pkust

Correct! These are one of the fun things about these cars, idiocracies, and you may find that after a while the new one will do the same thing. You might try shiming the light itself, I am on my second switch and it is doing the same again, but at least you know what it is. Sometimes the switch itself will fail with a micro crack in the circuit that you cant even see. most of my friends have had the same experience with their cars too. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the hook until it worked again, that way I didn't have to deal with the shim falling out every time I undid the roof! Good luck and all the best!

Roger, see if this will work...... https://www.partsgeek.com/fpvcs3p-audi-a4-headlight-switch.html 

“ when I’m slowing down, I will be going at a given speed, the car will downshift a gear, I will feel that sudden slow down, the car will run at a lower speed, downshift again, and I’ll feel that sudden slowdown again. This keeps happening until the car reaches second gear, of course. “

Mine does the same, you feel the down shift and then the deceleration braking, I have a 97 2.5 if the trans slips and them jams into gear that is not normal, JFP is right about changing the fluid a friend of mine suggested an additive that their shop puts in Mercedes that works well on the sticky selenoids when the hard shifting happens, but I don’t have the name handy, will check tomorrow and post back!

I had a coil pack failure at 18 years and 67k miles and replaced them all, seat of the pants feels like it runs better than ever, so when one goes, bite the bullet and do them all. Save the old ones and carry a spare, you will NEVER have another fail, as long as you have that spare with you. Murphy's law.

I had a coil pack failure and feather footed the car home changed them all as they were all original and eighteen years old. Knew what the failure was as I had it happen to me in my wife Audi A4, lost two at once, factory recall. Now my '97 runs like new, what a difference. If you have your original packs, bite the bullet and just change them all at once, you will be glad you did.

Sure glad you posted the pictures. Last Feb. a friend and I cleaned his rads out when we replaced an engine. We had to replace the driver side radiator as the dirt that was trapped down in the lower corner had actually corroded the aluminum and had created a slight leak that kept the dirt damp all the time resulting in even further corrosion, we didn't think of photos until we were finished with the project. This goes to show if you have a suspected over heating problem don't just go for the thermostat, clean your radiators first and see the difference that will make.

Thanks for the info and pics, that is what this forum is all about, and the best one on the web......Thanks again!

This is a great video on youtube from PMB Performance on the rebuilding of the rear calipers of the 914

It answers all of the little questions as to how these units go together.

Just got done rebuilding mine and they turned out great!

I can't believe no one has responded to your question, everyone must be out driving their cars.

It does sound like that may be the problem, check out the DIY on window regulator repair.

I have just experienced a failure on my passenger side, It goes down with the top latch and the console switch but not with the outer handle, although I can hear the motor working so it is not the switch. 

Pull the door panel and let us know what the issue is, the motor noise when activating it without the window movement would point to the regulator in the door.

Good luck,

Paul

1954 356 Cabriolet,

Bent windshield

visor on windshield frame

cover on top assembly in down position

Cool photo!

I think the operation is covered in the owners manual, it is normal to auto downshift to first when coming to a stop in the manual mode.

I have periodically experienced the same symptoms on the 4th to 5th up shift, It seemed to lessen after I changed the trans fluid and filter, my guess is a slightly sticking solenoid in the pressure circuit on the up shift. I have noticed that if you time the shift with letting up on the gas, as if you were shifting, it will shift normally with out the slamming. If you haven't changed your fluid, try that first, clean fluid if very important with these boxes. Hope this gives you some direction. :drive:

Maurice, here is the update on the top, the checklist was a lifesaver!

You were right, it was the micro switch that activates the convertible top double relay, there were micro cracks in the solder at the pins on the cross strip, so we re-soldered them and still could not get it to work, there was still a problem within the switch itself on the ground side and it would not make a connection to the socket at the relay, so we replaced the switch and everything works as it should.

What a test! After trouble shooting it all, it finally makes sense how all of the switches tie together. What a learning experience!

Thank you so much for your help on this issue and I hope that others will find this thread helpful WHEN they have a top problem, as surely they will!

This forum is the BEST! :thumbup:

Paul

Thanks, Maurice.

Down loaded fine, and will post results after checking the system, you are a lifesaver!

Paul

Yes, #5 relates to that, have done searches and can not figure what I am missing, that's why I questioned the alarm system although I haven't read anything that brings that into the equation, but on the diagrams it is tied in, the question is to what extent and if that may be an issue.

Can't seem to find a trouble shooting flowchart for this system yet, there should be one out there somewhere.

Forgot to mention he replaced the dash switch with a new one although they both tested the same and we have replaced the ignition switch with a new one.

Thanks

Hello all, haven't posted in a while, no issues, though read digests daily!

Helping a friend work on his 1999 Boxster and we have an issue with the top not working.

The top worked last year when we put a hardtop on and we have just put in a non-blown motor to get this $3500 POS running again.

This is what we know.

1. When unlatching the top the windows lower.

2. Removed motor and switch for clamshell, switch works properly and motor will run on the bench with 12v direct.

3. Both fuses are ok, and we have power to both fuses.

4. B pillar mico switch works.

5. Parking brake light works properly

6, Top control unit will work in my car, my top control unit will not work in his.

