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timbo

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Everything posted by timbo

  1. timbo
    I'm not talking about cooling, I'm talking about drying, It stands to reason that the air under the car when parked overnight is likely to be more humid therefore allowing corrosion. Better ventilation to the outer surface would mean that the disc will be dryer, makes perfect sense to me. I notice a number of other components under the car also suffer from corrosion in this area. It may be that as air leaves through the wheels salt and other crud gets deposited on the discs. Can you explain how bleeding the brakes helps prevent this.
  2. timbo
    Not sure of the cause but its definately nothing to do with alingment, uneven pad wear is caused by the disc surface itself not being even. As for cleaning and bleeding, well all the pistons in the calipers were free and working fine, I don't think you would get this kind of identical wear pattern on both rear discs, that would mean there would have to be an identical problem on both rear calipers. Its been said befor that the cause might be due to moisture, the outside surface getting more air to dry the surface, not sure about this but when it happens its usually the inner surface that seems to corrode the most.
  3. timbo
    Very uneven and cracked, despite this the pedal was good. Don't yet know much this will affect braking as I haven't had time to bed them in. This is my first Boxster and have felt that quite a bit more effort is needed on the pedal than other cars I have driven, but I read here thats normal.
  4. timbo
    Hi All, thought you might be interested in some pics of my rear discs on my 2000 2.7 I've just replaced after 50k. I have seen posts about similar wear on front discs but rears. From outside the car you wouldn't know there was a problem, it was only when the car was up on ramps that this was spotted. Incidentaly, replacement was a very simple job the only additional tool needed was a 10mm hex socket. (think I've managed to upload pics! here goes anyway.)
  5. timbo
    Thanks Toolpants, that's very useful. I have to say that the plug thats done 30K still looks pretty good to me. Think I'll just change them to be on the safe side.
  6. timbo
    Thanks guys, I was looking at the ceramic part and obviously didn't pick up all the plug spec just the R6, definately got 4 electrodes though. Anyone care to speculate on whether these are likely to be the original plugs.
  7. timbo
    Hi all, just had a look at my spark pluge to see if they need changing. Currently fitted are Beru Ultra R6 940. I was wondering if these are likely to be the original plugs. The car is a 2000 2.7 tip with 50k. Not used to multi electrode plugs I found it difficult to tell if they were worn or not. Seemed to have quite a large gap but electrodes not rounded. could these be original?
  8. timbo
    I think this is probably normal. I have a UK car so I guess your passengers side is my drivers side, I too have a faint ticking rather like a loud watch. This is my theory. Sound can come out of the Drivers side vent (UK) as there is a cooling fan behind the vent so noise can travel out easily. I think the noise might be the injectors, not sure, some previous cars I've had had ticking injectors but I'm not sure about Porsche ones. As the other side is the air intake its difficult for other engine noises to escape. Mine has always done this, its only feint but when I open the door I can just hear it.
  9. timbo
    Hi, I would be interested to know if its possible to program an audible signal when the car is locked. I know this was possible on my BMW 320ci but I haven't read anything in the manual for the Boxster.
  10. timbo
    Thanks guys, I've already done the air filter, interestingly I got 0.1 extra MPG, not a lot I know but shows that the filter needed changing. Ready to do MAF when we get some decent weather over here. Your point about the skewed posts is a valid one, perhaps more of us ought to write in with our positive experiences.
  11. timbo
    Hi all, I've had my Boxster nearly 3 months now and I'm gradually settling down into every day ownership mode, driving to and from work each day, loving the sound @ around 5K rpm onwards and the fantastic cornering. I'm coming to terms with my paranoia which is refreshed on a weekly bassis when I read of other peoples misfortune of a catastrophic low mileage engine failure, and the lack of support from Porsche. Mine is about to turn 50K so am I out of the woods yet? (2000 2.7 tip) Any way my querry is that on start up particularly in the morning there is a vibration for about 2- 3 seconds, sometimes its worse than others, sometimes hardly noticeable. Oil light out straight away, engine runs as smooth as silk. No noise when cornering, and engine feels secure when I grabbed hold of it and gave it a good shake the other day. I'm thinking engine mounts but not sure why the vibration isn't there all the time and no other symptoms. Would appreciate any ones thoughts. ps. do IMS failures occur more in manuals or tips?
