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mcliquid
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Posts posted by mcliquid
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Loren --
2000 996 C2 Code needed. Thanks in advance!!
CDR-220
Type 4462
Serial # X503 1318 48/98
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my friend tried those codes,no dice also, thank you for your help
any others?trying to not call the dealer lol....
I think you are stuck calling the dealer.
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any others didnt work thanks
Jose -- Try 4302 4304 4306 --Tom
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You can do almost all of it yourself if you have a few tools and aren't totally mechanically retarded. Then if you don't want to deal with the plugs have an "indy" do that for you. Keep all your receipts and make a log of the work that was done for your service records and presto! 60k mile service done!
I'm in Western PA and just got hybrid 30,000/45,000 on my 2000 966 C2 done for $872.21 by an Independent shop including inspection ($65), Parts($367.84 (Plugs (110.40), Belt(43.04), Fluids & Oil(76.80), Filters(135.20), MCI Service (2.40)), Labor ($380.00) and Taxes ($59.37).
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Loren -- Thanks for doing this. It is greatly appreciated.
2000 996 C2
CDR-220
Type 4462
Serial # X503 1318 48/98
--Tom
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My in-laws had a pickup truck that was the home of a really dead animal. They never could find it, but it was believed to be in the dash somewhere. Since the truck lived outside there was no way to keep other animals out of it. I know the guy who has it now and I will check to see if the odor is still there. :unsure: Good luck on finding it. I doubt it is a small mouse, if you can smell it. Rat maybe or something larger?
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dporsche74 --
I went through the same exercise 2 years ago and I was even including Boxsters. (it was the golf bag in the trunk thing) The only real conclusion I came to was the 98-99 boxsters and 996's had some main issues porous engine block issues, RMS issues and oil separator issues. The engine block or its remanufactured engines and separator issues caused some engine failures. Most of those issues were fixed in 2000+.
Glass vs plastic rear windshield. Depends how long you are going to drive the car and what area of the country. I'm in Pittsburgh. My Cab top goes up and down a lot, due to rain or lousy weather, but I love it on one of those 30 sunny days. :-) The plastic window will cloud in certain areas, due to the carpeting in the rear holding well and bending of the window. If you plan to hold the car for some time and the top is up in the sun, you will run into the delamination issue. This is where the rear window adhesive starts to separate. If this is caught early enough, you can use some clear silicone sealer to keep the well dry. I bought my car with the delamination issue just starting. 2 years later the bond is still good, but if I were consoursing the car it would be laughed at for imperfection. www.carcareonline.com has some good tips to clear up a clouded plastic rear. The tips work well.
If this clouding and imperfection bother you then buy a glass windowed model.
The statement about buying the newest on you can afford is generally a rule to follow. But the key to the statement is not newest, but AFFORD. Make sure you have a good local Porsche mechanic that will treat your car like it was their own. I am lucky to be using C&G performance in Sewickley. Champ is a very above board guy.
Make sure you get a PPI before you start the negotiations. Hopefully the mechanic is well versed and can tell you of any issues, so you can be prepared and are able to AFFORD them.
A HINT if you have to cart around a wife or passenger that is not into racing. 17's are softer than 18's and much more forgiving than 19's.
I love my 2000 996 C2 Cab, however I get early model envy when I hear them at the track.
Only 2 things in life I hold for long periods of time, a car and a wife.
Happy motoring,
Tom
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I have seen this issue with many different vehicles including my 2000 996. I usually keep the clutch depressed and shift into third gear then back into first. A car buff a long time ago clued me into this "trick". Other PCA members talk about Porsche's transmissions are designed to down shift, so you could try at the stop light going fromm 2nd to 1st to see if this helps out.
I do not think this is a serious issue.
-Tom
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Here is an old post for a Boxster with the DYI for the Window regulator
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...+regulator++DYI
Here is the external DYI for replacing the window regulator:
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/
--Tom
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Team --
It what you put into the membership that matters. There are trivial benefits that come with the membership, but the more you participate the better the local PCA becomes. The local organization will put on events it thinks its membership wants, but unless you get in an roll up the sleeves you will only get what they provide. ARPCA just had a car control clinic for members and their families. I was out there with 17 year olds learning to control their cars. It was a blast. If I had not participated it would have been a waste of $42.
--Tom
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I just realized my problem is not the same. Mine is that when I open the door the window does not drop the 1/2 " that it use to drop. It seems to go up just fine and its only my drivers side door. There is no thud involved.
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I just ran into this same issue. I noticed that the temporary work around is to assist the front top of the drivers side window down with my hand. The window will move up properly after this. It jus tnever drops back down.
I will try the reseting the window memory with rolling down with switch and holding it for 10 seconds then the same for rolling up.
Thanks,
Tom
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Model and year of car -- and wire colors please.
Most likely someone might have had the airbag disable bar for the child seat.
Pardon my lapse of including information. Per the pictures of the plugs above.
