binger

I agree its probably not the cluster but its part of the system that's I put it in the mix. We fix clusters and that is not an issue with the ones I have come across. The the reason I did not say anything about pulling codes is a lot of shops out there that claim they specialize in Porsche don't even have Durametric. The other problem out there is the new techs even at the dealer they rely on OBDII too much. A lot of the 25+ gold master techs at Porsche have to show them how to diagnose the old school way and the newer guys are resistant to learn. The method I mentioned is one of the best and fastest ways to prove if the sensor is good or bad with out putting a part on the car. It is also faster the any other OEM diagnostic tree I have seen.    

From what you told us it sounds like both mechanics are parts changers. You need to get to the root issue before you invest 20 hrs of money and find out its a connector, bad wire or cluster. If I were doing the diagnosis I would start by looking at the Ohm specs of the sensors. Porsche will give Ohm specs= level 1/4, 1/2, full tank of oil as a reference.

I would then pull the suspect sensor connecter and substitute it with a resistance decade box. IE: A box that can substitute any Ohm value. I use this tool a lot to prove out bad sensors with out buying parts and saving unneeded labor costs. Now you can pinpoint if that sensor is bad or good. If the substitute Ohm value matches Porsche Ohm specs the sensor is good and you have to start looking at connectors, wires, or the cluster.

This is what I would say to your mechanic. If you are so sure that the sensor is bad I am willing to pay you for all parts and labor. However if it dose not fix my issue I will pay for parts and you refund me all unnecessary labor cost. The bottom line, someone that know how to diagnose this needs to be found.  Just my 2 cents. Hope this

helps.

PS: this is what a decade box looks like.

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-380400-Resistance-Decade-Box/dp/B00023RTZO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y

Hi Alex,

It is not recommended to reuse any SRS parts at all. It not worth the headaches of having to replace the used part or lose your life or loved ones life to save some $$.   

Get the real one not an eBay clone. FYI clones have been know to brick DMEs its not worth it.

 

The battery gauge in my 996 MY99 6 speeds won't just shows close to 11 v. Checked the battery while the car was off and shows 12.70+ v. Checked battery in idle and it shows 14 + v. So, the battery is OK as well as the charging system. What could be wrong?

 

God forbid, in the event is not a fixable issue and the cluster needs to be replaced, the odometer millage is stored in the cluster or in the car's computer?  If in he car's computer, guess any compatible cluster, regardless of the millage the seller says it has, shouldn't be a problem and it will show the real millage of the car?

 

 

Thanks

 

The dash gauges in these cars are not known for their accuracy, so I would not be overly concerned.  Swapping out the cluster requires buying a new one (read $$$$) and having the system programed to the correct mileage using a PST II or PIWIS.

 

Hi JFP,

Just so you know we can take used clusters and do mileage correction at a fraction of the cost of a new cluster. Its plug n play no programing needed.  We have a lot of other services that you might find useful. PM me if you want to get more info.

PS: I also agree with RFM i would start to test the wiring/connectors for excessive resistance first.

Don't waste your money on another generic scan tool. Porsche has specific codes that can not be read with that kind of tool. You will need to use a Durametric scan tool or go to a shop that has a PIWIS. The best bang for your buck is the enthusiast kit for $287.00. You should also know that PO441 Evap code is not an easy code to solve even for the pros that have all the correct tools. You might just want to find a good Indy to track it down for you.

http://www.durametric.com/    

Hi GForce83,

If you have not replaced your lock assembly yet I have a nice used one for $100.00 + shipping.

Hi Lakeview3,

I just wanted to give you some more information on why this is a tough project. The old days of mixing and matching Porsche is long gone! There are too many modules in cars now that have to communicate with each other. It can be done its just not practical.

Here are some facts you need to know. The 2000 9X6 has a 7.2 DME and the 1999 Boxster has a 5.2.2 DME. not an easy plug and play combo as the pin outs are different and totally different fuel mapping, etc. You also will need to add wires and or start modifying and fabricating your own custom looms for this nightmare. Lets say you did all the above, now the car goes to a shop to get a diagnosis for something. the tech see its a 2000 9X6 and tries to scan it with PIWIS. Hes going to get an error because the scanner dose not recognize any of the modules and might get a software/firmware error because its a 5.2.2 Boxster DME. Don't get me wrong it can be and has been done but you asked for some input.  Good luck with whatever you decide to do.    

