chuck

Has anyone heard of the immobilizer unit to cause the starting problems? I have replaced the ignition switch several times and I still get the same problem when starting the car. It seems that I have to hold the key in start for several seconds before the engine turns. Has anyone experienced this before or heard of the immobilizer causing this problem?

I replaced my ignition a couple of times using E-Bay specials after having similar starting problems. I finally bought an OEM Audi switch and it has been fine for a year and a half. The switchs I bought on E-Bay were either unmarked or just had the part number but no Audi logo.

Hi- the emergency trunk release cable issue has been nagging me for awhile (MY 97) but I hadn't got around to R&Ring the bumper. I tried reaching it around the fender liner but no luck so pulled out the passenger side headlight unit (USA) and the cable was coiled and taped in the pocket where the light came out of. I was able to thread it through the tow loop hole easily. I plan to shorten the cable and attaching it to a small plastic dowel that will prevent the cable from sliding out of the tow hole.

Hi- 97 base boxster w/40K miles. Ignoring costswhich would be a better choice for a street only shock- Bilstein HD or the OEs?

thanks chuck

Hi- I have a 97 base Boxster with 40K miles, the ride seems normal on smooth bumps but on sharp ripples and patched road it doesn't seem to dampen things out. 40K seem like a pretty short shock life but am looking for an opinion. If the answer is newshocks would Bilstein HD be a good choice or stick with OEs. "Springsandshocks" (on e-bay) has a set for $750 with free shipping has anyone dealt with them?

Thanks Chuck

Hi-My 97 boxster (40K miles) has a random "won't start problem. The key turns ,isn't sticky or hard to remove, the dash lights come on and after turning the key once or twice will crank and start.

This is what I have done so far:

Jumpered out the clutch switch-

Changed out the ignition switch (Audi Part).

Things went well for a few weeks and it is happening again?

I have another new switch but looking for ideas before doing it again.

Thanks Chuck

Do you mean 986.351.939.15?

Those would be the front brake pads for a normal Boxster (non-S).

Loren thanks, there is a set of OEM front pads on E-Bay (#330152721169) that has the 986 351 930 15 p/n stamped on them that came in a box with the 986 351 939 15 p/n on it. I couldn't find it in an old PET catalog- perhaps a miss stamp?

Chuck

Hi- could you tell me what brake pads with part number 986-351-930-15 are used on?

I want to replace my laptop based OBD-II scanner for a hand held unit. Been thinking about getting the Actron CP9135 for about $180.00. Anybody have one or could recommend a hand held model?

thx...

Jim

Autozone has the Actron CP9135 for approx $99- the CP9145 which reads live data is about $199 from Amazon.

Does anyone have an Actron CP9145 ? My question is, is the live data feature worthwhile? I'm interested in looking at MAF readings- I don't have a laptop.

Hi- I keep seeing loose throttle bolts as a cause of CELs -Are these the four bolts that attach the throttle body to the "intermediate piece" (the tee that splits to the two manifolds)?

Just a vent line that goes nowhere. Nothing to worry about.

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Loren- Thanks

When checking the power steering fluid level I noticed a short hose coming out of the neck of the "tank" that didn't appear to connect anywhere, nor did it look like it had been. It is about 3/8" OD by 3" to 4" long. Been chasing a 1128 cel so I want to leave anything to chance.

Sorry I should have added that the fronts are 7" ET 55 s and I think that is stock. What I meant by rubbing when Jacked up is the tire is rubbing on the strut bar.

I'm looking at a set of factory 996 wheels for my 97 boxster, will they fit? They are 17x7, 17x9, offset 55mm, bolt pattern 5x130, tires 205/50, 255/40. Will I need spacers or make room in wheel well? Can they just bolt on and go? Any info will help

Thanks

Steve

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I have 17" 996 rears on a my97 Boxster (9" ET55) and one side rubs slightly and the other is very close WHEN JACKED UP ONLY- I am adding 5mm spacers.

that is indeed the part i speak of.  does it exist as a part of a larger part?  say, a middle console or something?

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The part # I gave you was on the slip from Sunset. This is a complete assembly Which comes as a unit consisting of: Shift Boot (bag) which has the plastic frame inside, sewn to this is the leather covered shift knob which consists of the inner rubber knob and the 5 speed emblem. Installation was easy- snap-up the boot frame with fingers and twist the shift knob back and forth while pulling up. Talk to the folks at sunset they are great!

I was wanting to replace the shifter bag on my '99 986.  It's starting to look a little worn out.  Does anyone know the part number for this?  Is this an easy change out?  Thanks for the help.

Oops, just realized i but "bad" instead of "bag" in the topic heading.  Hopefully everyone can figure it out! 

:cheers:

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Just replaced the complete unit on my MY 97 (boot with plastic frame,and mushroom knob w/5 speed emblem) for 54.08 at Sunset. P/N 986-424-075-02-EAN (?) (This is a plain all black assembly) Prior to this I bought one on-line for approx. $85 and that was, in my opinion junk! It did not include the plastic frame or 5 speed emblem- and the stitching was very very poor compared to the OEM (waited 5 weeks too). I think install is covered in other posts but it was pretty easy.

not sure what cause this loose sound at the front by the fuel tank ,under the batteries tray,which is hard to reach and find out ,this is what i do ,jack the car up ,and strongly hold the wheel and shack it ,you will hear the dry noise rolling clunk ,clunk ,almost sound like a bolt is rolling back and forth,i don't think it's inside the fuel tank ,other wise you can't hear it in side the fuel tank ,i have remove the underneath cover can't see much ,no sure is anyone got the  diagram to looked at ?very appreciate if someone can help .thank's

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Have a similar noise- sounds like a socket head screw rolling around in the fuel tank. I can produce it by pushing sideway on the front wheel (car on ground) If I track it down will post.

...and you did get longer wheel bolts right?

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Loren- I called and cancelled the order for the two spacers and the 10 longer wheels bolts and ordered the Kit as you have suggested and have shown in this post. Many thanks to you and all who have helped.(The kit is $292 )

May I ask how much you paid for the set?

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Stefan they were $44.02 each for spacers, $5.61 each for wheel screws and I'm not sure how much the two little screws were.

Make sure you get the kit with the longer bolts (000 044 500 09).

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Loren- I just ordered spacers/bolts for the rear is there a reason to add them to the front also ?

I have a set of these and had the same problem.  A pair of 5mm spacers takes care of it.

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Thanks- Sounds like 5mm spacers and screws are a good way to go I will try Sunset they have been great to deal with.

can u show some photos :)

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Sorry I don't have any photos, Thanks

Hi- I have a MY97 Boxster that I bought used with 9inch ET55 wheels on the rear (Pt#996-362-128-00). I noticed when jacking up the passenger side to remove the wheel there is a slight rubbing of the tire against the strut bar (no rubbing on drivers side but very little clearance). There are no rub marks in the wheel well or on other components. I've put about 3K street miles on since purchase. My question is, is this a safe set-up and has anyone had experience with this set up? Thanks