LVDell

Stefan, thanks! Looks like it is just plug and play with the 02+ parts I listed above. Just a simple R&R.

Below is what they determined from your link........

Parts Needed:

You need both the lighted ring and the actual cigarette lighter insert. For some reason the new socket doesn't fit into the old lighted ring even though it looks like it should.

996-652-101-10-A05 Socket $7.88

996-652-102-10 Lighted retaining ring $4.20

To get the old one out:

-Pry off the switch panel

-Unplug the cigarette lighter plug from the back

-Hold the trim ring part while twisting the cigarette lighter cylinder to unhook the tabs

-Push the cigarette lighter cylinder out the front of the trim ring (it's pretty tight so you have to push hard)

-You can now pull the trim ring out (have to tilt it a little because the light is attached to it

Installation is very straightforward. Put the trim ring in, then slide in the cigarette lighter cylinder. Put the electrical plug into the back and snap the whole plate back in.

So looking the the PET it looks like there is listed 2 different lighters:

-01 996 652 101 00

02- 996 652 101 10

as well as the socket (called a "headlight unit"...odd) they go into has 2 different ones as well:

-01 996 652 102 01

02- 996 652 102 10

Then there is an item listed below it in parens:

996 652 104 00 "tensioning sleeve"

Could this be what I am looking for???

Thanks Loren.

Looks like I have some $$$ paperweights now :)

Thanks Loren! So, would anybody benefit from the GT3 control arms? What about the uppers as well?

Title says it all. Want to know if the REAR control arms (lower and "dog bone" uppers) are the same between a base Carrera and the GT3?

The part numbers in the PET do NOT match what is stamped on the parts and it seems the p/n's between 996 and GT3 PET's are same/similar.

Reason I ask is that I have removed the control arms from my GT3 (2004) and need to know if they are compatible with the base Carrera if they are the same or not. Would hate to give these to somebody if their car already has them.

TIA!

Have since sold the Pepper but IIRC it was extremely easy to do the cabin filter.

996 Engine Failure

I would like to try and start a log of all the failed 996 engines to see how many there really are.

By the power of the internet, we could see if this is a significant problem or not once and for all.

I don't want to go off half cocked so would welcome any views as to how best to go about this.

two words....sampling bias.

speaking as a behavioral scientist that deals with this on a DAILY basis, there is absolutely NO WAY for you to get what you are looking for unless PCNA opens up their database to you. That isn't going to happen.

got it! thanks again Loren :cheers:

ok, so maybe it's not as easy as I thought. I was able to remove it from the harness plug. Now I just have to figure out how to remove the old one form the a/c vent?????

That's too funny! I had no idea. I just got back from the dealer and in fact that was the correct p/n. Now I'm heading into the garage to try and install this sucker.

I think I found it. Just verifying that 99661353500 is the correct p/n.

Still doesn't get to the bottom of why it has what appears to be a MB logo and P/N on it.

FYI....car is a MY00 C2CAB

I have removed the vent assembly so I could get to the part number for the light switch. I suspect this is the part that is needed since my low beams do NOT illuminate when turned on yet high beams work as do the fogs. Anyway, I looked at the part (#31) and it shows a p/n of 014 545 64 28 which does not pull up. Further it looks as though there is a MB star next to the p/n???????

Any help?

TIA! :cheers:

I've got a buddy that broke his timing chain on his low mileage MY99. No mechanical overruns or other abuse.

What do we know about the likely causes of this?

Is the timing chain and supporting hardware a known weakness of MY99?

TIA!

well then, I am definitely stumped. Hopefully somebody else has a suggestion.

awesome! saves a trip to the dealer.

trip to the dealer and proof of ownership.

not sure that would be the oil separator. I have seen the results of one letting go and that is not what it looks like. When was you last oil change? What does your oil level read first thing in the morning with all the oil drained into the sump?

Cut it any way you want, but OEM is NOT aftermarket regardless if it is the SAME manufacturer. You have to be careful with your terminology especially if you ever sell anything part-wise and tell somebody it is OEM and then send them an aftermarket part only to have to hear an earful from a pissed off customer.

SACHS is aftermarket.

OEM means Genuine Porsche Parts with a PCNA part number

agree that the mechanic is trying to make some extra cash.

yes you can get a clutch kit for $300 if you go aftermarket. I should have clarified I was talking about OEM.

Ok here's an update:

I thought my car was no longer under warranty, but the mechanic called me today and said it was! He said he wants to take it to a dealership and they will replace the RMS. He also told me before that he's sure the pressure plate needs to be replaced and that the parts for a "clutch kit" will cost $650 and is not covered under the warranty. Does this make any sense?

To answer some previous questions:

The car has 27k miles on it. The repair shop came highly recommended and it specializes in German makes.

dude, go get your car and drive away FAST!

do you understand that the warranty would have taken care of the motor mount AND the clutch/RMS? i'm not sure if it would have covered the rotors as they are a wear-and-tear item, but i will bet that at 27K miles, they did not need to be replaced to begin with.

a new clutch kit (with ALL clutch parts) is about $300! and of course it is covered under warranty. clutches should not be failing at 27K miles. my original clutch is at 116K miles now.

if you have paid him $1700, chalk it up to a learning experience, because you got taken - and BAD!

You can go through a clutch in a weekend or you can have it for 200K miles. It is all about YMMV so there is NO WAY to make a blanket statement about clutch life (or as you stated failure). As for the clutch costing only $300, you must have some serious connections to grab one at that price. Either that or it is not a complete clutch kit.

If cupping is only on the inside, it might suggest excessive negative camber, but then again, I would expect a sports car to run some negative camber anyway. If this is the issue, it will be obvious when the alignment is done.

not excessive camber, but rather just "any" negative camber. Remember, neutral camber is what you are ALWAYS shooting for (0). Running negative camber in these cars aids in lateral turns but wears down the inside track on the tire. Perfect example is I corded a set of PS2's on my GT3 with less than 5K miles b/c the camber setup was more of track setting. It's all a compromise. The other issue at play here is the toe settings on the car. If he has any toe dialed in outside of nuetral (or close to it) he could be srubbing the tire in a non linear fashion.

1. Put a new battery in YOURSELF

2. Do the brakes YOURSELF

3. Get a second opinion on the motor mounts and if needed have them replaced. They are NOT expensive at all to replace.

2 things:

1. Not sure why somebody would tell you it is your suspension. That would need to be clarified. What comes to mind for me is that either you run with too much pressure in your tires (more unlikely) or you have a "typical" Porsche setup. Just depends on where the wear is. On the inner 1/3 of the contact patch? Just a camber issue.

2. A good place in Vegas (used to live there and know ALOT of the guys in the P-Car circles). Call up Premier Sportscar Service. They "used" to run P-Cars in the racing series but have since moved over to F-cars. However, when I left last year they were still a certified facility to perform warranty work. Also, it helps that they KNOW these cars as they are a race shop. If they cannot help you then ask them for suggestions where to take it. The BEST indy in Vegas for P-Cars is Carl's Place. The owner is our old Vegas chapter PCA president and the greatest guy you could meet. He will steer you in the right direction if he can't do the work. Very honest, very reliable, and very reasonable with rates.

Hope that helps some.