peckel

After reading several posts here and on Rennlist decided to replace the gound cable for the starter and the cable from the alternator to starter. Cheaper that a starter. Just ordered them from Sunset Porsche. Sunset has to order the items (4 days).

Will update.

I seem to be struggling with similar issue... what was the resolution for your issue here? Thanks in advance!

Greg,

You obviously have been through my frustration as it sounds like many others have as well. Anyhow, I wanted to make sure I covered my bases before starting and I appreciate your help. Cheers!

Peter

Just received these. The part number is 996 504 911 00. Turned out cheaper than I had expected at €110 for 4 new plates including delivery.

Keggers, did you have to remove interior portion of headliner to fix the base plates and studs? Is the back washer needed to fix broken studs and base plates? Thanks in advance!

Peter

There is a TSB for that (2/97 6692 Installing Roof Transport System (RTS) (Coupe) -- dated Dec 22, 2000).

It is available here for viewing by our Contributing Members.

Contribute I will! Thank you Loren.

Peter

I am looking for installation instructions for the roof transport system for 996/997 coupe. Does anyone have a good link or write-up that I can reference while I do this for the first time? I bought used rails and new bike mount from Suncoast but need instructions for rail install. Thank you in advance!

Peter

1999 Porsche 911 Carrera 2, coupe, 6 spd

Ignition signal converter? what is that? Is that the ignition switch?

That is what I said too... looks like ignition module and I am guessing that is black box on top of steering lock housing or maybe the alarm immobilizer. Was told VIN specific...

I have been told the car needs a new ignition signal converter... and total price at $450. This includes diagnostic, etc. and 7-10 days out...

I have a 03 targa with X74 suspension. I wanted to know if it is normal to go through rear tires faster since the car is lowered? I have only 11,000 miles on the x74 suspension and the rear tires that are Continental sport contact 2's and both rear tires are down to the tread bars. Also the inner treads are worn down to wear the tread bars are all gone. Is this normal? I drive 50/50 city/highway and always make sure tire pressure are right, could this be a balancing problem? Thanks all!

Moosey,

I think you have gotten pretty good wear out of those tires. My experience has been 3 pairs in the rear per 1 pair in the front. I plan on around 10-11k per rear pair. I drive moderately hard to hard, street only.

Just put a friend's Durametric on it. Initial readout was of course P1602 from having the battery disconnected. However, from that was all we got. We tried to clear the codes and the module failed to initialize. We also attempted to connect to ECU for identification but to no avail. Has anyone had this occur on their own cars? What did you have to do?

Any advice from here is appreciated but looks like only option is for the tow truck to the stealership.

You can get the workshop manual for '99 996 including the wiring diagram at http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm . It may help you diagnose the electrical problem. Good luck.

Thanks for the link.

Well, at this point you likely need to put the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester on the car and find out what is going on.

I agree. I will try to find someone locally who has it or send her to the dealer. Maybe a good excuse to purchase myself.

Did I somehow trigger alarm immobilizer? Has anyone else done this whilst replacing ignition switch? Neither of my keys will start the car but when I test power on back of switch all works properly. Also, old ignition switch reinstalled does not operate either.

On switch bypass, which wires go to which? I know yel/bro has power...

Yellow/Violet and Brown are the wires on the switch.

Connect them together to bypass the switch.

Thanks! That is what I figured. No success with the switch bypass.

I have tested all positions on the back of the ignition switch and voltage outputs seems to correlate with according key positions. Tomorrow I will see if the start lock relay is getting juice. Beyond that not sure where to go.

On switch bypass, which wires go to which? I know yel/bro (2nd from right) has power...

Bridge the clutch switch to be sure.

And, you are sure your battery is good?

I will bridge the clutch switch. Battery is 7 months old. I trickle charged and of course attempted to jump with no change. Dash lights mostly all stay on and no fuel pump or starter click. I will post back tomorrow. Thank you!

Loren,

These are similar symptoms to what I am having. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/18667-help-996-wont-start-need-advice-fast/

Bridge the clutch switch to be sure.

And, you are sure your battery is good?

I will bridge the clutch switch. Battery is 7 months old. I trickle charged and of course attempted to jump with no change. Dash lights mostly all stay on and no fuel pump or starter click. I will post back tomorrow. Thank you!

The relays are all solid state these days - it would be usual.

Did you check the clutch interlock switch?

Well, I hear it click in and out and all the wires are hooked up. It just seems so bizarre to me. Could a faulty new switch trip anything?

If it started before the bad ignition switch then either you have a blown fuse or a bad switch.

Have you tried the old switch to verify.

Checked the old switch by re-installing. Same symptoms. Went through and checked all my fuses. I am at a loss. I will try tomorrow to get a voltmeter on the yellow wire from ignition switch to see if relay is getting juice. Is there any other relay I can swap over to see if the relay is somehow out?

What was the symptom before you changed the ignition switch?

Loren,

No symptoms at all. The ignition switch was not operating properly. Car still ran fine. Didn't start it yesterday before I started working on it but pulled it in the garage the night before. Anyhow, my switch now operates mechanically but no start. I reinstalled a couple times to ensure I didnt miss anything. All is plugged in... ??

1999 Porsche Carrera 2, 6-speed, US

Yesterday I installed a new ignition switch. New switch seems to operate properly. However, when I try to start my car's dash lights do not go off and when I move key to "run" the fuel pump does not kick. When I move key to start, nothing happens and all engine lights remain on. Any ideas?

Also, can someone share with me the location of the relay boxes as well as relay positions in the box. I need to see if my new switch is garbage by verifying starter relay has juice. Thanks in advance.

Any advice is much appreciated.

99' C2 w/ 86k

I would have done my clutch replacement but without a lift figured it was waaay too much of a pain in the you know what!

I got three quotes and ended up at my indie with an 8 hour estimate and all with complete Sachs factory clutch parts (no flywheel), $1235 including tax, said and done. Other quotes ranged from $1200- $1700 between another indie and also dealer.

My advise on the RMS is if you know it has been done before and it is not leaking, leave it alone. I was unsure on mine, however, it was not leaking at all so i left it alone. If its leaking, well, thats an easy answer.

Pete

Juniinc,

Where did you get the carbon bit done? Thanks!

I get 16-17 mpg no problem around town and freeway and I drive the ***** out of it. On long road trip got about 27 mpg.

99' C2 6-Spd w/ 84k

Made of heavy duty aluminium.

Thanks! Definitely worthwhile for the price then. I am getting one.

Is it metal? I can't tell from the picture.