jr_152

Thanks Loren, I will try that.

Hi Loren, I tried that, but they won't go in. I am assuming that there must be a release latch to keep them from going down,

otherwise in a roll over they would be useless. i can't even open the top because they are in the way.

Seat belts are fine.

Need some help, and could not find in search.

I rear ended a car today, and the roll bars popped out.

It was not a strong inpact, and nothing happened to my bumper, but the roll bars popped out.

Anyone can tell me how to put them back in. Thanks.

Thanks Loren.

This will help a lot.

I need to remove my driver side mirror to get it painted.

I had that stupid Xpel film on the car, and when I pulled it off the mirror and front bumper, the clear coating came off with the film.

I did a few searches in the forum but could not find anything on R&R the mirror.

Maybe somebody point me in the right direction. Thanks.

2004 C4S

Just an update.

Got all my parts and opened valve cover. pushed on the lifters, and was very happy to find the problem right away.

One of the exhaust lifters pushed in easily, so for some reason it went bad.

Replaced all lifters for cylinder # 6, closed it up and cleared all fault codes and started it up.

Runs like a charm.

Thanks for the info. I just ordered a shop manual, and will start working to replace the lifters in the next few days.

Will post after I have it fixed.

My C4S wuth 60K miles just threw the Check engine light. Hooked up my PST2 and got the P306 misfire cylinder # 6

I changed spark plug, and coil, and erased fault, and still the CEL came on.

I then assumed it was the injector, so I hooked up a noid light, and pulse is OK, so I just spent all day replacing # 6 injector with a new one.

I thought that would have solved my problem, but after I started the engine, the CEL came on again.

If I don't let the engine idle and drive it on the freeway, it runs ok, and the CEL does not come on. Once I let it idle, it comes on.

I am going to do a compression test on # 6, and a leakdown test, but I think being it runs ok at a higher RPM, it would not be compression.

I don't know if the VarioCam has anything to do with this problem.

Appreciate any help or suggestions from anyone. I do not want to take it to the dealer and get ripped off.

Forgot to put in the year, its a 2004 C4S

Check out Mercury Insurance Group extended warranty. I have them for my 03 C4 cab. So far over $5K of repairs covered with no problems.

Thanks for the feedback. I will check Mercury out.

My Porsche warranty on my 2004 4s with 43K miles on it, runs out on the end of this month.

I checked with my Porsche dealer on getting an extended warranty, and they suggested Easy Care to add 4 years or 50K miles for $5388.00 with $250.00 deductible.

When I came home, I decided to do a check on Easy Care, and from all the complaints I see, looks like they are a Rip-off Company.

Anyone with a warranty company they can recommend? A company that actually pays for a claim when needed.

I am trying to sell my 1 month old 997 C4S wheels (8" width front and 11" width rear). Am getting a few reactions from 996 C2S and C4S owners. Does anyone have experience with the fit?

I have the 997 19" turbo wheels on my 996 C4S, and they fit perfectly. The rears were supposed to use 5mm spacers, but after trying them, I decided not to use them.

They look great.

I am looking to replace my 18" wheels with a 19" set off a 2008 Turbo. I have a couple of questions I need help with. My front wheel is 8" and the new one is 8.5" deep, so I don't know if that will be a problem.

My second question is that there is a difference of 6mm in the offset, front and rear.

My front offset is 50mm, the new wheel is 56mm

My rear offset is 45mm, the new wheel is 51mm

How critical is the 6mm difference, and should I use 6mm spacers?

Thanks for any help.

I was going from what the sales brochure said - it specifically refers to ESItronic and does not mention Porsche in the brochure.

A PST2 is worth what it is worth to you -- depending on how much you use it.

Remember that a PST2 only covers cars through MY2004 - so nothing newer and there will not be any updates.

Dealer price on a new PST2 was $4000 ($8000 to independent shops) - so I guess that could be your guide.

Thanks Loren, I will call the bosch sales rep tomorrow, and find more details on it, and I will post results.

This should wrap this thread up. The KTS 200 has limited functionality on Porsche vehicles, but in the future more functions will be added.

I was going from what the sales brochure said - it specifically refers to ESItronic and does not mention Porsche in the brochure.

A PST2 is worth what it is worth to you -- depending on how much you use it.

Remember that a PST2 only covers cars through MY2004 - so nothing newer and there will not be any updates.

Dealer price on a new PST2 was $4000 ($8000 to independent shops) - so I guess that could be your guide.

Thanks Loren, I will call the bosch sales rep tomorrow, and find more details on it, and I will post results.

I think that (KTS 200) does what the older ESItronic software did.