To be honest what you want to do is a nightmare of a protect. I have been professionally working on Porsche for 29 years and would not want to even think about building a Franken car for myself. let alone having it come back back from a buyer that cannot get anyone to work on it once they figure out what was done. Sorry thats just my 2 cents.

Hi Rennrob,

Don't drive yourself crazy. JFP is giving you sound advise he has done hundreds of these if not a thousand over the years he has been in the business. By calling the dealer you are going to get miss information as you are asking a parts guy that has never worked on a car in his life and if he did he would be a tech. Just my 2 cents.     

I dont know if you need this but it might help.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock.htm 

Also if you need the part call

Jesse South

Sunset Porsche Parts

Toll Free: 800.346.0182

Direct: 503.644.2012

jessesouth@sunsetimports.com

Hey guys -

 

I'm running into a strange problem where when I turn my car off and take my key out, my electrical system stays on until I hear a mechanical click. I'm assuming this is from the lock assembly. Sometimes that click takes a few seconds, sometimes it's prolonged to a few minutes. I've replaced the ignition switch before and it seems to have worked for a few weeks, but then the problem returns. Does this mean it's the lock assembly?

I have no problems starting my car or pulling the key out, only when I try to turn off the car. 

Also, not sure if this piece of information is important, but when I take the key out, I can't put the key back in until I hear the click. 

Thanks for your help!

Hi GForce83,

Your issue is the lock assembly intermittently sticking internally. The system stays powered up until you pull the key out of the ignition. You can try to take it apart and spray some lucubration in the mechanical part that locks the wheel. However if it were mine I would just replace the lock assembly as the R&R time is not worth going back for seconds. Hope this helps.    

How many miles on the car?

If it were mine I would put a relay in it. By jumping the relay and it started you proved that it has an intermittent issue or its gone south as of now.

since you have no codes and your up and running drive it until it happens again .Also If you dont have an extra relay you might want to get one to keep in your glove box.Its cheep insurance.

I would check your fuel pump relay and fuse to start.

If your up to it there is a DIY for the fix.

Part ->>>>> http://www.odometergears.com/products/Porsche/911-993+94-98/72

Two common issues with the 993. Your P1411 common Secondary air injection fault code on cylinders 4-6. The passages get blocked from coking buildup. Your speedometer is another common issue where the small gear inside deteriorates over time and breaks. Sometimes it will be intermittent but will fail soon. We use

North Hollywood Speedometer for that fix. Hope this helps.

http://nhspeedometer.com/911/service_restorations/1.htm

porphy,

Dont feel stupid thats why you come here to learn. Working on cars is a journey of learning even for professionals. Never be afraid to ask a question here.

What is the size of the Torx bit to remove the seat bracket bolts? I tried a 50 and even though it worked on one it seems too small and slipped on the second one.

The reason its slipping It is not Torx. You need a 10MM 12 point triple square bit.

https://www.google.com/search?q=triple+square+bit&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

Sorry I dont mean to be harsh but we call that a parts changer not a mechanic. You need find a proper tech to diagnose your issue.

There are several professional kits on the market. However you are going to pay $175.00 to$250.00. They dont just sell the tubing by the foot and the connectors / adapters separately. For the cash you would lay out for the kit it would be better off just to buy the part from Sunset Porsche

JFP & Silver TT are right on track. One more note to add you should look at the fuel trims to be sure that the DME has fuel control. If one or more of the o2 sensors, injectors, fuel pump, vacuum leaks / pirate air, are giving bad feedback to the DME that could damage or even kill your Cat. Cats do not fail that often unless there is lack of fuel control or the internal honeycombs break apart from time. I would make sure you check all of your systems are working correctly. Dont just bolt on a good Cat and kill it. I have seen more techs in the field diagnose P0430 code, not do there home work and throw $$$$ by killing a brand new Cat.

Your just asking for trouble. I would use an OEM horn if I were you.

I would not worry about any erroneous from REV program on the iPhone. The only scan tools that mean anything for Porsche is Durametric, PST2, PIWIS.