stef

Mine does this, too. I figured it was a normal side-effect of the stability module.

It only happens at very low speeds, although that's usually when I'm turning sharper anyway.

Here is a good description (or solution, in the case of go-carts) of the Ackerman Effect. Note the spindle angle, where the wheels connect to the tie rod.

Also remember that you need to drive it a little bit every couple weeks even when it's stored. Apparently, seals start to deteriorate from misuse and brakes can mess up the rotors

This is not mentioned in your Owner's Manual.

Anecdotal evidence withstanding, I read it in the owner's manual about the brakes. This is not in the section about storage.

Seals on AC need to be exercised, even in the winter. This is fairly well-known, common knowledge, and that part was my editorial.

I'll see if I can find it, and give you a page reference.

Here it is, page 58 of my owner's manual (retyped, so ignore typos)

Vehicles without Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake (PCCB)

Even though the brake discs consist of alloyed grey cast iron, they will unavoidably start to corrode if your car is parked for an extended period. The brakes will tend to "rub" as a result. The nature, extent and effects of corrosion depend on the amount of time the vehicle was parked, whether granular or liquid road salt was spread and whether grease-dissolving agents were used in car washes.

So, I respectfully reaffirm my statement. Parking for extended periods can indeed affect the rotors, and you have a reference from the owner's manual. I can provide references on AC seal maintenance if you like, too, but not from the owner's manual. I would also block the wheels and not use the parking brake, to help avoid this issue. However, I've changed enough brakes to know that brakes often do touch the rotors, if only a tiny bit, because there's no spring to push the calipers apart. You can hear them brushing the rotor, even though it's not pressing on it hard.

How do you route the wire around the door? Do you just open the window a crack and slide your wires through there?

Thanks

Generally out the bottom of the passenger door.

Mike Focke has some more info on batteries, and a lot of info on 986s. Not much info on 987s, though, plus I don't always agree with his assessment on things (such as aftermarket air filters, e.g.).

I know the 986 had a tiny cutout at the bottom of the passenger door seal, so you could run a cord out the door without crimping anything. I haven't checked the 987, but I bet there's a cutout for this... and if there isn't, I doubt there'd be an issue anyway.

(if you come back to read this...)

You still might have an alarm zone open. Normally, the alarm doesn't beep when you set it unless a door, trunk, glovebox, or center console is open. There are mods you can get to "beep" it, but not many people have that.

Same thing just happened to me, but fortunately it's on the passenger side and not even in the direct FOV. :(

I drive my 2006 daily, and the dealer just replaced my battery.

Just under 3 years is pretty **** short for a modern battery. Most batteries you'd buy would last 5+ years.

Also remember that you need to drive it a little bit every couple weeks even when it's stored. Apparently, seals start to deteriorate from misuse and brakes can mess up the rotors, not to mention battery drain. It should be on a trickle charge.

It's $145 which isn't too bad I suppose. I do miss not having rear speakers esp with the top down, although it seems it'd be lacking without also adding a good amp.

There's almost certainly no dealer programming required, and I'm pretty sure there's no fiber needed, either (but they advertise that it works with MOST). I could be wrong, but stereos are pretty straightforward. The real question is if it screws up the speaker impedance from the head unit.

That's BS, as you well know.

Does driving your car to canada invalidate the warranty? Does snow invalidate it?

My advice is to not let up the pressure to replace it under warranty.

I have fairly long hair, and found the windstop makes a big difference. The plastic factory one does wobble a bit, though, and sometimes causes a distraction in the r-v mirror.

Where do you get a glass version? I'd love to have a drop-in replacement for that.

Bah, sorry man...

What kind of animal, anyway?

btw, I had been worrying about the idea of crash data recorders recording erroneous data and being used against you. Imagine that you're driving 55 in a 50mph zone and hit some kid that runs into the street. Now imagine if the CDR recorded you driving 62mph (10% + 4kph [stupid km]). This could make a big difference between minor speeding versus calling it "reckless" driving in a lawsuit, all due to a faulty speedo and stupid kid.

After doing some checking, I was relieved to discover that Porsche doesn't use crash data recorders, but a surprising number of companies are using them today.

This is crazy... when closing the top, the right side doesn't close in the channel properly.

Took it in, they adjusted the tensioners... fell out of channel a week later.

Took it in, they replaced the tensioners (one had broken)... still doing it again a week later.

I'm getting a bit annoyed... is there an easy way to adjust this myself? I'm tired of losing my car for 2 days while the dealer dinks with it.

This thread has info on the elastic/nylon tensioners, and I suspect they just need adjustment.

The actual link is http://www.12v-electronics.com/catalog/cha...202-p-4977.html

Nice pic, btw... I like how you hid your reflection with the front tire, although I don't know if that was intentional.

I am also thinking about having the white one (#1) CPO'd...anybody know how much this will cost?

CPO = certified porsche something?

The dealer won't do it, or if they do it'll mark it up a lot. They have to fix the paint and any dings to certify it (at least according to my dealer). I was looking at a similar cayman S with a few dings that the dealer wouldn't certify.

I'll note that I did see a difference between the S and the base, but it's really not that much. Base acceleration is a little slower if you're dragging, but I was able to keep up with an M5 up to 70mph (at which point I had to turn... besides, that was fast enough on city streets). I saw a bigger difference in the structural "feel" of the cayman than the acceleration. Base will go fast enough to get you thrown in jail, and still have a ton of pedal left.

