SWFLHOMES

Thanks for the tips. It looks like I will start by changing the fluid and then eventually order the part from Sunset and go from there.

Thanks rizzo, Can you tell me if I need to do anything special to drain the diff. How do I pump it back in or should I have someone else do it? I appreciate the advise on the diff and your ideas. By the way, the $4700+ quote was for the diff and a wheel alignment (their reccomendation). Nothing else, no breakdown of parts etc.

Is it worth searching for a used unit and going through an indy shop to install it? There has to be a company that is capable of rebuilding it. Don't you think?

Ok, I had the local dealership look at it. It is the differential (bearing type of whine) Cost $4700 Has anyone priced an indy shop? Parts, labor, should I look for a used one? Mudman: Are you saying I am ok to drive on this for a while? Thanks, Craig

What is the difference between the transfer case or differential. I can't find a diagram for a front diff.

2004 CS 109,000 miles Driving home last night at 55 mph out of no where I started hearing a whine (spinning metal-like noise). It is more noticable when you hit the gas pedal (even a very light touch). Shift in to nutral (no noise). At a stop (no noise) At 20 mph + (more noise) Parked, rev engine (no noise) Everything else runs just fine. Any thoughts? Thanks, Craig

That's great news. How much cost and labor was involved?

I had the noise (not grinding). Cleaned it, greased it etc. It lasted 1 year. I have to do it again. If it starts fine and you have the time and skills, do it yourself.

Are you talking about the upper mount on the passanger side?

If I open the hood, put the car in drive, hold the brake, give it some gas you then see the drivers side of the engine lift 3 to 4 inches and roll towards the passenger side. I also feel a shift of weight like a movement if I take off too hard (so I am taking it easy). Is it a DIY job?

I have a really bad drivers side motor mount. Is this a job I should take on myself? Does anyone have pictures or a diagram as to where they are located? Should I replace both? Thanks!

Reaction1, I isolated my low speed shudder to the A/C as well. RFM, it is when you put it on enonomy mode that the shudder dissappears. I have had my A/C serviced but it is definately a load issue that is tied into the idle. Any thoughts?

I have had a looseness in the under carriage of my 2004 cs for a while. The dealer can't seem to pinpoint it. If I accellerate hard you feel the shaft move but I can't seem to find it. I had one drive shaft replaced and after asking the dealer what they thought they replaced the shaft again. They felt there was too much movement in the shaft but they could not find anything loose. It's very apparrent when you accelerate hard something is shifting and thumping underneath. If I ease into the throttle everything is fine. I checked the sway bar but saw no signs of any looseness or broken bushings. Could it be a motor mount or suspension mount and how would I check this?

PTEC, The only wiring I had to remove were the connectors to the power window motor, the power mirror wires, the main speaker wire and the cable connector at the door handle to get the cover panel off. That allowed me to free up the motor from the window regulator that coils up the cables in the up and down motion. I did not fully remove the black steel panel (there was no need to do that. What I did to remove the frame/window and regulator assembly was to remove the 4 bolts as you noted in the outer corners of the door jamb area. Once that was loose I lifted the window frame upward 6 inches and guided the right or lock side out. Then just re installed in the reverse. I did not take photos because I tried to make the repair on the cable only and probably would have been successful had I not also removed and installed the water pump that morning. I was shot by the days end and this one got the best of me. I think the cables are repairable but I don't want to take everything apart again unless I replace the whole unit. For an $85.00 part, it's not worth my time.

PTEC, You are correct. There are 4 parts to the door: 1. The inside cover panel 2. The black metal cover panel that holds the power window motor and other wires that has to have 6 rivets drillled out to remove it. 3. The inner door structure which consists of the window frame, cross bars and window regulator (rails & cables). 4. The actual door skin. Hinges, handle etc. I did not have to disconnect the door wiring harness to get the inner door structure that had the regulator attached nor did I have to do anything with the outer door handle, I just disconnected the cable at the inner door handle. I did try to put a new cable on the regulator but was un-successful. I would definately order the regualtor before you do this. It is not difficult but very time consuming. I will follow up once I do the complete job.

