yuyokatana

Hey guys, so Im looking at some aftermarket wheels, my car is a 2001 base, the wheels are 19x8 front & 19x10 rear, with a 50 mm offset front and rear. am I good to go? will they stay inside the fenders? Thanks..

Loose Spark Plug,had the same exact sound

I got your solution, I had the same exact noise. 1 of your plugs is loose....

Hi everyone, I also have a noise coming from the engine bay. It sounds like a grinding, kind of like when an engine is running with low or no oil. I do have the correct oil level and I change the oil as required. The car runs fine with plenty of power. 1 thing I want to mention, a while back I replaced the AOS and there is a plastic round canister with a really small hose that I broke the little tip on the canister that connect to the hose. I fixed it by connecting the hose to the canister with a wd40 can straw, by connecting the hose to the straw and glued the straw to the canister. It fitted perfectly, but I dont know if there is an obstruction somewhere there or if that canister supply oil somewhere and if that is the reason of my noise. Please help

There is no longer communication between the remote and the control box after a week or so, turn the key, in the lock, to the right while pushing the button, the remote should be adapted to the system again. If it doesn't work, you should search it in the remote.

****, RFM, you are good! I stuck the key in, turned it, pressed the button, and VOILA - they're mated again!!! Thank you bunches. I guess the flashing remote doesn't mean much in this case. The car started just fine and I'm letting her run for awhile, in place.

I would never have figured that out without you - many, many thanks.

Now, if I could indulge you (and any others), the console (near the radio) red light flashes continuously when the car is shut down - is that normal - ? Hey, I'm sorry, I'm a new owner of the 'computer on wheels' and all these crazy little gizmos are panicking me! ;-) From what I've read here, the slightest misstep will cause a meltdown!

I know you guys (and maybe some gals) are really into the technical stuff, so please forgive me for posting what you probably feel are superfulous issues. But I really want to get 'up to speed' on this magnificent creature. At some point, I'll be able to help out with the problems other people experience.

I'm a BBQ nut and was on the BBQ List for years (Google me - Bostonbutt - and you'll see some recipes you may like... my way of somewhat paying you back). Feel free to email me personally about food issues at jeff.lipsitt@verizon.net

Again, thanks for solving my problem, RFM.

Best regards - Jeff in Boston

Hi, how exactly you did the pressing and turning. I have the same issue and tried your post but is not working for me. I even tried both of my keys. Thanks

Let me start by saying that I just got my Boxster S in February and just recently found this site. In just a few weeks I found so much invaluable and helpful information here at renntech, and also at babblers, so I'm trying to give a little back. It's not much, but those in the market for headers should probably take the time to read this since it's hard to find out REAL information on these products. I also want to be very clear that I have nothing to do with the manufacturer or seller and have no vested interest. These are just my thoughts, and although I do not have any Porsche experience, I do have a lot of tuning experience so I'm pretty familiar with what is and is not a quality product.

After putting the car in the air and looking at the bottom of the engine I immediately found the need to change from the stock headers. I do not at all like their design as they appear very very restrictive. I don't have a ton of money and somebody on Babblers.org had suggested the Turbowerx headers so I gave them a shot.

Install

I will say very plainly that headers are MUCH easier to install than a muffler is on this car. I was actually quite surprised how easy it was to take off the old header and put the new one on. I used PB blaster on all the bolts and let them sit for ~1 hour before removing the old bolts and not a single one gave me a hard time. I did not expect that at alllllll. :)

To note, the Turbowerx headers have 2 bolts that are very tricky to tighten with a ratchet and likely will need a box wrench to tighten down all the way. The plastic shield on the passenger side of the car I loosened up to help get to them. That was a simple removal of 2 screws and 2 nuts.

Quality

All I have to way is "wow." I have seen a number of headers in my day and none are the quality of these! I spoke with the company and the guy said he does them himself, although he outsources the flanges, he does all the welds and developed the tubes himself. Impressive and made in America! Woohoo!