Bosch sold a laptop (or PC desktop) version of software for most European cars that did most of the basic OBD II diagnostics and then a few more "special features" for the models covered.

If you notice Porsche is not on their list. Unless you work on those other models on a daily basis it would not make sense to me. JMHO.

Thanks for the info Loren, but when I was checking their training site, it does show Porsche as one of the vehicles that can be selected. In your opinion, what is the max I should pay for a PST2?

I have been trying to put together a PST2, found the hardware needed, and a clone Dell for about $3000.00. I don't know if this is a good price. But then I found the new Bosch KTS 200, and it looks like it will do what the PIWIS tester will do and not only for Porsche, but other vehicles. Maybe Loren can check it out and tell us if its worth buying. The nice part is that the KTS 200 is priced around $3400.00 new. I am attaching a link to the KTS 200, but if I am not supposed to do that, then Loren, please edit my post. Thanks everyone.

http://www.bosch-kts200.com/us/en/media/KTS200salessheet.pdf

Hello again,

I've installed the spoiler and garage switchs in my dash and they work great, except they do not light up when I turn the car lights on. I have a "TC" (traction Control) switch on the upper left side and I put the new switches below it, and used the two outter plugs for the light...but the new switches don't come on. The "TC" letter light up, when the lights are on, and the little round light comes on when I put the "TC" switch in the off position.

Did I miss something in the 'how-to'? Should I go over to the other switches and tap into one of those (top is door lock, middle is rear de-fogger, bottom is rear wiper)?

Thanks for any help,

I did both these mods, and had the same problem, and I tried tapping all switches on the console. I got them to light up, but when lights are on, the spoiler kept going up and down by itself, and the garage would open or close just by turning the lights on. So right now, they are not lit. The lights in the switch are LED lights, because if you use the wrong polarity, they do not light up. It also looks like the 2 outer connectors on the switch, are also hooked up internally to the middle connectors on the switch, (maybe a resistor or capacitor)thats why my spoiler kept going up and down when the lights are on. I was going to try and open the switch, and make sure there are no internal connections to the center switch terminals we are using. I will try to tackle this as soon as I get some free time. It should be very basic, but I am sure the problem is in the switch. Some people say they got it working, but ???? maybe they can shed some light. By the way, I am using window switches I had laying around, but I don't think this is the problem.

jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

I just ordered the Durametric OBD software, so I don't know if I will be able to do something in regards to the radio with the on board computer, to delete the 4 flashes. I did not use the Bose amp. I hooked up the door and dashboard speakers in series for the front. The rear speakers remained at 2 Ohms. I used the Boyo VTL300 backup camera, and it plugs directly into the kenwood.

The Durametric software can not program MOST devices (like the radio, CD player, etc.). You will need to find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester to re-program those devices.

Thanks Loren for the info. I will see if I find someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester. Right now I am very happy with my setup, and those dashes really don't bother me till I find a tester.

jr_152,

I don't know a lot about Porsche, but you can personalize the display in the center cluster. This can be done with different settings of "ODB" (I'm french, and I don't know the english word...maybe "in board computer" ..?).

So you can choose to display other things and get rid of these four dashes...

Further, you've exactly done what I want to do :rolleyes: So, can you please tell what you've done with the Bose amp ?

Did you experience problems with the fact that Bose speakers are 2 ohms ?

Where is your rear camera ? How did you wire it ?

Thanks.

I just ordered the Durametric OBD software, so I don't know if I will be able to do something in regards to the radio with the on board computer, to delete the 4 flashes. I did not use the Bose amp. I hooked up the door and dashboard speakers in series for the front. The rear speakers remained at 2 Ohms. I used the Boyo VTL300 backup camera, and it plugs directly into the kenwood.

Do you know if the battery terminal wires (from the car) were cleaned too? Even if the battery is new, if there is corrosion on the wire connectors, it make a bad connection. Charging system are relatively simple, so if it is not the battery, the connectors, then it is mostly likely the alternator. How is the tension on the belt? Sometimes a loose belt can cause this, but I think it is an auto tensioner.

The connectors (battery end and engine ends) look clean. The alternator was bench tested good. The serpentine belt is tight and clean. The tensioner was adjusted upon re-intallation of the alternator. The tensioner is an auto tensioner. I'm wondering if there are some voltage test points procedures I could try...

Your engine compartment is overheating....

But check and be sure the negative lead from the battery is FIRMLY connected to the body, tighten the nut.

You might want to check the body connection for the negative side of the alternator also.

The voltage regulator has a temperature sensing function so that as the ambiant temperature rises the battery is charged to a lower and lower level.

