Highlander

I know this happens when a locking mechanism or sensor goes bad. Both doors and trunks as well as the gas cover all lock fine, but I still sometimes get the double horn beep unlocking the car. Also, the red light on the manual locking switch sometimes stays on.

Durametric shows 2 fault codes on the Alarm system but states "This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an idication of a problem and no repair is needed"

attachment=28096:boxster-AlarmFaultCodes.jpg]

The double beep indicated there really is a problem. Do the faults listed give a clue where the issue is?

TIA,

Graeme

Sorry, just noticed this question. Did you get it sorted out?

It could be a worn CV joint? It is common for the rubber boots protecting the CV joint to fail and grit/grime to get into the joint.

Get under the car (safely) and see if your CV boots are intact.

It could also be a wheel bearing. Does the noise get worse when you corner?

Your rear wheels will always be harder to turn than your fronts as they are connected to the gearbox. Even with the car out of gear, there is significantly more "stuff" turning with the wheel (2 constant velocity joints, the driveshaft, plus a bunch of gears inside the gearbox).

Are you sure the heat is coming from the rear wheels and not just escaping through the wheelwell from the engine compartment? Do you have an IR thermometer? If you do, you can get temps from the rotors to see if the heat is engine heat or brake heat.

Good Luck,

Graeme

Freon is a gas at ambient temperatures, it would not create a puddle on the floor. That is most likely coolant.

Yup, but the system contains a whole lot of lubricant with the freon. If there is a freon leak, you won't see freon, but you will find the leaky area wet with lubricant. I wouldn't think it would leave a puddle on the floor though. More likely just "wet" areas around the leak.

I definately second the suggestion to leave this to the pro's. There are a whole lot of things that can cause poor cooling and you need pretty specialized kit to find and repair them.

Good Luck!

Thanks for sharing,

If you track your car, or just think you'll be needing to bleed your brakes, I strongly recommend the Motive Power Bleeder (available online at a bunch of places). Their instructions say to fill the bleeder tank with fluid. I simpy make sure the reservoir is full and use the pressure from the Power Bleeder to push the fluid through.

Makes brake bleeding a simple, quick one person job and alleviates the need for all the brake pedal pushing.

If the problem is on the inside of the lens, removal of the lens is possible. I did it by heating the assembly to 200 degrees for 30 minutes in my oven. The finesse part is prying the lens off without scratching the underside of the lens. I did some searching and found some instructions that helped a lot. I cannot find the link I used. I did the open and closing about a year ago and have not had any moisture problems. I used some automotive sealant to reseal the assemblies. I wish you well.

Wow. I'm not that brave! All of the plastics on the front of my car have become extremely brittle. I'm going to have to glue the little orange triangles back on as the mounting tabs on both of them broke off as I was - very carefully - removing the headlight from the fender.

I guess if I ever decide I can't live with them as-is and sm ready to buy new assemblies, it would be worth a shot to try to take them apart to clean the inside.

Thanks for the tip.

The black tube you see is another electrical connection. Only 2 pins.

All of the hydraulic lines use flare fittings.

I just finished polishing my headlights and was a little dissapointed at the results. Upon close inspection, it appears I have exactly the same problem you have. It looks like grime on the inside of the plastic that I could simply wipe off if I could get to it.

Finally got some free time to finishing getting this expensive hunk of aluminium and electronics out of the car.

There are a few plastic caps on the piece and as RFM suggested, fluid was leaking from one. Of course, the one that was leaking was the one thats beside the fender, and the only one not visible until you remove the block itself...

You can see how wet the cap is here (it goes on the brass nipple in the middle):

I decided to bite the bullet and order a new one from board sponsor Sunset Porsche. Their price was less than 2/3's the retail price - still a pretty spendy part! It's going to take 2-3 weeks to get one from Germany :(

I also ordered the Version 6 compatible Durametric cable so that I can effectively bleed the system once it's all back together.

Thanks to all for their suggestions and support :thumbup:

Both versions are capable of activating the pump for the bleeding/flushing on a 986.

Thanks! I guess I just need to update the cable so I can run Version 6 of the software.

The ABS/PSM control system is a very expensive unit. If you get a used one, be careful, they are sensitive to dirt, moisture and corrosion, so know whom you are buying it from. You will also need access to a PST II/PIWIS or Durametric system to swap it out as it requires a special bleeding sequence and activation.

Does the duramteric pro support ABS/PSM activation now? Their website FAQ states it only works on 964's. I have been toying with purchasing the Pro (already own the enthusiast version) and this feature will convince me to upgrade.

Are you sure it isn't a cracked line? They are a lot cheaper.............

I hope it's a cracked line or leaky connection, but the fluid is coming from the side that has no lines atached - it's the side adjacent to the fender so I won't know 'till I get it off completely.

Thanks,

Graeme

Just found out this is a $3600 part - no reman available!!!!

