Highlander

 

 

 

 

They are referring to retreating the fabric with a water repellant material.

 

 

That's what I thought.  My fabric still beads quite well, so nothing needed there yet

 

 

On my 996 I clean all of the areas that meet the glass and windshield frame with simple green and then lubricate with a silicone lubricant.

I use Gummi Pflege to condition the rubber surfaces after cleaning with a mild detergent.

 

Are there regular lubrication spots?  A little lithium grease everywhere there is a pivot point or an obvious metal to metal contact point?  Sparingly of course to avoid getting any on the canvas top.

Is there any regular maintenance that can be done to keep the top mechanism in, um, er, "tip-top" condition?  :jump:

I'm doing a regular service on my '07 this weekend.  I have the service checklist, but the only thing top related is:

"Maintain and care for convertible top at 20,000 miles (30,000 km) or every 2 years"

 

Since this is my first service since buying the car, I'm going to do everything I can to get a good baseline.   

Thanks guys.  Since I don't have easy access to PIWIS, I'll just wait until I see issues.

Thanks Loren.

 

So the battery is not replaceable?  You have to install new transmitters?  Porsche has been reading Apple's design guidelines... :)

I was reading the official Porsche Service sheet for my '07 Boxster S and it mentions "Check battery for the tire pressure monitoring system"

What exactly does this entail?

 

Thanks.

On a lot of cars, the only thing that can be adjusted is the toe.  On Boxsters, front camber can also be adjusted.  Maybe that's what they mean by "specialty alignment".  It does take more time to adjust toe and camber - as camber adjustments effect toe, so it would not be unreasonable to charge more for a Boxster alignment over say, a Camry or even a 3-series BMW that has no factory camber adjustment.

I finally got a chance to really examine the various straps and chords that ensure the top closes properly.  what I found is there is a very wide strap with some elastic screwed to a bar down on the bowels of the mechanism.  The elastic was not hardly elastic at all any more.

I fixed it by pinching the elastic (to make it shorter), then zip tied it to keep it there. 

 

Voilà, the side wire now slides perfectly behind the trim,  :thumbup:

Thanks RFM,

 

That's really good info.  I'll go check it out some more when I get a chance and report back!

Thanks for the suggestion.

I finally got a chance to take a good look in there and as far as I can tell, everything is connected properly and nothing is broken, or visibly worn.

 

I compared the left side that functions properly, to the right side, where the cable ends up on the outside of the trim.  I can see no difference in how all of the cables, catches and elasticated bands are routed.

 

Any more suggestions from anyone?

I had this exact same problem on my old 986.  Never did figure it out on that car.

 

Anyone know what needs to be adjusted/fixed to get the cable to run behind the trim?

 

Any and all help/suggestion welcome.

TIA

 

Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence.   More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:

The function of TPMS is to determine if your tire pressures have dropped.    As you may remember from high school physics,  the Combined Gas Law states that pressure increases with temperature.  Since you don't want TPMS triggering a low pressure warning just because it happens to be -10 degrees outside, the system has to compensate for the temperature.  It is this temperature compensated pressure that is displayed on the dash.

 

I use the dash pressure as a reference.  If it shows I'm off by 2psi, I use my gauge to see what pressure that reads and set the pressure to 2psi over that.   Works a treat :thumbup:

Have you received your lift?  Does it work?

I'm really interested to find out.

Culled from this earlier discussion:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/8152-headlight-washer-plate-blew-off-in-high-wind-high-speed/?hl=headlight%20washer

 

 

1) Switch on your headlights
2) Get someone inside the car to activate the headlight washer (the pop-up headlight washer won't work unless you have the headlights on)
3) The little spray head under the (missing) chrome cover will pop up out of the hole in the headlight and washer fluid will start to spray onto the headlight
4) Grab the spray head and hold it (it has quite powerful spring loading that wants to pull it back into the headlight)
5) There is a little square plastic tab with a square hole in it on the base of the spray head that has to be flexed back slightly to get the spray head to disengage from some plastic teeth on the nozzle (look at the replacement chrome cover and spray head and you will see this tab). Once you have lifted this tab up slightly the spray head will slide right off the nozzle.

