rrspikemarty

Are you sure it's not the bottom grommet, the one the pin goes into?

Rick

1999 C4

1987 944S

Yee-hah :D

You and Orient are absolutely correct. Two pins on bottem of box. One grommet stayed in place, the other had fallen out. This morning I removed the entire box and immediately saw what was going on.

I am intrigued as to why the PET didn't show/list the part. I wonder if anyone else has found porsche parts on their car that are not in PET....?

One would think a valid road test, and working the clutch to try and make it slip would have been done, since we are only talking a couple of weeks. Also They should have noticed a higher than usual pedal. These things grab pretty low. Unless of course you have a RMS leak whereas oil has gotten on your clutch disk. One would think that the dealer inspection would have found an RMS seepage.

A good way to see the condition of the clutch is to get it in high gear at slow speed and see if the clutch slips or the engine lugs.

I agree here. I recently had my clutch on a 200 996 C2 go bad on me after 60K miles, and what a difference once the new clutch and pressure plate are in.

Obviously is grips lower and the pedal feel is noticably lighter. The least thing the stealer that did the PPI should have done is mention a heavy pedal feel and high grip point. I consider this basic knowledge for anyone that regularly works on / drives these cars.

Joost

Very interesting. I had a thorough PPI done at the same indie as Demosan for the 2003 C4S i purchased, and I specifically asked about their opinion of the condition of the clutch. The technician said the clutch was very firm and road test indicated a good strong clutch. My clutch is very heavy, has low take-up, but feels solid as a rock. Not sure what jperquin is saying here - a heavy pedal-feeling clutch is a bad sign? I have not owned a p-car previously, so nothing to compare with, but clutch feel is far heavier than clutches in other new models i have driven.

Probably some tech dropped it when working on your car.

It is used on all the 997 models (997, GT3, and 997TT).

Loren,

Thanks. That's what i was thinking. To confirm - this part does not belong anywhere on my car (i.e. for securing or dampening the air box, or whatever)?

Hi,

I have stock MY2003 C4S manual trans, coupe, USA. Today i loosened the air box and lifted it to do some cleaning underneath. The only things i loosened or removed were:

- removed single screw holding down the airbox assembly to the body,

- removed hose clamp on the hose to the throttle body, and separated the hose from throttle body,

- loosened one of the wire clamps on the MAF sensor lead to get some play,

- snapped out the oil filler hose.

Upon putting everything back together, I noticed a black rubber grommet on the floor where i'm working. I know for sure i did not remove it. It appears as if it may have been lodged under the airbox and fell out, when i lifted the airbox. Part number is 999 703 478 40. I have looked in PET and the part is listed for the 997 Carrera 2005 as a grommet associated with the 997 airbox, which is not the same as the 996 airbox. The part is not listed anywhere in PET for the 996 model.

Picture attached. Grommet is approx 1" long, 1.125" outside diameter across the top.

Can any gurus shed light on this? Do i need to find a home for it somewhere?

MY02 on C4S (cast iron brakes not PCCB)

Front -

Pads: 996 351 949 12 (1 set)

Damping Plate: 996 351 089 00 (4 needed)

Wear Sensors: 996 612 365 00 (as needed)

Mounting Parts Kit (bolt, spring clip): 996 351 959 11

Rear

Pads: 996 352 949 02 (1 set)

Damping Plate (28 mm): 964 352 096 01 (4 needed)

Damping Plate (30 mm): 964 352 096 00 (4 needed)

Wear Sensors: 996 612 365 00 (as needed)

Mounting Parts Kit (bolt, spring clip): 996 352 959 11

do the p/ns above apply also to MY03 C4S (cast iron) ?

Correct. The C4S uses the sames M96 engine that the Boxster and Carrera use.

Thanks Loren!

A little bit off (my own) topic... but how in the world can the C4S have performance numbers close to the standard C2 with the same engine, same gearing, and more weight?! It should be a considerable dog, I would think.

Malakas,

nothing to do with engine block, but your car looks very cool - haven't seen the orient red before..nice.

Attached is a pic of a VIL from 2003 C4S coupe, 6-speed. In the list of option codes, i could find only 342, 680, 692, 982 in the references.

Does anyone know what the other codes (desides C02) mean? They are 288, 601, 981, 939, 985. A number of the codes (601, 692) are repeating.

From a practical point of view, I'm trying to determine if this car has 18" wheels, bi-xenon headlights and the PSM (which i believe was optional on MY2003?).

Does anyone know the difference(s) between base MY 2002 and 2003 TT coupes (6-speed)?

Definitely!!

This site and the gurus thereon have helped me arrive at what i think i need to know about buying and owning my dream car! Everyone is extraordinarily generous with fact, fiction and most important of all - opinions. Terrific!

Hi,

Not sure if this is the correct forum, since the Recommendations forum says it's closed down (not being monitored?).

However, can anyone recommend/suggest a shop fully up-to-speed on the 996 later models, to do an extensive PPI in the Dallas area, TX? Reply via PM if not allowed to post names on forum..

Also, does anyone have any knowledge of the reputation of Park Place Motors, Dallas?

