The Hoth

Wow, it looks good. :D

T, the 2 holes are the best way to remove the center hub crest cover. A simple bent coat hanger will do the trick to remove them. Do you have the nicer enamel metal crests or the plain black and silver plastic ones? The metal enamel ones are a bit pricy. I have the simple black and silver ones which I have removed and painted with acrylic model paint to look exactly like the hand painted metal enamel ones from Porsche. Here is my DIY thread

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=28796

If you have any questions drop me a line here.

M

Thanks man,

I sent you a PM with my address.

Our car is hardly driven and was in our garage ever since we bought it.

Can you believe they charged so much for the colored crest center cap and yet it will fall apart like that?

Hi TH -Had the exact same problem on my Targa. There is a number on the back of the cap which you can use to do a search on e-bay. I got mine for $20. the cost was less of an issue than the fact that I wanted a used one rather than new so that it would match the other caps. The number on the replacement cap was slightly differant but the picture looked the same & in fact the cap was the same. Until I found the replacement I used a decal that I installed on my old cap. I have an extra decal & would be glad to send it to you nc if you PM me your address. Cris

The weather was nice. I washed our car and got ready for a short drive. When I was washing the wheel, I noticed the crest on the wheel center cap was missing.

I looked around, it was not on the garage floor. It was not on our driveway.

Ok, it is gone.

Well, unless I find a Prosche crest to superglue it back on the center cap, I think I will have to buy a center cap to replace it.

That stupid cap is like $61 on Pelican parts. I can't believe it.

Anyway, if anyone has an extra crest, please let me know.

Just a question(or two), do I have to remove the wheel to remove the center cap?

I see two small holes on the center cap, can I remove center cap using these two holes?

I am kind of lazy to take the wheel out.

Thanks in advance.

Thomas

I wonder if there are any objective measures (eg. thickness of the pads and rotors), that will prompt the replacement of them? I don't want to replace them too early or too late.

I don't want to wait until the light is lit and the brake start making noises. You know it only means I have to spend more money and replace more parts, you know.

Just curious, what is the normal oil pressure reading on the oil pressure gauage when idling and crusing?

When crusing on the highway around 60mph. I have 4.5 bars. When idling, I have 2.5 bars.

In the owner's manual it is quite strange. It said @5,000 rpm the gauge should show 3.5bars. That sounds unrealistically low.

Any idea?

Thanks for all these ideas.

I took out a level and placed it on the garage floor. Ok, it is not level. Now the front of the car is slightly lower than the back end of the car.

Maybe that's why the coolant level is lower.

Is it possible?

I wonder how would that happen. I checked the floor, there is no coolant leak. The hoses around are not even wet.

Is it even important to fill up the coolant. I mean it is only a little lower that the min mark and the most is it is missing a few oz of fuild.

Can I look at it this way? Or am I in deep trouble?

:o

If I really have to add coolant(50/50 with distilled water of course), can I use Pentosin G0012000 instead of the OEM coolant?

Is it safe to mix it like that?

The other day, I replaced my busted amp with a newer one. I discovered there were tons of dried out grass seeds near the cabin filter.

I removed the plastic cover and discovered not only seeds but also mouse droppings. Yikes!

I cleaned that up and inspected everything near that area. There was no damage. Thank God!.....

My wife said it is cute and glad they made a nice little nest for them to survive winter.

I think my wife was cute for saying that.

If our 996 could think for itself, I somehow doubt that it would enjoy the company of those uninvited guests.

Just feel like sharing.

BTW, next year I would locate the openings on the cars and plug them up before hibernating it.

Just curious, when and what mileage did your water pump start giving up?

A little update.

I just installed Cris' amp. It works. Just plug and play.

Ah....it is so good to have music in the car.

Hello,

I did not know you posted your upgrade here.

When you receive my amp, I hope it will help your situation.

BTW, that is some technical stuff. I tried to read it and my head is still spinning.

I can't wait to get your good amp though. I have got to do the paypal stuff soon.

Thanks guys!

I think my brake fuild is ok for at leaset another year. I will definitely change the oil before putting it away for the winter.