Noticed on electrical diagrams that the control unit ties into the alarm system.

The remote works properly, doors lock, alarm works, proximity sensor works and zone indicator works, beeps if area not closed.

What are we missing.

This thing is bumming me out.

We installed another engine, which went well and it stated first try, top is the last thing to fix.

Thanks

Paul

Both products are good, I have used both along with Sikkens and Glasurit. Just go with what your painters preference is. I prefer to use the PGG product line as that is what I have the most supplies for and I like the durability, easy to touch up and blend in.

Is anyone having problems with the old daily digests? I haven't received any for awhile and checked the settings and they are still set to get digests, really missing out on the conversations unless I remember to go to the website and see what has transpired.

Just wondering!

Boxster '00 S.

I pulled into my garage this evening after driving 10 miles and had a puddle of water directly below my coolant reservoir. It was dripping while I watched (as best I could).

I filled it to below the max line just this morning. I did so because the coolant showed 1/4 inch below the minimum line.

Is there an overflow tube there?

Sound like a leak. I replaced that tank 4 years ago. Sheesh

Let us know what you find, I did mine about two years ago, I was hoping it would last at least ten.

Paul

Randy

Besides checking the bulb for contact in the holder, could just be corrosion/oxidation, you might have to check the door switches also for the same. :lightbulb:

"When you close the door. It's like turning down a dimmer switch to the off position"

They are suppose to do that, just like the newer cars.

Paul :beer:

I had the same issue, but I could hear the release working. The rod had not been attached to the latch from day one! I could tell it had never been apart, must have been built on a friday afternoon!

I just changed the water pump in my car a month ago. I did all the right stuff bleeding the system and went for a ride on a very hot day, got stuck in traffic and had the temp hit about 200. Turning on the AC did nothing except make it go higher. Just before I got home the coolant level light came on. Filled with fluid and the fans started working and I thought that all was well. Didn't have much time to drive lately but I went for a ride yesterday, my wife and I stopped for dinner. We got in the car and went about 2 miles and the temp started rising again. I pulled over and I see this trail of fluid following me , with fluid leaking out by the passenger front and rear wheels. Filled with water, pulled the vent and drove home slowly with the AC on. I could hear the fans working and the temp didn't exceed the end of the 0 on 180. Just before I got home the fluid level light started flashing again. I pulled it into the garage and started filling it with antifreeze and it continued to run from the same 2 areas. I have a 98 w/tip and I replaced the cap on the coolant tank with an upgraded one about 3 years ago. Can anyone give me help on this as I am supposed to take a very long weekend in very early June to go to the Vitginia Pork Festival and cruise the state a little. A long trip in hot weather. I don't want to have to take the wife's Volvo. Thanks in advance for the help. ED

Ed, You have it backwards, you have to turn on the HEATER to cool the engine when it overheats, you want to draw heat from the system. The AC just puts another load on the engine and increases the heat. And I would also check the front radiator area for loose hoses or a pinleak. Also check your expansion tank if you haven't changed it yet, those puppies crack and get your rear trunk wet.

Paul

Thanks for the thought Paul. Time is also an issue, and location. To do the 60k I did it on jack stands in my 2 car garage. I also need to replace the front engine mount, which would be easier on a lift. I have access to a lift at the Army Base, and plan to do the engine mount next weekend. If I can get two shafts new and install them in a couple of hours, I can get rebuild kits later and over the Holidays rebuild them and store them in the garage. From my readings the 6 speed cars are hard on boots, so if I'm going to have to do this again in three years, I'd like to have the rebuilts ready to go. Just in case I do have a bad joint, or bad ball, or whatever, rebuilding them when I can wait for parts is a better deal. I believe Sunset parts said the outter jount comes with the axel, but the inner joint is available. Having a spare set bagged in plastic means I'll NEVER have another boot failure. Worse case, I can sell them as rebuilt on eBay if I never need them, or offer them with the car.

I've learned that driving cars that didn't come from Detroit means sometimes you need to keep spare parts. Thats why I have 2 Discovery drive shafts in the garage, easier to rebuild on my terms than when you HAVE to get to work in the morning.

How long do wheel beaqring last? Are yours 914's still original?

Thanks again, Chuck

Chuck,

The wheel bearings were another story, I have yet to replace them on my boxster as it only has 54K on it, on the 914, I am on the 3rd set on the front and second set on the back, that was a fun job!

Paul

Sunset says $450 per side whole new shafts/boots/everything. They also offer a "rebuild kit" for about $39 each joint which is a new boot, clamps, grease and such.

I would go ahead and get the rebuild kits, CV's last a long time.

I have had the same CV's on my '73 914 for 185,000 miles and only had to replace a couple of pitted balls the time before last, on the grease repack service.

If you question the condition, just clean and inspect and replace as needed as a unit (CV) They may seem difficult but easier than a Rubik's Cube!

Good Luck!

Paul

Hello...could someone PLEASE direct me to a site or to a technical service manual or something similar that explains how to change ALL of

the fluid in a tiptronic transmission? I need to learn how to change the fluid in the torque converter and differential.

I've searched...and can't find what I need.

Cheers

Mike

Try this link.

Paul

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203