artster

I had a similar chirp/squeak that I heard only when engaging the clutch but it was very subtle - and totally gone after a clutch and flywheel replacement.

Also check the torque on your spark plugs - you can get a chirp from a loose plug

-Art

Roof strips pop right out - there are plastic clips (~4) under each strip that grip on threaded studs protruding from the channel under the strip. Replacement clips are cheap - plan on replacing them for reassembly.

Rubber is screwed on with each screw cleverly tucked under the folds of rubber. Some are real tough to find. Consider leaving the rubber in place and tape it. You can loosen it to better mask for painting.

The CEL on a mate's car was on and reading the codes it said P2096 and P2098. We cleared the codes but they kept returning so we changed both the post cat lambda sensors with original Porsche ones but the light remains on and the new code is P0420 (bank 1 cat below efficiency). Is there anything else I should check before condemning the cat? The emmisions are fine.

There is a TSB (number 2469) on the P2096/2098 codes that may apply if your 996 is 2002+

Hell all,

Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier of the Dension Gateway 500. My son in law wants one and is going to take advantage of the cheaper prices in the USA so would like a name of a supplier that will get the unit sent to his West Florida address.

Your suggestions are warmly welcomed

Thanks guys

I got mine at Bumper Plugs

Resurrecting this thread - many thanks for the original post - a great write-up. I just finished refurbishing mine. Fortunately for me there were no broken screws upon disassembly.

Also, I went a slightly different route - I had the center sections powdercoated in black, and polished the outer rim. The tires will be mounted tomorrow:

Pics before:

There was a bit of corrosion on the rim:

After polishing:

The final product:

Thanks for the replies. Loren is correct, I have a CDR-23. I apologize for not mentioning that in my original post. I was hoping for a plug and play solution however if it takes wiring then so be it. The idea of converting MP3 files to CD for around town would be OK but we live in OH and the car was a retirement reward to ourselves and we have a choice of parking it here in Ohio or driving it in Key West. Limited storage for CDs so MP3 player becomes a requirement for the drive south. Any other ideas would be appreciated!

I installed the Dension Gateway 500 in my '03 (CDR-23 MOST system) with an iPod. It is not a perfect solution, because the CDR-23 does not display any track information, but I mounted the iPod on a mount next to the dash, and it works fine. The Dension unit plugs into the MOST fiber loop, pretending to be a cd changer - the quality of the sound is superb (well, as good as you can get with the factory setup). Installation was easy, but it did require a trip to the dealer to "enable" the cd changer.

The downside is that it is not cheap - I bought mine from bumperplugs.

Good luck

- Art

I have an '03 Boxster S with a MOST CDR23 and M490 sound package. I'm intending to replace the current setup with a Becker Cascade and new speakers. I've done a quite a bit of searching and reading on here and I think I need to add a switched live feed and illumination feed to the connector block. I've read that I can get the switched live from the blue/black wire on the large connector to the climate unit. However I'm unsure where to get the illumination feed from, can I just take it from one of the switches and find the correct wire by using a multi-meter?

The illumination should be on the harness going into the deck.

You can use a multi-meter. The illumination wire should test ground when the light switch is off, and 11.8-13V when the light switch is on. Now, this is also true with the dimmer, but the difference is, the dimmer will change voltage if you brighten or darken your interior lights (when switched on), it will range from about 4V-12.8V.

Hope this helps.

FYI. Dont connect the illumination from the deck to the dimmer, this can damage "some" Decks.

According to the pinout diagram (see this post), there is an "illumination input" at terminal A6, but my recollection is that there was no wire connected there. The CDR-23 does vary illumination level with the dash adjustment - but I don't know how it does it... Perhaps the CAN bus?

That doesn't really answer your question - but perhaps you can just tap into a dash light line to get the illumination input you need for your Becker unit. The easiest place to tap into that, in my opinion, is the ash tray illumination in the center console.

Also, best access to switched 12V is the phone interface connector behind the dash.

Good luck - and please post your solution should you find it.

- Art

I looked for the decals on ebay and could not find them. Can someone point me to the right spot.

(Caliper decals "PORSCHE")

I got mine here: www.xenonmods.com

I refreshed the finish on my calipers but didn't need the decals. I cleaned the calipers and lightly sanded with 800-grit sandpaper, feathering the edges where the clearcoat had peeled off, and even more lightly over the PORSCHE lettering. I sprayed the calipers with a clear engine enamel (duplicolor, I think). They look nearly as good as new.

- Art

Excellent!! Nice work :clapping:

I like your Ipod holder as well :D

So are you Oil pressure and Voltage gauges in the instrument cluster de-activated or is the addition to?

