LVDell

very welcome. my input comes form many years of tracking (and street driving) a 996CAB and a GT3. I think you will be very happy with your choice of the OEM setup.

OEM rotors. OEM pads if street driving, Pagid pads if driving on the track. If doing both, swap pads between each event.

Hi, I'm new to the forum ... Hello everyone!!

Picked up my 99 C2 about 3 weeks ago and it spent more time back at the dealer where I purchased the car from. The PPI detected leaking spark plug tubes which were repaired. As I was driving the car home, the temperature gauge’s light started blinking ... apparently the car was overheating. Also, an oil leak was discovered in my garage which the dealer looked after. Back to the dealer it went ... apparently, the coolant was low 2 liters. He told me that one of the tube/hose situated at the firewall was the culprit.... an $18 part plus over $200 labour.

Today, I discover another leak ... coolant! I left the dealer another message and will have to schedule another trip there. Good thing I put a white cardboard under the engine to monitor leaks. I'll admit that the dealer has been wonderful in responding to the problems. However, in the 3 weeks that I have since taken possession of the car, we have driven the car ... at most 3 days. Only wish I could enjoy it more especially when the warm weather is here.

Not sure why you bought the car if it showed such such deficiencies. If there was nothing other than the plug leaks reported then your PPI guy screwed you. You do NOT have the problems you did in a week after a PPI that was satisfactory.

Remember though, that you have a 99. Coolant leak? Water pump or cracked coiolant reservoir I assume which is NOT b/c of an unreliable motor. Leaking spark plug coil packs is another age issue. We've all had them replaced. Sure hope you don't have to replace your air filter as well 'cause that might just send you over the edge.

Key to understand is this car was sold en masse unlike other P-Car models. You see more problems voiced b/c there ARE more cars out there. It is MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE to take care of a 993 than a 996. You want reliable bulletproof? Get a GT1 derived motor ala GT3/TT. There is a reason there is a price disparity between them and the "regular" Carrera's.

Hopefully, you are now on our way (when you get your car back) to some rewarding ownership :thumbup:

The "embossed" armrest is an exclusive item that is ordered with the car from the factory. You would need to ask somebody that already has that option to order one for you since you need the VIN to procure it. You can't just show up at a parts counter and place an order for one.

FYI.....there are diffferent variants (crest, model variants)

You should be just fine. Like I said, I run the 315 rears on my GT3 for the track on a 11" rim with no rubbing issues at all.

No need to worry about the rubbing because the 315 tire will not fit a 10" rim. You really need a 11" rim for that size to fit optimally. I run 245 in front and 315 in the rear but that is with 8.5" and 11" wheels n my GT3.

My suggestion? Stick with the 295 in the rear.

One of the guys over on Rennlist is running the following setup in the BBS wheels

18" x 9" ET51

18" x 12" ET63

Toyo RA-1 245/40/18 305/35/18

Here is a link to the thread: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=344008

All depends on the size of your wheels. Are they stock wheels? What are the width of the wheels?

However, I have to ask, why 315 in the rear and not the facotry 295??? The C4S already understeers like a pig with all that 4WD weight up front....the last thing you want to do is keep the front at the factory size of 225 or 235 but drastically rasie the rear. Talking about some serious understeer.

That was my initial guess. Thanks for confrimation. Once again, many thanks!

Cheers,

Dell

Awesome Loren! Thanks for posting that up. Now I have a reason to go buy that digital micrometer that I have had my eye on :)

BTW, this may be a stupid question but that is "lateral runnout"?

Cheers,

Dell

Thanks Loren! I'm in no rush as I won't be doing the brakes for a month or two anyway. Please post back if you find anything.

Cheers,

Dell

Loren, do those specs apply to the V6 as well or just the S?

If you have just contributed to the site Loren should have you updated shortly. He's pretty quick. Welcome aboard!

You'll find a wealth of info here as well, the TSB's access (viewing, not printing) is worth every penny of contribution.

Oh dear God.......is this the guy that died in the Canyon run in the bay area this past weekend??? What a tragic end to this saga. May he RIP. Breaks my heart to hear when somebody was unable to harness the power that some of the cars have especially on "back roads". This is the very reason I do my spirited driving on the track.

I heard that a F-car was also involved in the accident and might have died as well??? Anybody know for sure what the facts are???

Here is one thread I was directed to......

http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?option=...amp;topic=17366

I'd drop by but that is one heck of a drive for me :)

The shims were a last resort since I am so tired of the **** squealing on the track where I thought it would be less.

Champion quoted you 10 becasue they spend 8 of those 10 hours billing you while they are oogling all over the CGT's in the bay. ANd there are usually several. I was there in November and the garage area has 3, yes 3 CGT's in the bays along with a host of other fine machines. Needless to say I didn't feel so cool in my GT3.

As for your situation I can't believe they are wanting to charge you MORE than the book rate they actually have and wouldn't dare show you. Criminal if you ask me.

Expect to pay between 4-8 hours depending on where you go (indy's and dealer). The biggest expense of the RMS is that labor rate since you have to essentially do the same procedure as replacing the clutch which is why many people get their clutch done at teh RMS time if they need it (or need it soon) since there should be NO additional labor. FYI....when you have your clutch replaced, part of the process SHOULD include both a new RMS and IMS seal.

I have done the brakes several times in my GT3 but never used the shims since I swap between street pads and track pads so much. I am just going to stick with my Pagid RS19's for 24/7 duty and install the shims to remove some of the dreadful squealling.

I have been getting different answers on what is the shim type (bars/spiders/etc) and number of them used for the GT3. So, what do I need as far as parts for the brakes to install the correct number of shims?

FYI.....2004 GT3 with iron rotors.

TIA! :thumbup:

Hopefully somebody can help out with a X74 suspension. I have both a GT3 and a 996 with the sport suspension. I can tell you there is absolutely no truth to that statement that the X74 is similar to the GT3. Ride in the GT3 and then install the X74 and you will be sorely disappointed.

to supply demand +1. Just look at the last run of GT3's (996) where there were just magically a small run of 05's available after all the 04's were gobbled up.

Nobody? Oh well. I posted this over on Rennlist as well so hopefully somebody chimes in. I will post back if I hear something elsewhere.

Title says it all. The reason I ask is that both are the 2 approved tranny oils as listed by PCNA. However, the reason I ask is that the current PET catalog lists the Mobil Mobilube PTX as the ONLY gear oil for the 04-05 GT3 and the Shell Transaxle for all the rest of the 9X6 line.

TIA! :cheers:

ps. I will post this on Rennlst as well in case some of the 'listers dont' frequent Renntech.

I bought mine through the board sponsor (Sunset Porsche) and they are cheaper than Suncoast. I paid roughly $1K shipped.

very nice matta!

looks like your CAPS key is stuck :)