jvcuenca

just a quick update: I figured out to wire the DRL and I saved $180.00. Best BUY wanted 180.00 dollars and they said it would take 2 hours just to run the wires(I mounted the DRL myself as well on the front bumper) I only spent $20.00 to wire the DRL. I will take some videos of that to show you how I did it. The process is so simple and it took me 1 hour(I don't have any experience with wiring at all). All you need is some time and a pack of bud light!

got the DRL hella lights on ebay!!!

I just bought a DRL LED and already mounted on the bumper. However, I am not an expert when it comes to wiring. I'm thinking connecting it directly to the parking light fuse(if this make any sense). Any thoughts or ideas on how do I go about tackling this project? I went o best buy and quoted me two hours and the guy says it is 80.00 dollars an hour and gave me a total of 150. 00(yeah right, the guy can't even add. 80 and 80 is 160) so I smelled the BS and left and told him that I will just deal with it myself. All he has to do is run the wires. DRL LED lights were already installed on the bumper. That took me awhile coz I had to cut some part of the bumper to make it fit. Now running to the firewall and connecting it to the parking light fuse shouldn't be that difficult. Am I right about this? I think 150 is a bit to much. It would take me two hours without experience but this guy would probably take 30 to an hour to do the job. Thanks

As long as the loose idler has not damaged the mounting boss, replacing both the idler and mounting bolt should fix the issue........

thanks..just got the parts today..bolted the upper idler and placed the new belt...no more noise and everything is ok...

thanks..and yes, I have a boxster..didn't realize I'm on the 996 forum...but as far as the car, I just start it and left it running for less than a few minutes then shut it off since it's making a lot of noise. Again thanks for the info..

you're better off with stock headers. I bought one on ebay and it was crappy. The guy that installed it for me(from CNC) says that he had to shave(or resurfaced) the headers(where you put the gasket on) since the surface was uneven causing a major leak. Then after he did the work, he told me that I should've stick with the stock headers. These guys at the CNC shop are the experts. They work on high end cars from porsche, ferraris etc. So, basically stay away from ebay headers. Most headers on ebay are junks..Maybe they just up the price on some headers on ebay claiming that they have the best, but it's all the same..This is just my opinion but some people might disagree...

just thought I'd share what had happened to my 1998 porshce boxster. I've been hearing this engine noise that I thought was coming from my transmission. I called my mechanic friend and had him checked it out as well. He said he is 90 percent sure that it was my starter, not my transmission. So, I said ok. Let me buy the starter. So, I spent 200 something dollars and still waiting for the starter to get here. The noise kept getting louder and louder. I did a research here and most engine noise forums is directing to the starter. So, today while I was inspecting the engine(like I know what's really causing the engine noise) I happened to look at the serpentine belt. It looked like it was frayed and there was tiny bits of metal pieces on it. Took out the engine cover behind the seats and upon my inspection, the upper idler came loose. I don't know how it happened but the bolt is loose and the belt is not where it's supposed to be anymore. So, if you guys happen to hear an engine noise, don't just remove the cover from the top, also inspect the serpentine belt. Also, even though you have a mechanic friend, don't always take their word for it. Speaking of my friend, I will be giving him a call today and rub it in his face... anyway, my question is, since my upper idler is completely gone, and I kept starting the car without realizing that the main culprit was the idler. Did I damaged anything else while it was running when the serpentine belt was out of it's place? Thank you

Hello all first post here. Bought my 99 Boxster for a song but have been throwing money at it for 6 months

I have repaired a blown head gasket$$$$$$$$$$$$

all coils

all 4 o2 sensors

waterpump

thermostat

AOS

MAF

etc:)

After all this now I am getting codes PO420, Po446, PO 1126

I have a bently manual and went after the canister and blew out all hoses with compressed air. Cleaned the shutoff valve, Made my way to the idle control valve and cleaned it as well. BTW i also insatlled a new MAF and still the codes. I dont have expensive electronic tools and need some guidance on how to rid my car of these codes. Thanks in advance for good advice.

Dennis

Replace the shut off valve. I did mine nd it fixed the p0446 code...

that's awesome!!! saved your website on my favorites for future reference!

ok, just need to give you guys an update..I just replaced the shut-off valve and drove the car for about 100 miles...I get no check engine light!!! I'll be driving it tomorrow for another 50 to 80 miles just to make sure..but if you're getting the code P0446, then it is most likely your shut off valve..I bought mine from EBS racing.com for $88.00. I also bought the EVAP canister but didn't use it so I will be returning it. The EVAP from EBS cost me $355.00. I got a quote from my local porsche dealership and they want $472.00 for it..not including tax...so if you need a cheaper OEM porsche parts, EBS racing is one of the place to get it from...

