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binger

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Everything posted by binger

  1. binger
    You can have one of three things. intermittent open, high resistance, or a bad ground. Trying to fix your issue by bending the connectors in the fuse box is a band aid fix. You need to get the the root cause of your issue. You need the schematic for your car to trace from the coils wires to the junction box then the fuse box. Then you will need to do some voltage drop testing on each conductor that leads to the coils in question. Also look at the fuses for the coils check the connectors tips for hot spots.see picture below. Here is a case study on a car that would not charge. The shop replaced 3 alternators and 3 batters before I was called in to diagnose the issue. After several hours of tracing and testing I found a cheap fuse did not open. The thing that threw me off, It did not fry any of the wires that led to the fuse / junction box. Here is what I found. It got so hot for extended periods it melted the internal parts of fuse / junction box. Once I replaced the fuse with a quality part the fuse would open. If I put the original fuse back it would not open and would work intermittently until it got too hot. The fix was to replace a $700.00 fuse / junction box. I am not saying this is your issue. However you have to be a detective and prove each system for faults or no faults to eliminate throwing parts at it or jumping to conclusions.
  2. binger
    Hi Steve, Sounds like you have wiring, connector issue. Your going to need the schematic for your car to trace from the coils to the fuse box. Then you will need to do some voltage drop testing on each conductor that leads to the coils in question.
  3. binger
    Unless you have a proper Ignition Spark Tester do not just let the coli jump to ground. This could damage the Ignition system or the DME. Also I would not lube any connectors seals as your just adding one more problem in to the mix. OBD II codes let us know if an injector or 02 sensor coli etc. The codes to point us to where the problem might be. Then we have to test that system to prove if it is good or failed. That is why I ask about the exact codes you were getting. Back to basics, I would take a coil from one cylinder that is not misfiring and swap it for the one that is. This is a low tech way to be sure that the new coil is not defective. If that cylinder is still misfiring now you have to look at the connecters, wiring on that bank. That is if the codes are not fuel related.
  4. binger
    One clue you said you "unwrapped and re-wrapped the wiring to all of the coils and injectors"? Also what were the original codes you pulled.
  5. binger
    Are They Original Equipment Manufacturer parts or aftermarket?
  6. binger
    HI Steve, Did you replace with OEM coils or aftermarket coils?
  7. binger
    Are you going to install a new stock flashed DME or new aftermarket flashed DME?
  8. binger
    The instrument cluster is the CAN gateway module. AKA COMBI meter / Gateway. If you look at the PDF uploaded. Check out at the CAN topology. At the top is your COMBI meter / Gateway or "instrument cluster". The blue line is your high speed CAN that runs the most important systems in your car. then it splits down to red line medium speed that runs the body modules and so on. Hope this helps you understand a little more about how things work in CAN systems. CAN.pdf
  9. binger
    Try Becker auto sound OEM radios and have been very helpful in the past. http://www.beckerautosound.com/parts/index_porsche.html
  10. binger
    Look at Instrument Clusters Porsche Carrera 911 1997 - Dashboard / Instrument Cluster
  11. binger
    It depends on how they remapped the DME. It may not run great but If it fixes the starting issue you will know its the flash. Also I just looked at one of my venders I use for Instrument Clusters look whats at the top of the list. http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=hints_and_tips#porsche
  12. binger
    I agree with JPF & Silver TT, Regarding the aftermarket re flashing. I can tell you that most of the issues I see in the field is because of bad aftermarket components or poor workmanship. On the flip side I have a hunch. I see there is one thing in common with your issue your DME, PAS, PSM, ABS are all on the drive CAN bus that communicates though the combi/gateway (Cluster). You had said that the tech could could make it fail if playing with under dash splice pack. you also mentioned that "Thought I noticed the instrument back lighting not working also". If the OEM re flash dose not solve the issue I would check the connectors for those systems that lead to COMBI / Gateway. I would also suspect the COMB / Gateway (Cluster) is going south as its not uncommon for this car.