I misplaced my wheel key. I searched the forum and couldn't anything. Do you get a new one from the dealer by VIN?

This is probably a 3 on the DIY scale. I was able to do this in 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Unfortunately I wanted to get this job done while it was below 90 degrees (Florida) so I did not take any photos. There are a couple of things I did differently (right or wrong) that made the job easier. 1. Remove the two front engine covers above the fans with a coin. 2. Remove the the y pipe (there is a connector on the bottom of the y pipe) and extensions that connect to the MAF sensors (left and right. 3. Disconnect the wires that go to the throttle adjuster and then unbolt the throttle adjuster (4 bolts). 4. There is another 1/4 inch tube and electrical connector that is an emmissions piece that needs to be disconnected because it's in the way. It's near the bottom right of the throttle adjuster. 5. Loosen the 3 water pump pully screws (WITH THE PULLY STILL ON). TIP: If you don't remove the electric fan cover it will be difficult to get a wrench between the fan and the pully. I used my torx head bit and used an adjustable wrench sideways or perpendicular on the torx bit. They loosen real easy counter clockwise as usual. 6. Loosen the belt tensioner pully and remove the belt. I did not remove the belt completely but you will get coolant on the belt if you don't cover it when you pull the water pump. TIP: Ease the pully off, it will take some patience and some wiggling (I used a 1/2 by 1/2 piece of wood to not damage the pully). 7. Loosen the 8 bolts that hold on the water pump. TIP: There are similar bolts around the water pump bolts. Use the new water pump to help guide you on the bolts you can't see. 8. Lightly tap the pump ant it should come right off. I did not drain the coolant. I recently did the coolant pipe replacement and didn't feel the need to drain it. I lost about 1 pint to 1 quart of coolant when I removed the pump. If you do this don't remove the reservoir cap. That will allow more coolant to come out. DO remove it after you complete the job and get the temperature up so the thermostat open and the system can bleed itself. I am not a mechanic, but if I break it I own it!

Loren, Thanks as always. I'll post when completed. I will be doing the waterpump and documenting that as well this weekend! Craig

Does anyone (Loren) have a PM and part number? It would be nice to have the part prior to doing the job. Thanks!

I had my passenger window down today, went to put it up and it hesitated and went back down. I did it a time or two more then something (sounded like it was a plastic piece) snapped. I had to pull the window up while hitting the window switch up to get it to stay. The motor seems like it's working but something on the guide or track went. Before I spend 2+ hours pulling the panel and drilling the rivets to the cover panel, has anyone experienced this? I am afraid to take everything apart and then not have the parts with the window stuck in the down position? Help!

Has anyone done this? Any details would be greatly appreciated. My Water pump pulley has movement in it so I thought I would replace it before it failes.

I replaced the belt yesterday, not too bad of a job (1 hour). It turns out that my water pump pulley is the one that's making the noise. The shaft slightly wobbles 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. I could not find any instructions in any of the forums that address the removal and installation of a new water pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am in south Florida where it is 90+ degrees here already so I don't want to let this go too long. Craig

2004 CS 95k miles. I have to replace my sepentine belt. It seems my tensioner pully is making a rattling noise. Has anyone had this issue? Do I need to relace something or might replacing the belt quiet it down?

Drill out the rivets. You can re-rivet it or use sheet metal screws to tighten the panel. I still have to fix my door lock (it doesn't lock) and I've drilled out the rivets to see what the problem was. Since I have not done the repair my rivets are still out but the only time my panel makes noise is when the window is down. After I do my repair I will either re-rivet or use screws. I believe you can also access the lock mechanism from the outside handle/ key area. It is a really detailed process, I did it by just looking at it so plan on taking 2 to 4 hours (if you take your time).

I believe it is the purge control valve.