orangem

thanks! I think you are right. The black plastic is soft and feels like some silicone. I figure if the IMS bearing seal disintegrating, the seal got to be a hard plastic seal... sigh of relief.....

thanks!

I have attached my picture of dissecting my filter.

I saw various pieces of black rubber. The longest piece is 1 cm (length) x 2mm width. It looks to be flat on one side and semi circular on the other side.

The red one circles are the black pieces I found.

The other picture is one black piece against the ruler.

There are only a few metallic speckles here and there (may be like 4 or 5). The mileage on this engine is around 20,000miles .The car is an 05 but got a remanufactured engine from Porsche in '08. Would these black plastic pieces still due to engine breaking in? Or would it be Porsche didn't clean up the engine during remanufacturing and those are left overs?

Or simply the IMS is on its path to destruction?

I thought the '08 remanufactured engine would have the latest bearing and IMS bearing problems would be least likely to happen. Please advice. Kind of fearful of what would happen.

Thanks

Hi all,

Notice a few black plastic pieces in the oil filter. It is on the outside of the filter, the inner core side is clean as a whistle. Does the outside get oil flowed towards the inside after circulating through the engine or is it from the inside out?

I am hoping it is not sign of disaster...

I am looking at the Parts diagram on this page:

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/987-05-08/904-20.php

trying to make sense of the diagram.

is that inside the bumper and in front of wheel well or is it at the back of the wheel well?

thanks

I am not very mechanically inclined but will give the liner removal a shot. Any tips on how to remove it? What replacement parts (like those plastic anchors) should I buy before hand?

Thanks

I am not very mechanically inclined but will give the liner removal a shot. Any tips on how to remove it? What replacement parts (like those plastic anchors) should I buy before hand?

Thanks

My headlight has just stopped working. Everytime I use it just dumps washer fluid under the driver side front bumper. I think the pump is still working otherwise it wouldn't dump fluid and I suspect is loose hose fitting somewhere. Do I need to remove the bumper cover?

Thanks

William

According to my dealer, the soft top is not covered even under new car warranty. I guess if something mechanical breaks and puncture a hole, that will be a different story.

Thanks Maurice,

Here's some pictures

Note the first image red circle is where the hole is and the whole tray is contorted at the back. The green circle on the upper right should tuck underneath the bodywork but it could no longer.

The second picture shows the tray looking from the front. Note the part of the tray denoted by red circle should screw to where the rusty string is but that part is completely ripped out. Also, the green circle part is twisted and can no longer tuck underneath the body work. I guess this is where a lot of water leaked into the cabin as well (between the body and the tray).

Any ideas on how this tray can be salvaged or should i just simply get another tray?

Thanks

William

William:

The photos make it a lot clearer.

In all likelihood, the biggest problem vis-a-vis water intrusion is the small hole circled in red in your first photo.

You can definitely seal that up with some Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.

The other parts that are twisted out of shape can probably only be straightened out by removing the complete top and frame assembly (which you would have to do anyway to install a brand new drain tray if you decided to go that route.

Here is a DIY for removing the complete top and frame assembly. It's relatively easy if you have even minimal DIY skills, and should only take about 1 1/2 hours start to finish: http://sites.google....gthetopandframe

Once you remove the top and frame assembly, you can then remove the drain trays. They are made of foam material and you can "straighten" them back to their original shape by stuffing them with some newspapers or plastic bubble wrap. If you leave them like that for a few days, they can regain their original shape. You should then examine them and, if necessary, seal up any tears or rips with the silicone sealant. If necessary, you can use "outdoor" duct tape underneath the tear or rip as a "backing" for the silicone sealant that you can apply from the top side.

Once you have the drain trays out, be sure to examine the plastic hollow cup that leads to the drain hose to be sure there is no crack in that part, and that it is solidly connected to the drain hose beneath it.

If you don't want to go to all of that trouble, you can simply replace the drain trays with new ones. They are a little pricey for pieces of shaped foam, but a lot less expensive than a new central alarm computer.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice for your writeup.

Looks like I lucked out. I was able to use a blow dryer to restore the tray while the tray is still in the car. I will proceed by using permatex to patch the tray.

Thanks

William

I notice that the plastic drip pan (sorry got it wrong on the title) on passenger side is damaged and is leaking. There a hole which I think can be repaired but the pan can no longer goes underneath the body on the body side. No matter how I pull it, it simply will not underneath the body work unlike the driver side. I think this is where a lot of the leaking into cabin takes place. Do you think can the top leak into the cabin because the drip pan is not wrapped underneath the body work?