Replacing the shut off valve is an easy DIY! It is connected to your EVAP canister. The EVAP canister is located on the front passenger side. You will need to remove your front right wheel...then the cover(splash guard..or fender well..forgot what's it called..then you will see you canister...remove all the tubing connected to it and pull out your canister..you will see one screww that's holding the shut off valve..once the screw is removed, you just pull out the old one and replace it with your new shut off valve...that's it...

so, how do you fix this problem? thanks

I too have had this problem. It occurs on and off for three years. Dealer can't fix. I have had the EVP Canister replaced twice. Appears to be related to overfilling the gas tank. When there is gas collected up the tube it causes the fault. Need to empty tank and refill normally. Once I have driven through one or two tanks of gas the code clears.

ok, I'll try that onceI replace my canister. I tend to overfill the gas tank as well..Might as well changed it since my car is over 10 years old...

Time for an update. I replaced the carbon canister with a new one and the car still shuts off so we can eliminate that as the problem. Next thing is the shutoff valve. I located the carbon canister vent valve housing which houses the both the carbon control valve and the shutoff valve. If the shutoff valve is at fault, would I be able to test it by simply disconnecting the shutoff valve and the car will start again? When the car shuts off, I no longer get the fault code with Durametric.

so, did it fix the code P0446? I called EBS racing today and I was told that they get a lot of order placed for a carbon canister and the shut off valve. Which I am guessing that this is the main culprit for the code P0446. I placed an order today because my check engine light came on and gave me the code P0446. There has been a lot of post here but they just tell you what it is and doesn't give you information on how to fix the problem. I have the manual, what I need to know is how to fix it since I already know where it is located and what the P0446 means. So, I will give an update here once I get mine replaced. Hope I get it this week and I hope this fixes the issue.

2001 996-C2 3.4L 6 speed Cab

Is there anything I need to know before I install a K&N #57-7000 Cold Air Intake.

I plan on doing the install this weekend and want to know any Tips or Tricks.

Thanks!

P.S. I still have the same old problem with my Engin Lid release switch. (past post)

I had mine for about 6 months now. Still fine..no codes no issues..just depends on how much oil you put in the filter and that's when it will make your check engine light come on..but if it does, then clean the MAF and you're good to go..just lightly oil the filter...putting too much oil is what causes some problem with MAF..MAF is very sensitive

Anybody?

Anything?

can also be your clock spring. the only way to find out is to use the durametric...

The air sucking sound is like as if you place a strong vacuum cleaner on the carpet, when I step hard on the gas pedal. The sound appears for only 1 second...

Any thoughts?

Andy

probably just your intake...and that's normal

works great for what: from the rear of the car, you can jack it up from the crossmember? if so, that's awesome. what's the part number?

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :)

This link will take you to the AC section http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic1.htm

This one works better http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/tools/AC-Hydraulic3.htm

thanks..what about the cross beam??

works great for what: from the rear of the car, you can jack it up from the crossmember? if so, that's awesome. what's the part number?

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember.

That's nice. Do you mind posting the part number or the site? I went to the website but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance!

I only notice it when washing the car, and it has not fallen out yet, but the entire vent assembly is loose inside the body.

Anyone know if this can be tightened, or do I possibly have something broken in there?

Thanks in advance.

I see, you're talking about the black vents. If it's loose, then don't worry about it falling off. It won't. Just remove the housing, re-seat the black vents, that's it.

My drivers side seems loose also. are you talking the housing or the black vents inside? I was refering to the housing. My passenger side seems pretty snug. it fits better for some reason.

I'm talking about the housing. If it's your black vents, then remove the housing and see if it broke. If it's not broken, then put it back in place. It has three holder where you just slide it into place...can you take a photo so we can see? thanks

Maurice:

here is the part number for the porsche bolts from EBS Racing: it is 900 378 131 00. I'm going to start buying parts from these guys. It's way cheaper than going to my dealership for parts..and it's free shipping since they have a local shop in town...

also, you need to phone in the order. It won't show on their website. Here is their contact info :EBS Racing inc. | 4068 South McCarran Blvd. Unit B | Reno, Nevada 89502

Phone: 775-673-1300 | Toll Free: 1-800-462-3774 | Fax: 775-673-2088. It's $2.00 per bolt, I think it's worth it especially if yours is like mine which is all rusted and broken. Again, their website is http://www.ebsracing.com. Ask for Don.

