SWFLHOMES

Just some words of experience or wisdom for you. I have had A/C issues for 1 1/2 to 2 years now. Neither the Porsche dealer or a local indy A/C guy could figure it out. Dealer did a scan and swapped the A/C control unit, I did some servo motor work etc.

My intermittent issues:

1) freon blow off

2) warmer on passenger side

3) Never super cool on the driver side

4) Coolant temperature slightly warmer

I decided to replace the compressor. The indy A/C guy insisted I replace the A/C dryer as well. Upon removing the dryer he found that the dryer failed. Most of the particles in the dryer clogged at the bottom of the dryer and some leaked out into the condensor. They tried blowing out the condensor and put everything back together but I still had the same issues. They felt from that point that the condensor was clogged and not getting an even flow of freon. They replaced the condensor (front bumper and many other parts have to come off).

Results:

A/C is ICE COLD, no more freon blow off, cold on passenger side, coolant temperature not showing as hot.

******REPLACING YOUR DRYER WILL ELIMINATE GOING THROUGH ALL OF THIS HEADACHE***********

My 2004 Cayenne S emblem was looking worn out, so instead of replacing it with the original I decided to see how the new PORSCHE emblem would look. I am pleased with the results, a nice change for $37.00.

Just a quick update. I replaced the switch and it solved my a/c and fan issues. It seems that my condensor fan was coming on intermittently and causing the a/c to build pressure and blow off freon. The job is not difficult if you have done the coolant pipe replacement. You have to remove most of the same parts. One HUGE help was that I had a 22 mm O2 sensor remover (it attaches to the end of the ratchet). It fit right over the sensor after the connector was removed. Prepare for some coolant to come out so be ready to plug it with a finger or have the new sensor ready.

Lauren,

I have to replace my bank one sensor. Can you also send me a PM?

Thanks!

I had an indy shop replace the a/c fill valve with a new brass one. I had 1 more freon blow off right after that but nothing since. I don't know if the fill valve replacement worked or if the fan just fixed itself. I no longer have an A/C or fan/temperature problem?

Thanks for the PDF! I will replace it this weekend and see what happens. I guess there is only 1?

I was hoping someone could send me the a diagram location of the coolant temp sensors, and or sensors for the fans.

It's easy to adjust if you're handy . When you open the glass you will notice the square shaped latch on the left and a pin on the right. The pin on the right controls the rear wiper. The left square shaped latch is what you want to adjust.

1. Pull off the plastic cover that surrounds the area. You will notice a nut that holds the square shaped latch tight.

2. Loosen that and try rotating the square latch 1/2 turn to the left or 180 degrees and re-tighten the nut.

3. Re-close the glass and see if it grabs and turns off the light. I just had this problem and my initial thought was to tighten the latch bolt (to the right) to draw the glass closer but the light actually needs the bolt longer (to the left) which helps it push that catch mechanism completely and turn the light off.

4. You may need to adjust it a few times or rotate it a complete 360 degrees until you get it right.

The dealer could not find any faults and said they were able to operate the fans. I know it's running hotter than normal and I can see the temp rise when I know the fans SHOULD be kicking on that's why I think I should trace down what is or isn't triggering the fans but more important the high speed fan.

I have seen different parts of this topic but none that addressed an intermittent problem. I have been having A/C and coolant temperature problems for a while now. Both the dealer and very reputable Indy A/C shop cannot seem to find out what is going on. My fans work but after much research I am convinced that they are not going on when needed. My temp is going over the typical 180 mark by about 30 to 40 degrees when at idle. If I do not turn the econ button on when at idle and the temp rises (occasionally) I will get freon blow off at the compressor. Would I be wrong to start checking the coolant temperature sensors or any other fan sensors. I found a thread on the boxter that jumps the relay but it seems the cayenne does not have the same relay set up.

Coolant is good and full

I installed a new coolant reservoir tank (per the dealers recommendation)

Coolant pipes done 2 -3 years ago

New water pump

Thanks,

Craig

I drained front diff this weekend. Very little fluid drained out! No wonder why it was making noise. The lack of fluid I am sure didn't help my diff problem. I also had to grind 1/4 inch off of my allen wrench to clear the piece that was in the way. I would reccomend doing this MUCH sooner (50 or 60K). I have 120k miles 2004 CS

Question: I have the noisey differential problem and wanted to change the fluid to see if it helps. I see you removed the top drain screw. Did you have to remove the bottom to drain as well? Please tell me the difference between the bottom and top tubes. I would guess the top tube you are filling the diff back up but what are you doing with the bottom tube? And as vicary asked: fluid, amount and cost?

Thanks

Update. I replaced the coolant res tank. No change in the AC (as expected). I replaced the driver and passanger temperature servos (at least the system isn't confused). FYI, the old servos are made in spain. The new ones are swiss. I have an AC guy looking to see if I have an intermitent fan problem. Can anyone tell me the freon capacity of the system for an 04 CS with NO rear air? It seems the sticker I should have under the hood is not there and the dealer could not confirm the level but thought it was 2.2lbs.