I have the stock 986S dash cluster - no oil pressure or voltage. This has no impact on the warning lights in the cluster.

My alternative was to go with the 996 cluster conversion, which has been covered here in a number of posts.

The iPod setup is a panasert pedestal that I picked up a number of years ago mounted with the holder that comes with the Dension interface. It is pretty solid, and easily removed for security. It also works as a "hat holder" to cover things up when parked. B)

- Art

I installed a gauge panel in place of the cd storage tray. I purchased the panel from 9xauto.com and the gauges from eGauges.com. I got a voltmeter and an oil pressure gauge - and purchased the 996 oil pressure sending unit from suncoast (which operates roughly in the 10-180 ohm range).

I painted the aluminum gauge panel with RustOleum satin black, which is pretty close to the dash color, and tapped into the wiring for the phone connection behind the dash. I pulled the center console to run the wire into the engine compartment, drilling a hole near the sending unit, using a wire grommet that I got from radio shack. While the center console was out, I tapped into the dash light circuit at the ash tray bulb. After wiring everything up, the panel literally snaps solidly into place.

I went for the VDO vision series gauges which come by default with a threaded collar (spin-lock) to secure them to the dash - but because of the clearance in the dash opening, the spin-lock mount doesn't fit, and you have to order the side-mount (see pics).

- Art

I must be missing something, but is the one solution to help adding an aux connector to the OEM unit?

I have a 2001 with a CDR 220. The aux connector was a 30min addition fix from Becker for less $50.

What is the unit in your P-car?

The head unit on an '03 with MOST is likely the CDR-23. There is no aux input.

I recently installed the Dension Gateway 500 unit with an iPod and it works great (03 986S). The Dension unit taps into the fiber optic loop and mimics the function of a cd changer. It's not perfect, as the CDR-23 doesn't display anything but "TRACK 1" so you can't just stuff the iPod in the glove box and forget about it. I mounted it next to the dash.

It's pricey (about $500), but the alternative was a complete replacement of the head unit, amp, and probably speakers...

- Art

I just replaced my clutch on my '03 986S - my mechanic also told me it was "heavy" - but to prove the point, he had me sit in a 996 that was in the shop with a brand new clutch. The difference was amazing, but at the time, I passed, since I wasn't overly concerned with a heavy clutch, and decided to wait until the clutch started to show signs of slipping (I was at 65k, driven by me for the most recent 20k). Within two weeks, the clutch was slipping, and I had it replaced.

Looks great! My calipers look like your "before" picture - this is on my list of things to do.

Thanks for the pointers

Yes - 03 introduced a redesign.

I did a search and found a post that says the pre and post cat sensors on the 996 are the same.

On an 04 986S, does anyone know if the pre and post cat sensors are the same, other than the post cat sensors having a longer wire?

They're the same - I replaced all four of mine (03 986S) with Bosch 15738 sensors. 04 should be the same

- Art

I'm looking to install a VDO oil pressure gauge in my 04 986S track car.

To do this, I understand I need a 996 sender which has two wire connectors - one for the idiot light and the other for the gauge.

There are two VDO gauges:

* one for 10 - 180 ohm range sender

* and one for 240 - 33 (U.S. Ohm range)

Anyone know the range of the 996 sender or which VDO gauge works with the 996 sender?

I measure ~19 ohms on the variable side of the sensor from my '99 when there is no pressure. If you use the factory sensor with a non-factory gauge, you'll want to use compressed air with an independent gauge to make sure the sensor and gauge play together.

I've been thinking of doing the same on my boxster - but using the VDO sender screwed into the un-used oil pressure tap on the other head.

Does anyone know the thread size of the 996 sender? VDO sending units come in M10 M12 M14 or M16 thread sizes

- Art

a blown warning light bulb?

The seat belt chime is a very simple circuit - with the seat belt unbuckled, power is applied (when the ignition is on) to the idiot light and the seat belt chime. Insert the seat belt in the buckle, and the circuit is opened - power interrupted, and no light or chime. This is a separate circuit from the airbag (which has it's own switch in the seat belt buckle to determine if the belt is buckled or not).

You have an open circuit. Chances are the connectors, or the seat belt buckle are the problem.

Under the driver's seat, there is a bunch of wires going from the floor to the seat. In that bundle, there is a brown wire with a red stripe. Follow that to the connector at the seat, and see what it looks like. You may have to remove the seat to get access - but don't disconnect anything unless you have the durametric tool to reset your airbag light.

