binger

Hi  Dherrick,

The green connector you are referring to should be 32pins. From my old notes the there are two MFGs that make that connector, Tyco and AMP.  The MFG part number I have is   this is for the green cover. The inner part # that would need two to complete the unit. I have found some dealers that might have them in the USA. If not they they look like they are available in Europe you will need to call around.

https://octopart.com/1-929409-1-te+connectivity-45284620

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1 hour ago, neoplanet said:

I've checked the SAIs.  The filters and impellers are fine.  Yeah, it is quite easy to check.  Just that center screw.

 

And OH!  I see.  It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do.  It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing!  Makes sense now.  Thanks a lot for this info!

 

I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test.  New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts.  Then it came on and sure enough, the fuse was blown.  What I'm finding is that I also have a vacuum leak so the brake booster vacuum pump is running (It's relay is also on this 5A circuit).  So, I think just everything (SAI, vacuum pump, electric coolant pump) coming on at the same time when it is cold is just spiking the draw through that one fuse (plus the low-er battery voltage on cold start due to sitting (there is no other drain, checked that for an hour at shop) and cold oil I suppose).

 

 I checked the current TO the relays and found it to draw 0.15A when the vacuum pump goes on.  To be expected.  All the relays draw about that much.  So I can't imagine how these 3 perfectly good relays are spiking it to over 5A even when all go on at once.  But the indication is that this is so.  Maybe the inductive load or something, I don't know.  I'm going to fix the vacuum leak and get that pump to stop going on and see if that solves the problem.  I saw somewhere else someone saw a spike up to 6A on this circuit.  I have put a 10A fuse in there for now but I am not sure what could be damaged if it goes above 5A and why only a 5A fuse.  A "slow-blow" would be nice but I don't think they make those for cars.

 

Thanks everyone for all your input.  I'll carefully do that drive cycle 2x and report back if I get through the smog check.

I would not use a 10A fuse on that circuit! The engineers designed it with 5A fuse. You have an intermittent B+ short to ground that needs to be traced and fixed ASAP. Now that you have over fused the circuit the next time the short happens you will fry the loom! 

Neoplanet, Anshu,

JFP is 100% correct. I have attached drive cycle documentation so you can wrap your head around it better. The key to remember, that all criteria must be met before all the monitors will run. IE: The gas tank must be a least 1/4 tank full and no more then 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 RPM or 60 MPH during any portion of the drive cycle!   Once you have completed the first drive cycle the vehicle must cool down until its stone cold before you can start the second drive cycle. 

As for your fuse issue I would check the switch side of the relay for short to ground. IE: Pitched wire, Chafed wire, loose wire. Check the relay too! I would also check to see how many amps the SAI is pulling and see if its within specs. Hope this helps.   

There is more criteria that must be met before all the monitors will run. The gas tank must be a least 1/4 tank full and no more then 3/4 full for monitors to run.

You must also run a minimum of 2 drive cycles to run and set all monitors from a cold motor. Trying to run2 drive cycles on the same day will not work for the DIYers.    

I found one more source. scroll down the page and look for  1-to-6 Way Weather-Proof Multi-Connector Kits

http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

This website should have what your looking for. Just match your plug and pin out. 

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/advanced_search_result.php?x=0&y=0&search_in_description=1&keywords=porsche

Please pull the rubber boot and look for other part numbers. You might have to remove the plug and look at the other side too. Also take a picture of the pin out of the female side. 

9 hours ago, mffarrell said:

Yes. My dealer suggested that I go to BMW

Can you please post a picture of the plug that include all the number? I might be able to come up with a source. 

Its a simple formula. Divide the odometer mileage by the operating hours you will have an average MPH.

Example: 12,000 Miles / 917 Operating Hours = 13 MPH

Most cars will average between 30 - 50 MPH depending on how much traffic it is driven in so the value of 13 MPH indicates there could be a discrepancy.

+2. I  have a diagnostic business and own both PIWIS 1,  PIWIS 2 and Durmetric scan tools.Nothing wrong with Durmetric as "JFP said it's a excellent tool"!  If you want to work on automobiles you will need a PC running windows. All the OEMs use windows based software. Macs wont cut it that's the reality. 

Its not simple to a shop that dose not how to do it. Or have the correct tooling to work on these cars!