If I replace the passenger side pan, what's the easiest way to do it without removing the top? Can I simply unbolt one bolt at a time on the top frame and slide the pan in?

Also, is the computer underneath the driver side? I hope the flood on passenger side would not have adverse effects. (Note US car)

Thanks

William

William:

The central alarm computer is under the driver's side seat (left side) on U.S. Boxsters.

You can loosen all three 13 mm bolts on the opposite side of the side that you want to lift, and remove all three bolts on the side you want to lift and get a little space to slide part of the foam drain tray under the base of the convertible top frame.

The foam drain tray must be completely intact or sealed with black silicone adhesive, otherwise it will absolutely allow water to intrude into the cabin.

I'm assuming you are talking about the portion of the drain tray that meets the base of the convertible top frame, not the part of the drain tray that tucks under the sheet metal above the V-lever black plastic protective plates.

If you have a photo of the area you are talking about, it would make it easier to advise you on how to seal it up.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice,

Here's some pictures

Note the first image red circle is where the hole is and the whole tray is contorted at the back. The green circle on the upper right should tuck underneath the bodywork but it could no longer.

From boxster">

The second picture shows the tray looking from the front. Note the part of the tray denoted by red circle should screw to where the rusty string is but that part is completely ripped out. Also, the green circle part is twisted and can no longer tuck underneath the body work. I guess this is where a lot of water leaked into the cabin as well (between the body and the tray).

From boxster

">

Any ideas on how this tray can be salvaged or should i just simply get another tray?

Thanks

William

I notice that the plastic drip pan (sorry got it wrong on the title) on passenger side is damaged and is leaking. There a hole which I think can be repaired but the pan can no longer goes underneath the body on the body side. No matter how I pull it, it simply will not underneath the body work unlike the driver side. I think this is where a lot of the leaking into cabin takes place. Do you think can the top leak into the cabin because the drip pan is not wrapped underneath the body work?

If I replace the passenger side pan, what's the easiest way to do it without removing the top? Can I simply unbolt one bolt at a time on the top frame and slide the pan in?

Also, is the computer underneath the driver side? I hope the flood on passenger side would not have adverse effects. (Note US car)

Thanks

William

Quick update.

The intermittent ignition switch problem came back. The battery is brand new. Took it to dealer and of course it doesn't misbehave there. They pulled codes and couldn't find anything. It felt like the immobilizer is simply not recognizing the key when this issue comes up. Mechanically the switch can still be turned on but the electronics is simply dead. Usually a few key reinsert will get it going but it once took me 5 mins of trying to get it going. I wonder would pedro's DIY article apply (on the post 2003 cars)

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html

Any update? Did you change your KEY BATTERY? Any change in condition? Let us know what you come up with....

Thanks,

DC

sorry didn't update as I want to try it out for a week before I conclude anything. I changed the key battery and so far is operating perfectly and I am hoping that's the issue. I would have never thought is the key battery because I always thought the key battery is only for the remote and not affect the ignition. It wouldn't be good if the key battery goes dead and car wouldn't start....

As for the rough idling on inclines, took it to the dealer and they couldn't observe it nor any codes could be found. The engine never dies out but the engine just felt rough at idle on inclines.

Thanks

Hi all,

I have been having two problems with my 987 and I hope you guys may have some ideas on where to start diagnosing.

1. The car idles rough on inclines. It idles perfectly on level ground but when is stopped at either on up slope or down slope, the idling is not happy. I am stumped.

2. The ignition switch. It takes a few jiggling counterclockwise or taking out and putting in again for the car to fire up. Sometimes the steering wheel lock doesn't release but sometimes it does and it still doesn't fire up. After a few tries, then the 987 starts. The dealer said 987 ignition switch is different from 986 and said the 986 switch problem doesn't affect it. They kept saying change out the car battery first. However, I never have a slow crank issue but simply nothing is happening except electrics on when ignition misbehave. And they mention the ignition switch failure should throw a code inside computer which I kind of doubt....

I hope to get some ideas from fellow 987ers. thanks

W

HI...

Do not have any Boxsters. And I don't have an idea about #1. On #2, did they say to change the car battery or the Key battery? Sometimes if the key battery ( a small watch battery) gets weak, it can case starting problems due to the transponder setup that the car reads when the key is used. May be worth checking. Just a thought

DC

The dealer mechanic was referring to the car battery. The key remote so far has been operating perfectly so I doubt the battery is weak. However, I'll change it to see if there's an improvement.

Hi all,

I have been having two problems with my 987 and I hope you guys may have some ideas on where to start diagnosing.

