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drafting

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Posts posted by drafting

  1. First change your brake fluid to Castrol SRF, it is the best period. It is more expensive ie $60 per quart (that is all you need) vs $10 for the blue stuff, so expensive but not in the whole scheme of things.

    Next, change your pads to Pagid Orange, front and rear. Read the posts on proper "brake pad bedding in" and follow it closely. these pads are tremendously better!!! Yes I leave them on all the time. They work so well on the street you would not know the difference. [/i]

    I hope that helps!

    Cheers,

    Jaime (a.k.a. Wachuko)

    Jaime ---

    thx for your response. Pagid is pretty much what i was thinking about. one concern that i have is that on the Pagid web site, they disclaim utilizing the orange pads for street use. not sure what the ramifications are, if they are not a good all-round pad for use in say wet conditions or not so terrific for light duty driving, or why they would not sign up to street use. Pagid also seems to recommmend using orange for the rear and black for the front. no clue why that would be, since they also have orange pads spec'd for the front. I hadn't thought of going w/ other than ATE brake fluid, but after reading the specs on the Castrol, i think that i'll go that route. seems a better choice.

    as an aside, it's surprising just how radically different the Pagid instructions are for bedding in the sport pads vs. the racing pads.

    thx again!

    jeff

  2. Anyone have a recommendation regarding brake pads that would be best for me to use when driving my '04 turbo during DE events? I'm going to Sebring for a two day event in a couple of weeks, and am a tad leary of using the stock pads with all of those turns and long fast straights. The car is bone stock. TIA!

    Jeff

  3. Loren/Jeff ---

    You guys are awesome! Thanks for the quick replies, I've gone ahead and purchased one of the kits.

    They also have a ROW M030 suspension kit that was pulled from a 01 TT after 2000 miles and replaced w/ a RUF kit, for sale for $599 (image attached). Think that this is a decent buy or even a good thing to consider buying?

    Thanks again for the help, as always.

    Jeffpost-307-1136329308.jpg

  4. I am wanting to go ahead and install the short shifter option on my 04 996TT. I see that Brandywine Porsche has the OEM kit for sale on eBay (p/n 000-044-700-26) for $279. The price appears good from what I can recall. Is this all that I need? It seems to me the last time that I was considering this that there were more parts included in the kit (specifically a black housing piece). I'm going to try to attach an image of what they are selling as well. Should I also purchase the cable length verification tool that I've seen posted by Jeff (toolpants)?

    Sorry if this is covered elsewhere, I searched the forums and the diy pages for info, to no avail. I've not posted in awhile now, my car has been in storage for several months. Once I rescue her from that enforced solitude, she and I can get re-aquainted while I perform the shifter changeout!

    TIA

    Jeff

    post-307-1136324108.jpg

  5. I discovered the lack of dipstick during my first attempt at adding oil to my two day old TT, while gassing up in Switzerland. I'm poking around the engine bay looking for a dipstick, and after 10 minutes or so of stubborn US male stereotypically refusing to go and get "the book", I finally pulled the manual out of my luggage and was enlightened. I'm quite sure that the lady at the petrol station was having a good giggle. Sadly enough, I had actually read the owners manual cover to cover on the flight over, but apparently blazed through the sans-dipstick section. :oops:

    fwiw, She was using about a quart every 800 miles early on, and now I'm down to adding a quart about every 1200 miles (at around the 7400 mile mark).

    Jeff

  6. At decelleration in gear or out of gear - however more so in gear at about 2000-1800 RPM's (usually in second gear) the car exhibits a loud metal on metal sounding squeal.  Sometimes it goes away when I depress the clutch sometimes not.

    I have noticed what I would describe as a slight buzzing sound when decelerating in gear towards a stop (not using the engine to slow down, but brakes on prior to pushing in the clutch). The gear that I'm in does not seem to matter, and I haven't paid attention to the rpms at which it occurs as it happens all the time. It goes away every time immediately upon initiating clutch depression.

    The sound is almost inconsequential, but I do monitor it to ensure that it does not worsen and become a harbinger of some sort of bad thing. fwiw.....

    ciao for niao

    Jeff

    '04 TT Coupe, bone stock

  7. That shift knob also bothers me.  Same that we get on a Boxster S.  I took out a fancy carbon one out of Josh's GT2 and I think put in a Box S standard 6 speed shift, I think. 

    Is that the correct shift knob for a base turbo?  Because it is the same as a Boxster S or a 996.

