CabrioArtie

Loren,

New radio for my car, but need the code.

Model - CDR-220, BE4462

Serial - 15075092

Thank you,

Artie

Hi Loren,

I need the code for:

CDR220 - BE4462

Serial - Y5044878

Thank you in advance.

Loren,

Radio: CDR-220

Model # BE 4462

Serial # W5006091

Thank you Loren

Is this from a 997?  This part is a screw hole plug.  

This is from a 996 (02 C4 Cabrio), but the question is remains, where does this part go? Where is the hole for this part?

Went out to the car today and found the following part right below the brake pedal. It is covered in leather which matches my interior leather. It appears it should fill a hole somewhere around the drivers side area, but I don't see a where it goes.

Does anyone know this part and where it goes?

TIA

Can't say this is your problem, but I had the same exact issue. I could even open/close the cabrio top and the windows would open and close, but the window switches would not function.

Went for a State Inspection, went home and everything was working properly. Put the car in the garage and went into the house for about an hour. Came out to the car to run an errand and the window switches would not function at all.

No fuse issues. Nothing I did, would fix it.

Took the car to my Indie and after some diagnosing, he found that the Immobilizer module had shorted out. Replaced the module and everything was good once all the keys were reprogrammed. Hope this isn't your issue as this isn't a cheap fix. 

No, I rather doubt it. The car's use different systems, and the 996 has a lot of new technology and systems the 964/993 simply did not have, so the Hammer would not even see them. The 996 needs a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system.

I understand it wouldn't see most of the systems, I just want to reset the airbag light and if it can't I would buy a cheap OBD2 code reader until I figure out what I need for the long term.

Porsche has always been pretty protective of certain systems, including the air bags. Most inexpensive systems cannot even see the 996/997 airbags much less reset them. You are going to need a Porsche specific tool for that.

Okay, thanks for the info. Then I'll have to see my Indie to get it reset. And, look to sell my Hammer as it will be absolutely no use to me. Then I'll get a Durametric

No, I rather doubt it. The car's use different systems, and the 996 has a lot of new technology and systems the 964/993 simply did not have, so the Hammer would not even see them. The 996 needs a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system.

I understand it wouldn't see most of the systems, I just want to reset the airbag light and if it can't I would buy a cheap OBD2 code reader until I figure out what I need for the long term.

I strongly doubt it.  The last update for the hammer included the OBD module for the 993 but the 996 has a different module and coding.  What do you use on your 997?  I just put together a PIWIS II and it works on all models.

I don't have anything for my 997 at this point as I just acquired it. Moving from the older model years and I don't have all the tools I need yet.

Hi,

Just recently sold my 964 and was wondering if I could use the Porsche diagnostic tool called a Hammer on my 996. I have the connector which fits the OBD2 outlet. I know the tool was originally built for a 964 and 993, but I need to reset my airbag light and wondering if this tool would work on my 996?

Thanks

Had the same exact problem. Heavy rain overnight, came out in the morning to find the windows down, ftrunk and engine lid open and a swimming pool under the seats. Utlimately I needed to have the alarm computer replaced. It would seem if it shorts out it opens everything up.

After checking out the car after this incident, it was found that a drain was chewed up by a rodent and the water was draining into the car.

Good luck with drying things. My car was so bad soaked I even needed to replace the leather on the front seats.

The nuts just carve a thread into the soft brass of the crest when they are installed. I usually end up just pulling them off with needle nose pliers.

The nuts are inexpensive but the crests by gone up by a factor of 10x in the last few years.

Yes, that's what I assumed (a groove being carved). I have no issues with destroying the nuts to get them off, but I can't get a good grip on the nuts with the needle nose. At least the needle nose pliers I have. The holes just aren't big enough to get the pliers in there for a good grip.

This is why I've asked about if there were any tool recommendations.

Thanks, for all suggestions and help.

here is a video:

 

Thanks, but the problem I'm having is when I atttempt to unscrew the nuts they just turn and turn. And, never unscrew. I understand the concept, but they aren't doing the unscrew part on my car.

So looking at mine (although mine is a turbo), there are two threaded posts.  So I would think you to screw while applying downward (or upward) pressure as apparently the rather flimsy nuts are stripped.

Mine is not threaded and definitely somehow grooved so it won't unscrew. I put a long flat head nail inside of the socket and applied some upward pressure while turning the socket by hand, but it still isn't unscrewing. I may try some additional pressure, but there must be a tool or some kind of locking pliers which will fit through the holes and grab onto the nuts so they can be unscrewed.

