suburban99

Perhaps your CEL is burnt out?

No it comes on with every key on sequence... then goes out as it should..

I have a durametric (just got it) I guess I will have to hook it up tomorrow and see what I can learn from it.

I guess I will check all the leads on the drivers side and make sure the coils are tight, and change plugs...

Hey guys, drove my car last week about 80 miles, parked it in the garage.

Started it up tonight and car would not idle. Took it for a run to town and back no codes...and no idle (stalled at every light)

Drove another 6-8 miles still no CEL and car still would not idle. Parked in Garage and finally had pending codes 1316, 1317, 1318, 1319. but no CEL.

I searched and found out the codes are cylider 4-5-6 misfire and emmision related missfire...but why no CEL?

Had the engine in and out in the winter and replaced both camshaft chains, variocam shoes, IMS bearing, RMS, clutch, etc and have driven car numerous times since.

I was getting a re-occuring CEL and added Techron last time I fueled up. Car is about 3/4 full.

I guess the question is why no CEL, even though car will not idle, and why all of a sudden?

Good luck finding a Porsche only Wrecking yard in Canada...

Try Oklahoma Foreign...I have dealt with them several times. They also will haggle..

First I am not a mechanic. But I have worked a bunch on my Boxster (1997 2.5).

Mine had skipped a tooth because cam tensioners were worn out. Timing was off about 1 tooth. CEL was on with various codes.

One thing that helped me out when I first bought the car was manuals...Bentley and 1 I got online for free. Also watch the series of videos

on you tube as a guy is rebuilding a Boxster S engine. 13 or 14 videos IIRC. Here's a link.

Google Boxster manuals for free and you should find the manual...Good Luck.

I did both of mine and the only special tool I used was to hold the camshafts in position while the cam cover was removed/re-installed.

I just welded one up and it is nothing fancy, but it works. You can time the camshafts with the timing marks and bright links on the chains.

I have had good luck with used parts at decent prices from Oklahoma Foreign.

You must call them as e-mail repsonse is slow.

1997 Silver Boxster...My car is finally going in for paint. I need to decide what color to paint the side vents (only the inside) and the grilles in front.

Pictures anyone? I was thinking flat black?

An update:

Replaced the following in my 1997 2.5

-All serpentine pulley bearings and belt

-AOS with new style

-All spark plug tubes and O-rings

-Both sides camshaft timing chains (endless) and Varia cam wear shoes

-All O-rings in Power Steering pump. Actually had no fluid in resovior when disassembled.

-New O-rings in left and right bank oil pump.

-New RMS

-New IMS bearing. Replaced with exactly same type but pulled bearing seals to allow engine oil in.

-New J-tube and O-rings

-New clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate

-Front engine mount rubbers

-New rear stabilizer bushings

-New plastic piece where you add oil, old ones was cracked and allowed oil on top of engine

-New dipstick plastic tube. Old one was broken.

-Drained and replaced power steering fluid.

Parts were about $850.00 from Sunset with the clutch kit being the most expensive...(around $400.00)

Car started right up after re-install. :D

Car runs shifts and idles better...well worth the time and pain...

They are the same. Found the info on an Audi site...

The Vw/Audi fluid is green as well. (as is the o-ring in the power steering pump resevoir)

Thanks

1997 Boxster.

I have read that VW/Audi fluid G 004 000 M2 fluid is equivilant to pentosin for our power steering.

I have searched this forum and cannot get a clear answer. Anyone know for sure? Thanks

I was at The Rennshop today and we looked at your pictures. Marvin said what you think is the original clutch looks like a Sachs replacement.

I have a 1997 owned for 10 years and Marvin replaced my clutch last year with a Sachs replacement. I saved my original parts and when I returned home to look, they do look a bit different than what you think is the original. So the clutch you are replacing may not be the original.

Yes the one in the car is (was) a Sachs clutch. New one came in a Porsche box from Sunset. Not a sachs...pressure plate springs are considerably stronger than sachs one that was in the car.

Yes they are "matched"...clutch disc and pressure plate are both wider than the one I removed.

Must give more "grab" as springs are bigger and surface area greater. Fits ok. I bought from Sunset so I figured it would be ok...

Another picture.

1997 Boxster.

Put in new camshaft chains, and wear shoes, AOS, plug tubes, oil fill tube etc... ready to install new clutch and pressure plate.