 

Good Luck!

 

Well that was easy!

 

Used the fantastic instructions here to get the console off:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41495-center-console-removalshort-shift-kit-install/

 

 

One electrical connector on the handbrake assembly and 4, 13mm nuts and the replacement was done!

I don't really want to shell out $150 for a new interior door pull.    Has anyone had luck touching up a minor scratch?   It's an interesting paint color.  Can't think what would blend well.

 

TIA,

Graeme

Are these anything to be concerned about?

There are no obvious symptoms driving or using the car, I just caught these when I hooked up my Durametric to clear an airbag light I set off myself when I installed my new handbrake assembly.

 

'07 987 S, 48k miles.

 

TIA,

Graeme

     

Porsche Access System - PAS

      Current Fault Codes 8004:
Terminal 50

 

 

         

Rear Body Module

      Current Fault Codes 8050:
Passenger compartment monitoring communication  

 

 

   

Seat Memory

      Current Fault Codes C102:
CAN single-wire operation "comfort"    

 

Thanks!  :thumbup:

I'll update with pics once it's done. 

Hi all!

I purchased a used 2007 987 Boxster recently which came with an AUX cable from the CDR-24 unit. I never bothered to ask the previous owner about how the AUX cable worked since I assumed I just need to plug in my iPod and listen to the music. Turns out it's not as easy as that. I don't know if a FM modulator is installed or a Dension (I assume these are the only two options available). Any suggestions how to determine which one is used and how to get the AUX cable working ? Thank a ton for all suggestions and help!

Forgot to mention, I have the basic sound sytem (Not sound plus or Bose installed)

A bit late on the reply, but on my car, you select Aux.   Press the "s" button" until Aux shows up on the display.

I recently purchased the alcantara shift boot/knob and handbrake assembly from Suncoast.

 

There are lot's of DIY's on the shift boot replacement and a few of removing the center console, but nothing I have been able to find on the actual handbrake assembly.

 

Anyone have words of wisdom before I start ripping the interior apart?  Anyone know if I have to remove the carpet?

 

TIA,

Graeme

3M kit is really good. I recommend applying a Xpel clear film after. Otherwise the UV will re-damage the lights.

 

+1 on the 3M kit.  Buy 2.  I went through a whole kit on each lens on my Boxster.

+1 on a good UV protectant too.   1 year after the refurb, my headlights started to yellow.  Quickly got rid of the yellowing with ScratchX, but it would not have been necessary if I had taken the time to put a good UV protectant on them.

https://admin.porschedealer.com/reports/build_sheets/index.php

 

here is a link to your cars build sheet.. see what the original cost was vs what u paid ,, possibly that might cheer u up and make any repair bills easier to handle - good luck sorting out the car had mine 6 months and still  figuring it all out...PPI is only as good as the mechanic doing it...

 

Thanks!  $126,750 + taxes probably needed a $135,000 check to purchase originally.  The Aero Kit alone is a whopping $7,500!  Ouch!!!!

 

I'm going to go outside my comfort zone and look at the door handle myself.   Based on diagrams and pictures of 996/986 handles on eBay, and the way the handle feels when I pull it, I think I might know what is broken.  If I'm correct, it's an easy fix.  I just have to get to it!

 

I cleared the airbag light with my Durametric and it has not come back yet.  I'm sure it will eventually but I'll deal with it then.

As I mentioned on my previous post, I'm really not comfortable pulling door panels and trim to fix my door handle myself.

 

Can anyone recommend a good indy shop in the Pleasanton/Livermore/Dublin area? 

 

SAS German Auto gets good reviews on Yelp, but mostly on BMW's.  Anyone tried them?

 

I called the Porsche dealer in Livermore and all I got was attitude, so they are my shop of last resort.

 

I'd prefer a shop local to Pleasanton, but I'm willing to go anywhere in the East Bay, or even down into the San Jose area for the right shop.