  12. timbo
    Sprays won't work because they can't get to the route of the problem, inside the joint the ball end usually fits in a plastic cup and is sealed with grease on manufacture, I don't know why this dries up but it just does, then it creeks. If you want a temporary fix then get a syringe with some thick oil in it, push the needle through the rubber gator arround the joint and inject some oil. Did this on mine two months ago, no noise since. Ok the joint may need replacing if it has got play in it, but it gives you some time to sort it properly with out cringing every time you go over a bump with passers by stareing at your car for all the wrong reasons.
  13. timbo
    Has anyone ever taken an AOS apart to see what exactly it is that goes wrong? Years ago when I worked as a mechanic in a Volvo garage we used to get a problem with the spark arrestor in the breather tube becoming blocked with carbonised oil, pressure would build up in the crank case and oil would come out of all the oil seals. I know this is slightly different but it would be interesting to know weather its due to a mechanical failure or blockage.
  14. timbo
    Looks lovely...................pitty its not easy to get at.....a nice clean engine makes you want to just look at it!
  15. timbo
    Hi Chris, lesson in English number 2, NS = near side, side nearest to the curb. Of course you know a hood is a bonnet and a trunk is a boot, a stick shift is a manual, a windshield is a windscreen, lifters are cam followers, parting out is breaking, mufflers are silencers, track control arms are wish bones, all perfectly logical !!! http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/tghair1811
  16. timbo
    Sorry Chris I was assuming we spoke the same language, (I'm from the UK where we speak English.......only kidding) OS = OFF side ie not the drivers side. I'm really trying not to get too anal about this wheel thing but it basically boils down to the fact that the slots in the wheels are not symetrical. I'm going to try to put a pic on to show what I mean, but please don't anybody expend too much energy over this.
  17. timbo
    Thanks Chris, the car is 2003 2.7 with 50k, no other issues regarding this particular oil leak....no loss of oil etc, although I do have an axle shaft oil seal leak but thts another matter. out of interest does the AOS become blocked? what actually goes wrong with it, I find it hard to imagine its a complicated part.
  18. timbo
    Thanks Chris, the car is 2003 2.7 with 50k, no other issues regarding this particular oil leak....no loss of oil etc, although I do have an axle shaft oil seal leak but thts another matter. out of interest does the AOS become blocked? what actually goes wrong with it, I find it hard to imagine its a complicated part.
  19. timbo
    Das ist very interesting !!!!!!!!!!!
  20. timbo
    Silly questions I know but they puzzle me, Why does the HVAC spell manual as manuell? and looking at my wheels they seem not to be handed, what I mean is the design seems to point one way on the NS and the other on the OS, does that make sense? ie the tapped part of the spoke.
  21. timbo
    I have exactly the same leak, put a post on it earlier in the week but got no replies, I mopped up the leak with some paper towels on the end of a piece of wire. Later in the week I put my hand under the pipe and felt a small drip of oil. It's where there is a join in the pipe. My worry was, was this due to any back pressure due to a duff AOS or is it just a leak which could be fixed with some sealant.
  22. timbo
    Hi all, just been topping up my hydraulic fluid and noticed a small amount of oil on the engine RHS. Felt a small drip below the join in the oil filler tube, its not much but just wondered wether this was common or an indication of anything else, or nothing to worry about. Thanks, Timbo
  23. timbo
    Ah.............. thought that might be it, looked a bit small though. it was the clip right next to that which was corroded through. Thanks for the pic.
  24. timbo
    Thanks PK, I wonder if SWEPCO can be bought in the UK Timbo
  25. timbo
    Couldn't resist it any longer, since being a Boxster owner (6 weeks now)I've been missing the occasional gawp at the engine so I decided to take a second peek, glad I did. Noticed the jubelee clip fixing the air intake pipe to the air box was completely corroded and came off in my hand, luckily I had a spare clip which fitted. I looked arround to try to identify all the various components I've read so much about on this site, throttle body, coil packs etc no problem but couldn't spot the MaF. Decided to check the hydraulic fluid, not a dickle bird on the end of the stick, so much for the service it was supposed to have had prior to my purchase. Question is do I have to use Pentosin? I'm assuming this is for the power steering, can't I use normal ATF ?
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