V/r, John

John:

Thanks so much for posting all of the detailed info. Saves a lot of time and searching. :thankyou:

Regards, Maurice.

you're welcome!

took photos of the actual bolts

I only notice it when washing the car, and it has not fallen out yet, but the entire vent assembly is loose inside the body.

Anyone know if this can be tightened, or do I possibly have something broken in there?

Thanks in advance.

it is just held by one screw on top. you're probably missing the screw...otherwise, if the screw is still there then I wouldn't worry about it falling off

So out of curiousity, What did you pay for it? I have been pondering the thought of doing something similar. My thought is if the engine blows, screw the kids college fund he can always get a scholorship. Daddy needs a 3.4 or 3.8 in his box!! :drive:

poor kid...that's funny though... :D anyway, can you post what you did...just for future reference coz I was thinking about doing the same thing once it is time for a new engine..probably in two years? thanks

They don't have the bolts on their website but once I get them this week, I will post the part number for it. And yes, it needs to be phoned in to order. I will be working on it this weekend. Bought the easy out, bought a mini torch(if the PB does not do its job). Hope it works..

jv:

Thanks for the info. I'll look for your post.

If you have done a few broken studs (I've had the pleasure, but not by choice :eek:) then you probably know that the most crucial step for success is to make absolutely sure that you drill the hole with the smallest bit at the absolute center of the bolt. That will allow you to drill progressively bigger holes so that you don't start out with a too small e-z out that might break off inside the hole you have drilled into the middle of the broken stud. If that happens, you'll have a much tougher time because the e-z out material is a lot harder than most drill bits.

So, wait until you have drilled a decent sized hole into the middle of the stud so that the e-z out will be beefy enough to not break off when you try to back out the stud.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice:

here is the part number for the porsche bolts from EBS Racing: it is 900 378 131 00. I'm going to start buying parts from these guys. It's way cheaper than going to my dealership for parts..and it's free shipping since they have a local shop in town...

also, you need to phone in the order. It won't show on their website. Here is their contact info :EBS Racing inc. | 4068 South McCarran Blvd. Unit B | Reno, Nevada 89502

Phone: 775-673-1300 | Toll Free: 1-800-462-3774 | Fax: 775-673-2088. It's $2.00 per bolt, I think it's worth it especially if yours is like mine which is all rusted and broken. Again, their website is http://www.ebsracing.com. Ask for Don.

V/r, John

They don't have the bolts on their website but once I get them this week, I will post the part number for it. And yes, it needs to be phoned in to order. I will be working on it this weekend. Bought the easy out, bought a mini torch(if the PB does not do its job). Hope it works..

jv:

Thanks for the info. I'll look for your post.

If you have done a few broken studs (I've had the pleasure, but not by choice :eek:) then you probably know that the most crucial step for success is to make absolutely sure that you drill the hole with the smallest bit at the absolute center of the bolt. That will allow you to drill progressively bigger holes so that you don't start out with a too small e-z out that might break off inside the hole you have drilled into the middle of the broken stud. If that happens, you'll have a much tougher time because the e-z out material is a lot harder than most drill bits.

So, wait until you have drilled a decent sized hole into the middle of the stud so that the e-z out will be beefy enough to not break off when you try to back out the stud.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice:

here is the part number for the porsche bolts from EBS Racing: it is 900 378 131 00. I'm going to start buying parts from these guys. It's way cheaper than going to my dealership for parts..and it's free shipping since they have a local shop in town...

They don't have the bolts on their website but once I get them this week, I will post the part number for it. And yes, it needs to be phoned in to order. I will be working on it this weekend. Bought the easy out, bought a mini torch(if the PB does not do its job). Hope it works..

jv:

Thanks for the info. I'll look for your post.

If you have done a few broken studs (I've had the pleasure, but not by choice :eek:) then you probably know that the most step for success is to make absolutely sure that you drill the hole with the smallest bit at the absolute center of the bolt. That will allow you to drill progressively bigger holes so that you don't start out with a too small e-z out that might break off inside the hole you have drilled into the middle of the broken stud. If that happens, you'll have a much tougher time because the e-z out material is a lot harder than most drill bits.

So, wait until you have drilled a decent sized hole into the middle of the stud so that the e-z out will be beefy enough to not break off when you try to back out the stud.

Regards, Maurice.

thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind. :thankyou: