fourtaylor

Should I have my flywheel resurfaced?

Also should I do the RMS while I am in there?

I am in the midst of replacing my clutch on my 99 C2 (46K miles). I have the tranny out and the old clutch removed. The clutch had been slipping for a couple hundred miles before this point.

The flywheel feels fine and looks ok. I never had any problems with clutch shudder before but I am curious if I should have it resurfaced since I have access to it. And if I do have it resurfaced will I have to shim the flywheel afterward?

Secondly, I do not see any evidence of RMS issues. The car uses very little oil (NO need to add oil between oil changes). Should I even think about replacing the RMS?

I do plan to replace the oil seperator and release fork (waiting for those parts now).

Anything else I should do while she's apart?

Thanks, CT

I have been informed that the clutch release lever is a new part number...

996 116 712 04 Release lever (modified) => now 997-116-712-00

I am in the midst of my clutch replacement on my '99 C2. Getting the tranny out was not that bad.

I am waiting for a couple before I put it back together;

-release fork

-oil seperator

The flywheel looks ok, I never had any problems with it but I was curious if I should have it resurfaced or just leave it as is? If I do have it resurfaced how much can be machined before shims are required?

Thanks

Chris

I purchased a Sachs kit for $374 from Vertex (matched the price from www.gripforce.com on ebay) and dealer quoted me $400 to drop the engine alone. Can anyone give me the part number for the lever mentioned above that could cause premature wear? Thanks.

The part you are looking for is 996 116 712 04. Below are all the parts that need replacing per the TSB:

The engine does not have to be dropped to change the clutch.

Where?

I just bought a new clutch kit for my '99 Carrera C2 and received it today. I got the disc, pressure plate assy, and bearing for $339.00 with free shipping. It is all genuine Sachs and made in Germany.

Hello,

I need to replace the clutch on my 99 C2 as well.

Any other parts I should consider replacing when the car up and apart?

Any special tools required?

what is the part# for the release lever?

What about the RMS? I suppose having one on hand just in case would be a good idea.

Thanks in advance.

BTW shops around here are quoting 8 hours labor with labor rates in the $110-$125 range.

CT

Here is what I have based on the Oct 2005 MSRP dealer price list and Nov 2005 parts list:

Clutch disk - 997 116 013 10 - $251.03

Pressure plate - 996 116 027 02 - $298.12

Release bearing - 996 116 080 04 - $126.44

Clutch guide tube - 996 116 087 01 - $35.11

Total Parts: $709.70

7 hours seems a little over estimated also (IMHO). I would be more apt to believe 3-4 hours tops. Even the service manual quotes 350 TU (or 3 hours 50 minutes).

The clutch guide tube would (should?) have been replaced free had you complained of "creaking noises" under warranty.

The rears will not fit.  The 996 rim is a 10x18 and requires an ET of 63 or 65.

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Please educate me on what the offset number indicates?

In the case of 18x9.5 with 52mm offset vs 18x10 with 63/65 mm offset there is 1/2" difference in wheel width and also about 1/2" difference in offset.

Does larger offset indicate the wheel is pushed to the outside more?

Thanks.

My 99C2 w/ 41K miles has sport seats and both have some bolster wear that I am concerned with. The seats are black leather and I was wondering what steps can be done to minimize or repair the worn areas. Both are worn in the normal wear area. And the leather seems "scratched" and discolored slightly in those areas. I have tried leather cleaner/conditioner but it doesn't seem to "clean-up" the area.

One thought I had was swapping drive/passenger seats or seat backs, this would at least even the wear across both bolsters.

Any product recommendations for treating this type of leather condition?

Thanks in advance.

Chris.

Thanks guys,

kind of what I expected but thought i would ask the experts.

Chris

A local boxster owner is selling some turbo twist 18" wheels/tires;

the wheel part numbers are

FRONT: 993 362 134 06 (7.5x18 ET50?) did not check the tire size.

REAR: 993 362 138 01 (9.5x18 ET52?) with 265/35R18.

The tires are PZERO Asimmetrico, fronts are almost new. The rears have some miles on them but still have > 50% tread.

The wheels are in decent shape, one rear has some curb rash most the way around but could be repainted, the others have normal wear.