Spark plugs are mileage sensitive, right? I think mine are still good til like 60k miles then.

I may replace the cabin filter though.

Oh, is it anything I need to grease it up? I'd imagine whatever grease they put on the car 6 years ago is all dry up now.

My 2003 996 C2 has relatively low mileage (25K). It is a summer car, always garaged, never raced or even autocross.

Every 5000 miles, we give it an oil change and that's about it. RMS was replaced under warranty.

So far so good.

I saw it somewhere, every 4 years the car needs a major service and every 6 years spark plugs needed to be replaced. Every two years, I suppose to flush the brake fuild.

I know, the car is 6 years old now, but the mileage is so low. Can I get away without doing all these?

My friend and I started flushing the brake fuild but discoverd the fuild was so clear and clean (bright yellow) and stopped half way through it and top it off.

I always check my message screen. I have no "bad" messages, can I assume, the car is in good shape?

Hi I just upgraded my system with a Alpine PDX5. In order to do so you must bypass the "MOST" optical harness which means a new head unit. I have an 04' 996 Targa with the Bose upgrade. The car has less than 14K miles so the factory amp should be in good shape. I had no problems with it. It is a Bose 6 channel amp. I also have the CDR 23 head unit. If you are interested send me a PM. Regards Cris

Thanks Cris,

I just sent you a pm. Not sure it got through.

Anyway, I am interested to take good care of them for you. :D . Of course, I will pay for shipping. If you want some cash to go along with it, please pm your price and we will work something out.

Thomas

Do you have a sport chasis package? Mine 03 996 C2 has it with the 18" wheels.

You feel everything (literally). Lots of feedback through the steering wheel.

Anyone has noticed the feedback through the steering wheel? I switch from the original tires to Bridgestone.

Road noises has been reduced significantly though.

Hi,

My 2003 has the audio upgrade package and the amp is not working right for the longest time. Switching on and switching off the unit, it finally drained the battery.

Anyway, I sent the amp to radio city in New York, they sent it back saying it can not be fixed.

I did some research, this amp is notorious for having problems. As the matter of fact the factory actually has a new amp to supercede it (due to too many of those became faulty).

The price of the new factory Bose amp is in the neighborhood of $800. Dayum!

Does anyone know the specs of the Bose amp (eg. number of channels, power..........etc.)?

Better yet if anyone has an amp sitting around in your garage since you upgraded your system, please let me know.

I am looking for another amp to replace it. I don't care if it is not Bose, as long as it is compatible with the rest of the system and it works, I will use it instead of the sucky factory amp.

Thanks in advance!

Thomas

"My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself".

Almost sounds like your ignition switch is going bad.

Nope, it is the amp.

I just sent mine out to have it repaired.

This amp is notorious for having problems. Actually it has so many problems to the point that the factory has come up with another amp to supercede it.

I have checked on the Pelicanparts.com, it is over $800.

I decide to give it a shot to repair the amp and hopefully it is going to last at least a couple years.

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

Wow it has been a while.

The car is out for the summer. I can't believe it has been this long without the stereo. Actually, I don't miss it that much. Listensing the sound of the engine and exhaust (plus tire noises) is good enough for me.

However, it wouldn't hurt to have a functional stereo.

Okay, I finally checked the amp. There is a sticker on it. It has a part no. 996.645.255.01 It is not the partno in the dealer's quote. Strange?! :huh:

I will go do some searches on the net.

Wish me luck!

If you have one sitting around in your garage and you want to get rid of it. Please PM me!

Thanks in advance.

My bad, the 996.645.255.01 part number is just the part no for the holder of the amp. Not the amp.

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

Wow it has been a while.

The car is out for the summer. I can't believe it has been this long without the stereo. Actually, I don't miss it that much. Listensing the sound of the engine and exhaust (plus tire noises) is good enough for me.

However, it wouldn't hurt to have a functional stereo.

Okay, I finally checked the amp. There is a sticker on it. It has a part no. 996.645.255.01 It is not the partno in the dealer's quote. Strange?! :huh:

I will go do some searches on the net.

Wish me luck!