2000 996 Cab There are 2 wires one is a light chocolate brown and the other is a lighter brown with an orange ish thin stripe. The end is a male 1 amp plug I was unable to make out the numbers on the plug. I saw 1 AMP 86####### Under it was BMW ######
Thanks again for your thoughts.
--Tom
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Loren or others --
Is this plug supposed to be plugged into something? This is under the passenger side front seat coming from the bundle of wires coming from the grounding bolt under the seat. I attached 2 pictures, which are not great, but hopefully will give you a better idea of what I am talking about.
Thanks,
Tom
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I get this with both my Audis when they sit (outside) for a while or inside after some rain. The rust builds up and it takes some time to wear it off. My oldest Audi 94 100 sat for 2 weeks outside while on holiday. Thumped for 3 weeks around 200 miles. Gradually had less thumping. The other car gets more use and it took about 50 miles once.
Hopefully this helps.
Tom
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[Fault 27 says firing circuit for the passenger side is not working (disconnected?).
In another post you said your fault was 271? Is this the same car - same fault?
Loren -- Yes same car wrong fault code :huh:
Where would the firing Circuit for the Passenger side? Maybe I can check to see if its disconnected?
Thanks,
Tom
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Loren -- Thanks. I think it was 27 and the tech that wrote up the information moved the "I" in ignition to close to 27 and it looked like 271. I edited my post after seeing the other post.
Sorry
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Sebastian --
Any luck with diagnosing your fault codes. I am interested in the Fault 27.
The guy I bought this car from said the airbag light came on after he removed his seat covers, so I am assuming that the 27 has something to do with a loose/unconnected wire on the passengerside seat, but I have not found anything yet. Your photos might help me find the right wire to check.
Thanks,
Tom
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Hello folks --
Has anyone run across this fault before. I took this to the Porsche Dealer to clear out the Memory Fault for the Airbag light. There seems to be a constant fault. The intial diagnosis is that the passenger side airbag needs to be replaced.
Fault 271 Ignition Ciruit, Passenger in the Airbag Module
2000 C2 Cab 6 speed
Any thoughts?
Nevermind I will follow up on this forum. The tech gave me the wrong fault number its 27 not 271
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18417
Thanks,
Tom
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LightFall --
The folks who I would talk to about experiences warranty companies are your mechanics. Refer to them for horror stories and screaming acolades. Then talk to the warranty company about claims procedures and what documentation is needed to expedite the claim. Do they have specific requirements for mechanics and does your fall with in the guidelines? Who is making the direct payment to the mechanic? You or them? If them does your mechanic want to deal with this paper work? Also find out from them what is guaranting their warranty? Is there anything that stops them from declaring backruptcy and walking away with your intial payment? What about preesisting conditions?
After all this talk about warranties, I thought I would just get a quote from AA Waranty company for $3,061.00 4 years /81000 miles. I have not discussed anything else regarding what this will cover or any of the questions above.
2000 Porsche 911 CARRERA/NON TURBO 33000 Miles
Pennsylvania
Plan : IAP Essential
Term : 48 Month(s) or 81000 miles on odometer
Standard Deductible: $100
Available options that may interest you :
$0 Deductible : $495
$50 Deductible : $245
$200 Deductible : $-265
Hitech Coverage : $200
Tire Coverage : $100
Electronics Package : $75
Thanks
Tom
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Thanks Scawf --
I went ahead an bought the 2 ContiSport Contact non N rated tires and will hope for the best. Since I do not intend to push the car too hard, I will cross my fingers and hope nothing will go awry. It too hard to see it sit in dry dock for the short Pittsburgh Driving season.
Thanks,
Tom
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OK I do not want to belabor this thread, but I'm in need of 2 rear tires. My front tires are ContiSport Contact (1) as well as the rears. I'm instructed by my indie mechanic to stick with ContiSport Contact. However Tirerack doesn't have any ContiSport Contact [1,2,3] - N rated tires(back ordered with no ETA) , but does have the ContiSport Contact 2 (Non N rated) and only 11 of these.
What could go wrong with the not Porsche Blessed tires, if I am not a track driver and do not anticipate exceeding 100 MPH for a prolonged period of time or pushing the outer limits of the car?
Thanks,
Tom
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Nevermind I saw the same Wind Deflector on Pelican Parts brand new OEM for $346, so used for 325 is not worth my effort.
Thanks,
Tom
New information:
The Part number for a windscreen for a 996 C2 Cab at Suncoast Imports is 000-044-801-45. Quoted price is $288.77 plus Shipping.
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Hello all --
I have a 2000 C2 Cab and have taken the hard top off and realize I may need a windstop. I started looking at new ones and used ones. Does $325 seem like a fair price for an unbent fairly clean(some nicks) windstop with storage case? Seems like a new one is around $450.
Thanks,
Tom
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
in Lost Radio Codes
Posted
Loren --
2000 996 C2 Code needed. Thanks in advance!!
CDR-220
Type 4462
Serial # X503 1318 48/98
Thanks,
Tom