    Yep, that is the same stock shifter that is in my '04 TT coupe. I'd like to replace it and my e-brake w/ the CF units. Gert carries them, so barring some other more cost effective choice, I'll be ordering them from him.

    Whatever happened to this car? This is the sort of thing that you'd think would motivate PCNA to act quickly; I mean the fact that this could even occur is just so silly. The bad PR by itself should make them want to make the problem go away, right now.

    Jeff

  8. Jack ---

    Thanks for the pics and info. I've gone ahead and purchased the et 33 offset Comp 18s (eBay) and now am awaiting my car to see what I've got regarding the fitup of the wheels. I'm not planning on messing w/ the suspension anytime soon. If I get in any significant track time then that plan may change if I discover that I'd like a stiffer, lowered ride. As one of my every day drivers here in oh-so-flat Florida, the TT will not see the limits pushed (mine, or its own :rolleyes: ) very frequently.

    I'll post here once things have been worked out. The car is in port awaiting offload and trucking to my dealer. I'm crossing my fingers that I'll be driving it again w/in two weeks.

    Jeff

  9. Loren ---

    I did call John Brown @ Wheel Enhancement, he was very courteous and helpful. I had actually misunderstood what you had said about offset, and now do get that the offset (in mm) is the distance from the centerline of the wheel to the outside face of the wheel. So, if I go to a wheel w/ a 33 mm offset (from an OEM wheel w/ a 50 mm offset), that will actually result in the outer rim of the wheel being further away from the centerline of the car (closer to the fender lip). No spacers required, and according to John there is no risk of the tire rubbing on the fender.

    Thanks for all of the guidance.

    Jeff

  10. Loren ---

    Thanks for the info; I have the OEM turbo twist wheels for '04(not sure if that's the correct nomenclature), and don't know what the "Monoblock Top" type wheels are that you mentioned.

    If the stock offsets f/r are 50/45 mm respectively, it appears that I'd have to add several of the Porsche 5mm spacers or maybe one of the 17 mm spacers to make up the difference w/ the et 33 wheels. As well as the correct length bolts for whatever configuration I end up with.

    Jeff

  11. Thanks, understood. As I do not know what the stock offsets are, (from what you mentioned in your initial reply I take it that the TT wheels are less offset than the GT2, but that the GT2 wheel/tire combo is a larger package than the TT) I figured that if needed I could utilize one of the Porsche OEM spacer kits that you have recommended for use in other posts to make up any difference.

    If you happen to have the stock offset numbers for my TT in your bag o' info and would be willing to share that, I'd certainly be an appreciative P-car owner!

    Jeff

  12. Loren ---

    Thanks for the fast response. To summarize what I think you've said;

    If I choose to go w/ the Gemballa 8.5 et 33 fronts and 11.5 et 33 rears, that should be okay based upon the GT2 setup which is even further outside the envelope required by these wheels (although I don't know what kind of offsets are stock for the TT, it is not more than the GT2).

    Looking at the tirerack.com website, it does appear that my present OEM Michelin tires (225/40 front and 295/30 rear) will fit the slightly larger Gemballa rims, so I can simply have them swapped and balanced until they wear out , at which point I can push up the size a bit.

    Again, thanks for the info!

    Jeff

  13. I do not have much knowledge of the ramifications brought about by changing from OEM wheels. I am considering replacing the turbo wheels on my '04 TT (when it finally shows up) w/ Gemballa Competition 18s. The stock wheels are 8 x 18 (front) and 11 x 18 (rear). I may go to 8.5 x 18 (front) and 11.5" x 18 (rear).

    What does the "et 33" or similar nomenclature typically addended to the Gemballa part number (eg. 11.5 et 33) mean? Is this the depth of the rim?

    At what point do wheels require (if ever) spacers to properly fit on the car?

    Will my stock tires, Michelins on the OEM wheels, fit the new wheels?

    Are there any other issues presented by changing the wheels to a slightly different size like this (fender rub, suspension adjustment, etc.)?

    TIA,

    Jeff

  14. Mr. Pants (I didn't think it appropriate to call you "Mr. Tool") ---

    Thanks for your reply w/ the link to the Becker board. I've posted a question over there as well. Becker does not appear to be carrying receivers or CD changers anymore, at least on their website.

    Well, I am not audio electronics savvy so what is a FM Modulator, and what does it do for me in this case? (to refresh I have a '04 TT w/ PCM II and full Bose system; standard equipment for this year's TTs).

    I have read some sketchy info on other boards regarding the addition of a parallel wiring harness to get around and/or work in tandem w/ the MOST bus. Any words of wisdom on this?

    Thanks,

    Jeff

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