If you have one sitting around in your garage and you want to get rid of it. Please PM me!

Thanks in advance.

I have been experiencing a similar situation (2003 C2 with CDR-23 & Bose), although

it usually occurs during th colder months (here in Boston area) say, Dec thru Apr.

On startup in the morning, the radio will hang in it's startup process (display reads "PORSCHE")

and go no further. At this point, nothing electronic works (buttons, etc.), no sound.

BUT, the eject button works (if a CD is in), and sometimes by jogging a CD in & out,

it eventually MAY start playing, maybe, if the car starts getting warm.

This problem has been attacked by two dealers. They have replaced the Bose amp,

CDR-23 radio (twice), and eventually replaced the MOST optical cabling. Problem

is still there intermittently, and I've resigned myself to the fact that 2003 was the first

year for the MOST system, and it has design flaws! The last speculation is that some

combination of temp/humidity may be hampering the optical system, which needs to check

out during the system initialization, before anything starts to work.

Ultimately, I'll replace the whole kit+kaboodle witha decent HU, amp and spkrs, but for now

I prefer just to not think about it (and how much $$$ I'll need to lay out!)

Good post!

Make sure you pull out the fuses for the HU and the amp from the fuse box. If the radio keeps switching on and off by itself, it will drain the battery.

Battery is not cheap. Don't ask. My battery died because of that.

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

If your car is a MY03, it has the MOST bus architecture which ties together the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier on a fiber optic network. The MOST bus is tied to the instrument cluster by the CAN bus. There are no radio codes (per se) associated with this setup. So....if you haven't changed the instrument cluster or any of the components on the MOST bus, and your radio is serviceable, you should not have to do anything to reactivate your radio after a power interruption.

If you change a component on the MOST bus or the instrument cluster, a PST2 / PIWIS has to be used to recode the system as a unit.

Bill

Thanks for your response. I don't have a CD changer nor a NAV. I believe the option code is m680 and the part number is 996 645 333 gx. It is a Bose upgrade and it was for MY03.

Just curious, what does "MOST" or "bus" mean?

I did a search on ebay and craig list and could not find it. Maybe I sound take it to a local electronic shop see if they can fix it.

Just brainstorming.....if you have any other idea, please feel free to share with me.

Thanks!

Thomas

often times it's written on the front hood label or manual, if not I'm sure Loren will have it for U.

The service manager said for 2003 and up I can't really enter the code. They use some sort of device from to upload the code into the radio to reactivate it. It would take 20 mins.

I call it BS. :huh:

Anyone has experience entering the code to reactivate the radio?

Thank you for your generousity! Seriously, not sure if it is Bose. On the window sticker, I believe it is listed as high end audio......something.

What year is your car. I have the amp from a 2000, replaced mine. It was the upgraded HIFi system with speakers in the doors, not the Bose, but the amp might work. Let me know what you need, it is yours for the shipping costs. Also, you see them all the time on Ebay.

Thanks Dan,

I will look into your listing.

Our 996 is 2003 and yes I still need the code because I just replaced the battery.

I pulled the fuses for the amp and radio to prevent them from draining my new battery.

I wonder if yours would work on our 996......

Hi all,

My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself). I sort of ignored it cus I could tab the amplifier a few times to bring it back to life.

It became so bad, it kept switching on and off even I locked the car.

Well, the result was it drained the battery and my car was dead.

Battery has to be replaced by a new one. It has been over five years, so it is about time anyway.

The parts and labor for replacing the amp is $850! Well, thanks but no thanks.

I asked them to pull the fuse for the radio and amp before they install the new battery.

Just curious, where exactly is the fuse?

If I decide to install the amp myself, what special tools I need? Do I need the radio code?If so, where can I get the code?

Thanks!

Hi Hoth:

Not sure what MY your vehicle is, but I removed the Bose amps (main amp plus subwoofer amp) from my 2002 996C2 (last of the non-MOST 911s) and have them listed on Craigslist (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/757242975.html). I'm sure there are others out there on eBay also. Don't waste your money on a unit from the dealer.

Hope this helps,

Dan