Artie,  

 

I wonder if you took a small drift and tapped the end of the stud to maybe push the crest further up on the mounting studs where the nut would be happier.  If the nuts are just spinning then by tapping the studs upwards maybe the nuts would come off.  Have you looked up there to be sure that they're attached with a 10mm nut?  You never know, someone could have used a speed nut?

May be worth a shot, I'm just concerned about anything I could do which could cause some damage.

If memory serves, there are no threads on the studs. Have you tried grabbing the nut with a needle nose plier, pull and turn at the same time?

I already tried this. The problem is, I don't have any needle nose which is narrow enough to fit into the hole and grab the nut at the same time.

Hi,

I've removed hood crests in the past on my past Porsches by just using a socket (8mm) over the speed nuts and unscrewing them with no upward pressure.

Well, today I decided to remove the old clear film the PO put on the car. It’s old and in pretty poor condition. It would seem they took the crest off while installing the film so it could be under the crest. My problem is I can't seem to get the nuts to unscrew from the crest. They just turn and turn, but never get looser

Anybody have any suggestions on how to remove the nuts or any tools I could acquire to do it?

Thanks

The key head of my key fob is really beaten up and I was thinking about replacing it. I know I can move the guts to a new 996 key head or what they call a 911 design key. But, I was wondering if the guts could be moved to any other key head, for example a 997.

And, the key I fob I have today is a 2 button fob.

Thanks

Simple Green for aircraft is safer on wheels but you should really check out Sonax. It smells horrible but is a great wheel cleaner.

+1

I would like to thank everyone who replied above, with all of your suggestions I was able to get the bushing pushed and alternator removed.

After soaking it with PB Blaster for several hours and hitting it for a little while and a slight process change it creaked and moved. The process change was, using the bolt screwed in as far as it will go without the pulley wheel mounted, I was able to hit it so that it moved. This gives you the most amount of room in order to work and use the hammer.

Again, thanks to everyone. I now have a properly working alternator.

Thanks to everyone who provided me with the above help, I did whack it pretty hard (at least I thought I did) so I will soak it a little more and whack it a little harder. Hopefully it moves. Otherwise, I will have to admit defeat and bring it in and I hate not succeeding at something I planned on doing.

I'm planning on working on it on Sunday, so I'll let everyone know that evening.

I was wondering, instead of hitting the bolt, if this is a good idea? Remove the bolt completely and use a punch directly on the bushing directly?? Just a thought.

Definitely need to free up that bushing and then you can pry it out with something like a piece of wood (the mounts are aluminum so no crowbars, etc).

You might have success threading a scrap bolt in so that the head of the bolt is small a bit away from the alternator housing and then giving it a couple of taps with a dead blow hammer which forces the bushing back a small amount.

I had the same issue you are having when I did mine and the above information helped a lot. It took persistence. Conceptually it was so simple but that little bushing getting stuck (from me not properly reading the directions the first time and taking that bolt all the way out) ending up being about 90% of the work in my case. Hopefully if you can loosen up that bushing you should be able to get the alternator out with a little coaxing. You will need to give that bolt a pretty good whack -- if you don't have a dead blow hammer, you can buffer your blow with something like a piece of wood. The key here is you want to apply some good force....but not go wild on it.

Not saying I can remember from Saturday, but it there isn't a lot of space to give it a really "good whack", at least from what I remember. Is there a specific angle or something? Or did you remove more than just the air box?

Try some PB blaster? How did you hammer the bolt? I use a 7/8" x 1' solid aluminum round rod. A few good whack using a 2.5lb dead blow hammer. I sprayed the bushing with PB blaster the day before.

Even though I thought I hit it pretty hard, It doesn't sound like I hit as hard as you. And, I didn't soak it for more than 45 minutes. Have to try harder this coming weekend.

Thanks

Went to uninstall the alternator yesterday, I've read the service manual and numerous posting about unscrewing the right side bolt about 3 turns and tapping it to free the bushing and alternator. It would seem on my car a few taps (and even more pounding) does not move the bushing and/or free the alternator not matter how I tried.

I put it all back together, but plan on trying again next weekend. Any suggestions to free the alternator would be appreciated. Are there any unwritten things I can try to free it? I also tried lubricating the bushing, but to no avail.

PM sent with the information.