The steel is beautiful, the welds are perfect and clean, and the flanges are very thick (1/2"!!). The F1 merge collectors are the perfect choice here also in my opinion. Bravo all around.

Performance and Sound

First a quick note on sound. The cats are deleted (Yay CEL!) and the pipes are thicker. This by itself definitely made the car sound throatier and a little more imposing. After also putting on an aftermarket muffler it's very loud, but regardless of muffler this WILL make it louder by a noticeable amount, although not too much.

As for performance, I do not have access to a dyno so I cannot give a perfect answer here. The website shows a dyno graph that illustrates a 22hp/18tq increase for the 3.2L and even more for the 2.7L. The seat of my pants says: "I believe it." The car really starts pulling anywhere over 3k rpm much more than before, and once it hits 5k...it's a crazy difference. Wow. The only other modification I had was a K&N filter, desnorkled, and now also a performance muffler (but the muffler didn't make a difference really).

Other than when I put a turbo on my NA car years ago, this is simply the best single-mod performance difference I have yet encountered-it's THAT good. Enough said.

Final Thoughts

I have absolutely nothing bad to say about these headers. They're CHEAP, or relatively though. They cost me $799 and I bought them during a free shipping promotion. Sweet! For that price I in no way expected such a beautiful piece or such a dramatic increase in performance. Best bang for your buck I've seen in my time. I know the pics aren't great but they were taken with my Blackberry so my apologies, I tried! Please feel free to ask me any questions if I left anything else out.

Hi, so this headers are without cats correct? Did you installed both 02 sensors? Did you get a CEL?

First off, what you are talking about is a "resonator," not a "resignator." A resonator is an acoustic device used in some exhaust systems to help tune the sound. The Boxster (any and all of them, whether 986 or 987, S or non-S) does not utilize these.

Your 03 car has two pre cats in the headers, and then two cats in the midpipes. You can remove the second set of cats without running into check engine light problems as the second set of O2 sensors are after the pre cat, but before the midpipe cats. If you want to run aftermarket headers, that are non catted, you will have to find someone to flash your car's DME to RoW (non North America) software, as the RoW program does not monitor the second set of O2s. If you install non catted headers without doing this you are guaranteed to get a check engine light for catalyst efficiency. The other option is to run aftermarket, catted headers.

Hi, how about if the non catted headers have 2 holes for both 02 sensors? Will I still need to flash the computer? Or will I get a CEL light?? Thank You

Hi,

I just wanted to get some opinions on what I did to my stock muffler to change the sound a little on my boxter.I welded 3/4 stainless pipe from the inlets of the stock boxter muffler to the tailpipe bypassing a little of the flow past the stock muffler straight out of the tailpipe.I also changed the stock headers to high flow performance headers.I posted it on myspace.You will see the pic for the video ..it is a rear shot of a white boxter.Please watch the video,and give me your opinion about the sound.If it sounds bad I am going to replace the muffler.Just to warn you the video quality is terrible,because I used my cellphone...lol.You wont hear the rev until the end of the vid..it is about 42 seconds long.The url is www.myspace.com/bobby976 ...Thank you for your time everyone.. :) :renntech:

Hi, did you installed both of your 02 sensors to the headers? Did you get any CEL? Thank you I am planing on doing the same. BTW IMO sounds great...

Thank you guys for the quick response. Hereit is my confusion with your reply.

Loren... You said that On US cars you will get a CEL if either the before cat or after cat O2 sensors are not present. But in my case both O2 sensors will be installed on each header.

Sergiu... On your car then you have a non cated header with 1 O2 sensor on the non cated header and 1 O2 sensor on the NHP midpipes, correct??

The reason I want to install headers is because after troubleshooting i have found that the drivers side Catalyc Converter on the factory header (1 piece header and cat)is bad (code0430) I already cleared the CEL twice and the same code comes back. On my car the passenger side Catalyc converter was already replaced by Porsche under warranty(8yrs or 80,000miles) but with my luck now, the drivers side is bad, but the car is over 80,000 miles and the warranty is over. And for me doesnt make any sense to buy a factory header/cat for almost 1k.