That sensing element within the alternator voltage regulator might be failing and a bench test wouldn't be likely to indicate, detect, it.

Once the voltage drops open the engine lid and cool the alternator with a fan and see if the voltage rises.

Thanks for that. I wonder if it could be overheating since it drops within 1 minute. It could be the sensor as you mentioned in the voltage regulator of the alternator because I did an additional test-at the connector post from the battery to the alternator, I started the engine and measured at the connector, it measured above 13 volts but slowly began to drop to 12 volts and continued. I stopped the engine and disconnected the battery lead from the terminal and measured again, the reading was 12.6 volts. After reconnecting the battery back on the lead, I restarted the engine checked the voltage again it was above 13 volts BUT this time I pulled the battery lead off the connector and measure the voltage on the alternator post (without the battery connected) and it measured above 12 volts but began to drop to ~10 volts. I reconnected the battery and retested to 12+ volts. So the only conclusion at this point is that there is something within the alternator that is defective and it doesn't show up on the bench test. Any thoughts as to whether I continue other tests or "bite the bullet" and replace the alternator which of course is non-returnable should it not solve the problem....

Its a bad alternator. Have it bench tested at another shop. With your engine running, if you don't get 13.8 volts at the battery, then your alternator is bad.

Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them.

jr 152,

It's nice to finally read a post where someone has accomplished removing the MOST + BOSE. I have called some high end car audio guys in town and no one has done this. A couple said they are nervous because on some other germans (MB) they have tried a conversion and it messed up the rest of the cars comp system.

Did you have any problems with the computer or car in general after your conversion? Do you have any pics? Forgive my green-ness but is the general procedure to replace head unit, run new hook-up to new amp and use exisiting speaker wires to connect to new amp (paying attention to ohms)? Is the head unit and amp power there or is it part of the fiber optic system?

Sorry for all the questions but I need to replace the becker and I've finally found someone that has done it!

Thanks!

I had no problems with the cars computer at all. Everything is running as before, except the radio display in the instrument cluster, now has 4 dashes. I think if the radio is deleted from the computer, those dashes will go away, but I am just guessing. Maybe Loren can shed some light on that. I am attaching some pics of the Kenwood installation. I moved the A/C controls to the lower slot, Painted my console, A/C trim and Boxter shelf to speed yellow, did the garage opener and spoiler switch mod to the dash, and installed a Boyo rear view camera to the Kenwood. I am a little bit disappointed with the Boyo Camera, as the picture looks washed out on a bright day, and colors are faded. I will call Boyo and see if I can talk to tech support. I hate to replace it and have to run a new camera cable to the license plate again. I do not have a CD changer, and not interested in one, but I am sure it can be added.

Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

That means doing a new complete intall !

Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ?

Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin...

I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them.

Thanks but, in a Bose system, are the speakers connected to the amp, or to the head unit ?

In other words, the optic bus goes only from the HU to the amp ? In that case, maybe I could shunt the amp, and just use the power of my new 2-din head unit ??

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers.

Hi everybody,

I've been searching for hours without success...

Does anybody know ? Is it possible to upgrade the CDR23 becker radio with a AVIC or Kenwwood head unit, since I have a MOST bus in my 2005 C2 ?

Is ther an adapter or something like this ?

Maybe Scosche FAI-3A ?

Thanks a lot.

I just finished installing a Kenwood DNX5120 in my 2004 C4s. I wasted so much time trying to use the Bose amp, and finally threw it away and rewired the system. I dont think the FAI-3A will work, because the amp is controlled through the fiber optic cable. I am very happy with the results so far, and the Garmin Nav system is great.

JR,

How did you wire this into the most ring? I also installed a 2 DIN kenwood in my 04 986 and I initially needed a FM modulator via the radio antenna as there was no compatibility with most initially. I am now looking at the Dension unit from Bumperplugs for this and ipod for a proper digital link into the ring.

I just finished installing a Kenwood DNX5120 in my 2004C4s with Bose Most Amp. Is there anyway to turn this amp on, or should I go to a different amp? or, should I use the speaker outputs from the Kenwood, and wire them to the speakers.

Another thought is, can I use the Amp turn on connection from the Kenwood +12V, and wire it straight to the Positive of the amplifier, or should I do it through a relay.

After all the research I did, finally came to the conclusion that it is not doable with the bose most. So I am rewiring and replacing the amp. If all you are looking for is ipod integration, then the denison unit should work. (pretty expensive)

I wanted the nav system, so I ended with the kenwood dnx5120 and it has everything you want for $678.00. I also ordered ipod and bluetooth adapters, and rear view camera.