 

TIA,

Highlander

Thanks everyone.  My post was a therapeutic rant more than anything else.  Jeff (as usual) hit it on the head.  I'm still a little miffed about the PPI.  I specifically called the dealership and spoke to the tech who did the work explaining exactly what I wanted out of the whole thing. c'est la vie.

 

Other than the seat rails and the horn beep, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the car now that I would have picked up on during a personal test drive.  In this particular case, the sight unseen purchase is not even relevant.  I'm not upset at the dealer either.  I have been in contact with them and the owner is being very supportive.   All of the things that are wrong are simply bad timing - for me!  They could all just have easily happened while the car was being test driven by some other potential buyer.  Would I buy a car sight unseen again?  For the right car at the right price (which for me, this car was)?  Absolutely!

 

It's an '02 with 28,800 miles on the clock, and I still absolutely love it!   The door handle and seat belt receptacle are ticking time bombs on all 996's - not just TT's.  The misfire?  I had expected to need to do the coil/plug replacement at some point, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to do it so soon :eek:

 

I'm really nervous when it comes to trim R&R.  I can't handle random rattles and if I were to attempt a fix on the door, I'm sure I'd mess something up.  Thanks for the offer 987_RDC, but this time I'm going to let the dealer handle it - get it "handle it", hahahahahaha :jump:

Again, I was really bummed last night and just needed to vent!.  :cheers:

OK, so I have to vent. I have had this vehicle in my physical possession for exactly 3 weeks.

I took a bit of a risk buying this car sight unseen, but with a service history and PPI by the local Porsche dealer, I thought I was going to be OK. Boy was I wrong :blush:.

The PPI passed with flying colors. Only comments were that an aftermarket head unit was fitted and the front brakes would need replaced soon, and it would need rotors as well as pads. No big deal on the brakes, and the aftermarket head unit gave me hands free calls and bluetooth audio - awesome!

Once I (finally) get the car 3 weeks later, the first thing I find is that the passenger seat won't adjust if you are sitting in it. It doesn't move smoothly on the tracks even when not sitting in it. Probably damaged or misalighed tracks. Hmmm, no mention of that on the PPI.

Lock the car for the first time and the horn beeps! I wonder why? I know the radio is aftermarket and if it has not been installed correctly it can cause this error. No mention of of this in the PPI either. What else did they miss?

I drove the car for 2 weeks on my commute and had a few "spirited" runs both in a straight line and through the local canyon. Wow! Fantastic. Put the seat adjustment and horn beep to the back of my mind.

Then, early last week, I floor it. Revs to ~5k and the car stumbles, the check engine light flashes and I get "drive to service" on the dash. CE light went off as soon as I got off the gas. So quickly in fact that I thought it was the PSM light. Pulled the codes from the Durametric. Excessive misfires and Misfires on cylinders 4 and 6. I had never experience a car with misfires before, so it was an eye opener. I realize this has been happening mildly all along at WOT and high revs. I had put the momentary stumble down to either lack of traction or some AWD jiggery pokery. So, PPI missed that one too. In their defense, I would never have picked up on it had I test drove the car personally, but then again, I'm not a factory trained Porsche Tech.

The next day, driving in to work, the passenger seat starts rattling something fierce. Can't figure out where it's coming from, but it's driving me bananas. WTF is going on with this car!!!!

Then on Thursday last week, the dreaded "air bag failure" message comes up and the air bag light is illuminated. Crap, not another thing!

Now, I can only assume the misfires are coil/plug related. I can get to those myself. I had just hoped I might get more than 2 weeks of ownership before it was required.

The air bag light is probably the seat belt receptacle (how that is not a safety recall, I'll never understand). If it is, I can get in there with the resistor fix" for that too. Again, not quite on my plan of activities with my "new" car.

Then today, the pièce de résistance I can't open the drivers door with the outside handle. The handle pulls out a little, the window drops, but it does not unlatch. I can open it with the inside handle, but not the outside handle. Is this is a common issue, or am I just "lucky"?

OK, I'll climb off my soapbox now....