On my 986S, I actually created the condition you describe on purpose - I snipped that brown/red wire, and taped off the ends. No seat belt light, and no annoying chime. That's the way I like it...

- Art

I believe this means that there has been one incident at 198 hours when the engine was spinning between 8400 and 9500 rpm. This can happen with a missed shift - say you're accelerating to near redline in 4th, and hit 3rd instead of 5th. Clutch comes out and wham... The engine controls shut off fuel flow, and will not fire the spark once you hit range 1, but the momentum of the car can still spin the engine faster.

You can really only estimate when this happened (if you did it, you'd remember, I'm sure). 198/287=.689; if you have been consistently driving your car about the same amount of time and speed per month, you can estimate this happened 68.9% of your current odometer reading - check your service records to try to pin it to a date.

Can't comment on the status of your warranty - you'd have to check with the dealer.

That rules out a bad splice. They could be the wrong type. If you still have your old ones, and an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the heating circuit - across the two white wires (though yours may be different), and then unplug your new ones, and measure them.

Ok, I just replaced all four oxygen sensors. I haven't driven the car since I replaced the water pump, belt, spark plugs, and oxygen sensors. After 15 minutes of warming up the car, the check engine light came on:(. Here are the codes:

P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit

P1117 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

P1121 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

Any ideas on how to fix this issues??? I erased the codes myself using my OBD...but not really sure if it will come back again. I got the oxygen sensors from oxygen geek.com...

Thank you

Can you provide a bit more info - year/model, and describe the O2 sensor (direct fit / universal)?

They might have sent you the wrong sensors, and you may want to double-check your connections (particularly, if the sensors are universal with a spliced connector).

While doing some maintenance work on my '00 Boxster I started to talk to the tech about my iPod and how I have it connected in my car.

Currently I just have a Kensington FM transmitter (http://us.kensington.com/html/6402.html) that connects my iPod to my car speakers. He told me that my radio has an aux input on the back and with the right cable harness I could wire in the Kensington harness to the aux input. This would create a setup so that the new harness would still plug into the data port on the bottom of my iPod AND provide power as well as sound through the cars speakers, via the aux input.

I'm not a big DIY when it comes to cables and wiring in the car but I wanted to know if anyone has heard of another setup like this. Or if it would be fairly easy for a 3rd party professional radio installer to create this setup?

Any thoughts?

If your radio has an aux input, all you need is something like this:

http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=aip-rca

wire the red lead to switched 12V, black to ground, (tap off the cigarette lighter from behind the dash?) and the rca cables to the aux input (I don't know what form the aux input is - you may need to convert the RCA cable to whatever form that is).

To complete the installation, you may want a cradle to support the ipod so that you can control it while driving (though drive carefully!) A third party installer could set you up with this easily.

- Art

2003 Boxster S 6-speed with 46k, CEL light came on.

Plugged in the Durametric, which gives me:

P2098 Porsche fault code 22 - Oxygen sensor ageing; Delay bank 2

P2096 Porsche fault code 16 - Oxygen sensor ageing; Delay bank 1

So here I go with the questions - is it common for both O2 sensors to go at the same time?

Aren't there four O2 sensors, and is this telling me all four are shot?

I'll crawl under it and reset the connectors, visually check things out, and reset the trouble codes. If the CEL trips again, I'll replace the sensors.

- Art

UPDATE

There is a TSB on this error code that only applies to certain Boxster S models (and probably some 996's)

I brought the car to my local Porsche dealer (who didn't know about the TSB until I pointed it out to them), they reprogrammed the DME, and I'm all set.

My Contributing Membership access to the TSBs has paid for itself again... :)

-Art

I have just used a 10mm socket and Bob's your Uncle! (it worked!)

It's an external torx socket - I recently picked up this for about 20 bucks (had it in a couple days):

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis26280.html

I figured it's a set that might come in handy with this car.

-Art

That could be it - I recently fixed a leaking oil filter housing that was working its way down the wire to one of the sensors.

Thanks!

Art

The sensors could be contaminated if they got sprayed with oil or something else.

2003 Boxster S 6-speed with 46k, CEL light came on.

Plugged in the Durametric, which gives me:

P2098 Porsche fault code 22 - Oxygen sensor ageing; Delay bank 2

P2096 Porsche fault code 16 - Oxygen sensor ageing; Delay bank 1

So here I go with the questions - is it common for both O2 sensors to go at the same time?

Aren't there four O2 sensors, and is this telling me all four are shot?

I'll crawl under it and reset the connectors, visually check things out, and reset the trouble codes. If the CEL trips again, I'll replace the sensors.

- Art