LVDell

AG...contact me if you need my tool since you are local. Be happy to assist.

Don't think it will work with anything but black. I asked the company but they didn't suggest anything other than black.

From the research I did it will ONLY look descent on a black top.

I bought the factory one from Sunset (board sponsor) for $84! It is cheaper than the PP one and it has a pre cut out hole for the oilo drain plug.

I don't see how you would be stepping on toes unless you took Loren's DIY stuff and posted it on your site.

We are part of this community b/c we like to share as many possible outlets as we can to have the best running and maintained car on the road. If you offer ANOTHER outlet then that just makes this community that much stronger! :cheers:

Great post and glad Sunset was able to help out! I have nothing but great things to say about them.

Try Sunset (they are a board sponsor). I have found they are usually the best price going!

From what I understand you CANNOT use an "extra" key somebody is selling on eBay and then have it reprogrammed for your car.

Have you tried calling the dealer? Or are you just thinking it is going to be WAY overpriced? Besides the dealer MUST program it for you.

Did you buy the car private party or dealer? If it was private party have you asked them what happened to the other keys (this would scare me knwoing that the 2nd master and the valet key are out there)? If it is a dealer why wasn't this included with your purchase?

The GT3 wheels in 8.5" and 11" sizes weigh 24.9 lb and 27.3 lb respectively

Wow, that is a beautifdul car!!! One thing about a Porsche, any model year 911 is just timeless. I could easily drive that over my 996!

Wow, if that top is legit then I would be all over it. I have a 2000 996 CAB and the ONLY thing I wish I could change about the car is the plastic window. There really isn't a fix for it since the way the top mechanism pulls the top back into the storage area a glass window would not fit. Same for the 986 but if these guys have figured out how to keep the glass from being forced into the back without breaking then that is very cool. I would do some serious checking around though (is it a direct replacement, would the dealer install it, etc.)

Oh yeah, glad to hear you are staying in the P-Car community!!!!

welcome aboard! pics?

Also there is a place that sells a top w glass rear window that can fit into older Boxters w/ plastic window.

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If you don't have the MY that is glass specific I would NOT retrofit a glass top. The way the mechanism retracts back into the trunk is just asking for trouble.

As I said (and OE)........POSER!

Are you talking about the CAB top? If so this is a several man project and something you want to leave to the professionals for warranty purposes.

But without any info from you nobody can really offer up any help.

Model/Year/Trim, etc

The parts and installation for a BRAND NEW system would be similar to the parts you will have to buy and the installation for this one. I would stay away from this.

Sucks. I feel for him. Loose the stickers and non-sponsor "sponsor" identification and it would be a true enthusiast track beast.

Great informative post Leno but please use a few more paragraphs! :eek:

BTW... this info is in your Owners Manual (page194)

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:oops:

This has been covered here before (sorry I don't remember when). Do a search on this topic since I remember the thread discussed the remedy for the situation.

No doubt on the poser. I mean come on, he had GTC3 not GT3C on the front bumper in one shot and GT3R on another? I am confused. Same car? Not to mention the only aero part he has is the front dam. I can't belive TRG would be happy with him creating a 1/2 a** car to be believed as a TRG club racing cup car.

Is that really a TRG car? I would think they would do a better job on it than that. Don't get me wrong, it looks great, but a GT3 cup car it ain't.

Sounds mechanical now. I had the same thing.....light on, clamshell moves, then clickity clack sounds and then nothing but a flashing light. What was it? It was the flaps on the side that fold down when the top is up and come back up flush with the rest of the back dash area when the top is down. They had to replce them since they were getting stuck. Mine was done under warranty so I have no idea what is cost.

AS long as it is "touched-up" nicely (i.e., paint, clear, buff, polish). What you don't want is obvious touch ups because they will be inaccessible once the clear bra is on. Just make sure that the chip is touched up even with the rest of the paint job. Avoid craters or bumps.

Quality of the installer is the most important. If you get shotty work it will look so cheap (orange peel, wrinkles, bad cuts, eneven, discoloration, etc.). I paid about $1K for mine and it was worth every penny. You can't even tell that it is on.