That's not a proper diagnoses. AOS needs to connected a digital manometer in place of your oil cap and measure the vacuum in the engine case; on cold start it should vary between 4-7 inches of water, but when warmed up should read 5 inches. There is no way to visually diagnoses this system. Hope you did not pay them for that!

To properly diagnose this issue you will need a Manometer to read the vacuum signal in inches of water. As JFP said it should not be more than 5 inches of water for the AOS to pass. 

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/Manometers/Digital/Series476A-478A

this is the one you need SERIES 476A Single Pressure.

I tried the calibration and nothing really seemed to change. I haven't checked the sensor but I stumbled across something this morning. It was running rough like it does every cold morning barely idling. I removed the oil fill cap and it made the sound of pulling a lot of vacuum and then the car died. Related maybe?

That is the tell tail sign that your AOS has failed and needs to be replaced.

Dears,

I desperately needs you help. My car is not working since 2 days, i tried to recharge the battery but it the battery seems just fine cause all the lights are on. Both keys are not working so i had to open the car by the key. Then the alarm is on and i tried to start the ignition but it wont work. Is it key or battery issue?

 Mia,

We need some more info. Did the car battery die? You claim both keys are not recognized. Do you have this message on the cluster? If this is the case both keys will need to be reprogrammed in to the immobilizer system by a PIWIS tool. 

What tool are you using to program?

I agree with Ahsai the tech waited too long and the CAN / k-line bus went to sleep. We always put the hazards flashers on so the bus will stay awake.

SHRTFTB1S2 =short term fuel trim bank1 sensor 2

SHRTFTB2S2 =short term fuel trim bank2 sensor 2

I don't believe that is true cause I read on HF website user ratings and they said you must do the update to get the latest version that will support more vehicles and bug fixes IE WiFi updates etc...

Unless they changed there policy I know they did not support anything that was purchased from HF. I know someone that ordered an DS708 from HF and then called the MFG to ask if they would support it. He was given a cold NO from Autel we do not support and we will not update. From what I have heard from my scan tool suppler that Autel was bringing the new tool line to market and was phasing out the DS708. They sold there surplus to HF with the intent not to support it. However if you buy from there dealers like aeswave you will get full support and updates.  

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

 

My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home.  When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. 

Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.

 

It can be an oil cooler, but often is not.  Do not run or drive the vehicle, get it on a flatbed into the shop ASAP. Some diagnostic test (leak down, etc.) are needed that most DIY are not prepared to handle.

 

Mine was a head gasket. Coolant never boiled.

 

It's a bit strange though that your "coolant warning came on" as in my experience this is an indicator of coolant level being low. If so, where'd it go? Ground? Engine - oil? And, you have oil in the coolant.....

 

So complete a leak down test, but to be very frank running a leak down test is the easy part, correctly diagnosing the issue on a Cayenne V8 is a little more of an art. Check your compression as well.

 

Also, you may think about making a donation to this forum.

 

Regards,

Rik881,

You have asked for advise and not taken it from two people that have first hand experience with this issue. More then likely you have a blown head gasket and or cracked head /block. The beige/brown milkshake that you have described is the first telltale signs of that kind of issue. As a diagnostic tech you need to find the root cause. This can not be properly done by a DIYer. If you must prove to yourself what all of us are saying this is one option below. I hope this will get you to a professional to properly diagnose your issue.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-75500?seid=srese1&gclid=CMmE4ve3pcMCFYhbfgod350ApA

OP: just got the regular offer email from Harbor Freight and saw that the DS708 is down to $1100 and I assume that you could use a 20% off coupon to reduce the price still further.

Just keep in mind that the DS708 that comes from Harbor Freight has no support or updates.

9x6 done on our bench with our emulator box. We do legal mileage correction on any cluster. I am just showing you what we did on a 9X6. Sorry for the confusion.

IMG_2575.MOV

IMG_2578.MOV

IMG_2580.MOV

 I am with JFP!  You could have purchased a new pan for $250 new or got one from the bone yard for less than 1/2 that price.

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/2004/Touareg/Oil-pan--OIL-SUMP/5170515/09D321361A.html

What are the codes?

We are in total agreement the using the proper scan tools are the way to go. That's why I have $150,000.00+ invested in OEM tools and subscriptions. My point is its only a guide to point you in a direction. Its not a silver bullet or magic tool that solves the issue at the press of a button. Once you get the codes you need to know what they mean or not as they could  also throw you off of the right path. I guess what I am trying to say once you get the codes you need to prove it out before throwing parts at it.