Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Gizzard

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Gizzard

  1. Okay, look at it this way.

    lots of new cars have low tire pressure warning indications.

    Most of these work by comparing the rate of rotation of each wheel, using the ABS sensor signals, against a KNOWN, previously estabished, reference.

    What reference?

    Well, if you happen to RESET one of these low pressure warning systems while the tire in question is still low then a NEW (incorrect, but...) reference is established and the warning system will be perfectly "happy" unless it detects an additional change, relatively, in a tire's rational rate.

    I know, personally, of instances wherein someone noticed a slightly low tire, re-inflated it to spec, and the low pressure warning light illuminated as soon as the car was driven. The newly inflated tire's rotational rate no longer matched the previously established reference for that tire in relation to the other three.

    Disconnect the battery and be done with it!

    This does seem like its probably the best suggestion. I will give it a try this evening. Thx

    So I did the battery thing. It made no difference. I guess I am not really surprised, it seemed a little unlikely that the system worked this way, I would expect that it would average itself out over time.

    So I am a bit at a loss as to what to do next. I am not much enjoying of the TC coming on in places I know very well it doesnt need to. I also dont really want to go fork out another $1k on a complete new set of tires if I can avoid it.

    I did check the tire depths, just to make sure. I have about 5mm on the fornts and 7 or so on the backs. So thats probably not it either.

  2. Okay, look at it this way.

    lots of new cars have low tire pressure warning indications.

    Most of these work by comparing the rate of rotation of each wheel, using the ABS sensor signals, against a KNOWN, previously estabished, reference.

    What reference?

    Well, if you happen to RESET one of these low pressure warning systems while the tire in question is still low then a NEW (incorrect, but...) reference is established and the warning system will be perfectly "happy" unless it detects an additional change, relatively, in a tire's rational rate.

    I know, personally, of instances wherein someone noticed a slightly low tire, re-inflated it to spec, and the low pressure warning light illuminated as soon as the car was driven. The newly inflated tire's rotational rate no longer matched the previously established reference for that tire in relation to the other three.

    Disconnect the battery and be done with it!

    This does seem like its probably the best suggestion. I will give it a try this evening. Thx

  3. Here are a few thoughts which might help you.  I have a lot of experience with the Pilot Sport and now also with the PS2.  Both are good sticky street tires, with the PS2 having the edge in that department.  Thus I would not expect the problem to persist once the PS2 is "broken in."  Typically, I would expect the new tires to be in pretty good shape within 500 or so miles.  My experience with 911s, though, is that they are happiest with the same kind of tire on both ends.  I can't tell whether you have PS2s with "N" rating or not.  The "N" represents a Porsche-Michelin effort at good compatibility. In any case, give them a few more "aggressive" miles and I suspect you'll be fine.

    Yep, they are the N-Rated ones. N2 in fact, though I only knew to look for an N rating.

  4. I assume tire pressure is checked right? New tires have deeper tread and thus more flexible and not corner as flat. Is PS2 supposed to be harder than PS1? If so, that's probly your cause (harder rubber usually means less traction). Stiffness of sidewall also has similar effect.

    The tire pressure is at 42psi, I changed it down from 44 to see if that helped but it made no appreciable difference.

    Both tires are N-Rated which is as per the reqs for Porsche wheels as far as I know. I dont really know much about the hardness of the rubber. Just that Pilot Sports in general are not regarded as being very hard, hence they wear out pretty quick.

  5. Hi all, long time lurker here, now in need of some help.

    I just replaced the rear tires on my US 2003 C4S. They were previously Michelin Pilot Sports. I replaced them with Pilot Sport 2's, exactly the same dimensions etc.

    Since replacing them, my Traction Control has been kicking in on one particular corner on my route to work. I am very familiar with this route, always used to take this specific corner at 70, never had the traction kick on. Now even at about 60, the traction kicks on.

    Obviously this is causing me a little concern, and a bit less trust in the car. I went back to the garage that changed the wheels, they are a good outfit who I trust, they could find nothing obviously wrong.

    So I wonder if anyone here has some insight?. Some extra info to clarify, I only changed the rears the fronts are still the PS1's, I have put about 500 miles on the tires since changing them, so its unlikley to be new tire wear in issues.

    The tire shop did suggest that it could be the fact that I didn't change the fronts, but didnt know for sure. Does anyone have experience of this causing such an issue?

    Could this be an alignment issue?

    I would appreciate some thoughts.

    Thx

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.