  13. binger
    I have some ideas however before I say anything I need some more info. Also before you condemn the DME lets go back to basics. Please give a full history of the car. How long have you owned it and when did you start having this issue? You say the all battery connections and grounds have been checked and cleaned. By who and did that person do a voltage drop test to both power & ground side of that system or just Ohm out the the system? It sounds like you sent out the DME to be re flashed by Champion Motorsport correct? The dealer did not do any testing or re flashing? Think about what changed in your normal routine when you moved to Utah besides the temperature.
  14. binger
    I totally agree Loren. One would think a dealer tech would have done that first since he DME tested and re-flashed, tech disconnected and cleaned all ground points and checked all relays.
  15. binger
    Are there any other aftermarket electronics in the car. IE: alarm, radio, nav.?
  16. binger
    What codes did the tech pull with PIWIS?
  17. binger
    There are two TSBs on this issue. see TSBs below. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=1201 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=1202
  18. binger
    Check your sway bar bushings. They can get dry and make a creaking sound. I know on 993s there was a TSB from Porsche on this issue.
  19. binger
    JFP Elegantly said! The sad thing is even so called professionals in our industry think pull the code change the part.
  20. binger
    Unfortunately simple leak-down tests wont show you this detail. the only way your going to see it is in the waveform. Most shops that do not have the hardware or expertise hire mobile dianostic guys like me to help. The dealer will just sell you a valve job and be done with it.
  21. binger
    Hi Ahsai, Only dynamic leak-down testing with a pressure transducer and a oscilloscope will reveal the valves are not sealing. It will also show you if the cams are out of time. I put a few links about pressure transducers and a oscilloscope testing below. It is very fast and powerful tool take a look. As for techron it is hit and miss however I have seen it help in the short term. On a side note. You will start seeing a lot of carbon issues coming up on all direct injection engines from every MFG in the near future. We are seeing valve jobs at 50k however the MFGs are trying to sweep it under the carpet. Lexus is one just pays for it under warranty and dose not tell the customer. GM, BMW, VW, Ford are trying to get to the bottom of how to solve it. I went to a drivability update training class a few months ago that focused on direct injection carbon issues.
  22. binger
    Looking at the fuel trim and cam data I agree Ahsai its within spec. I have seen this issue with exhaust valves not seating properly. It is more apparent when the motor is cold. you might have some carbon buildup on the valves. Since you have changed the coils and plugs and still misfiring on 3&6 I would run some Techron in your fuel system. The only way to really prove the root issue is with a pressure transducer and a oscilloscope. I have been running in to this issue a lot lately on low mileage cars that dont get run hard enough to clean them out. However the last car I diagnosed ran two tanks of fuel with Techron and lucked out not having to do a valve job.
  23. binger
    How many miles do you have on this motor?
  24. binger
    Loren knows Porsche cars better than anyone here. As he said start with cleaning the seat belt buckle contacts and connectors with good quality electronic contact cleaner. Also check your grounds. Then clear the codes. If the system dose not throw any codes your good to go. If you do throw any codes the female side buckle would be the next suspect. If you want to prove it you can make yourself a simulator with 2.5 ohm resister see picture. Unplug the belt buckle connecter and jump the pins on the harness side. This will simulate a good know buckle. Now try to clear the codes with your Durametric. If that works you have proven the passengers side belt buckle is the fault. REMEMBER: Before working on any SRS system (Airbag) remove the negative terminal side on the battery and wait at least 15 minutes for the capacitor to fully bleed off power.
  25. binger
    Current Fault Code 49 is exactly what Porsche points out. Have you checked and confirmed your VIN to the TSB? On page #2 Porsche give a range of VIN #s for measure A. On page #8 Porsche give a range of VIN #s for measure B. If your car fits in the VIN range I would say you’re a in need of what Porsche telling you to replace. If you want to prove the buckle you can use a simulator to bypass the failed buckle. However according to the TSB the connectors, power harness and ground harness also have an issue. If your not comfortable working on complex electrical components. I would leave it to a professional that works on airbag systems. If you do the repair yourself please remember. Before working on any SRS system (Airbag) remove the negative terminal side on the battery and wait at least 15 minutes for the capacitor to fully bleed off power.
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