Any feedback much appreciated. Thanks!

rrspike

Park Place has been very good to us... see Javier for a PPI. Tell him Jeff sent ya.

thanks, jeff

will keep that in mind.

rrspike

A crude but easy way would be to take the total numbers of the model year produced and divide that by the number of months produced. I don't have the data here with me, but it's all in the new 996 Companion book by Adrian Strether. It should get you within a month or 2. Personally, I think you're wasting your time looking for a late 2004, as that is about the LEAST important detail as compared to mileage, condidtion, use, options, color, etc, etc, etc. There is nothing to be gained by getting a higher mileage newer 2004 over a less mileage older 2004. They are all out of warranty. Just my $0.02..take it for what it's worth.

Sounds like Strether's book has the info. Thanks. Also, I'm glad you made that $0.02 point. Being new to this game, I was probably getting a bit too anal. My thinking was that later 2004 models might have had minor engineering improvements (over earlier 2004s) in things like seals. Guess not, huh?

Hi,

Not sure if this is the correct forum, since the Recommendations forum says it's closed down (not being monitored?).

However, can anyone recommend/suggest a shop fully up-to-speed on the 996 later models, to do an extensive PPI in the Dallas area, TX? Reply via PM if not allowed to post names on forum..

Also, does anyone have any knowledge of the reputation of Park Place Motors, Dallas?

Any feedback much appreciated. Thanks!

rrspike

2002 996 TT 15 k miles ( purchased at 6k miles and done 9 k in a year). New becker cd/radio unit and new battery so far. Moved up from 996 coupe to the TT... whole another world with another 115bhp.. Totally impractical, poor spare tire, no luggage space , no rear seat space etc average looks from most angles, noisy but really did not buy the car for any of those features or lack of. Great gas mileage 17 to 18 mpg includes on ramp runs at up to 120mph ! Phenomenal daily driver near exotic with (I believe ) best in class reliability.Only critcism is it could be lighter....get a GT2! Pure driving pleasure and the highlight of my day everyday... next car will be a 997 TT in about 4 years .

Other exotics may have a little more style and possibly performance but at the price point you mentioned hard to find a more reliable daily driver ( unless you want to go the other way and drive a Z06.. but wrong forum to discuss that machine ).

State side you should find a vehicle with less than 40 k miles for you price of $60k...prices are soft with the current economy and lack of financing.

Good luck .

just received an email from guy who sold his 2002 TT, 39k miles, for $53,000. Florida. Clean title, the works. That is one heck of bargain if the car is all it was described to be!

The production date is printed on a sticker on the left hand door of every Porsche.

Enter the VIN in Scouser's Porsche VIN decoder here.

From his VIN help:

"The 10th character position in the VIN and the 1st in the VIS is used to specify the manufacture year. The European Union does not require that a year code is implemented although Porsche does use it.

In the USA and Canada however, the year code is compulsory. The year codes start at 1971 and use characters 1 through 9 up to 1979. From 1980 onwards the characters start at A and continue to Y for year 2000. 2001 restarts again at 1 to 9 until 2009 and then A through Z is for years 2019 onwards. Note that characters I, O, Q, U, and Z are not used. Note also, that Porsche did not introduce the 17 digit VIN code on their vehicles until 1980.

It is important to understand that the manufacture year is in fact the year the vehicle was released from the factory and not necessarily the actual year of manufacture. For example, a 997 model 911 assembled in December of 2006 will likely show a manufacture year of 2007."

Loren,

Thanks. I ran VIN through Scouser's tool. Nice. No problem reading what the year code is... I was wondering if gurus out there have any wisdom on specific serial numbers/sequences (from my original post)..?

rrspikemarty

Hello all,

First wanted to note this is a brilliant board/forum!. I am amzed at the wisdom and experience posted here. I'm in the hunt for a used 911 (shooting for 2004 C4S manual, coupe, NA) and over the last 2 weeks have spent more time on this board than with my wife. I consider this as good preparation for when i actually get the car; wife will be used to not seeing me around much!

OK, real reason for post - i'd like to get a 'late' 2004 911, and I'm assuming i can safely use the last 4 digits of VIN to judge the relative manufacture date? Any flaw in this approach, or is it usually just as effective/simpler to check the first title event date from the carfax report and assume the date will track consistently with the relative manufacturer date?

I guess this could end up being a lengthy post/response if there are serial number ranges to avoid/be aware of, due to tweaks in production or known issues. Or if it is known that certain vehicles have huge time delays between date of manufacture and date the car was first sold/registered in US.

So i think my questions boil down to

a) Can anyone comment or point me to existing threads/links that might have info on this?.

b) Where could i find the serial number range for total MY2004 production for US distribution of this p car

c) Is the serial number in the VIN truly chronological (i.e. in all cases , a higher serial number for given model year means a later manufacture date)?

Great thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction!

rrspike

<snip>... as a young professional who moves every 4 months around the country and has one daily driver and only makes 105k a year ... <snip>

hmmmm...we all should be so lucky, i think. You're a very luck young professional. i have never made anything close to 6 figures in my entire working life of over 30 years. I'm not wealthy by any stretch, but **** it, I'm going to buy a porsche here fairly soon. :D