suburban99

Engine is out of car 1997 Boxster. Pulled IMS housing off and found bearing to be relatively new and in good shape. (IMO)

Bearing is made in Japan. I would assume a factory bearing would be made in Germany?...? Pulled plastic seal and changed o-ring and re-installed housing...

All the bearings are the same size in all the serp pulleys.

The tensioner pulley has a 15mm bolt in the back and a 15/16" (?mm) on the front side.

These pulleys are also all the same, regardless of function. Good luck.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

Mine is a 1997...

You run a wire from the foglight fuse to pin 86 of the foglight relay.

When ignition switch is turned on foglights go on.

When highbeams are on, foglights go off.

You might find the photos on this site useful. this is the guy who rebuilt his "S" motor on youtube. site is 986fix.com. I think my 98 Boxster has a blown head gasket so I have been looking into engine removal procedures.

There is also some good videos on u-tube...search boxster engine removal.

How do you remove the slave cylender without loosing fluid? I am in the process of removing my drive train and am at this point. Just curious.

One bolt on top of transmission. Access from the left is best...IIRC...:)

I have a Bentley Manual but it really lacks in the details. Where do you suggest getting a factory workshop manual that is of higher quality? I see several of them in PDF electronic formats for $10-$40. Are these really any good? Has anyone used them?

I used a combination of the bentley and one other source. PM me...

Great, thanks. I'll check those.

The lower side of the first pic is from the driver's side, the upper side would be towards the passenger side. The other two pics are from a similar orientation, just zoomed in.

Cracked oil fill tube or bad o ring could be the source. I removed my engine a couple weeks ago and have oil in the exact same spot.

My oil fill tube cracked while I was trying to remove it and I suspect it had been cracked for some time.

Thank you all for the inputs, really appreciated it...I went ahead and bought the tubes and O rings today. I will open and inspect this weekend and report back. Btw, thanks Loren for converting the file.

i also agree that in that area its more likely to be the AOS or at least the bellows tube that sits directly on the bottom of the unit

Could also be the o ring for the right bank oil pump...mine was leaking there when I bought it.

I have this hack on my MY 01 S.......it works fine.

Today a friend bought a MY 01 S with factory Litronics........same 6 & 9 fuses for the HID's?

Mine is hacked to run the foglights as DRL. I think it looks better...a car imported from elsewhere will not pass inspection into Canada without Daytime running lights.

You do not need to disconnect the lines. Take off the belt, undo the 3 compressor mounting bolts and slide it out as you lower the motor.

If you removed the actual aluminum bumper with its associated heat shield you do not need to lift the rear of the car as high. After removing the plastic bumper cover it is only held on by two bolts.

Also the transmission does not need to be removed before removing the motor, it is easier to drop as an assembly.

The entire procedure is laid out in the factory workshop manual. In my opinion, a cheap investment if you are going to be doing this type of work.

-Todd

Actually the height is needed to get the intake manifolds to barely pass under the stabilizer or aluminum support chanel bolts. These pieces are removed, however the mounting studs

are still there...and in the way. I would not try it the first time without dropping the tranny. My tranny was quite grungy and needed a good cleaning anyway. If memory serves the shift cables pull off easily and the slave cylinder can be detached without losing any fluid. All that's left is the mounting bolts for the tranny mounts and the reverse light switch. With tranny out there is much more room to work. IMO of course..

Also the a/c unit is easy to remove while LOWERING the engine...Lower it bit and it slides right out and into the cockpit with lines attached...

suburban99- Your my new best friend!

I discovered my misfire issue was due to 0 compression in #4 cylinder today. I'm guessing I have a bad valve problem and I need to remove the head. So, I too will be dropping my 986 engine this week for Thanksgiving. I also plan to use jack stands in the rear. Too bad, I just replaced the cam solenoid on the other side last month with engine in the car. Would have been much easier now.

Did you use 2 jack stands on the rear of the car?

How high did you need the clearance to be?

Did you remove the bumper and muffler or was the car high enough.

I plan to document the process and post for all, but I'm sure I may be asking for some tips and tricks along the way

A picture is worth a thousand words...(bumper,tranny,muffler all off) made a custom bridge assembly to hold the engine while I removed transmission, and then lowered engine onto a motorcycle style scissor jack and slid it out.

Whatever you do, engine in or out, please consider posting a diy on it as I have 127K on mine and considering doing this as well, however I am uncertain as to what level of expertise it will require. I will have the tranny out for an IMSR, RMS, Clutch job, 160 thermostat and coolant hoses change, which I feel confortable doing but the inside of the engine would be new territory.

Will do my best. I have 2 days of Insurance left and it's away for the Winter and the fun can start...

Any updates?

Engine and tranny are out, actually not too bad, getting the car high enough to slide it out from underneath is the tough part. Parts on order from Sunset include vario cam wear shoes, camshaft timing chains, AOS, numerous hoses and seals and clutch kit. Total was about $800.00 or so.

Engine is on a stand and it is much easier to work on...

I have removed the engine on my 1997 boxster 5 speed, and found a puddle of oil on the top of the motor. The oil fill tube was very brittle and cracked

when I was removing the engine. Car has 106,000 miles and runs good. I have added 1 litre of oil all summer and drove about 3-4000 miles. I have a leak at the passenger side cam cover that I will address as well.

I believe the oil came from a cracked fill tube but do not know for sure. Any ideas? RMS is good but IMS seal is leaking and I will replace bearing.

Flywheel has about 10-11mm movement cw and ccw...returns to centre when released. I will re-install.

What is the wear limit for the clutch? Or should I replace while I am in there...do not know history of clutch replacement.

I have removed the engine from my 1997 5 speed. I grabbed the pressure plate and twisted it to see if the clutch was engaged tight. I noticed the flywheel moved about 2 or 3 degrees like it was rubber mounted.

As these cars have a dual mass flywheel, how much should it move? (I removed the flywheel to check the IMS and RMS.)

there is one transmission to motor mounting bolt that is different than the others. this is bolt #4 in the bentley manual. it is near tranny bottom on driver side. appears to take a torx bit for removal. anybody happen to know the size torx needed? largest i have is T-45, and it is too small. TIA.

2000 2.7L w/tiptronic

I am in the proces of removing my transmission as well. The bolt on my 1997 5 speed is a 10MM triple square also known as a ZXN socket. I bought one at NAPA...

It looks like a torx, but has 12 points instead of 6 points...

Please get a service manuals and read through the process.

The transmission comes out first or both the engine and transmission together.

If you take the transmission out first the engine will need to be supported. Again, please buy a repair manual and study up on this so you don't do damage.

Loren, I have a Bentley and another manual in .pdf version. I have read through both several times. I cannot see where it says remove transmission first.

However all the Bentley pictures are without the transmission attached.

The .pdf version says to remove them together using a special plate that holds tranny and engine together.

I guess the question really is what way is easier without a lift? I am leaning towards transmission first.