suburban99

I had a similar issue with my 97 boxster. Camshafts were out of alignment when I bought it.

You can remove the cam cover and the cams and the varia cam without removing engine.

You do need to drop it off the front mount a bit. Mine was only 1 link out. Car ran good with timing like this,

only CEL kept coming on. There is a thread here with some pictures.

1997 boxster

During this recession we are all looking for a bargain. I was getting p1126 and p1124 very infrequently.

Found an air leak in the J tube and replaced o rings. Still had CEL with p 1124 and p1126 every 4-500 miles.

Call Sunset about a MAF and it was not in the budget. Found a non bosch one and ordered it. So far so good ;)

Thanks for the replies. I got them to work. Then I disconnected my DRL hack and made a DRL foglight hack. Much better look than using the headlights. :)

Foglight fuse was missing from the fusebox. Also had DRL hack as I needed to get the car inspected in Canada.

Disconnected DRL hack added a fuse and foglights come on when I pull the switch...but switch does not stay out. Small foglight symbols

illuminate on the bezel of the switch. Is the switch supposed to stay out from the dash 1/4" or so when fogs are on?

I have a Bentley manual as I have done some engine work to the car. I am now getting time to fix the little problems and driving the car and loving it.

When I Turn the switch to the left 1 click the right front headlight goes on and the rear tailight on the right side.

When I turn the switch 2 clicks to the left the left headlight comes on and the left tailight.

When I pull the switch out it does not do anything, it just goes back in. It does not click and I do not feel any indentations...no flicker of the foglights. Even if I hold the switch out.

Should my headlight switch stay out when pulled straight out?

Do not have owners manual.

I will try to pull the switch out and see what happens.

What does the switch do when you turn it to the left?

1997 Boxster 5 speed

Do all Boxsters have foglights? I have read that they do and my headlight switch can be turned to the left...but the small lights on the front in the headlight/turn signal cluster do not come on...I do not want to remove the headlight cluster unless I am sure the car actually has foglights. The bulbs may be burnt out...

Check the stabilizer bar (sway bar) end links. I as well has a rattle in the front end. Turns out it is a worn link. Starts making noise after 5 minutes of driving.

I broke loose the ball joints and strut arms to find out what it was as I thought it was a balljoint.

petee c:

I just bought my first Porsche in February and imported it to Canada as well. I have done quite a bit of repairs to it and now have a car that gets "nice Car" wherever I go. I live in a suburb of Vancouver and although there are many Porsches in Vancouver, where I live they are very rare.

A couple things I have learned here and other sites:

Sunset imports in Oregon has the best prices I have found on Porsche parts...65% less than other shops in BC...including freight and exchange. Parts guys are top notch.

Oklahoma foreign has excellent prices on all Porsche parts. They are a Porsche recycler. Call them as e-mail is slow from them.

There is a huge amount of knowledge on this site...if you use it right...and there is no such thing as a "poor man's Porsche..." good luck..

Thanks Loren, "J" tube o-rings were leaking air into the throttle body....Found it using my propane torch as my Dad should me years ago on a Willy's...

Somethings you just never forget... :)

Is there a safe way to use a propane torch to find an air leak as you describe doing? If so, would you explain it in detail?

Regards, Maurice.

My Dad (RIP), was a professional auto mechanic. Growing up we would repair Jeeps and cars and friends cars etc. One of the tricks he showed me was how to find a vacuum leak.

You use a small unlit propane torch turned very, very low with the vehicle idling. Pass the UNLIT torch over the suspected area and if there is a vacuum leak the engine rpm will increase.

Make sure that this is performed OUTDOORS.

Have all the areas for treatment mapped out in your mind before you start. It takes only a few seconds to pass the torch over an entire engine's possible leak generators.

On some of the older pre EFI cars there was way more vacuum lines than on EFI auto's and they were hard to find.

I take no responsibiity for anyone using this method, but it does work...

Thanks Loren, "J" tube o-rings were leaking air into the throttle body....Found it using my propane torch as my Dad should me years ago on a Willy's...

Somethings you just never forget... :)

Sunset is tops for new. I am in Canada and order all my new parts from Sunset. For used parts try Oklahoma Foreign...they will have one in the

same color at a reasonable cost...call them as they are slow to return e-mail.

Fuel filter?

Fuel pump fuse? I had a problem with power supply to the Drivers side fan. I changed the resistor and afterwards the fan was intermitent.

Pulled the fuse cover and saw the 30amp fuse for drivers side fan arching, had to bend the connectors to get a better connection. Hopefully fuel pump fuse is loose as well.

I see that you are in Washington..If you need to borrow the hold down tool I can lend it to you. I live in BC but work in BC and Tacoma. It could be picked up in Tacoma if needed.

