thewraith

The car is still making the sound and it is caused by the intake air being sucked through the TB faster than the butterfly is opening causing the "bark." This became significantly louder right after the cleaning.

I wonder if the cleaner I used is causing the butterfly to stick slightly causing slower movement, or it I pushed open too far or ???.

I am considering trying some lubricant; such as silicone spray or WD-40. Does anyone see any problem with spraying a lubricant in and around the contact points of the TB and butterfly? (I would remove it first).

One of my neighbors also has an '02 so I suppose I could try swapping the TB assemblies between the two cars and see if his makes the sound and mine doesn't after the swap. If that turns out to be the case I guess I will have to either live with it or buy a replacment TB.

Cheers

I see no problems with this. I wouldn't even remove it- just stuff some paper towels in there before spraying.

Did you take the airbox out?

I just went thru this DIY and got the part about removing the alternator. I have it loose, but it only swings up (clockwise) a short way before hitting the underside of the intake mainifold. I removed all the other brackets, lines, connectors, etc. that are in the way, but there's no way it will clear the bracket to slide out. Any ideas? Thanks.

I can't speak for him but I'm pretty sure you have to remove the airbox to remove all the other things he mentioned above. Cs Jeff- I have now done this one two cars and had to strongarm it out both times.

The CEL codes are 1123 and 1125, looks like a bad maf sensor. Waiting for it to come in, hope this is the cause. I DID break the two hard plastic lines that go to a sensor right above the alternator (evap?). Can anyone tell me what these are for? I band-aid solutioned them by running hose from one broken piece to another in hope that it would fix my issue.

thanks again

meek

When driving my car- it pulls strong all the way till about 5k rpms. At that point there is a noticeable reduction in power. I do have cel on for running lean in a cylinder (maf issue after k&n install).

Does the engine hold back timing/fuel w/cel on?

Depend on it, YES..!!

I am waiting on a replacement maf sensor right now.

Toss the K&N first, otherwise you will be wasting money on the new MAF/IAT.

I also have a question about diagnosing a bad maf:

For most cars if you start the car with the MAf/IAT disconnected you will get a CEL but the idle will be okay. Idle or constant speed cruising does not rely on the MAF/IAT functionality, only the upstream A/F mixture control oxygen sensor(s).

On the other hand disconnect the MAF/IAT(***) with the engine idling, get a CEL, and the engine will either die or idle poorly.

For many this is a simple way to temporarily disable PSM(VSC)/TC. When there is a CEL many vehicles disable these functions.

When my maf is installed and hooked up, the car holds idle fine (maybe a 200rpm fluctuation). However when I remove the connection for the maf- the car will not idle properly. Is my MAF still bad or should I see this as a sign there is another issue?

thanks!

meek

Ahhh crap, search is my friend!

When driving my car- it pulls strong all the way till about 5k rpms. At that point there is a noticeable reduction in power. I do have cel on for running lean in a cylinder (maf issue after k&n install). Does the engine hold back timing/fuel w/cel on? I am waiting on a replacement maf sensor right now. I also have a question about diagnosing a bad maf:

When my maf is installed and hooked up, the car holds idle fine (maybe a 200rpm fluctuation). However when I remove the connection for the maf- the car will not idle properly. Is my MAF still bad or should I see this as a sign there is another issue?

thanks!

meek

Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

I wish I had read your post before I attempted the DIY!! You were absolutely right. I broke the vertical coolant tube holder AND the hard plastic lines that go to the fuel tank.

In the end I found some other plastic tube to re-connect the broken fuel vent lines. I also bought a new coolant tube holder, luckily they had it in stock at the dealership.

The DIY was not as easy as I hoped, but I still got through it despite all the heart-attack-inducing moments when those plastic parts broke in my hands. I had hoped that the alternator did not have to be removed, but found that the upper bracket was blocking the access to one of the bolts holding the oil filler tube that I was going to replace.

I'm quite concerned about the plastic parts in the engine bay. They seem to be less resilient at their age compared to those on BMW's that I have worked on before and am more familiar with. That being said, the rubber hoses from porsche are far superior to anything I've seen. Very good quality from factory.

I have no idea how I would go about it if I wanted to replace those fuel vent lines. Is it even DIY-able? I hope someone can comment on this job, as I'd like to change them, they are far too brittle to be dependable at the moment.

Some advice on this job:

1) Make sure you have a second car around, you may need to buy parts you break along the way.

2) Have a 8mm (5/16") male-male barb hose connector handy and two hose clamps handy in case you break the hose holder (even if it is a new one!)

3) Some vacuum hose in case you break the fuel vent lines. They break at anytime, at any place, with little force. Scary.

For the vent lines- I just went and got some fuel line hose and tucked the hard lines inside of it. Note that this may not be a good fix but is working for now. I imagine you could get to the hard vent lines from underneath the car possibly??

The car should not overrun 1000 RPM, check if the throttle cable tension is not too hard, he needs a little "play".

Since you don't have a throttle cable, don't waste too much time looking for it. :P

It is normal to have a slightly higher idle when the car is first started from cold. It should only last a short while and then drop back to normal.

My car DOES have a throttle cable- it's attached to the throttle body that I removed when I did the oil filler tub fix. What a HUGE HEADACHE.

Then you are not talking about a 1999 C4 as they do not have a cable. What kind of car DO you own?

a 1999 c4 :)

The whole EGAS thing drove me nuts since I ordered one new maf sensor from ebay- it was the wrong one. Then went thru pelican- it was the wrong one. And finally took the old one out and took the part number- NOT EGAS :(

It is surely a C4 thou, according to both the title and the way all 4 wheels spin :)

And you are telling us that the throttle is controlled by a single cable from the pedal to the passenger side of the throttlebody? If that is the case, there is something suspicious about your engine. Are you the orginal owner and was a different engine put in the car?

