Highlander

For my edification, won't the Boxster do this automatically, without the MAF being disconnected.

Only if the sensor goes bad. If it is sending erroneous (but still in-range) values, the results is poor/no start, poor idle, backfires and generally crappy running unless lots of throttle is used.

Graeme.

Classic fouled MAF sensor symptoms.

Easy to check. Get into the engine compatment and disconnect your MAF. If the car starts and runs fine, you have found the problem.

The MAF sensor is used to fine tune the mixture for emmissions. Disconnecting it will set a CEL, but the engine will run fine without it.. I drove 140+ miles no problems with a disconnected MAF after having similar symptoms.

The whizzing noise is a good thing. It means your fuel pump is working :)

Good Luck,

Graeme :)

No DIY because it is so simple :)

The hardest part is getting at the engine. If your filter is particularly dirty, some loose dirt may fall into the clean side of the intake when you remove it. This is not a problem, just make sure you vacuum it up and/or clean it out with a damp cloth before you install the new filter.

Good Luck,

Graeme

Does anyone know of a supplier of threaded studs so I don't need to deal with juggling wheel/spacer/bolt at the track.

I'm talking about this kind of thing readily available for BMW's

http://www.tcklineracing.com/wheelstud.htm

Next time I have a bolt off I could measure it, but being lazy I thought I'd ask here first.

What is the thread spacing. 14x1.5 rings a bell. Am I correct?

TIA,

Graeme

:welcome: First off, welcome to the Boxster community. Great cars, great people.

As Steve said, the brief rattle is normal. Another thing that is normal but can be very concerning if you don't know to expect it is an occasional puff of smoke on startup.

With modern cars, it's best to drive off as soon as the car is started. Again, good advice from Steve, drive gently and try not to exceed 3-4k rpm until the engine is fully up to temperature... unless it's a leased car in which case you can just drive the heck out of it immediately......j/k :jump:

Graeme

The easiest straight line performance mod is to sell it and buy a Corvette Z06! :jump:

Unfortunately, there are no easy mods to significantly improve straight line performance. You can get improvements indirectly by fitting lighter wheels and/or seats. Minor improvements of maybe 5 or 6hp can be gained by replacing the airbox with a modified intake from people like FVD or EVO. This comes at the expense of MAF sensors which are easily fouled by the oiled filter. It is also not an easy install and it typically requires destroying the old airbox.

The other alternative is to shell out big buck$ for headers/ECU and maybe an exhaust.

DO NOT REPLACE THE EXHAUST BY ITSELF, unless you go with the GHL 5". Every other aftermarket exhaust will reduce your hp!

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,

Graeme

It came from a post on BRB back in august '01 http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/archive.cgi?read=10484

The post quoted info from Nov2000 Excellence.

Mabey I should drop them an email.

Graeme

Here is what I have for -MY02

OD ID

2.5/2.7 23.1 3.4

S, 2.7-030 23.6 3.5

S-030 24 3.8

Can you confirm these numbers? I'm only interested in front bar details.

Thanks again,

Graeme

I really need accurate info Jeff. I'm looking to calculate relative stiffness of the different bars, so the ID is essential.

Thanks,

Graeme

Anyone have front swaybar dimensions for 03/04 Boxster? What I'm looking for is ID and OD for base, base+030, S, S+030.

Sorry if this has come up before. I tried the search and got a server error,

Thanks,

Graeme

Craig,

I regularly ride the brake quite hard heading to the startline at autocrosses in my '01 Boxster S with eGas.

This must be something new.

Graeme