1. The car idles rough on inclines. It idles perfectly on level ground but when is stopped at either on up slope or down slope, the idling is not happy. I am stumped.

2. The ignition switch. It takes a few jiggling counterclockwise or taking out and putting in again for the car to fire up. Sometimes the steering wheel lock doesn't release but sometimes it does and it still doesn't fire up. After a few tries, then the 987 starts. The dealer said 987 ignition switch is different from 986 and said the 986 switch problem doesn't affect it. They kept saying change out the car battery first. However, I never have a slow crank issue but simply nothing is happening except electrics on when ignition misbehave. And they mention the ignition switch failure should throw a code inside computer which I kind of doubt....

I hope to get some ideas from fellow 987ers. thanks

W

I also live in So Cal and have the same problem. The elastic is overstretched and has no spring left it in at all (either side).

What I'm planning to do, is to remove the screw holding the free end of the elastic (Screw 1 in the diagram) take a piece of 3/4 width industrial elastic which I will stretch out to full length and then cut. Next, I will hand stitch (using two needles and one piece of industrial, polyester thread) one end of the elastic to the trapezoidal material. Finally, I will reattach the screw. It seems like a straight forward procedure and it certainly can't be any worse than what is currently there.

Has anyone else tried a similar procedure?

If not, I'll come back and post the results.

Thanks,

Paul

Paul:

The method that you mention should definitely solve the problem.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

My dealer used the same method in solving the problem as well. However, do note that I have to readjust again after 3 months due to the strap is losing its remaining elasticity faster. Also, be careful when you tighten the screw as I could imagine they can be easily stripped.

My '05 boxster S has undergone an engine replacement early last year at around 25000miles. Now the car has around 30000miles and 4 years in operation so the new engine is only 1 year in service with only 5000 miles on.

The dealer mechanic told me that the car needs a 4 year major inspection (change spark plugs, air filter, belt inspection etc...). Do you think I need that inspection?

Does an engine replacement change the air filter and spark plugs as well?

Thanks

Hi,

I got a 05 987S and it has the 996 type of pads originally (I guess early production)...

I found through suncoast that 996 352 949 03

and i got this set 996 351 939 15 with me

I see that the 939 15 was specified as superseded by 949 03 and they do look different.

However, would the 939 15 actually fit my car? Does it make the brakes any worse off?

Thanks

William

Please note, don't worry about this post.... I just returned that set of pads to my ebay seller.... thanks for looking!

How do you route the wire around the door? Do you just open the window a crack and slide your wires through there?

Thanks

I wonder has this happen to anybody or how uncommon this is. I got this '05 987 for one month and it is starting to develop a crack on the clamshell arms. Both arms are developing the same crack at exactly the same spot. Otherwise the top is still operating perfectly.

Yes, your temperature gauge should be in middle all the time after warm-up.

Curious, should the fan be always on after warm up? middle is around 175F and is on above 158F.

thanks, took your advice! Besides, dealer wouldn't budge on pricing makes the decision easier.

Are you sure its had two complete engines ? I could understand one intermediate shaft and a seal , but two cases of shaft failure sounds excessive. The design of the intermediate shaft was changed around 2006 to a larger thread size. Unless your car was unlucky to have a replacement engine with the older design , it doesnt make sense that a newer one would fail. The newer design is what is currently fitted to all 987 Cayman / boxster (with 3.4 l engine ) and 911 with 3.6 and 3.8. The last or later 3.2 engines also had the same shaft design I beleive. To date I've heard no cases of the 3.4 l engine intermediate shafts failing. If the latest engine is one fitted after mid 2006 then you should have no more worries. The intermediate shaft seems more likely to fail on cars with lower less frequent mileage than daily ruunners. Typically cars dont tend to reach 40 k if the intermediate shaft is going to fail if it is a weak unit.

The car is being sold by a Porsche dealer with CPO. It got its first "heart transplant" in April, 2006 around 10,000 miles then the 2nd one blew around 20,000 miles (Jan,2008). The dealer service history said is 2 intermediate shaft failure and both resulted in engine catastrophe. And of course they told me driven by a lady who doesn't abuse the car ;)

Perhaps I am talking myself into it.... Since the engine was replaced 800 miles ago, may be I get the added benefit of a brand new engine?

But perhaps the car is just so jinxed that i shouldn't get it. ;)

Does one get repeated engine failures often?

I am thinking of buying a '05 boxster S (987) and I just found out it already had 2 engine replacements (intermediate shaft failure). The first replacement took place in april, 06 and the latest one is Jan, 2008.

I wonder would you buy such a car or go on to look for another one?

Thanks