suburban99

When you order an AOS, it comes with the bellows and the clamp (w/ the blue contraption that holds it in the open position. I'm surprised your last AOS didn't come with the bellows.

Were you getting P codes associated with a torn bellows?

No, the seal for AOS to the block was leaking. I removed it to change the seal. Replaced the o rings in the j tube and decided to change the bellows as well.

I removed my 2 year old AOS from my 1997 Boxster to replace the seal that goes between the AOS and the engine block.

Also ordered a new bellows, and 2 new clamps for the bellows, I ordered 1 top and 1 bottom clamp. The bottom clamp comes with a small plastic appauratus the holds the clamp open until removed. Makes changing the AOS much easier. The last time I changed my AOS and the bellows and clamps I did not get one of these. I clamped a small pair of vise grips to the clamp to hold it open...maybe they have been around for years...? anyway here's a picture.

The small 5 watt bulb is known as a city light. In some European cities it's against the law to drive with the headlights on and only with the city/marker lights. When I install a universal DTRL kit I use the city lights and triggered power from the windshield washer nozzle heater circuit.

Sounds like a good idea. I curently have the hack that prohovie is referring to.

Where did you make the connection for the washer heater circuit? Mine is a 1997...Thanks

Bradbury of Braintree! I've not seen one of those in ages. With no load on the lift inspect all the cable pulleys for wear and play in the axle bushings as it's a common point of wear on these older lifts.

Thanks, I did...it was well maintained and working in a small Foreign Car specialist in Vancouver. The garage owner was 8 when his father had the lifts installed...he made sure he sold it to someone who would use it and not scrap it. Here's a picture of how I unloaded it.

I did the same thing on a Dodge Ram 5.2L front cover. Put wrong bolt in front cover after swapping the engine. Actaully broke the timing chain when I tried to start the engine.

Of course engine would not start...had to remove cover and replace the timing chain. Now I take a piece of cardboard and sketch the shape of what I am removing. then put

X's where the bolts are are punch a hole. As I remove the bolts, they get put in the same spot on the diagram and it makes for trouble free re-assembly.

Part number on my AOS is 996.107.023.04

Here is a picture of the port in the block that the AOS fits into. Looks like some leftover gasket material?

I thought maybe the oil pump or cam cover was leaking but after I got it in the air I could see the oil was coming from somewhere higher on the block. Very small amount but it drips on the exhaust occasionally.

Should I be using sealant on the red rubber seal?

4" of concrete, has only 1 hydraulic cylinder and 2 sets of cables for the other posts. 220v 3phase motor that I am running on 220v single via an inverter.

built a set of lift bars that match the the lift holes of the car. I have seen 4 post and 2 post Bradbury's but never a 3 post...

Currently have my foglights hacked as daytime running lights. (DRL required in Canada) Instead of the foglights i want to use the small lights inside the headlight that go on when you turn car off with the headlights on...I don't know what these small lights are called. Has anyone done this?

Thanks Maurice. What about a 1997? I know there is different models of the AOS...maybe I got the wrong one?

Installed this hoist in my 2nd garage for my boxster. It is an oldie but a goodie. Easy to get at engine and transmission.

Paid $400...1977 Bradbury 3 post.

Need part number for small red seal on bottom of the AOS that seals AOS to block. Changed AOS about a year ago and now it is leaking from the bottom port. Don't really want to buy whole AOS if I do not need to. Thanks

Thanks Maurice, what is the function of this switch? I did not know it was there...

1997 Boxster windows drop when unlatched, top goes about 6 inches down then stops, then top goes up and down about 3 inches but will not go all the way down or all the way up. Pushing the down button or up button makes no difference. I have had problems with the latch micro switches in the past and have a new switch coming from Sunset. Any ideas?

Replacing the carpet in my 1997 Boxster. Previous owner was a serious smoker and did not believe in ashtrays apparently.

Found this wire pinched inside the spring under the passenger seat. At first i thought it was just caught in the spring but after I removed the seat it became clear that this wire is enclosed in the spring...Any ideas how it got this way?

Removed the frost plug, Obviously it has been leaking. Replaced it with an 18mm frost plug from Napa.

Resealed cover with Napa copper permatex. It seems to be considerably thicker than the Loctite 5900.

This time I removed both blowers from the passenger side and dropped the engine a bit. Made it easier to get the cover back on.

Just waiting on parts from Auto Atlanta...o ring's and spark plug tubes. Next time will use Sunset...much faster shipping and cheaper.

Do these little "frost plugs" (for lack of a better term) in cam cover ever leak? After dis-assembly it looks like this one is leaking. Are they available as a part?

Hey all, got a question about cam cover sealant. I have removed my cam covers 3 times and have a persistant leak on the passenger side. I cleaned the surfaces well and used Loctite 5900. Torqued according to the manual and it was good for a few months.

Car is stored now due to weather and i would like to get this resolved. This time I am doing it with the engine in the car, but i have removed both blowers from the passenger side to allow more room. Is there a different (better?) sealant that I should be using? Any tips to make it successful? Thanks

IMO Oklahoma foreign is good. I have bought used parts from them.

Could be the blower fan for the heat and AC...mine was making a sound after I replaced my heater core.

Fairly spendy unit so I disassembled and lubed it. Been fine ever since. Not too terribly dificult to remove and bench test with a 12v battery.

Sounds like a good suspect. Nothing called such in the repair manual, the German to English translation thing... Please give me some insight as to where to find the thing. I'm all over it tomorrow.

Much thanks,

Don

Here's a link ....good luck

http://sites.google....hvacblowermotor

Could be the blower fan for the heat and AC...mine was making a sound after I replaced my heater core.

Fairly spendy unit so I disassembled and lubed it. Been fine ever since. Not too terribly dificult to remove and bench test with a 12v battery.

What mass is the meter reading at idle and at 2000 RPM?

I am out of town till Friday. I will hook up the Durametric and see what the readings are at Idle and 2000 rpm..

At idle, oil temp 97.25c

760 rpm, 1.35 to 1.37 air mass 15 to 15.25

At 2000 rpm

2000 rpm 1.64 and air mass 32.25

Any help appreciated..

What mass is the meter reading at idle and at 2000 RPM?

I am out of town till Friday. I will hook up the Durametric and see what the readings are at Idle and 2000 rpm..

1997 Boxster US model occasionally gets a code 1124 and 1126.

Have Durametric, if MAF voltage is steady at idle and goes up with RPM is MAF ok?

How else can you check MAF with Durametric?

Since you have replaced the camshaft chains, variocams etc. would it not be possible that the cause of your problem can be found in this area?

Some M96 engines have only one camshaft sensor (country dependant), the cylinder bank without the sensor can not put a fault code in that case.

Car is a 1997, US model. It has 2 camhaft sensors. When I changed the MAF, the air intake tube looked loose on the throttle body. After wriggling it around I found

it to be disconnected. Re-attached and it seems to be good now. It's possible that I did not get it far enough on when I re-installed the engine. It must have pulled off as

I have driven the car several times when the weather was decent...after re-installing the MAF I got code 102....but I cleared it and it has not re-appeared...weird.

Changed plugs and checked coils on 4-5-6...plugs needed changing.

Car idles now when started, but when approaching a stop sign it will stall...starts right up again.

Cleared codes and none have re-appeared. Going to try cleaning MAF now..