Thanks!

It was evacuated by a proffessional A/C tech and refilled to the proper spec (pounds of freon). It runs fine and cold but with no warning it will blow off. The ONLY thing I find not right is that the system gets warmer while driving 40+ MPH and colder when stopped.

Update:

I replaced a cracked reservoir tank. The coolant temperature is back to normal (a tick over 180). I am in the middle of replacing the temperature mixing servos (I will update that post for anyone attempting a diy). I had the freon topped off but had another blow out tonight. My question is, is there anything in the unit that the servos control that can cause the freon to build pressure? Is there something else that might cause pressure to build?

Thanks

I have decided to do this job myself. Has anyone done it. I am going to start with the left and right temperature mixing flaps. I have the diagram of the locations but don't have much else. It looks like I have to get the left one from the drivers side and the right from the passangers side. Is that correct?

Thanks!

I have been having some unusual A/C issues lately and decided to go to the dealership to see what was going on.

Symptoms:

1) A/C gets cold (drivers side only) when sitting at a stop light but gets warmer while driving.

2) At stop or idle the coolant temp goes up to the next bar above 180

3) As coolant temp rises A/C freon blows off pressure (steam like) out near drivers side wheel well but only when the freon is full.

4) I have the typical servo motor issues and they workk whenever they're in the mood.

I brought it to the dealer. They checked all pressures of the system and balanced the freon. It did not blow off there. They determined that everything was functioning (through their diagnostics) and that the control unit was bad. We ordered a new control unit and they installed it but it did not resolve the mixing flap servo issues or anything thing else. They put the old control unit back in and said that 5 servos are bad by diagnosing them. Why didn't they determine that the first time? I told them that I don't believe the servos can cause a blow off issue. I asked them to check the fans and sensors. They then came back and determined the coolant reservoir tank had a crack which was not allowing the engine to cool correctly causing the temperature to spike and causing the freon to get hotter and blow off? We are not talking red line here, we are talking the temp only going up one bar over 180.

Any thoughts???

P.S. How difficult is it to replace the res tank?

Thanks!

Ok, it looks like I will need a trip to the dealer to diagnose my air conditioning issues. Is $150 US to test the system, charge the freon, check for leaks and scan the system fair? Also, it seems like it may be the control unit but I want to be sure. I am having the following issues:

1) When stopped at a traffic light the system will sometimes blow off freon. Seems to rise in temperature and build pressure (fan, contoller related or both?)

2) Right and left outside vents stop blowing any air when inside temperature is very hot.

3) Right side never gets as cold as the left.

4) Upper and lower vents will not blow air when switched on.

Can the controller cause all of these issues?

Thanks,

Craig

My local Porsche dealer charges $49.00 for an A/C system. I think I will have them figure it out. It's worth the $49.00!

Mudman,

Can you elaborate on the A/C control head? From what I am noticing my problem seems to be a control issue. I get cold air intermittantly on the drivers side only. It seems like something isn't switching and the fans are possibly not kicking on all of the time.

Thanks,

Craig

Thought I had an A/C problem but I am told the cooling fans may be running intermitently. Can anyone tell me if there are any fuses or a thermal switch to look for?

Thanks.

My coolant temp is recently going over the typical 180 mark and hitting 200. I am in South florida and it's getting hot here. Also, the air conditioning is acting up. I had it checked at a A/C shop and the freon is ok. The left side blows cold then warm in intervals. The right side is blowing warm only. Is there anything that is interconnected between the two? The engine cooling fans seem to be working ok but it feels like the A/C servos are switched to outside air. With all of the servos and I better off taking it to the dealership? Can they tell if a servo is not functioning?

Thanks!

I did it. I went from 275/40/20 to 275/45/20. The ride has a little more cusion with the higher sidewalls but the handleing has suffered slightly. If there was not another option I would probably not do it again. I also went with the nexen rodian for cost but the continentals were MUCH stickier on the road but wore out faster. Also, when I pass the police radar that shows the speed you are going my speedometer and the radar are both the same.

I took my door handle cover and had it color matched with bejamin moore water based paint. I will get the specifics for you. I then bought an inexpensive air brush, covered the area and taped off what I did not want painted. It worked great. A painter friend recommended the type of paint. I painted the door handles, the center consol grab handles and some wear spots on the seats. Two very light coats was all it took.

Another Cayenne defect. I have the same issue on front and rear drivers side. I have never owned a vehicle where the locks failed! Try taking the round rubber grommet out that has a circle with a slot diagram on the outside of the cover (located on the side of the door where the latch is). Under that cover is a slot that you can put your key in and turn it to override the lock system. It should also be in the owners manual. Good luck!