jpflip

ant_8u had a lot of problems with these bolts. He's very good at wrenching and very friendly. May be you should ask him here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/259577-exhaust-nuts-totally-corroded.html

Loren got a good point unless you know that you have created a short by mishandling a live wire....I was trying to found a part number for the fuse and only found a kit for over $28.00. Item 13...May be there is a number on the fuse and you can get it from the dealer....

Current distributor location in the repair manual page 1773 + removing and installing fuses in the current distributor page 1778.

Did a correction for the model years. The info I am giving you are applicable for all models according to the wiring diagrams, 2001 and 2002 + models....

On all models, .the fuse are all side by side D1 power window D2 rear defogger D3 sun roof....Take a good look at the condition of the fuse box and also those three fuses. Also, if you got a voltmeter, look if you got power to the D1-2-3 row of the fuse box. The power for these three fuses come from the current distributor and If you don't have any power you have to go to the current distributor (under the dash passenger side) and look for a fuse of 80 amps. It is the third one from the left according to the wiring diagram. Look if you got continuity. If not just replace this 80 amps fuse.... First time that I see this kind of failure ??? Hope this help. Please keep us up to date with your findings....

I don't see any relay in the wiring diagram for seat heating. Only a fuse A6 and a control unit located under the seat. You better do a resistance check of your back cushion and seat bottom...

Ok I see, you are looking at major concern. In that case you should look at this thread from haulinkraut and the links he is referring to: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-turbo-forum/628070-can-we-lay-all-the-cards-on-the-table-with-996tt-engine-concerns.html

Porsche Doc has a very good thread about cam rings failure: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-turbo-forum/600739-error-code-p1325.html

The problem with cam failure is you need very expensive special tooling to time the cams at reinstallation....

Agree with the last post from JFP and please be very careful when you read in certain forums about the TT engine being bulletproof. Many people on 6speed, Rennlist and Renntech discover the fact the TT can be very expensive to maintain or to keep alive......

Don't get me wrong, I love my car but very early found that I need the repair manual asap and a good place to get parts at a good price ;-) And people like here on Renntech to help me for troubleshooting.....

Since you are a contributer of Renntech, you can look at this thread. It is a collection of issues I was able to collect from Renntech and 6speed. Remember , forums reach world wide owners ;-)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/252-the-porsche-996-twin-turbo-potential-issues/

Correct JFP, Excellence February 2011 page 125 to 130....

I did not had a chance to work on too many TT's but did a lot of work on mine including engine removal and coolant pipes welding.

For a long time I had coolant smell and did not see any drop on the floor but a very small quantity was lost... I also did a pressure check and it was almost completely tight but a very small lost of pressure ( 1 pound for 20 minutes) that I attribute to the tool I was using. One day, before storage for winter, decided to do a very deep inspection and found a very small leak (white powder, dry coolant) after removing the air box and the intake. It was one of the coolant pipes on the water pump housing. Very hard to see, because of limited space and the pipe did not pop out because also of limited space.... And the fluid was trapped on top of the engine and eventually evaporate.

Believe it or not even after all this work I still got, sometimes, coolant smell. I feel paranoid about it the first time and did some other inspections but did not found anything. I guess we can consider this being normal on TT's. I also replace the expansion tank cap with the latest model, was 99610644701 and now 99610644704 but the smell is still there....

The normal boost pressure, depending of barometric pressure, is .7 bar. I see most of the time .6 on my car , also completely stock.

The cable is on the right hand side, the forward top portion. You have to pull hard on it to release the latch. The cable is exactly the one on the picture (arrow) but further aft because now the picture show the front bumper cover removed....

That was a very good year 2012 review! I enjoy the reading. I was not so lucky in the Porsche museum this summer, here was not a single 996 in the place ;-) Happy new year and keep us inform of your TT adventure!

Thanks Ronny, Happy new year!

Beautiful cars! And the pictures are really nice of this yellow Mazda also! Congratulations and Welcome to RennTech!

AMAZING!!! Happy new year Pierre and many many more miles for 2013! Of course in good health!

Pierre, I can understand a hose but you should ask why they want to replace the reservoir, which is the expensive part! How many miles now with your famousTT?

Sorry. no easy way...It is hidden behind the heat shield....

Going to check bracket. What about solenoid itself? Replace out of caution at same time as bracket?

They don't fail often. Just the bracket should be fine.... If you have durametric it is possible to trigger this function and see if it is working properly.

According to the OBDII manual there are two possibilities. Throttle body dirty, which is not your case since it is new and the other possibilities is the MAF. And they ask you to do the MAF basic test mention here:http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/200-maf-basic-test/. But if you did not have this fault before, it can be related to your installation or the part you've just installed is at fault....

Did you look at the bracket on the valve lifter solenoid. If you already replaced the coils and plugs the OBDII manual is talking about valve lift. May be one of the solenoid is not in position due to a fail bracket....

Escape me too!!! Strange, may be they wanted to save a switch! :D

Take a look at this: (too bad the picture don't show...)

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/192257-diy-fix-your-own-996tt-front-differential.htmlhttp://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/192257-diy-fix-your-own-996tt-front-differential.html

Yes, only the dealer can supply these codes and sometimes they don't like to give them because they know you will get some work done by an independent shop, but these are your codes!

You need the IPAS code. This is a list of specific codes to reprogram functions on your car. With proof of ownership you should get them from the dealer.

Look here: Sometimes it is not easy to get...http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42316-no-windows-sunroof-interior-lights-central-locking-etc/page__hl__ipas__st__60