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CJP80

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Posts posted by CJP80

  1. Hi All,

    My 987 seems to be clunking really badly over short bumps. It's both audible and can be felt through the steering wheel as a judder. There are lots of poor roads in the area and many cobbled streets, this is where I feel the issue the most.

    My steering has been like this since I picked the car up (8K miles), although it was made slightly worse by adding the 19" CS wheels. I would probably just have attributed the issue to those but I drove two other variants of the Boxster and Cayman recently, all with 19" wheels and they showed no signs of this problem over the same surfaces.

    Is this a known problem, anyone else with a similar experience?

    p.s. This is not apparent at high speed or on smoother surfaces.

    Thanks in advance!

    CJP

  2. Hi

    Has anyone bought wheels from this website?? I want to get these Boxster 987 Carrera S 19" wheels, but wondering if they are replica's or genuine factory OEM's??

    http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/pors...lid_wheels.html

    http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/info_4967.html

    These are Replicas...and they're not the cheapest out there either! Cheaper Replicas can be found here: www.design911.co.uk.

    If you are after OEM try: Jasmine-Motorsport

    You'll struggle to get 265/35/19 N rated tyres though....There seems to be a global shortage....I've opted to get a set of Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta. Evo magazine rated them above all of the N rated brands in their tyre test last year and they are £400 cheaper than the N rated equivalent.

  3. Hi Folks,

    Looks like the "modding" bug has bitten again as I am considering the PSE, but have been reading losts of good things about the Tubi, which apparently has a sweeter noise and actually adds power unlike the PSE, whilst retaining the ability to be switch on and off?

    Is this correct? Does anyone consider there to be a better alternative?

    Opinions welcome.

    Cheers,

    CJP80

  4. HEY, I am about to grab a set of used 19" Carrera S Wheels (8x19 57mm and 9.5x19 46mm) over the net ... now i am pretty sceptical whether the guy is selling his originals or replicas - he claimed originals.

    Also, does Porsche manufacture this wheels with various offsets and widths? or do they only make a standard 57mm/ 46mm and 8x19/ 9.5x19 respectively??

    I believe the Replicas have Made in Italy on them and lack the Porsche Part number which is usually cast on the wheel next to the tyre valve.

    The part numbers for the 19" Carrera S wheels are 987 044 602 05(6). The fronts have a 57mm offset and the rears 46mm.

    Porsche make two variations of this wheel. The other being a 11x19 for the 997, with a 295/35/19 tyre and offset of 71mm. I don't think that these fit the Boxster though.

  5. Most of the parts on a Porsche are actually made by external companies such as bilstein , sachs , delphi. The lights come from Kioto (japan) and are made in the czech republic. I would not be at all surprised if the replica and OEM wheels come from the same factory , the main difference being the replicas have a slightly different rim width, and do not have the Porsche part number on them. These differences are required as Porsche will tie up the manufacturer with contracts as sole suppliers. Only if the design is different can the supplier provide direct to the public. The main thing to check for peace of mind is if the replica items carry a TUV certificate or British Standard. Any parts supplied as aftermarket in Germany have to declare TUV certification , which is a guarantee that the part meets or exceeds OEM manufacturers quality. Even the OEM suppliers can sometimes get it wrong, a case in point being the Audi S4 wheel which was prone to cracking.

    If the wheel has been designed as a cast item, there should be no issue with an alternative supplier replicating it. Only when the design relies on a forged manufacture would a cast alternative raise some issues.

    Thanks for the response. I find your comments about the wheel width interesting. I have seen these Made in Italy wheels advertised on various sites as 9.5x19 and 10x19, although now I'm not convinced about the true widths. On that basis I've decided to spend the extra £900 and get the OEM wheels. At least I'll feel safe in the knowledge that if a wheel fails at 80mph then my £50K Porsche will be replaced by Porsche UK. If I come to sell my car in the future, I can always shift it to a dealer with the standard 18" wheels and sell the 19's privately.

    Thanks for the advice.

  6. Not all Porsche OE wheels are forged, most are of the cast variety. As I understand it, only the Turbo standard wheels are forged on the current models. Cost comes down to OE and dealer margins, but there is another factor.

    OE wheels have to survive/contribute to crash test results - as the front of the car deforms and the wheel well is compressed, the wheel is a critical structural member in the absorption of the crash impact. Regardless of the angle of the wheel at impact, it is a key aid in mitigating the deformation of the wheel well - and it's subsequent intrusion into the passenger footwell.

    You can't let a crash test be the sole factor in wheel purchase considerations, but there is usually a reasonable explanation for the expense of an OE wheel vs. the cheaper look-a-likes that are made in China, Taiwan or other low cost, minimal regulation manufacturing locales.

    Thanks for that. I am told that these are of the "made in Italy" variety and are as strong as the OEM wheels. Is it worth paying extra for the OE wheels in your opinion?

  7. I know this has been discussed in similar threads recently, but can someone tell me why the OEM wheels are so much more expensive than the replica offerings available.

    I was in the local dealership today investigating the possibility of adding 19" Carrera S wheels to my 987 Boxtser until the parts guy came back with a price of £2700!

    That's over $5000 to those of you in the USA.

    Are the Porsche wheels all forged? In the majority of cases, replica wheels are cast which I am led to believe is an inferior way of manufacturing. Is this correct?

    Many thanks

  8. Regarding the headers, most companies seem to offer tuned equal length extractor pipes combining to a single point , upstream of the first cat. From what I've read this reduces the burble from the exhaust and gives a more even note. I understand the thought process about keeping the rear silencer, this will impair the potential performance of the system but not to a significant amount as the rear silencers are not that restrictive compared to the cats. Personally in your position i would consider the Strosek or OEM PSE exhaust , which allows a more sporty sound that can be turned on an off at the flick of a switch. For an idea of cost versus performance gain take a look at the speedart and techart tuning pages. They offer ECU + air filter and ECU + Air filter + full exhaust options. This way you can compare performance for just the ECU and filter , versus a full system with ECU and filter.

    Regarding the cheap mod to the rear sleeve, its a simple job of loosening the upper of the two connecting sleeves that go between the two silencers. Then slide the sleeve over so that there is a small gap , 2mm is sufficient. Opening the gap further gives no improvement , just more boom at 2000 rpm on the motorway. A word of caution on this mod, make sure you put it back before getting an MOT , as the extra air drawn into the system by the break will upset the lamda measurement which is taken at the exhaust outlet. It will not effect the engine management lamda measurement as this is done either side of the primary cats way upstream of this mod.

    Thanks for this. Any chance of a photo showing the location. I'm completely new to Porsche!

    Cheers

    CJP

  9. Hi,

    I've had my car a few weeks now. Twice now I've had difficulty starting the car when the fuel light has just come on. The last time the range was reading 20 miles and I couldn't get the car started. Had to go get fuel. Again tonight, with 30 miles on the range I had problems with it starting. I had driven home along the motorway and the fuel consumption was up at 28mpg(UK), so there was probably little fuel in the tank.

    If the tank holds 64l then surely you should be able to go some way into the 'orange zone' before your car starts playing up?

    Any ideas, similar experiences?

    Cheers,

    CJP80

  10. Hi Everybody,

    I'm new to this forum having recently purchased my first Porsche - '07 987 GT Silver Boxster S (Ex Demo)

    I've had a good look through this site and there's some great information on here. I have a question though. I've seen references to accessing the engine compartment in the owners manual but can't seem to see it anywhere. Is there a guide on here with photos?

    Many thanks,

    CJP80

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