I have the same style wheels on my 99 C2 but I believe the stock 18" wheels on my 99 c2 are slightly wider? I didn't climb under to try to get the part numbers..

Will these wheels fit a 99c2?

He is asking $1200 for the wheels and tires, does this sound reasonable?

THanks in advance for your comments.

Chris.

Thanks Loren, that is the sound (Hoover) and yes I have noticed it at stoplights as well. I am glod to hear it is normal :)

Chris.

Does the engine compartment fan also come on when the engine is first started? The fan in my 99 seems to come on for ~30 seconds when the engine is first started cold than operates as Loren indicates.

Thanks,

Update:

I finally received the parts I ordered for the clutch line repair last night. I had the new line installed and power bled (via motive) in short order. Also installed the new belly pan (which came with a small crack in it :( ). I took her our last night and again today to test it out, all is good :). It is cold here in MN, but it is sunny and the roads are dry today...a great day to drive a 911!

I missed not being able to drive the car the last couple weeks.

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

Chris.

P.S. Now that I have the power bleeder I am tempted to replace all the brake fluid but maybe I will wait until spring.

According to the 99 911 Carrera Owner's Manual;

Traction Control (TC)

TC prevents spinning of the driven wheels when starting and accelerating. Driving stability and traction are improved over the whole speed range.

WARNING

The increased safety that is provided should not induce you to take greater risks with your safety.

Risks of accident due to inappropriate speed cannot be reduced, even by the TC.

The TC is ready for operation every time you start the engine.

The TC information light in the instrument panel is lit while the TC is performing a regulating action and warns you to adjust your drving style to road conditions.

Function

Driving stability control:

If the TC detects an excessive difference in rpm between the front and rear wheels (spinning) the engine power is automatically reduced.

Brake regulation:

Besides reducing the engine power (driving stability control), the TC brakes the driven wheel that is spinning.

There is some further information but that is the meat.

Eric, I doubt it is related but I had a strange rattle when I bought my 99 C2. It sounded like it was coming from the passenger side rear speaker enclosure. I spent a good week trying to figure it out. In the end the noise was coming from the passenger side front fender. The bolt that attaches the fender near the rear bottom of the fender (near the bottom front of the passenger side door) was just a bit loose and would vibrate above certain speeds. The sound was transmitted and magnified through the rocker panel like a tuba to the rear quarter panel.

Yes, I called Sunset and subsequently ordered the clutch line and a few other things from them (the plastic belly pan and some other stuff). It will take Sunset a few days to get the parts and then they will ship to me. I would expect I will get the parts sometime next week; hopefully prior to the weekend of 11/20. This will work out fine since I will be out of town this coming weekend. The unfortunate thing is we are running out of nice days in MN :(.

I also ordered the Motive power bleeder as suggested in the DIY section. I will report back on how it all works in a couple weeks.

Oh, I did have another question if anyone is still following this thread;

How much brake fluid should I expect to use? 1-2 Litres?

I am doing a major service and have to replace the spark plugs but I am having difficulty locating where they are and how you access them, I hope someone can help me.

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Yep you have to go at it from below. Follow the DIY per Loren.

I did my plugs a couple weeks back, I don't think taking the wheels off makes it much easier so I left them on. Jack and support the back of the car so you can get under with ease. The rear most plugs are the most difficult to get at due to the fact there is limited room. This was my first time and I would guess it took me around 1 hour+ to do all six.

Good Luck.

Chris

I can't believe the line is plastic??? As the line is shared with the brakes if you replaced the hose and brake and that slave line with braided I wonder how nice and firm the pedal would be afterwards????? HMMMM

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The line is not plastic.  It just has a blue plastic coating.  Not sure why.

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That is right the line is NOT plastic. It just looks like it might be. It is metal with a blue vinal coating; it has what look like brass fittings on either end. Seems pretty heave duty to me. I removed the leaking section of clutch line at lunch. Unfortunately no parts places that I have contacted stock the replacement so I will have to wait a week before I can drive my 996 again :(

Well here are a couple of photos I snapped this evening. The first shows the leak/squirt when the line has some pressure. Also note the line is crushed, either caused by the car bottoming out or possibly a misplaced jack.

