bigmsm

Thanks! I had resigned myself to struggling with the other oetiker-like clamp and removing the hose.  I have a piece of hose I can extend it with to hopefully, spray down the driveway.

After removing the airbox, I noticed the coolant line connector to AOS hose broke and will be replacing with aluminum connector.  My concern is pieces of the old plastic connector dropped in the hose and I would like to flush it before reconnecting. Can I start the car to run coolant out of flush the disconnected hose?  Sorry I don't know enough to describe the hose better so here's a pic!

Hi all, 2016 Macan S has a problem with passenger window.  None of the buttons work (window, unlock, set position) nor does the courtesy light.  Fuses are fine since I can operate the window from the drivers side button (I checked the fuses anyway).  I'm thinking there's some module that controls power inside the door but not sure if it's the through the door switch module itself, the window control module (4HO-959-792-S), or something else and I would like to have the correct replacement on hand if I'm going to open the door panel. Appreciate any suggestions. 

Pads, rotors and fluid, Done!  Decided to skip replacing the lines after encountering some difficulity with the first nut.  Didn't want to push it so I'll will wait for next pad change.  Appreciate the Board's help.  Now I need to decide on the next project!!

Thanks guys.  I've booked the project for next weekend!

Thanks JFP.  That's exactly the missing info I needed.  To change the lines at the other connection (where hard line meets soft), it would seem I will need plugs as well for the hard line, correct?

Hi all,

Attempting my first brake pad, lines & rotor replacement.  Hoping I could outline the main steps I plan to follow for comment (inlcuding laughs). Since I'm replacing lines with steel braided lines, thought this way may make sense:

Jack/remove tires

Cut soft line to front driver caliper and drain fluid

Remove clip and pads

Remove hard line from chasis connection and completely remove caliper

Remove rotor

Replace dampers and connect steel line to caliper (easier at the workbench)

Replace rotor, caliper, connect hard line at chasis connection

Add pads, clips

Rinse, repeat and bleed

Since car is old (2001 C4) and it's been a while, thought it would be easier to remove line at chasis and connect braided line at my workbench.  Am i totally off base with this approach?

Thanks for the help!

Hi, I had to replace one condenser on my '01 996 and planned to recharge the system myself.  I've added refrigerant to other cars but always to top-off.  Never recharged an empty system.  I assume disconnecting the condenser allowed air into the system. Is there a bleed procedure required to remove prior to recharge or is this best handled by a pro?  Thanks,

Michael

Thanks JFP.  Had pump, thermo and tank replaced (all OEM) and car is running hotter than normal.  Averaging gauge, probably around 210 when it used to run 190-195.  Mechanic said to monitor it but "they have noticed new water pumps and thermostats running a bit hotter".

Anyone else notice that?

 

OK - Found the "leak"! - Only its not a leak.  Its not coolant, its pure water coming from A/C out a drain duct between two black plastic pipes about under the passenger seat - duh! Used the new Stant 12270 and pressure sat at 19 psi for 3 minutes or so (dropped a teeny bit over 3 minutes --> one quarter of the width of the 9 font in 19 psi label.)  Does that count as holding sufficient pressure? I got the VW adapter for the Stant, but I think I need something else to test the cap, but if I just replaced it with new OEM part 4 months ago I am doubting that is worth testing? Does that sound right or should I still get the part and test the new cap? I have pretty much dismissed lack of pressure as my issue. Reputable dealer did the coolant flush so I assume got the air out, but now kind of wish I got a vacuum tool.  So next I went to rule out dirty radiators as the issue.  I had already vacuumed the a/c condensers and the edges of the radiator through the bumper ducts and they looked good, but based on advice from this forum I removed the bumper to get behind the A?C condensers and HOLY MOSES there was a lot of dirt, former shrubbery, seeds and sand.  Bought a air compressor from Harbor Freight to blow crap from back to front. Then decided I needed to blast from behind the radiator (covered condenser) and removed the radiator brackets and fans, and removed a small beach of sand from the radiators ( I drive along the coast everyday). It might be a little better but coming to work today I was at 100c-103c the last 30 min of the drive and it was only 70 f ambient so I don't think I have solved my problem.  Low fans are late to kick in at over 100 without AC on. High fans kick in at 102-4c and they do drop the temp back to 100c-102c.    So next step sounds like going after the water pump and thermostat?  Do you agree this is worth chasing down? I am afraid that if I can hit 107c in 80f ambient, then 90f with AC has gotta get me to even higher levels. Many thanks for the input.  

 

Normally, we let pressure tests sit for at least 15 to 30 min. to see if they hold pressure.  From your test description, you are probably fine.

 

Not surprised you found enough stuff in the radiators for your own National Geographic special; that is a common thing with these cars.

 

I don't remember how many miles are on the car, but the water pumps in these vehicles should be considered a maintenance item that needs to be periodically replaced.

 

I'm installing my 3rd pump and 2nd tank in a bit over 4 years. How often should "periodic" be?

Just to add a thumbs up to a vendor, I exchanged my cylinders for rebuilt's through Cabriolet Hydraulics.  $450 for both; came with detailed removal and install instructions, very well packaged including a bottle of hydraulic fluid. Zig (owner) was readily available for any questions.

For those interested, a PAC formed to try and eliminate the ethanol mandates.  Since the government is now considering increasing the level, might be a good time to act. (I have no association with the group; just own a 996!).  http://smarterfuelfuture.org/

The "chrome" on my 2001 C4 wheels started flaking off and got much worse with each wash. I tried some cheap do-it-yourself fixes and messed them up even more so finally went to Turbax in Miami to have them painted. Not a major fan of the blacked out look but it was the best option for easy touch-ups. Service was fantastic. Attention to detail and constant updates. They smoothed all the rashes and solved a slight bent issue. To overcome the blackout look, I followed the DIY to paint the wheel centers. Next up will be the calipers!

Michael

(first post so I probably screwed up the picture attachment!)