low fuel, I would challenge that if gunk was there it would be sucked up anyways no matter how full or empty the tank is. My reasoning being that gunk particles are heavier than fuel and would precipitate to the bottom anyways. The fuel is picked-up from the bottom ( I assume) unless it is skimmed from the surface, (which I doubt). So, empty or not, any gunk or whatever would exist on the bottom. I tend to agree with Loren, that the initial poster's issue is more of re-trainning of the computer than anything else, maybe air in the lines, or a blown pump due to overheating. Not an engineer, just an opinionated sob!

Did anyone read an article a few months back in C & D magazine where they compared braking distances and fade resistance of many different cars including a base 997, a 997S, and 997 with the PCCB. They couldn't make even the base 997 fade as I recall. And the PCCB were not that much better considering the costs. Worth a read

How about the Porsche RS Spyder?

No slots or cross-drilling.

How does slotting or cross-drilling affect integrity of those rotors? Maybe in the next decade, those 2 GM engineers will write another white-paper on them... if GM is still around by that time...

///Michael

I read somewhere that the PSE valve is also spring-loaded which is what keeps the valve in the default open mode unless the switch is activated which in turn uses vaccum to force it closed.. On mine, if I want to start on quiet mode, I can activate the dash switch before I crank the engine. It will have enough vaccum reserve to do that. I can even hear the valves move.