If you can find a base with a 6-speed and good options, you could save yourself a lot of money over the S. Get a PMI and check overrevs, though. Low level ones are no issue, but anything in the higher ranges could be bad.

The biggest thing I miss is the bose system. The base stereo in the 987 is "good", but not good enough for my tastes. The bose system is way better, judging from all the time I spent driving a 986 a couple years ago.

That is all my opinion, of course.... I'd love to have the S model, but I also love the extra $5-10k I have by not taking it.

I never knew there was more than 1 rev limiter. How could a 987 rev to 10 grand from a missed down shift??? Wouldn't the regular rev limiter kick in?

donlycan

The rev limited doesn't actually "limit" the revolutions. It cuts power when accelerating past the limit.

If you downshift, instead of the engine applying power to turn the wheels, the wheels are applying power (from forward inertia) to the engine. If you're going 80 and downshift from 5th to 4th, the revs will go from about 3000 to about 4000. But if you "miss a downshift" and instead hit 2nd gear at 80mph, you'll spin the engine around 8000 rpm (and probably crap your pants from the engine screaming its disgust at your driving skill).

So the question about how an engine could be protected from overrev on downshift comes up occasionally. It got me to thinking how it might be done.

But with a manual there is no computer control. Any shift that the driver physically makes is acted upon AS SOON AS THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS RELEASED. So why not have the computer not allow that release if it calculates resulting RPM would be too high? The clutch is hydraulic. Some simple computer controlled valving could probably be engineered to override the clutch release by the driver.

Do I think that any manufacturer will ever do this? No. The direction is towards PDK type trannies. There is no upside for the manufacturer to make an overrev-proof manual transmission motor. But it still is an interesting thought.

Regards,

Alan

The real question isn't if it's possible, but the dangers involved in doing that.

Example: I push in the clutch in 5th gear at 90 mph, intending to downshift to 4th but hit 2nd instead. That would make the revs 9000 rpm... so what does the car do? Hold in the clutch? Or does it prevent me from shifting into 2nd?

If it holds in the clutch, I'm coasting which is bad in itself. But what happens when I slow down to 70 (being under the redline in 2nd) ... does it suddenly release the clutch? Ouch!

If it prevents downshifting into 2nd, people will simply become dependent on it as a safety... but like the dangers of relying on the safety on a gun to prevent firing, you're depending on a safety mechanism for your life instead of using proper driving to put it into the correct gear. It also prevents downshifting as you're slowing down without releasing the clutch before the right time, such as approaching a turn really fast while braking.

I wonder if they can come up with a good way to prevent it. A simple alarm might even work with some feedback in the shift lever. Imagine if when I downshifted the lever started vibrating the moment it began moving into 2nd, and the dashboard alarm beeped. I could still jam it and drop the clutch causing a level 4 overrev, but more likely I'd notice something was wrong really fast and not dump the clutch.

Grats!

I'd love to toss a stebel nautilus into my car.

If you try to set the alarm and a door is open, it normally barely pulses the horn. How's it sound with the stebel?

Roof issues are covered under factory warranty. Take it back.

Be prepared to wait over a day for your car back, though.

I haven't seen any such beast, but is there a way to hobble a 2006 987? Something like a speed limiter to 20 mph and disabled trunk locks?

I've never had an issue with a valet, but then again, I've never had a car like this before. This is more of an academic question.

edit: added year

Took me a bit to figure out those plastic gizmos, but it worked the first time.

Without pictures and in such cramped quarters, I had to kind of guess at how they worked.

Picture 4 metal clips that lock the radio when it's slid into place. If you could push all 4 in simultaneously, the radio would slide back out. The plastic gizmos hold them in while you work on others... just push in the clip all the way, and rotate the plastic gizmo to hold the clip in that position. If you can't do it with the gizmos, you might want to get another set of hands to help you push them all in so that you can remove the radio.

I couldn't actually get a driver into the upper left gizmo, so I just pushed that one in by hand and the radio came right out.

Installation of the KOS-A200 was straightforward until I needed power. It was easy enough to get unswitched power by tapping off the 12vdc outlet from that carpeted piece removed in the passenger side, but it also needs switched power. I found it's basically impossible to find a switched power cable for the radio itself being on/off. Radio stays on until key is removed, so that's not quite switched power, at least not switched by the ignition. I ended up running a wire to the fuse box and tapping into an unused switched fuse receptacle.

Anyways, I ran the cables along the console and put the KOS-A200 behind the driver seat. It's a sizable unit, and I didn't want to struggle with trying to mount it behind the radio. The driver seat is closer to the engine than I wanted, but there isn't any noise.

The one thing that annoys me with basically all FM modulators, is they are STILL too quiet compared to the other stations ... so there's a big difference if you switch stations.

So I purchased a wired FM modulator so that I can get an aux input. I needed to get to the back of it to rewire the antenna lead to pass through the FM modulator.

There are several how-tos with pictures out there for radio removal on a 987. I viewed them, understood them, got the needed torx and wrenches and went to work.

Alan or Nick, I'm going to be adding a modulator very shortly (in fact, waiting for my Kenwood KOS-A200 to be delivered today).

I've done several searches and only found a non-existent pdf, although I've found a few good text descriptions. Could you link some of those how-tos that have pictures? Thanks.

This was bizarre... I did a refresh (just today) on densionusa.com's site, and got this:

I wonder what the scoop is.