This photos shows the crack in the belly pan. The missing part in the middle fell out when I was removing the belly pan.

Chris

Yes Loren, you nailed it again :)

I guess it is probably a good idea to keep some extra rivets and nuts, I will ask for those as well.

Thanks again,

Chris.

Thanks Loren, the diagram helps very much. I think you are right that it is item 10.

That is a steep price for a piece of plastic pipe! Must be all those custom bends :)

Do you know the partnumber for the rear - most plastic belly pan?

Thanks again, your site has been most helpful!

Yes, as many of you suspected there is a clutch fluid line leak. I did not take a picture yet but the leak is just in front of the drivers side rear jack point. It is right where the line makes a turn to go to the tranny. The hole is not visable by my naked eye but when under pressure a nice spray is visable. After raising the car it was pretty obvious where the leak was, there was a crack in the under belly plastic panel right under the clutch line and the clutch line was somewhat crushed above this. I noticed the crack previously but did not think much of it.

My next question (and I will ask the parts guy as well), is what do I do? Is there a line repair kit or do I just replace the line?

Thanks again, Chris

Sounds like your clutch has air in the line or the slave cylinder is leaking. Check the brake fluid level as the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir. There is a clutch/brake bleeding procedure here in the DIY section.

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Thanks for the quick response!

Is it a difficutl job to replace the slave cylinder?

Chris

My quick trip to Wal-mart turned into a three hour tour!

When I was done with my shopping I started my 99 C2 and off I went, shifted into first.....zoom....depress clutch to shift into second.... the clutch did not come back up? At first I thought it came back up 1/2 way but I depressed the clutch again and it sticks to the floor.

I stopped my 911 and pulled the clutch up by hand but when I pushed it again it stuck again, I repeated this several times in hopes that something would catch and I could limp home. I ended up pushing the car into a parking spot and going into the store to purchase a flash light so I could see better.

The light did help reveal a good size puddle of fluid under the driver's side door just in ahead of the rear tire. It looked to be brake/clutch fluid. I also checked the front reservoir and it was slightly low (near the min line). So I suspect this may have something to do with my problem?

I had my 911 flatbeded back to my home garage but have not gone any further yet. My plan is to jack up the car and remove the underbody plastic panels tomorrow and check for leaks. If anyone has any recommendations on things to look for please let me know.

In the interest of full disclosure.....

I changed the plugs/filters Monday afternoon but I doubt there is any relationship.

The car is approaching 40K miles.

I have only owned the car a few weeks and do have a warranty from the non-Porsche dealer I purchased from but I am not sure I want them working on the car.

I would not guess the clutch itself is gone but I could be wrong.

Believe it or not, I have an appointment for an inspection at Auto Edge in St. Paul tomorrow afternoon. I guess I will have to reschedule...

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Chris.

Hello,

I have a couple of annoying noises while driving my MY99 C2.

1: The first is a noise that seems to be originating somewhere on the passenger side. The noise is non-existent or very quiet at speeds below 35mph. Above that speed the noise sounds mostly like a rattle and is fairly continuous (what the heck did I just say?). It almost sounds like a cable bouncing or vibrating against the rocker panel under the door and resonating up through the cavity just behind the door.

I have removed the right side (passenger side) speaker cover and speaker and I am pretty certain the noise resonates from that opening. If I stuff a towel in the speaker cavity the noise is muffled. I can not fully determine if the noise is coming from the front or rear but I would say 80% likely it is the front. I do not see anything in the cavity below the rear speaker.

I think if I could access the passenger side (right) rocker panel (area beneath the door) I might be able to determine if something in there is rattling. At the minimum that would allow me to eliminate that as a possible cause of the noise.

My questions:

1A: How does one access the cavity beneath the passenger side (right) door?

1B: Is there a cable or some wiring in that area that could possible be vibrating causing a rattle?

1C: Any other areas I should check for this type of noise?

2: the second noise is from the drivers seat and is more of a clunk when stopping, accelerating or going over a large bump. It seems to happen during weight transfer and the seat may be moving. I will check/tighten the seat bolts to see if that fixes the issue but also wanted to see if there were other areas to check?

Thanks in advance

Chris Taylor

MY99 C2

Rochester, MN