Anyone have suggestions for a wrecking yard that specializes in Porsche parts? This should be a pretty common piece from cars that got hit from behind.

Looked at it again. It's the black tubes attached to the master cylinder, not the brake booster.

On looking further though, I should be able to remove the ABS block without removing the master cylinder. Do you agree?

Thanks,

Graeme

Couldn't decide whether to post this here or in the suspension/brakes/wheels sub forum. Since this is actually a braking system issue, decided to post here...

Sitting at a light the other day with my foot on the brake, all of a sudden my foot slowly went to the floor! Bummer, I thought. Time for a new master cylinder. Babied the car home (was pretty close anyway) and safely parked in the driveway. Ordered a nice new master cylinder and when it arrived, went out to pull off the old one.

Pulled all the carpeting and trim and in doing so, noticed brake fluid in the bottom of the ABS/PSM proportioning block (the big aluminium cube with all the brake lines attached). There was also fluid under the carpet in the front trunk. I cleaned up the mess and after a thorough inspection, could not determine the source of the brake fluid. Once I got my son to help by pushing gently on the brake pedal, I saw the fluid was coming from the side of the ABS/PSM proportioning block that is adjacent to the fender.

Question 1 - Anyone experience this, or know what it might be?

I started to dissasemble everything so I can pull it off to get a look at where the fluid is coming from (since it's impossible to see with it mounted in the car). Unfortunately, I got stuck attempting to remove the black tubes from the brake booster.

Question 2 - how are those black tubes removed? I don't want to pull too hard, but then again, I can't see any latch mechanism.

I'll post pictures when I get the ABS/PSM proportioning block off.

TIA,

Graeme

Tried leaving a battery charger on the emergency power terminal while changing out my battery, but to no avail...

2001 Boxster S

Becker CDR220

Type: 4462

S/N: W5009520

Thanks,

Graeme

I recently ordered RoW M030 from Sunset and expecting it in late Feb. :clapping: How much should I expect to pay to have it installed? I've read your posts and am a little skeptical that I can get it done in one weekend. She is my daily driver.

Thanks,

Hung

Expect to pay about $800-$1000 if you get a dealer to do it, $600-$800 for an independent.

Good Luck

Great how-to on brakes on Trygve Issacson's website:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/proje...leed_and_flush/

As for flushing the clutch? Highly recommended.

Please in future, post questions about brakes to the Suspension, Brakes and Wheels sub-forum

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showforum=100

Thanks.

Those should fit without the need for spacers.

I have successfully run 245/40-17's on the stock 7" fronts. It's a bit of a squeeze and not an optimal contact patch, but it works.

Finding the spring rate info has been very hard. From what I can see no one knows or can release what oem rates are and the aftermarket spring rates are hard to come by.

From what I can figure out, the rate is how much force it takes to compress the springs 1 inch.

Cross uses 393/450

PSS9 260/345

H and R 220/230

If anyone has additions to this list please post them.

Cross are also available with 450/500 (504) and 500/560.

The Cross coilovers (made by JIC) use standard 60mm dia, 150mm long springs and AFAIK the PSS9's use 2.5" dia 6" long springs, so you can get pretty much any spring rate you want with either of those setups. OTOH H&R uses a variable rate spring, so you are stuck with their choice of spring rate.

I have a set of the Cross 450/500's and I don't find the ride too harsh for the pretty decent roads around where I live. I do try to avoid potholes and manhole covers though :)

One last thing. Please use the 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels sub-forum above for future suspension discussions.

Everything looks pretty straightforward except removing the hose clamp. I do not own a set of hose clamp pliers. My philosophy on buying tools is this: I take the labor charge if I were to have the dealer do it and use that as my tool budget. With that in mind. Can anyone who has done this job recommend a set of hose clamp pliers for me.

Thanks.

I had a similar problem. I believe the bolt extends out of the hub and the threaded end gets dirty or corroded.

Ding, ding, ding, we have a winner!

A few threads can protrude through the hub and collect dirt/grime (they have an anti-corrosion coating that has survived many Colorado winters on my car, so corrosion shouldn't be a big problem). If you simply unscrew the bolt, the dirt/grime messes up the nice soft aluminum threads in the hub. You should always clean any protruding threads prior to removing the calipers.

Thanks for bringing this up, I'm just about to put the stock suspension back on my car had had forgotten about this potential problem. Your pain might just have saved me some. THANKS!!! :cheers:

Trust the sensors.

Unlike some manufacturers, Porsche fits a sensor to each and every pad. If the brake wear indicator is not illuminated, they are unlikely to be completely worn out. By al means do a visual inspection, but it's highly unlikely your squeak is being caused by the pad backing plate contacting the rotor.

Good Luck

What is the offset on the rear wheels?

Yup, that's the right one.

I just had to use one of those yesterday. It does work, but it is more difficult to seat on the balljoint. Also, you have to be sure to leave the nut screwed on the balljoint so the top of the threaded shaft is level with the top of the nut.

Good Luck