Bought a clutch kit from Sunset and it is siqnificantly wider than existing one in car. Original is 1-1/8" and new one is 1-5/8" wide.

Pressure plate is also wider than original. Also the springs on the pressure plate appear to be thicker and fewer. Overall diameter is the same.

I assume it is an upgraded version? clutch disc is part number 987 116 014 00...comments?

Awesome and great job.

Now if you could id alternates to the sealed bearings used in the transmission that would be a huge savings. Porshe wants $365 for one and $265 for another. It adds up pretty quick to nearly $1K in bearings when you go to rebuild the trans in either the Boxster, BoxsterS or 996.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

I am relatively sure that Porsche does not make any bearings but uses "off the shelf" for most applications... Virtually any bearing is available if you know the type (single row, double row, angular contact, cone etc) and the dimensions...most often at reduced cost...

I have had good luck getting used parts from Oklahoma Foreign. Call as they do not return e-mail very quick..

Does anyone have a source for these bearings? Google isn't helping me much.

are these the same ? http://www.asnlaundryparts.com/6203-Bearing-p/6203.htm

thanks

Yes they are the same. Any local bearing wholesaler should have as well.

I have done this 3 times...2x in car...I am not using the camshaft tensioner tools

All I have is a homemade camshaft holding tool for cover removal and re-install.

Scribe lines on the timing gear, oil pump drive, and timing chain.

Wire timing gear to timing chain. Slack off timing chain tensioner. Keep chain tight with rubber strap hooked to gear.

Make sure you see the dots on the cams before removing, and make sure the timing chain bright links are directly above dots.

As long as you do not move the position...you will be good to go.

Wow, and I thought the ones on my 996 at 50,000 were bad. But why three sets? There are only two in an engine. New sets are only about $15 from Sunset. You should look at your oil change intervals and the type of oil you are using. This can lead to excessive wear if you don't change your oil often enough and use the wrong oil.

Oil changes at 5000km since I have owned the car...damage was from the Previous owner...three sets because I changed the Varia cam unit and it came with shoes.

I knew I would be tearing into the engine in the winter as car is off road until April...

Here is a picture of the camshaft shoes that I removed from my 1997 Boxster.

The pair on the left were on Bank 1-3 and the air on the right were on Bank 4-6.

The car has about 100,000 miles. I changed the complete Varia cam unit with a used one from Oklahoma foreign last spring.

The car was throwing codes and timing on bank 1-3 had jumped. As you can see the 4-6 bank was no better...I has planned on changing them this winter, and am glad I removed engine to do so.

It is considerably easier to do a good job with engine out of car...

I am near the point of replaceing my engine. Possibly - not sure just yet - and it would be due to the IMS failure. How difficult is it to take this engine out? I have the time but am weary of working on it in my garage. I have worked on a 944 and rebuilt the clutch, exhaust, and a few other minor engine parts but not taking it all the way out. What am I up against? How high do I need to get the car to clear the bottom of the car? etc.... Boxster 99 model -

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined it is not that tough. Buy a Bentley manual...not the best but it does have a step by step for engine removal.

As far as the height to slide engine out from under, I have my 1997 front tires on 4" wood blocks, and jackstands at the rear jacking points. I removed the transmission first, as i believe it is easier and I will install new seals before I re-install. I have 2 costco style small floorjacks and in order to get the intake manifolds past the cross member studs I needed to jack the car up under the pinch welds and used 2-4x4 blocks on top of the jack. The top block has a groove cut in it from a circular saw to slip over the pinch weld. I will measure and post when i re-install the engine.

Its probably original..Post some pics of it.

Pics did not turn out well, but bearing is a 6204 DUA 17 NSK

The OE bearings can be made in:

Finland

Japan

I have seen one made in Spain, but just one... None seem to be better than the others, but there are more of the Japanese units in service it seems.

Thanks Jake. I guess maybe I should consider an IMS bearing upgrade, although bearing does not look original and is in good shape.

Loosened the timing chain tensioners to take the tension off the IMS. Loosen, do not remove...

You went to all that trouble and didn't investigate the LN IMS bearing replacement part? LNengineering.com has lots of these bearings.

Yes I did investigate it. I just did not invest in it...Car has 107,000 miles and runs good. When I opend the seal on the existing bearing a small amount of engine oil was inside the bearing. The bearing must have been changed at some point not too long ago. The bearing is in good shape. With my luck I would spend $600.00 on the upgrade and the next week would have a "D" chunk failure...