Yes that's what I have- no I'm not the original owner of this car. Hmmm.now you're making me wonder- where would I look to check for matching vins??

thanks

meek

The car should not overrun 1000 RPM, check if the throttle cable tension is not too hard, he needs a little "play".

Since you don't have a throttle cable, don't waste too much time looking for it. :P

It is normal to have a slightly higher idle when the car is first started from cold. It should only last a short while and then drop back to normal.

My car DOES have a throttle cable- it's attached to the throttle body that I removed when I did the oil filler tub fix. What a HUGE HEADACHE.

Then you are not talking about a 1999 C4 as they do not have a cable. What kind of car DO you own?

a 1999 c4 :)

The whole EGAS thing drove me nuts since I ordered one new maf sensor from ebay- it was the wrong one. Then went thru pelican- it was the wrong one. And finally took the old one out and took the part number- NOT EGAS :(

It is surely a C4 thou, according to both the title and the way all 4 wheels spin :)

The car should not overrun 1000 RPM, check if the throttle cable tension is not too hard, he needs a little "play".

Since you don't have a throttle cable, don't waste too much time looking for it. :P

It is normal to have a slightly higher idle when the car is first started from cold. It should only last a short while and then drop back to normal.

My car DOES have a throttle cable- it's attached to the throttle body that I removed when I did the oil filler tub fix. What a HUGE HEADACHE.

Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

I ended up buying the new tube. Note that on a 1999 c4, the replacement of this little piece of garbage mystery of engineering was PURE HELL. I build engines and turbo applications and have been doing so for over 10 years now- this was hell to do and I would wholeheartedly say take it to a workshop to get it done.

Please remember that the easy fix for a broken filler tube is simply reconnecting it with epoxy. Just clean it up, apply the glue and you are good to go.

Is this the right stuff?

Linky

Tried the epoxy thing 4 times and gave up on it. It simply kept coming back apart :(

Hi all,

I was trying to remove my alternator so I can do the oil filler tube replacement. The DIY here called it a "simple" job, that is NOT true. On the c4 I have, after removing the two alternator bolts- trying to move the alternator clockwise is not possible since there is a bunch of stuff right above the alternator. Does anyone have a DIY for this job? I think I have gotten myself into a bad spot w/this...

thank you in advance

meek

I performed this service and now I have a "noise" when I quickly blip the throttle at idle. The noise is best described as a "pop" or "cough" and was not there before the cleaning and is also not there if I rev it smoothly rather than a quick blip, and is also not noticable when driving normally. Only heard when quickly blipping.

Does anyone have any thoughts? Is it possible the butterfly is sticking? Is there a lubricant that should be applied to the butterfly?

Suggestions please.

Thx

Maybe way too late but sounds like a loose or not entirely closing butterfly valve. I've seen people bend the valve too far back sometimes when cleaning it.

Hi all,

As far as everything else is concerned my 99 c4 is fine. However sometimes when starting the car- it revs very high right on startup then comes back down. Is this normal? I've never seen it in other cars.

Press the snowflake button (when the car is on).

Thank you my friend! I will try it this afternoon and report back. So this should disable the temp control from automatically turning on when I turn my car on from now on?

Hi all,

When I turn my car on- it automatically turns the a/c on and sets it to 69 degrees. How can I disable this from happening and make it so the temp control is only activated when I manually turn it on?

thanks in advance

meek

belt dressing can keep the sqealing noise away,,,

Very bad band aid solution.

If they just tip over then they either aren't right for that particular car....or who knows. You sound like you've fiddled around with cars before, so it's not like you don't know how to install one....and I certainly don't want to insult your intelligence. They're rather easy to install so if they're tipping over, they may be too short to reach under the center console far enough to secure them....

I checked all my trim pieces- they're fine and tight. Yeah, I've done a little here and there with cars ;)

http://www.pbase.com/itsmeek

I double checked and was told that these are the correct cupholders for my application. I put a heavy coffee cup in one of them the other day and it seemed fine until I made a turn and the coffee cup almost fell out. I suppose I can put double sided tape or velcro on the cupholder to hold it in. Thanks again!

Your statement "they move around"....makes me wonder.....are you of the impression that they'll be rigid? If so, your expectations are incorrect. They do not remain in there absolutely ridig....they do move around a bit and can be taken in and out in about 5 seconds.....I guess that's why Kim put in that nail head to help anchor the bottom and keep it a bit more rigid by having the point poke into the carpet. You can inadvertantly kick them or push them over if they're too far back and you move the seat forward with the electric seat control.

The guys/gals who are "purists" and claim that no Porsche should have a cup holder actually like them becasue you can remove them in a flash if someone comes up and you don't want them to know you have a ....OMG...a......a.......(cupholder)!!

Chuck,

Mine just tip over if i put a can/cup in them. I had this same style in my z06 with no issues. Maybe it's my trim pieces. I will take them apart and investigate.

Are you sure you are not just under the trim instead of the console it's self?

Trim piece is item 29 ( and held in place with clips)

They are under "4".

Thanks for the input everyone. Maybe it's just my trim thats the problem. I have tried mounting them like the pics of the beautiful interior above but I have no luck. They move around- I have tried bending them as much as I could and decreasing the bends. I don't know, maybe my trim is bad.

The engine going is my main concern as mentioned before. I can't find any companies that will warranty a porsche with over 30k miles on it.

I tried warranty direct with no luck. Does anyone have a recommended warranty company that won't gouge me and is dependable?

thanks

meek

Disagree completely...I have 2 of them and they work great on my car!

Wross do you have a pic of where you installed them? Weird request to expect you to just have them but worth asking..