Good Day to all

Here is my question. I am planing on install headers to my 01 non S Boxster. The headers are without cats but they have the holes for both O2 sensors. Also I am going to eliminate the rear 2 cats or resonators with bypass pipes straight to the factory muffler. Will installing headers without cats triger a CEL light/ Even tough both O2 sensor will be installed on the headers? Can I do that? Please help me clearing my question, I am Active Duty Military and about to be deployed and want to do this during my Christmas vacation. Thanks in advance.... Angel...

First off, what you are talking about is a "resonator," not a "resignator." A resonator is an acoustic device used in some exhaust systems to help tune the sound. The Boxster (any and all of them, whether 986 or 987, S or non-S) does not utilize these.

Your 03 car has two pre cats in the headers, and then two cats in the midpipes. You can remove the second set of cats without running into check engine light problems as the second set of O2 sensors are after the pre cat, but before the midpipe cats. If you want to run aftermarket headers, that are non catted, you will have to find someone to flash your car's DME to RoW (non North America) software, as the RoW program does not monitor the second set of O2s. If you install non catted headers without doing this you are guaranteed to get a check engine light for catalyst efficiency. The other option is to run aftermarket, catted headers.

Hello and thank you

So how about if I use non catted headers, but they have holes for both O2 sensors/ Do I still need to flash my DME???

I have repeated P1130 codes that happen every couple of weeks just as the engine warms to normal operating temp if I get stopped at a traffic light. I erase the code and CEL stays off for weeks at a time. Conventional wisdom on this board is that code is set by MAF, not due to a problem with O2 sensor. I cleaned the MAF two weeks ago, but the light came on again this morning. Car runs perfectly with no perceived problems other than the CEL.

Car is a US Boxster S, 2001 model built in Finland with Tiptronic.

1. How do I further diagnose to determine if it is MAF or is actually O2 sensor?

2. If it is the O2, can someone provide a photo of the location for the sensro that sets P1130 and replacement instructions.

Thanks,

Bruce

I had the same issue with code 1130, after I blew the air box I guess the MAF got dirty. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and Kaboom cel gone. Try it!!!!

I've researched the P1130 code on this board and find that the usual suspect cause is an air leak in the intake or a dirty/bad MAF. I'll start with working on those areas, but have some questions based on what I've read on this board.

My car is a US 2001 Boxster S with Tiptronic @ 22K miles. I've had (4) P1130 code events since last March. Each time I erase the code, it doesn't come back for at least 3 or 4 weeks. The odd thing is that it always comes on at the same place/time. There is a traffic light about 5 miles from my house, just far enough to get the engine fully warm. The CEL came on each time when I've been stopped at that traffic light.

Questions based on what I've read on other topics on this board:

1. If it is a MAF or intake leak, why do I only get an error code for one bank? Wouldn't those affect both sides of the engine? Or might there be some pending codes for opposite bank and my cheap OBDII reader doesn't show them.

2. Other topics on this board mention diganosing problems by disconnecting the MAF. Is the MAF active when the engine is at idle?

3. Any other advice on resolving my P1130 code?

Thanks,

Bruce

Hello I had the same code, and I cleaned the MAF and kapufff code gone!!! Try it.....

I have the same problem, with the noise on the rear. Lifted the car checked everything, nothing is loose, broken or nothing. But I have noticed that after i wash the car i always spray WD-40 to lubricate everything and to make it easier to clean next time, the noise goes away for a while, also when is raining and water is running underneath the car the noise is gone also. The description of the noise is a clunk when going over humps ect. 2001 Boxster non S. I will appreciatte any help.

The Lonely Sailor

HelloI need some help. I have this clunk noise on the front of the car. Cant tell if left or right. I lifted the car on a lift, all suspension rubber parts are good, I shacked everything underneath including both tires nothing makes noise. What could it be?? 01 Boxster. Thanks Angel...