Originally posted as PO1124 and PO1126 but my car is a 1997 and has the 5.2.2 DME...my Bad

Codes are P1124 and P1126...

From my Bentley manual P1124- fuel pump relay output stage and P1126 Oxygen sensor adaptation lower load 1-3

Any ideas? Thanks...

For the holder, how much pressure does this need to bear. Seems like you could make it out of hardwood and dowels. Am I dreaming?

Do the two dowels fit into slots in the cam shaft or just press against the ends?

Thanks for your help - looks like I have a solenoid replacement job this w/e. Getting P1341 (DME 7.2).

Cams have quite a bit of pressure as after the cover is removed they are only held in 1 place each, at the varia cam end of the camshaft.

This tends to get the cams to lift out of their respective "bearings" at the opposite end. The tool holds the cams down while cover is removed and re-installed.

The 2 pins fit into the ends of the camshaft as they have a recessed area..and the tool is bolted to a tapped hole in the head.

Make sure you checked the wiring for the Camshaft sensor and the solenoid bank 1 before you right off the solenoid.

I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?

I did not notice the timing was out when I first dug into the engine. After I changed the solenoid the same error codes kept coming back. Before changing the solenoid I tested the wires from the solenoid to the DME...and the wires for the camshaft position sensor to the DME. I also swapped the camshaft sensor from right side to left side and still had same error codes on right side.

The second time I took it apart I put the engine to TDC #1 and check the timing marks. The chain between the camshafts had skipped 1 tooth. I pulled the camshafts and the Varia Cam unit and the camshaft guides on the bottom of the Varia Cam unit were broken and you could see where chain was getting caught. A new varia cam unit is about $600-800 and the used one I got was $100 (excellent shape)

The only way to get them in or out is together. Not very easy when the engine is in car but possible...

I think I am going to have to do mine. How much was the cam holding tool?

Also, in the last but one photo where is your tool holding the camshaft? Thanks.

Tool is attached to head and the pins go inside the indents in the ends of the camshaft. I made up my own tool...

They run about $150.00 here in Canada last time I checked. I ended up removing both camshafts and resetting timing (skipped a tooth)

as well I replaced the entire varia cam assembly the second time with a good used one. Changing just the solenoid is no biggie...Just make sure

you don't pinch the coil power supply wires as I did...(had to remove cover and start over)..good luck!

Thanks for the replies guys. I will re-clean the MAF again. I did not disconnect the battery last time but car was laid up as I was repairing the Varia Cam and timing. I think I had the battery disconnected but can't remember. Car idles excellently most of the time. I will recheck the idle control valve as well, as the gasket was questionable.... I have a new air filter coming from Sunset. Idle is steady when cold. Throttle body is clean.

Had my 1997 Boxster 5 speed on the road for about a week or so now. Cold starts good. Idles ok when cold. After driving for 10 minutes or so, sometimes it will stall when I come to a traffic light. It did this about 5 days ago, then it was good for 3-4 days, now it did it again this AM. Car cannot find its idle....sometimes. I have cleaned the MAF, and idle control valve and throttle body about 2 months ago... No CEL present but have had PO1126 and PO1124 about 2 weeks ago. I occasionally check the codes even if the light is not on...I suspect MAF is going south but need another opinion before I spend $300 or so.

Squeak was coming from the lower control arm balljoint on drivers side. Disconnected balljoint and shot a wad of grease in it using a needle attachment for my grease gun. Balljoint was still tight. It is possible to sneak the needle alongside the stem of the balljoint without damaging the rubber. You must disconnect it first.

Can just the bushings be replaced or do I have to change the whole arm? If bushings are available, where? Thanks

1997 Boxster is squeaky on the drivers side when I go over a bump.

It only happens after the car has been driven for 30 minutes or so. Tried to jack

up car and have someone rock it to find source but it won't sqeak. Also jacked up

the front and placed a 6"x4" block under each front wheel..could not duplicate noise.

Does the front end require any lubrication? I did not see any nipples... :o

The drivers side cooling fan on my 1997 Boxster does not activate when the A/C is turned on. Passenger side seems ok.

Removed fan and put 12v to the terminals and it works. Pulled apart the connector and I have 12v at the plug to fan.

What is the small cylinderical switch wired into the circuit that is located in the air duct to the fan? Rheostat of some sort? What is the function

of this switch? I have read that both cooling fans should be on high when the A/C is turned on.

Any of you guys around Long Island, NY have a PST2 I could rent from ya?

Thanks in advance, Matt

You don't need a PST2 to clear the codes you have. Most codes can be read and cleared with a Generic reader. The one I have cost about $40.00 and will read any OBDII codes. I keep it in the car now and will buy a replacement for my truck.