jpflip

I think we got now a specialist in troubleshooting the variocam plus! Again keep us inform of your finding and also if you had to replace the hydraulic valve.... Thanks Andres for your post and valuable information.

Why don't you just do like you did with the other valve in your previously post. Apply 12 volt on the connector of the hydraulic valve while the engine is running at idle and see if there is a change in engine rpm or if the engine is rumbling. It is exactly what Durametric would do. And if there is a change you know your problem is wiring to the DME. If there is no change you know it is the valve either dirty or malfunctioning....You getting closed to a solution Andres!

An please Andres keep us inform of the progression....

Sorry but I was not able to found the removal and installation of this unit. The one for the tappets is in the repair manual but not the one for the cams. I have found good pictures on Imagine auto site Engine removal. It will give you exactly the location and a good view of the unit itself...On the second picture the valve is in the top right corner but is it possible to check it with engine in place...I don't know and I cannot check on my car because it is in hibernation....

f...

What you did with sensor #23 was perfect troubleshooting. Don't be discourage you were just looking at the wrong hydraulic valve. Let me do some search about this actuator ccamshaft hydraulic valve....Be back....

Thanks RFM I feel better now... Poor IceYankee-Tsi you have to start all over again and you probably will found out a faulty hydraulic valve or better just dirty.... Anyway the part# is 996-105 -363-71 and it is about $163.00...Sorry this replied came before I have read your last post IceYankee...

I am now a bit confused about the proper hydraulic valve you are testing because the one on the top of the cylinder head #25 of the parts catalog is for valve lift and #23 on the side of the head is for valve duration. Isn't that one you should test ? Because the fault P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible it is not the valve lift as per P1344 or P1348.... Sorry for the confusion I am just trying to understand and help....To me the item #25 is the hydraulic valve to operate the tappet to get 3.6 mm or 11 mm lift and item # 23 is to retard or advance the camshaft....Don't hesitate to tell me if I am in the mud :unsure:

Interesting subject. I have found in the wiring diagram that there is nothing between the valve itself and the ECU. You must now do a continuity check between those two. I added 3 pics. One for the wire connection to the valve. The second one the wire connection to the ECU or DME and the plug number. And the third one is the color code. Hope this help. Please keep us inform and good luck.

Wow. Thanks a lot. Seems to be a good project.... Good luck JJBravo and keep us inform of your progression!

Do you think it is possible to post it somewhere....Or to download it somewhere?

Look at this picture of my car before I start working on it. Is it of any help?

Just did a small visit on your site Wross and I was amazed by your beautiful turbo. Congratulation. House and neighbourhood look also amazing. Thanks for your fast reply. You give me another option to look at and I will do some more search on EVO accessories. Sorry I don't have a tuner and I don't know anyone in my area (Montreal Canada).There are many for Honda Civic but none for Porsche that I know. Like you said some more homework required....Thanks, J.P. (Also Macaddicted)

I am planning to do two little (modest) mods . First I am going to order the Samco hose kit which include the intercooler hoses (in red) and the F hose for the diverter valves (Ebay right now $749.00) or should I order agency power ones from Vivid at 719.00 f hose not included. Need to put little color in the engine compartment... I would like to replace the stock diverter valves that can fail according to many owners. I am not planning in the near future to get an increase in horsepower or any ecu flashing etc. Any suggestion for diverter valves that will be good for me. I saw many types (I am a bit confused different springs, different springs colors some got extra port like the agency power etc) but are they all for higher boost or is there any for "normal" operation better than the OEM ones ?....Thanks a lot for your info, J.P.

Did it as per requirement on this DIY and also the other recommendation from you folks and it make my life a lot easier. I did the four points. Turbos (2), crankcase, tank. But I have to admit I did a mess. I was not ready for the high presssure flow coming out of the tank after removing the plug... Little mess in my driveway... Thanks for your help.

Amazing project. Thanks for sharing...

Did you look at these two TSB's 7018 and 5717 may be it will help....

Did the same and It will be part of my annual check up list. Clean-up time...

Ok I see....It is now cold in Montreal and I don't have the growling noise anymore... May be it can be also related to the grade of oil since the oil is thicker when it is cold... Anyway I am doing the oil change this week because my car will be store from november first to may first...I will also dismantle the valve to look at it and let you know....Thanks gain, J.P.

Okay... heres the deal! I picked up the part at my Porsche dealer. Part #996 207 012 74. I pulled it out of the box and it has the same part number on it as the old part with even the same green dot. I pulled the part off my car and checked the valve inside. It was closed as it should be and moved freely. I felt the tension and it felt the same as my new part. I looked for signs of wear at the o-ring seal and it looks fine. The part is a pain to remove so since I was there anyway I installed the new part. I dont know if it's made a difference yet as I still have the car down for some mods... K24/18g turbo's, 5 bar fuel pressure regulator, GT2 Intercoolers, ECU upgrade and a spark plug change. I will let you know if there's a difference with the new valve but so far it doesn't look too promising. :huh:

Thanks for the replied Rick. I did my oil change yesterday and did like you, remove the valve and it look completely normal to me so I just reinslalled it. Again it is really strange now I don't have the growling because it is cold here. I wonder if all this is not related to oil viscosity...Anyway the new oil is now Mobil 0W40 and only in may I will be able to test it because my car is now hibernating....Thanks for the info, J.P.

Ok I see....It is now cold in Montreal and I don't have the growling noise anymore... May be it can be also related to the grade of oil since the oil is thicker when it is cold... Anyway I am doing the oil change this week because my car will be store from november first to may first...I will also dismantle the valve to look at it and let you know....Thanks gain, J.P.

Yes, the number listed on my post is the number of the part still on my car (the original part???) and I will replace it with the new part next week. I am changing spark plugs and adding some go fast parts as well. I will check to see it the valve is stuck open after I remove it and let you know. I'm still trying to find out if the part on my car now is the original factory installed part??? :rolleyes:

Thanks Rick I am waiting for your replied, J.P.

Here is a link for your info Type1-2 over rev. Look at Wross996TT links. Very good info but people don't agree on type 2 definition...Just to give you an idea I purchase my car without interrogating the ECU and look what I have found after purchasing the Durametric software:

Ouch : type 1 65535/1248 h (65535 which is the highest number the ECU will register. It stop at this number)

type 2 67 / 1197h

I touch wood, the car is running strong and the oil consumption is normal....

Rickeager Please look here Growling on start. You are saying that you order a new one does it mean the number you found is the old one or it is already modify. If you are replacing it yourself please let me know if the old one was stuck in open position and if there a way to reposition the valve or clean it to get it to operate normally. Thanks, J.P.

You got it it is Pentosin CHF202 and it is about $18.75 a liter at Pelican part....

Impressive work. Very professionnal result. Congratulation. I guess you have an autoclave. Is it at home or at work that you can do this specialized work ? How many coat or carbon fiber fabric did you used to get this result...J.P.

I live in New York and I am contemplating by first winter with a 2003 Turbo. Not sure if I'll put on a set of all weather tires and see how well the four wheel drive handles the snow or make it a garage queen for the winter. Either way, thanks for the info. I have the Porsche battery charger as well and just used it on a recent week and a half away from home.

Some people seems to have a lot of fun with this car in the snow especially the european Porsche TT owners that I met but here in Montreal they used too much salt on the street and I prefer to stay away from this corrosive environment....Have a great winter,J.P.